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A Hummus Affair: Food Beyond Borders
by Danielle Stassa
In downtown Ann Arbor, Jerusalem Garden stands out as a phenomenal destination for Mediterranean cuisine, with a special emphasis on its creamy hummus. Located on East Liberty Street in Ann Arbor, Michigan, the restaurant is an easily recognizable spot. The restaurant's bright orange outdoor chairs on the patio, along with the stained glass display of the letters "JG" near the entrance, draw the attention of onlookers.
The green-colored menu is divided into two main sections: vegetarian and meat sandwiches. Their popular dishes include chicken shawarma, the Jerusalem burger, and falafel.
Ribhi Ramlawi, the founder of Jerusalem Garden, transitioned into the restaurant business in 1987 after working as a butcher, according to their website. He and his wife started by leasing a small space near the Ann Arbor District Library, where they began selling hummus, kabobs, and falafel sandwiches. Though Ramlawi passed away in 1993, three of his children continue to uphold their father’s legacy at Jerusalem Garden and continue to use their father’s original hummus recipe to this day ("About").
Jerusalem Garden Hummus, November 13, 2023, by Danielle Stassa
On my latest visit, I briskly walked across campus salivating as I contemplated ordering my favorite meal: a juicy chicken kabob sandwiched between crispy vegetables and a side of creamy hummus with perfectly warm pita bread. After a brief wait of approximately fifteen minutes, my meal was served on a generously portioned, white ceramic plate. The kabobs were stacked with grilled, succulent chicken, crunchy and sweet red peppers, and tangy onions; they were accompanied by ample portions of house rice, smooth and nutty hummus with a hint of garlic and soft pita bread. As always, the highlight of my meal was the savory hummus, traditionally prepared with chickpeas, garlic, and tahini, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with cayenne ("A Hundred Tons" 1:04 - 2:18). Each element on my plate paired perfectly with the creamy hummus, creating a flavorful combination.
In Arabic, the pronunciation of the word for chickpea is hummus, which is what gave the dish its original name. Chickpeas, the main ingredient of hummus, were likely domesticated approximately 7,000 years ago in Western Asia (Ariel 35). Due to the lack of Arabic cookbooks from the fourteenth century to the twentieth century, it is unclear when chickpeas were first pureed to make hummus (Ariel 35-36). The first written record of hummus “comes from a 13th-century cookbook from Cairo,” but the recipe did not contain “tahini or garlic”, resulting in questions about whether or not it was truly hummus (Martin).
Because of the dish’s extreme popularity and uncertainty of origin, countries argue who truly invented hummus. In 2008, the Association of Lebanese Industrialists unsuccessfully attempted to trademark hummus and have exclusive rights to selling products named “hummus” (Ariel 35-36). Their perspective is that not only did the Israelis steal their land, but they also attempted to steal Lebanese cuisine (Karam). Israelis argue that hummus is originally from Israel because it has been an integral part of their culinary heritage for decades. The roots of this claim can be traced to the history of Jewish immigrants who settled in a Palestinian region and adapted their cuisine to the local ingredients and traditions (Ariel 40). This disagreement mirrors the larger conflict in the Middle East region, with hummus being contested much like territorial claims resulting in the current war. Instead of seeking exclusive ownership, it might be more productive to embrace hummus as a shared cuisine that symbolizes cultural unity and food delight.
No matter someone's background, hummus is an amazing dip that goes beyond borders. It serves as a testament to the power of food in bringing people together. In downtown Ann Arbor, Jerusalem Garden encapsulates this culinary unity with its exceptional Mediterranean cuisine, showcasing the extraordinary flavors of its creamy hummus and various delicious vegetarian or meat sandwiches. Hummus is a reminder that no matter our differences, the universal love for food can bring people together in the best way.
Works Cited
"A Hundred Tons of Hummus - Secrets of Jerusalem Garden Revealed." YouTube, uploaded by Jerusalem Garden, 26 August 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCwrrSiJzmU
“About.” Jerusalem Garden, https://jerusalemgarden.net/about/. Accessed 31 October 2023.
Ariel, Ari. “The Hummus Wars.” Gastronomica : the journal of critical food studies., vol. 12, no. 1, 2012, pp. 34-42, https://watermark.silverchair.com/gfc_2012_12_1_34.pdf?token=AQECAHi208BE49Ooan9kkhW_Ercy7Dm3ZL_9Cf3qfKAc485ysgAAA2wwggNoBgkqhkiG9w0BBwagggNZMIIDVQIBADCCA04GCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMZTFj_ar7MKp9c9MFAgEQgIIDH94O2rK4djJnHrCW6zr-8XRT6eRCkCaxQoQYI7h. Accessed 31 October 2023.
“History of Hummus - For the Love of Hummus.” For The Love Of Hummus, https://fortheloveofhummus.com/history-hummus/. Accessed 31 October 2023.
Karam, Zeina. “Which Nation Can Claim Hummus? Lebanon Says Israel Pilfered Traditional Dish.” South Florida Sun - Sentinel [Fort Lauderdale], 8 October 2008, https://www.proquest.com/docview/387544101?pq-origsite=primo&parentSessionId=eQZsn92wTG1TraDi5v9vcGV4GWmfqsF3UsK4hAC%2BZbc%3D. Accessed 31 October 2023.
Martin, Roland. “Hummus | Ingredients, Nutrition, & Countries.” Britannica, 27 September 2023, https://www.britannica.com/topic/hummus. Accessed 31 October 2023.
Stassa, Danielle. Hummus, Chicken Kabob and Rice. 13 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Stassa, Danielle. Jerusalem Garden Hummus. 13 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Stassa, Danielle. Jerusalem Garden Kitchen. 13 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Stassa, Danielle. Jerusalem Garden Outside. 13 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
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