LA Lasagne

by Frankie Smith

A savory aroma traces from the oven, through my den, down the hallway, and creeps into my room–a fragrant signal to wrap up my homework and set the table. I follow the heavenly scent into the kitchen to see my mom, tossing her signature chopped salad while simultaneously stirring a small pot of extra marinara sauce on the stove. I peek into the oven, the heat pleasurably brushing against my cheeks, laying my eyes on a glass casserole dish, layered with golden-brown, red, and white components that blend to create my favorite home-cooked meal: lasagne. 

My mom serves me a hefty piece with some extra sauce to top it off. (Italians can never have too much sauce.) We hurry to our seats, but before the first word is uttered, we delve into our plates, each of us letting out an occasional “mmm,” complementing my mom on her routinely delicious creation. The savory, salty, and slightly acidic flavors melt on my tastebuds, with an earthy element creeping in as I chew into the coins of roasted zucchini and sauteed spinach. We bond over this meal, both raving over the flavors and engaging in insightful conversations about virtually anything: current events, weekly plans, or day-to-day stories. Although delectable, I can’t help but wonder, is our pasta dish really Italian? Not only is it made with pre-packaged ingredients found at our local grocery store, but is also meatless, veggie-fied, and organic. 

When examining pasta’s broader history, it's important to consider its untraceable origins: rumors that Marco Polo brought it back to Europe from his travels have been debunked, yet due to its spread westward from Asia, proliferation via Arab nomads has not been ruled out (Avey). Throughout its pervasive spread, many other cultures developed variations of the dish, as pasta consists of just flour and water or eggs–ingredients that comprise other foods around the world (Avey). China, for example, was acquainted with wheat-based pasta centuries before Europeans. (Serventi 4). Regardless of China’s noodle development, Italy “perfected its mastery and understanding of wheat, developing at the same time a highly diversified production of fresh pasta and a civilization of dry pasta based on durum wheat, cultivating a highly specialized industry” (Serventi 8). Within Italy itself, pasta-makers developed a higher degree of specialization, creating unique regional dishes: farfalle in Lombardy, bucatini in Lazio, or the orecchiette in Puglia (Lake).

However, pasta has been heavily “Americanized” since its introduction to the States. Rather than combining fresh ingredients, some American recipes, “had cooks add a tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce to the two cans of tomato soup that formed the basis of the spaghetti sauce” (Levenstein 16). Americanization is also undeniably evident on the shelves of supermarkets, with popular canning brands such as Campbell’s and Heinz creating ready-to-eat versions of pasta with red sauce (Levenstein 16). Furthermore, the all-American spaghetti and meatballs became a pervasive household staple (Avey). Thankfully, many restaurants have looked to history for authentic recipes and pasta-making methods. From Carbone in New York, Osteria Mamma in Los Angeles, to Mani right here in Ann Arbor, one can find authentic handmade pasta, thin crust pizza, and a range of antipasti options with ease.

In any case, pasta has become one of the most widespread foods in America. During 1880-1921, Italians were the only population who “managed to survive assimilation with their Old World food preferences” (Levenstein 2). Comparatively to other immigrant groups, their food traditions survived beyond the first or second generations, even becoming celebrated by the third. Thus, their food symbolizes a badge of honor, connecting the entire community and keeping Italian ethnic consciousness alive (Levenstein 2). 

As for the “Italian-ness” of my mom’s handmade lasagne, who cares. The dish meets my own standard of authenticity as it links me to my Italian heritage while still embodying what my ancestors found within their food traditions: connection. The dish is unique as it also ties in my own identity as a California native with a tight familial bond. By cooking for each other, enjoying meals, or even shopping together, the connection I share with my family over pasta is foundational to our familial relationship. Each Sunday dinner is a chance to bond, one meal at a time.