Home-cooked kosha mangsho on the stove (July 30, 2023). Photo by Gautam Mazumdar.
by Niloy Mazumdar
As I eat the warm curry, memories flood my mind. I see the slow weekends of elementary school, waiting for my mom to finish cooking dinner. I see the times I visited my grandparents, aunts, and uncles in India, celebrating the occasion with a big meal after not seeing each other for so long. Most vividly, I see my last family dinner before leaving for college, surrounded by the smiles of my parents and sister, and the smells of delicious food. I am reminded of all these precious moments while eating one dish: kosha mangsho.
Kosha mangsho is a Bengali curry made with slow-cooked goat marinated in yogurt and mixed with “onions, ginger, garlic… whole bayleaf, cardamom, cinnamon and clove…” among many other ingredients (Utsav). It also involves a unique cooking process known as bhuna, which involves “hours of stirring in mustard oil until the masala turns dark and the meat soaks it all in” (“From Kosha Mangsho”).
Traditionally, kosha mangsho was only eaten during special occasions, as preparing it required butchering an entire goat, a costly process in a time before meat shops (Goswami). Similarly, my family makes this dish for special occasions such as community gatherings, visits home from my sister in college, or achievements I earned in school. However, kosha mangsho is also a comfort meal for us, meaning there does not always have to be a reason for making it. Sometimes, we just want a delicious meal to share together.
Restaurant exterior of Taste of India Suvai (November 2, 2025). Photo by Niloy Mazumdar.
Similar dish to kosha mangsho (goat rogan josh) from Taste of India Suvai (November 2, 2025). Photo by Niloy Mazumdar.
One special memory with kosha mangsho that stands out for me is when I ate this dish the day after moving into our new home. At first, I was uncomfortable. The layout of the house was foreign, and I didn't feel ready to leave my childhood home behind. However, my grandma, who was staying with us at the time, told me not to worry and instead look forward to kosha mangsho for dinner. As she set down my plate and I took my first bite, I was filled with the warmth of the rich curry. The pieces of goat were incredibly tender, and the gravy was thick and spicy. The potatoes were soft, and the smell of garlic and ghee filled the air. While eating, I remembered thinking to myself that I should be excited about the opportunity to move to a new house, rather than scared.
Even though kosha mangsho is something I usually eat at home, it holds prominent cultural significance in both restaurants and the home kitchen. For example, in one specific restaurant by the name of Koshe Kosha, the owner Chiraag Paul “triumphs over the fact that the black mutton or kasha mangsho, the signature dish of Koshe Kosha, has made its name all over the place and is coveted even by foreign guests who cannot pronounce its name properly” (Chaudhuri). While that serves as a reminder of kosha mangsho’s influence in restaurants, Goswami reminds us that Bengalis also tend to cook this dish at home, sometimes specifically on Sundays (Goswami).
Kosha mangsho is a dish I would consider to be my favorite now, but it was not always like that. During high school, there was a period of time when I thought this dish had gotten a little “old” for my tastes. I wanted to eat other, non-Indian foods for dinner, and would often tell my parents to make something else. However, nearing the end of my first semester in college, kosha mangsho is all I crave. It’s not just about the dish itself, it’s about the time I spend with my family, and the memories it brings back. It may not be the most bold, extravagant dish out there, but it is a dish I truly appreciate.
Works Cited
Chaudhuri, Runa Das. “Menus matter: examining class and Bengali cuisine culture through restaurant menus in Kolkata.” Contemporary South Asia, vol. 27, no. 3. 30 Jul. 2019. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/09584935.2019.1648383?casa_token=ikjFH0xIs-8AAAAA:bxlmerXwAsDGj6DqHCqZeYA7zEB0tzfWX4womzvwGfxslXvhljQMqYkN7rEWZr0mtbqNWuWDierr. Accessed 7 Nov. 2025.
“From Kosha Mangsho to Champaran Meat: 6 regional iconic mutton curry dishes.” Times Entertainment. Times of India. 14 Sep. 2025. https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/food-news/from-kosha-mangsho-to-champaran-meat-6-regional-iconic-mutton-curry-dishes/photostory/123878812.cms. Accessed 11 Nov. 2025.
Goswami, Shreya. “Robibarer Mangsho And More: How Bengal’s Love For Mutton Transcends The Ages.” Slurrp. 17 June. 2023. https://www.slurrp.com/article/robibarer-mangsho-and-more-how-bengals-love-for-mutton-transcends-the-ages-1686908410271. Accessed 7 Nov. 2025.
Mazumdar, Gautam. Kosha mangsho on the stove. 30 July 2023. Author’s Personal Collection.
Mazumdar, Niloy. Similar dish to kosha mangsho from restaurant. 5 Nov. 2025. Author’s Personal Collection
Mazumdar, Niloy. Exterior of Taste of India Suvai. 5 Nov. 2025. Author’s Personal Collection.
Utsav. “The Magic of Kosha Mangsho.” The Gourmet Glutton. 4 Oct. 2019. https://thegourmetglutton.food.blog/2019/10/04/the-magic-of-kosha-mangsho/. Accessed 7 Nov. 2025.