Homemade Khachapuri. 10/10/2023. Photo by Dan Viderman.
by Dan Viderman
The 4K video shows the cheese exploding, creating bubbles of savory flavor. The egg practically melts on top of the cheese, almost attempting to prove its worth to the ever-more-favored cheese. A slight pan out shows dough circling the outside of what has become a soup of egg and cheese. But this is no bread bowl. It’s khachapuri, the national dish of Georgia, a country with a population roughly the size of New York City.
A stroll through the capital city of Tbilisi will find you sampling hand-rolled dumplings called khinkali, sponge cake called biscuit, and a myriad of white and yellow towering above them all called khachapuri. Khacha, meaning cheese curd, and puri, meaning bread (Tannenbaum), has over 50 different variations (Hattam) based on the region, with the three most popular ones being imeruli, adjaruli, and megruli. While the specific origins are unknown, khachapuri dates back at least eight thousand years and was always traditionally paired with wine (Dokoupil). Each iteration of khachapuri originates in its respective Georgian village, but none are as nostalgic as imeruli.
Every birthday, my great-aunt would always surprise me with imeruli khachapuri and other Georgian foods like khinkali and mchadi. These foods became so routine in my life that I just couldn’t imagine people growing up without them. It wasn’t until I was older and began “eating out” with my friends that I noticed just how sparse Eastern European food was. Even in New York, one of the most diverse cities in the world, I found myself resorting to saying that I was Russian, not Georgian, in an attempt not to confuse people into thinking that I was from the U.S. State of Georgia. As a student in a high school of six thousand people, I only knew one other Georgian, who still wasn’t exactly like me... who still wasn’t a Georgian Jew.
In Georgia, it’s common to find pork mixed with cheese, which in Judaism translates to approximately ten thousand different sins at once. Consequently, there is naturally quite a distinction between being Georgian and being Georgian Jewish. It was hard to find that intersectionality between staying true to my religion and staying true to my culture. Throughout my childhood, I was told to embrace my culture, but as a Georgian Jew, it was often easier to assume a different culture than try to explain my own. Going out to eat with my friends always meant either Chinese, Indian, K-BBQ, or something mainstream. But there finally came a time when it was my turn to offer a suggestion. The first time I introduced my friends to a little Georgian restaurant in the West Village neighborhood of Manhattan, they all asked me what the name of the “cheese pizza” that they were trying was.
18th Birthday Shabbat Dinner with various assortment of Georgian food, including khachapuri (top left and top right). October 27, 2023. Photo by Dan Viderman.
My friends weren’t the only people outside my to enjoy khachapuri, however. Georgian food has seen exponential growth over the years. Even Craig Laban, an esteemed food critic, found himself “In Philadelphia, on Bustleton Avenue down little Warwick Street” where, he said, “almost 200 diners find themselves in Gamarjoba” (Laban). In New York City, the restaurant Chamamama doubled the number of locations they had, both in Manhattan. Even still, all these restaurants exemplified solely Georgian culture. Khachapuri was rifled with pork and all the flavors exuded vibrant Georgian spices but none of the famous, kosher, Jewish cheese.
Photo inside of Marani Georgian Restaurant, which allows my family and I to celebrate our Jewish and Georgian foods and traditions. October 15, 2023. Photo by Dan Viderman.
But then, a local restaurant was slated to open in my neighborhood, one of the most densely Georgian Jewish neighborhoods in America, called Marani, Georgian for winery. It wasn’t until it opened that I realized that it said “Glatt Kosher,” making it as kosher as a restaurant could be. From that moment on, my family had a place to order our khachapuri from, my friends had a place to share my khachapuri with me, and I found a place where I wouldn’t have to compromise my values; neither as a Jew nor as a Georgian, where I could follow my religion but embrace my culture. Not just embrace it - I could share it. I could take my friends there while having them excidely attempt to butcher the pronuncuation of adjaruli Khachapuri and introduce them to Georgian culture, with a tangy hint of Judaism.
Dokoupil, Tony, et al. A Taste of Home. CQ Roll Call, New York, 2023. ProQuest, https://proxy.lib.umich.edu/login?url=https://www.proquest.com/other-sources/taste-home/docview/2799903938/se-2.
Hattam, Jennifer. “Rediscovering Khachapuri, Georgia’s Must-Try Classic.” Travel, National Geographic, 18 Apr. 2023, www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/rediscovering-khachapuri-georgias-must-try-classic#:~:text=The%20common%20refrain%20is%20that,Some%20are%20round%2C%20others%20square.
LaBan, Craig. "Giving Georgian Cuisine its Big Philly Restaurant Moment: The Kitchen Displayed a Deft Touch with Layered Flavors, Careful Cooking, and Quality Ingredients." Philadelphia Inquirer, Aug 06, 2023. ProQuest, https://proxy.lib.umich.edu/login?url=https://www.proquest.com/newspapers/giving-georgian-cuisine-big-philly-restaurant/docview/2846477622/se-2.
Tannenbaum, Kiri. “Georgia’s Khachapuri Combines Tradition, Egg and Cheese Bread.” Institute of Culinary Education, 25 Feb. 2019, www.ice.edu/blog/georgia-khachapuri-cheese-bread
Viderman, Dan. Homemade Khachapuri. 10 October 2023. Author's personal collection.
Viderman, Dan. 18th Birthday Shabbat Dinner with various assortment of Georgian food including Khachapuri(top left and top right). 27 October 2023. Author's personal collection.
Viderman, Dan. Photo inside of Marani Georgian Restaurant. 15 October 2023. Author's personal collection.