Serves 6 to 8
½ pound (225 g) shiitake mushrooms, rinsed and drained
½ pound (225 g) cremini (brown) mushrooms, rinsed and drained
1 pound (450 g) bok choy or baby Chinese cabbage, stem ends trimmed
½ pound (225 g) soba noodles
2½ tablespoons (32 mL) canola or extra-virgin olive oil
3½ cups (875 mL) garlic chives, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) lengths (if not available, use leeks cut lengthwise into linguine-width slices, then crosswise into 1-inch/2.5-cm pieces, with 3 tablespoons/50 mL chopped garlic)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried chili flakes, or to taste
5 tablespoons (75 mL) Chinese rice wine, or sake
5½ tablespoons (82 mL) light soy sauce, or to taste
Remove and discard stems from the shiitake mushrooms. Trim the cremini stem ends. Cut the mushroom caps into thin slices.
Cut the bok choy on the diagonal into 1/2-inch (12-mm) sections, separating the leafy parts from the stalk sections.
Bring 3 quarts (3 L) of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the soba noodles. Once the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat slightly and cook 31/2 minutes, until al dente. While noodles are cooking, place the stalk ends of the bok choy in a strainer and immerse into boiling pasta water for a scant 1 minute. Remove and drain. Repeat with the leafy parts, leaving immersed for about 30 seconds.
Remove and drain. Drain noodles in a colander and rinse under warm running water. Drain again.
Heat a large wok or a skillet until very hot. Add oil and heat until hot, about 10 seconds. Add garlic chives, or leeks and garlic, and dried chili flakes, and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add sliced mushrooms and stir-fry over medium heat. Add rice wine or sake, cover, and cook for 3 minutes, or until mushrooms are tender. Uncover and return the heat to high. Add bok choy, soy sauce and noodles, and toss lightly over high heat to heat through. Serve immediately.