My family celebrating my brother-in-law’s birthday at Detroit Pho & Crab, September 2, 2023. Photo by David Kim.
Last year’s thanksgiving dinner – the middle tray is the actual seafood boil discussed in the opening portion of my essay, primarily containing lobster and king crab, November 24, 2022. Photo by Charles Park.
By James Kim
For most families in America, the centerpiece of the Thanksgiving feast is a full-size, roasted turkey. It is a festive staple accompanied by other western classics such as casserole, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie. This norm is completely foreign to me. As a Korean family, our Thanksgiving cuisine consists of a rather wild combination of different Asian-fusion dishes, from sashimi to dim sum to kimchi. In lieu of an oil-fried turkey, we prepare a seafood boil, a colorful mix of all types of different crustaceans including lobster, mussels, clams, and crab, all boiled together in a flavorful broth. After eagerly suiting up with a plastic bib and a pair of disposable gloves, I always find myself digging through the aromatic hodgepodge to find my favorite bit of the bunch: lobster. The savory scent, the satisfying crack that comes from opening the bright red shell, the intense, umami flavor; it all comes together to provide an experience nothing short of heavenly.
For our family, lobster is a special treat. Likewise for many people around the world, lobster is a high-value food and has become synonymous with fine dining and special occasions. Case in point, Akelare, an upscale restaurant located in the highly affluent, coastal city of San Sebastian, Spain was recently awarded three Michelin stars, largely thanks to their expertly crafted signature dish, “roasted lobster and spiced balloon” (“Spain’s Akelare”).
My family’s most recent Thanksgiving feast, November 24, 2023, by James Kim.
With all the modern-day buzz around lobster, it comes as a shock that for most of human history, lobster was considered an abhorrent pest. This was most apparent in New England, where before the 1800s, lobster was viewed among the likes of rats and cockroaches. This parity stemmed from the crustaceans’ scavenger diet and – according to accounts from Plymouth pilgrims – “unbelievable abundance on shorelines” (Wallace). As a result, lobster was a food strictly served to the poor and institutionalized. Even then, laws prohibited feeding lobsters to prisoners more than once a week because it was deemed cruel and unusual to serve such revolting vermin as food (Wallace). These sentiments began to change with the introduction of industrialized fishing technology, especially after World War II, with the broad adoption of diesel engines leading to large, mechanized fisheries. Combined with the development of refrigeration and commercial transportation infrastructures, local and foreign markets exploded. By the 1990s, lobster stocks were declared overfished and major regulations were imposed to protect global fish markets (Spanier et al). This new scarcity skyrocketed the market for lobster and was met with a shift in cultural outlook on the dish. Over the course of centuries, lobster as a cuisine experienced an unthinkable transformation from “pest of the sea” to prestigious, culinary delight.
Two of my best friends depicted moments before obliterating a pot of lobster, August 14, 2023, by James Kim.
In statistics, a confounding variable spoils a claim’s validity when it overlaps with the claim’s suggested cause. At face value, society’s current ardor for lobster potentially confounds the purity behind my passion for lobster. Would I love lobster the same under America's cultural stigmas centuries ago, or would I follow that crowd’s disdain for it? Do I really love lobster for what it is, or is my love for lobster nothing more than a function of its overwhelming status and is thus undermined? Is my love for lobster shallow? The heart of my rebuttal to this sentiment lies in my belief that food is not made special by intrinsic means. The true value of food is not measured by how expensive it is, how difficult it is to obtain, what socioeconomic class it belongs to, or even what it tastes like. It will always boil down to the moments, the fond memories shared with valuable people. My love for lobster is grounded in quality time. At the end of the day, that Thanksgiving feast is not made special by the food on the table, but rather by the people surrounding that table. My love for lobster is, without question, a direct outcome of the love I have fostered for my friends and family. The emotional weight of my desire to cherish and protect these relationships takes logical precedence over my consideration of what society thinks. Therefore, I declare my allegiances to lobster, legitimate.
Works Cited
Kim, David. Birthday celebration. 2 Sept. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Kim, James. Best friends. 14 Aug. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Kim, James. Most recent Thanksgiving. 24 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Park, Charles. Last year’s Thanksgiving. 24 Nov. 2022. Author's personal collection.
Spanier, Ehud, et al. “A concise review of lobster utilization by worldwide human populations from prehistory to the modern era.” ICES Journal of Marine Science, vol. 72, no. suppl_1, 2015, pp. i7–i21, https://doi.org/10.1093/icesjms/fsv066. Accessed 29 Oct. 2023.
"Spain's Akelare gains three Michelin stars." Caterer & Hotelkeeper, 14 Dec. 2006, p. NA. Gale Business: Insights, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A156050143/GBIB?u=umuser&sid=bookmark-GBIB&xid=ea4208f9. Accessed 29 Oct. 2023.
Wallace, David Foster. “Consider the Lobster.” Gourmet Magazine, Aug. 2004, pp. 50–64, http://www.columbia.edu/~col8/lobsterarticle.pdf. Accessed 30 Oct. 2023.