Original Day Family Cookbook
(Athough some may have been stolen from Heloise and others)
Pre-Wash Formula:
Simply fill a spray bottle with a solution of one-third household ammonia, one- third liquid diswashing detergent and one-third water. Shake well.
Apply to soiled collars, cuffs or other areas; put the garment in the washer with the rest of the laundry. ALWAYS launder the item immediately after spraying with the formula in case the fabric is sensitive to ammonia.
A word of caution - NEVER add bleach to the solution, as a poisonous gas would be created.
Grease stains in polyester? Wet the spot and rub with a bar of body soap, then wash as usual.
Clogged iron?
Pour full-strength vinegar (cheapest kind) into the iron and let it steam for about five min.
Unplug the iron and let it stand a while longer, then pour out the vinegar.
Thoroughly rinse out the iron with clean water.
Always empty out tap water after ironing.
Stain-Removing Formula for white washables made of l00% or white synthetics, provided they do not specify "no bleach:"
To one gallon of HOT water, add one cup of automatic dishwasher detergent and one-fourth cup liquid chlorine bleach.
Mix well.
Use a large enamel, plastic or stainless steel container for this solution.
DO NOT use an aluminum pot as it will cause the pan to darken and turn black.
Soak the stained garments approximately 30 min. Wash as usual.
Soak whites made of l00% synthetic material, such as nylon, polyester, or acrylic, in warm water instead of hot to avoid setting wrinkles. Mix the solution as above, but let the water cool to lukewarm before using. This formula not only removes stains from baby clothes and T-shirts, but is also good to whiten nylon uniforms, etc.
Bleaching Colored Fabrics
If prewash sprays etc. don't work, test to see if the fabric is color- safe by mixing a solution of approximately one teaspoon bleach in a half cup of water.
Put just a drop of mixture on a hidden spot of garment.
Let stand for a minute, then blot dry.
Check for any color change. If none, the fabric is bleachable.
If the garment is non-wearable, you might as well bleach it - but do read the label carefully and use the proper proportions, maybe starting with a weak solution of bleach and soapy water.
Catch lint - put a yard of nylon net in clothes dryer.
Fabric Softener: Instead of putting fabric softener in rinse water, mix a capful of softener with one quarter of water - dip a washcloth in this solution and squeeze out the water, leaving the cloth damp but not dripping - put the cloth in the dryer along with a load of clothes1 The water softener solution will do quite a few loads of drying.
Blood stains on white (test before using on colored fabrics) - pour some hydrogen peroxide through the stain, then when it stops foaming, rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
Hand-Washing Wool Sweaters:
Use cold water with a hand-washable detergent, swishing the sweater gently.
Rinse several times, being careful not to pull the wool too much as it will stretch out of shape when wet if handled roughly.
In final rinse, add ¼ cup of white vinegar, then spin sweater in washing machine on spin dry cycle for a few seconds.
Then lay sweater on a heavy bath towel and fold the towel over into thirds.
To remove as much excess water as possible, walk over the whole bundle with your slippers, pressing hard.
Lay it out to finish drying, blocking it to help retain its shape.
Stubborn stains - such as tar, ballpoint ink, stamp pad ink, grass stains, grease spots - you might try a cream hand cleaner, such as the kind mechanics use - work into the stain, then wash as usual.
Yelllow Age Spots on Linen: If they are washable, soak in buttermilk overnight, or longer if need be. Just change the milk when it becomes necessary. Then wash as usual, using a bluing or a commercial whitener
Dark Clothes To help keep dark clothes sparking dark, add a cup of vinegar to the last rinse water. OR try adding ¼ cup of ammonia with your detergent when washing.
Washing Silk Blouses even with "dry clean only" labels:
Use a cold water wash, gently swish blouse in the solution for a few min. until clean (no scrubbing or wringing, please).
Gently squeeze out the water, lightly roll in a towel, then hang to dry in a dark place (silk is sensitive to light).
Once dry, press them inside out with a warm iron and a pressing cloth.
If blouse is heavily stained, or has a problem stain, I'd suggest professional cleaning. (Perspiration is another enemy of silk.)
Window Washing:
Instead of commercial cleaners, try corn starch! I know it sounds crazy, but it actually works, and is inexpensive to use.
Just dissolve a couple of tablespoons, more or less, in a quart of hot water. OR if that doesn't do the job to suit you, add ½ cup ammonia and ½ cup white distilled vinegar as well as 2 tablespoons of corn starch to a gallon of warm water.
Plain old household vinegar or ammonia in warm water is an old time favorite.
Crumpled newspapers are better than paper toweling for cleaning windows.HOWEVER, before washing any window I recommend first wiping it off with an old rag or piece of towel.
Another good home brew for windows: a half-cup of sudsy ammonia, a pint of common 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and enough water to make a gallon in all. Also good to clean appliances.
