Lan City Noodle Bar is the most convenient place in Ann Arbor to get beef noodle soup (November 2, 2025). Photo by Jason Qin.
by Mingze (Jason) Qin
A ribbon of steam curled upward, etching the memory into my mind like a photograph. A swirl of warmth escaping from the deep ceramic pot filled the kitchen with the comforting scent of soy, star anise, and slow-braised beef. My mother leaned over the soup on the burner, tasting the broth with her wooden spoon, her face glowing in the golden light of the stove. “Needs just a little more salt,” she said, and I nodded even though I didn’t really know what it needed. I was just six at that time. All that mattered was the aroma meant dinner was coming soon, and it’s my favorite: beef noodle soup. It wasn’t just food; it was home.
The soup connects me not only to my family but also to generations of cooks, dating back to the Han dynasty before us, who perfected this craft. At that time, all noodles were called “cake,” and noodles in soup were called “soup cake” (Zhang and Ma). In the 4,000 years since, each region in China has developed their own version of beef noodle soup. For instance, there’s Fushan hand-pulled noodles from the Shandong province, flat noodles from the Anhui province, Henan stewed noodles from the Henan province, and dan dan noodles from the Sichuan province, with each telling the unique story of its homeland (Zhang and Ma). The first time I had my mother’s beef noodle soup, I didn’t think much about what went into the bowl. Over time, I realized how much labor, patience, and love were stirred into that soup. Surprisingly, the simple-seeming broth is actually complex, made using “ginger, Sichuan peppercorn, cinnamon, star anise, and at least a dozen other spices” (Krishna). These ingredients seemed ordinary alone, but they created something magical in combination: first the bright kick of ginger, then the mumbling tingle of peppercorns, and finally the comforting aromatic smell from the star anise. Still, my favorite part of making this dish is the noodles themselves because the art of hand-pulling them always fascinated me. I used to watch my mother twist and stretch the dough, her fingers dancing with practiced rhythm. In some restaurants, you had to knead the dough 900 times before it could be pulled to make noodles (Ho). For me, the process was almost meditative, and though my attempts were clumsy, it taught me about patience. In every pull, there was care; in every bowl, history.
Beef tendon noodle soup is my favorite type of beef noodle soup (November 6, 2025). Photo by Jason Qin.
Beef rib noodle soup (November 2, 2025). Photo by Jason Qin.
When I eat beef noodle soup today, the flavor instantly brings me back to those early kitchen memories. Yet it feels a little different now. The laughter that once echoed in our cozy home has quieted. My mother (who splits her time between Canada and China) and I (who now call Ann Arbor home) have our shared meals turned into occasional phone calls and photos of what we’re cooking. Like the version I most recently had in Ann Arbor, it still reminds me of home, but something was lacking. What made those early experiences special wasn’t just the food; it was the people, the shared warmth, the laughter between slurps and noodles. For instance, Lanzhou beef noodles tells a story of migration and belonging and shows how dishes can hold entire histories (Krishna). I think that’s why it resonates so deeply with me. This is a dish born of necessity and love, fused with history and intention, reminding me and every Chinese person of our roots. Every element has meaning. The broth represents time due to simmering for hours, allowing each spice to reveal itself slowly. The noodles represent effort because each strand is shaped by hand and memory. The beef represents tenderness, made soft by broth cooking and care. When I finally sit down and take that first bite, it’s as if the past and present of both my family traditions and cultural roots meet in one spoonful.
Beef noodle soup has become my way of remembering. It’s what I cook when I miss home, when the world feels too large and impersonal. Preparing this dish brings me back to the center of who I am: someone who finds connection through flavor. Though time and distance may separate my family and homeland, the taste endures, reminding me that love and heritage, once simmered, never fade away.
Works Cited
Ho, Dylan James. “The Land of Hand-Pulled Noodles.” TASTE, Penguin Random House, 16 Mar. 2020, https://tastecooking.com/land-hand-pulled-noodles/. Accessed 7 Nov. 2025.
Krishna, Priya. “My Obsessive Quest for a Thrilling Beef Noodle Soup.” The New York Times, 11 Feb. 2025, https://www.nytimes.com/2025/02/11/dining/lanzhou-beef-noodle-soup.html. Accessed 6 Nov. 2025.
Qin, Jason. Photo of beef rib noodle soup. 2 Nov. 2025. Author’s personal collection.
Qin, Jason. Photo of beef tendon noodle soup is my favorite type of beef noodle soup. 2 Nov. 2025. Author’s personal collection.
Qin, Jason. Photo of Lan City Noodle Bar is the most convenient place in Ann Arbor to get beef noodle soup. 6 Nov. 2025. Author’s personal collection.
Zhang, Na, and Guansheng Ma. “Noodles, Traditionally and Today.” Journal of Ethnic Foods, vol. 3, no. 3, Sept. 2016, pp. 209-212. ScienceDirect, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2016.08.003. Accessed 7 Nov. 2025.