by Matthew Jia
That numbing feeling, the strong, pungent flavors that appeal to the diverse palettes, a matter of pride. It's the mix of these aspects that makes spicy food so important to Chinese culture. Here in Ann Arbor, I went to Evergreen to get a glimpse of spicy Chinese food and to learn more about the history of Chinese cuisine.
Evergreen is located very close to the University of Michigan north campus and is around a 16 minute bus ride and walk from the Pierpont Commons using the Northwood bus. It was opened over three decades ago, recently expanding to downtown Ann Arbor due to its success (Sumerton). Being the place where my parents would bring me after every swimming competition near the University of Michigan, I’ve developed some long lasting memories here. The warm lighting, comfortable, homely atmosphere with kind waiters and booths big enough for groups of six made each visit feel like a reunion with family. It was here that I came to appreciate the layers of flavor in dishes like Sichuan fish, in which the robust mala characteristic of Sichuan cuisine shines.
Evergreen Restaurant. Nov. 2023 by Matthew Jia.
Sichuan fish with chili oil and baby bok choy. Nov. 7 2023. Photo by Matthew Jia.
Sichuan fish features pieces of fish that have been cooked until they are tender and infused with the rich, reddish-brown sauce that is characteristic of Sichuan cooking. The broth is rich and oil-based, common in this type of dish to carry the flavors of the spices (Macau). I always smile taking the first bite of the fish, remembering the savory, umami flavor the rich sauce gives, the sourness from black vinegar to help balance the heat, the fresh aroma of the green onions and ginger, and of course, the pungent spice that the various peppers provide that make my mouth water for more.
One of the most important ingredients in this dish is Sichuan peppercorns, named after the fifth largest Chinese province Sichuan. This province is famous for its liberal use of hot peppers and is one of if not the most popular regional cuisine in China today (Wang). However, the province hasn’t always loved spicy food. In the middle of the 18th century, many peasants consumed peppers as a substitution for salt, making the pepper seen as the “meat of poor” (Wang). Despite this, in the early 19th century, Chen Mapo won great fame from locals after cooking this dish, and it very quickly occupied the tables of both ordinary and elite families (Wang). As a result, a new cuisine of spicy food became popular within both the rich and the poor, blurring the boundaries between the different social groups and helping strengthen a shared Sichuanese identity (Wang).
Even Mao Zedong, the founder of the People's Republic of China, had a significant influence on the integration of spicy food into Chinese culture (Wang). Mao, a native of Hunan province, which neighbors Sichuan and shares its love for fiery cuisine, was known for his deep affection for hot peppers. His assertion that "If there are no spicy [peppers], there is no revolution" became emblematic of the passion for spiciness, aligning the consumption of spicy food with qualities such as courage and perseverance (Wang). This sentiment resonated with many Chinese, particularly as Mao's image experienced a revival. The consumption of spicy food became not just a preference but also a symbol of revolutionary spirit and national pride (Wang).
To me, spicy food is a way to appreciate the history of my culture and create family memories. Sitting in Evergreen, with its cozy booths that seemed to absorb the laughter and chatter of our post-swim meet dinners, each dish served was a lesson in heritage. The Sichuan fish, a blend of bean sprouts and spices, explores ancient traditions and the communal spirit of Sichuanese culture. Its rich mala flavor and smooth, tender texture make it one of the province’s most iconic dishes today.
Interior of Evergreen with warm lighting and comforting chatter. Nov. 7 2023. Photo by Matthew Jia.
Booth that my family would always sit at. Nov. 7 2023. Photo by Matthew Jia.
Work Cited
Jia, Matthew. Booth at Evergreen. 7 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Jia, Matthew. Entering the Evergreen Restaurant. 7 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Jia, Matthew. Interior of Evergreen. 7 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Jia, Matthew. Sichuan fish with chili oil and baby bok choy. 7 Nov. 2023. Author's personal collection.
Macau, Hong, “The Piquant Tale of Sichuan Water-Boiled Fist.” Michelin Guide, 20 Aug. 2022. https://guide.michelin.com/hk/en/article/features/sichuan-cuisine-water-boiled-fish#:~:text=When%20it%20comes%20to%20what,pour%20hot%20oil%20over%20them.
Sumerton, Amy. “Evergreen Expands to Downtown.” Ann Arbor Observer, 26 July 2022. https://annarborobserver.com/evergreen-expands-to-downtown/#:~:text=At%20press%20time%2C%20Evergreen%20Downtown,usual%20proviso%20about%20downtown%20parking.
Wang, Hongjie. “Hot Peppers, Sichuan Cuisine and the Revolutions in Modern China.” World History Connected. Vol. 12 No. 3. 24 Feb. 2015. https://worldhistoryconnected.press.uillinois.edu/12.3/wang.html