Homemade Multipurpose Cleaner for tile, linoleum floors, formica counter-tops, appliances, etc.:
¼ cup baking soda
l cup household ammonia
½ cup white vinegar
l gallon warm water
The hazard though is that ammonia is poisonous,so keep mixture away from children and arrange good ventilation. Wearing gloves too is advisable, as it is a heavy-duty cleaner and rough on hands.
Homemade Cleaner for Painted Walls: Dissolve 2 ounces borax and l teaspoon of ammonia in 2 quarts of water. Scrub a really dirty wall from the bottom up.
Homemade Furniture Polish for wood furniture:
Mix together one-third cup each of boiled linseed oil (which you buy at a paint store and DON'T try boiling your own!), turpentine and vinegar.
To use, moisten a soft cloth with the mixture,apply, then go over the area with a dry cloth.
Wood Cleaner for paneling, wooden cabinets, as well as cleaning wax, dirt and old polish from furniture - add one part vinegar to two parts water. Just dip a clean, soft cloth into the mixture and wring it out well. Rub with the grain of the wood, then polish with a dry cloth to bring out the luster.
Mildew on Bathroom Grout and Tile: Formby's Method is good.
Use Formby's Furniture Cleaner; scrub with cleaner and brush. Wipe away all cleaner after scrubbing, using cloth rags. This removes all body oils and soap film.
Remove mildew fungi by mixing l gallon tap water with l cup Spic and Span and i cup chlorine bleach. Suggest using rubber gloves. Scrub walls, using a small scrub brush in corners and hard-to-reach areas. Let set an hour. Scrub again with same mixture; wash off thoroughly with clear water. Let dry COMPLETELY.
Apply a light coat of PURE LEMON OIL FURNITURE TREATMENT (Formby's of course) to seal the area. Special attention to grout joints, corner, etc. Apply with a soft cloth, let dry overnight. Mildew worries are over! Formby says, and it is the best way I've found.
Now use lemon oil once a week on bath walls to prevent accumulation of body oils, soap and mildew formations
OR Heloise says, after walls are thoroughly clean, you can wax them with a good paste-type car wax, then buff with a dry cloth, to help ward off spots and mildew.
OR transparent silicone waterproofing applied to grout joints in ceramic tile walls will prevent formation of mildew.
CAUTION: Most powdered cleansers are too harsh, but Bon Ami is the best, in my mind, and is recommended by Corning. Baking Soda is the safest and also a good cleaner for ceramic and porcelain, and stainless steel and chrome. So keep a box in the kitchen and bathroom.
Dingy Bathtub - Try filling the tub with warm water and add about 2 cups of chlorine bleach and l cup powdered laundry detergent. Stir it around a bit and allow this to stand in the tub for a few hours. Drain the water and scrub gently with a wad of nylon net.
Homemade Bathtub Cleaning Compound to pour into any old plastic, flip-top bottle and set on a corner of your bathtub: ½ cup of electric dishwasher compound in a quart bottle and fill with hot water to dissolve. You will see a few granules in the bottom, but that doesn't hurt a thing. Brand makes no difference either.
Cleaning Tile Joints: Make a paste of kitchen cleanser and laundry detergent and apply to grout joints. Allow it to remain for half an hour, then scrub with a small brush. Rinse.
Discolored Porcelain Sink can be improved by applying a mixture of cream of tartar and hydrogen peroxide over the stain and add a drop or two of household ammonia. Allow it to remain for at least two hours.
Ring-Around-The-Toilet-Bowleproblem home-type remedy - pour two cups of household chlorine bleach - or plain old vinegar - into the bowl and let it remain overnight. The next morning, take a bowl brush and give the stains a few swipes and they should wash right off. If not, repeat the process.
Roaches- sprinkle a few bay leaves around in corners.
Roaches - mixture of 2 tablespoons flour; 1 teaspoon cocoa, and 4 teaspoons borax.
Roaches - for a moderate infestation, a 50-50 mixture of boric acid and sugar every night for about 10 days can be effective. Sprinkle on wiped-dry sink, drainboard, tub-shower, around pipes and behind baseboards (keep children and pets away).
For major problems, use commercial insecticides containing one of the following: 1% Baygon; 5% Diazinon; 5% Dursban.
ANTS: Wash countertops, cabinets and floors with equal parts of vinegar and water. Then try equal parts of BORAX (found in stores on the soap shelf) and SUGAR and place the mixture in any infested area.
Soapy water effective on most house plant pests.
JEWELRY CLEANER: For gold, not on pearls or any soft stone: Half ammonia and half water with a dash of liquid soap. Let jewelry soak in solution for a few min. and then take a soft toothbrush and clean around any etchings or stones. Rinse well and polish with soft cloth.