The Latest Korean Beauty Trend -- "Cloudless Skin"
韩国最新的美容趋向 - “无云肌”
BY KALEIGH FASANELLA
当我第一次听说韩国皮肤护理的“新”趋势，被称为“无云肌”时，我几乎翻了个白眼。另一个？ ......这怎么可能有所不同？我问自己。尽管如此，我还是与一些韩国皮肤护理专家联系，以了解更多关于“无云皮肤”的信息，更重要的是，它与... 其他韩国皮肤护理趋势的比较。我一无所知，我有点意外。
Alicia Yoon，Peach＆Lily 的创始人兼策展人......向我解释......“无云肌”指的是一种内在健康的光芒。 “想想一位尚未有任何皮肤损坏的小孩 - 皮肤充满生机，充满活力，而且看起来几乎透明，”她说。
另一方面，根据 Yoon 的说法，随着年龄的增长，经历日常的磨损，这是不可避免的（特别是如果你住在一个大城市），你会看到随着时间的推移发生的潜在破坏和黑点，在皮肤表面下方。 “这样持续暴露于污染，紫外线和压力，”......之后，我们知道就会有极大地影响我们皮肤的整体健康和活力的可能性。
那么，如何才能真正实现已经存在数十年的韩国护肤理想呢？通过健康的生活习惯以及一流的护肤品。营养学家 Keri Gans 建议每日服用一片深色绿叶蔬菜（含有富含皮肤的维生素C）和100％全谷物，而不是依赖过度加工的食物添加糖。同样，Yoo 建议坚持低血糖食物，如蔬菜，甘薯和燕麦片，而不是高血糖食物，如大米和白面包，它们会刺激胰岛素并最终分解胶原蛋白，引发荷尔蒙波动，炎症，这两者都会促进痤疮的形成。
Yoo 也非常重视睡眠和压力，这两者都会影响最佳的皮肤健康。总部位于纽约的皮肤科医生和“智慧皮肤病理学”的创始人 Sejal Shah 解释说，细胞更新和DNA修复在夜间最高，而在白天，皮肤更处于“保护模式”。
“有趣的是，皮肤的血液流动和皮肤的渗透性在夜间更高，” Shah 说，“所以睡眠是修复和更新皮肤的时候。”更重要的是：睡眠和压力往往是相辅相成的，因为过晚的睡觉和过多的压力会使得晚上休息变得更加困难，缺乏适当的闭眼可能会导致更多的焦虑。 Shah 建议......每晚七到九个小时的睡眠时间，特别是那些有皮肤病的人，因为她说睡眠不足会增加炎症，并可能加剧这个问题。
......“任何...... 护肤方案的基本要素就是良好的防晒保护剂，”Shah 说。
最后，我确信我们都听过这一百万次。记住并且坚持所归结的结论。 “经常更换产品会让我们的皮肤变得不知所措，从而导致过度敏感和发炎的皮肤，”Yoo 解释道。 “了解你的皮肤需要的是第一件事，采用尊重你的皮肤的产品是第二，但真正让你成为赢家的是持久，因为你真的需要给你的皮肤更多的时间来改变并回到它的健康状态。
“无云肌不是一种奖励，我们称之为一种生活方式 - 以清晰，容光焕发的皮肤为最终目标。”
When I first heard about the "new" trend in Korean skin care, dubbed "cloudless skin," I almost rolled my eyes. Another one? ... How could this be any different?, I asked myself. Nevertheless, I reached out to a few Korean skin-care experts to learn more about "cloudless skin," and more importantly, how it compares to ... [other Korean skin care] trends. Little did I know, I was in for a bit of a surprise.
... Put simply, cloudless skin refers to a completely clear, flawless complexion. See where the "cloudless" descriptor came into play? But, the difference between it and the former fads, if you will, is that it's much more connected to the "healthy aura" that one exudes from the inside out, as well as someone's emotional state.
Alicia Yoon, the founder and curator of Peach & Lily ..., explaining to me ... that "cloudless skin" refers to an inner, healthy radiance. "Think of a young child who has yet to see skin damaged by the elements — skin is so full of life, vibrancy, and seems almost transparent," she says.
On the flip side, according to Yoon, as we get older and go through the daily wear and tear that's inevitable (especially if you live in a big city), you'll see the underlying damage and dark spots that have sprouted over time, below the surface of the skin. "[It's] the constant exposure to pollution, UV rays, and stress," ... the latter, we know has the potential to greatly impact the overall health and vitality of our skin.
So, how can one actually attain the Korean skin-care ideal that's been around for decades? Through a mix of healthy living habits as well as top-notch skin-care products. Nutritionist Keri Gans recommends getting your daily dose of dark, leafy greens (which are chock-full of skin-loving vitamin C) and 100 percent whole grains, rather than relying on overly processed meals with added sugars. Similarly, Yoo advises sticking to a diet with low-glycemic foods like vegetables, sweet potatoes, and oatmeal, rather than high-glycemic foods, like white rice and bread, which spike up insulin and eventually break down the collagen and trigger hormonal fluctuation and inflammation, both of which encourage the formation of acne.
Yoo also puts a huge emphasis on sleep and stress, both of which can impact optimal skin health. New York City-based dermatologist and founder of Smarter Skin Dermatology Sejal Shah explains that cell turnover and DNA repair are highest at night, whereas during the day the skin is in more of a "protective mode."
"Interestingly, blood flow to the skin and the skin's permeability are higher at night," says Shah, "so sleep is a time for repairing and renewing your skin." What's more: Sleep and stress tend to go hand in hand, as too much of the latter can make it harder to get a good night's rest, and lack of proper shut-eye can lead to even more anxiety. Shah advises ... seven to nine hours per night, especially for those with existing skin conditions, as she says not enough sleep increases inflammation and can potentially exacerbate the issue.
"We all know stressed-out skin looks like a cloud, but more than that, the stress hormone cortisol [makes] skin reactive and makes the skin barrier ... vulnerable," she explains. "Managing stress is the most crucial tip that's needed in modern life, and a good night's sleep helps your skin to rejuvenate in optimal condition."
... "The cornerstone of any ...[skin care] regimen is good sun protection," says Shah.
... What else can you do? It really, truly, all comes back to the basic pillars of skin care: proper cleansing and exfoliation, protecting skin with SPF (and remembering to re-apply), as well as using deeply hydrating products that help seal in moisture, which leaves less room for the skin to react to daily stressors.
Finally, I'm certain we've all heard this a million times. It is integral to remember that consistency is key. "Changing products too often is making our skin so confused, which leads to sensitized and inflamed skin," explains Yoo. "Knowing what your skin needs is the first thing, and adopting the products that respect your skin is the second, but what really makes you the winner is consistency, as you really need to give more time for your skin to transform and get back to its healthy state."
The reward? Cloudless skin, which we're referring to as a lifestyle — with clear, radiant skin as the ultimate goal.
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