Pasta with Anchovies

Breadcrumbs (make ahead):

4 slices bread, cut into 3/4 inch pieces (see note)

1 tablespoon (15ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Pasta:

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced sliced

10 to 12 anchovy fillets

1/4 cup tomato paste

12 ounces bucatini or other long dried pasta

1/2 cup (60g) toasted breadcrumbs, divided

Instructions

For the Toasted Breadcrumbs: If using fresh or lightly stale bread, adjust oven rack to middle position, and preheat oven to 325°F. (If using fully stale and dried bread, skip baking step.) Arrange bread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet, and bake until completely dried, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven, and allow to cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes. Transfer bread to food processor bowl (set aside but don't clean rimmed baking sheet), and pulse until reduced to small crumbs, do not to over-process into a fine powder, 8 to 10 pulses.

Combine breadcrumbs and 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil in a large skillet, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring and tossing occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Season lightly with salt. Transfer toasted breadcrumbs to reserved rimmed baking sheet, spread into an even layer, and set aside to cool to room temperature. Once cool, set aside 1/2 cup toasted breadcrumbs for the pasta, and transfer remaining crumbs to an airtight container for future use; the extra breadcrumbs can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

For the Pasta: Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat, and season very lightly with salt; use a ratio of 1 teaspoon of Diamond Crystal kosher salt per 1 gallon of water.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add anchovies and cook, stirring and breaking up anchovies occasionally with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, until anchovies have dissolved, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste, stir to combine with anchovy mixture, and continue to cook until mixture turns dark brick red and is very dry, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Transfer 1 cup boiling water from pot to skillet to loosen tomato-anchovy mixture, and stir until it becomes homogenous and saucy. Reduce heat on skillet to lowest possible setting, to just keep sauce warm; if your burner can only be reduced to a simmer, then turn heat off entirely.

Cook pasta in the pot of boiling water until just softened on the exterior, but well shy of al dente, and still uncooked in the center (2 to 3 minutes less than the package directs). Using tongs, transfer pasta to sauce, along with 1/2 cup pasta cooking water.

Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce coats noodles and just pools around the edges of the pan, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta cooking water in 1/4 cup increments as needed. Add half of the breadcrumbs (1/4 cup) and toss to combine. Pasta should be well-coated but not swimming in sauce (this dish is meant to have a slightly drier consistency than typical sauced pastas). Adjust sauce consistency as needed with more pasta water if it seems too dry, or an additional small handful of breadcrumbs if it seems too loose. Remove from heat, divide pasta between individual serving bowls, sprinkle with remaining breadcrumbs, and serve right away.

Urban Cowgill Sept 2020