Rich J.C.

Kimchi served at Rich J.C. restaurant. (Photo by Wenshan Wang)

Kimchi Memories Beyond My Culture

by Wenshan Wang

Anti-Korean sentiment in my hometown brought me to what’s become a life-long quest to find good kimchi. My hometown is in northeastern China, bordering North Korea. Growing up, I loved the authentic Korean eatery nearby, especially their kimchi. But after a 2016 political decision to limit Korean cultural influence (Chandrafn), many Korean restaurants closed down, including the one I grew up enjoying. Ever since, I've been looking for good Korean food. I found it at Ann Arbor’s Rich J.C..

The restaurant’s South University Avenue location has been home to Korean food since 1972 (Lee). First called Steve’s Lunch, it became Rich J.C. in 2000 when a Korean couple took over, according to the Ann Arbor Observer, and as of April 2023 the popular restaurant has come under new ownership once again.

After a short walk from the University of Michigan’s central campus, I pushed through Rich J.C.’s narrow glass door. The lighting was dim, but it felt cozy inside, with only one row of bar tables with high stools. I hung my bag on the hook on the wall and took one of the two empty seats. Melodious traditional piano music played as the aroma of crunchy rice wafted from hot stoneware pots. Conversations in different languages filled the restaurant with excitement. With the closely arranged seats, you'll quickly feel at home in the boisterous atmosphere. No one feels alone here.

The front door of Rich J.C. restaurant. (Photo by Wenshan Wang)

I ordered kimchi fried rice from amongst dozens of Korean classics on the menu. A perfectly runny egg laid on top of the flavorful fried rice with a heaping portion of baechu-kimchi. Kimchi can be traced back 1,500 years to the Three Kingdoms era when ancient Koreans chose fermentation to preserve food during the harsh, long winters (Surya and Nugroho). Of the more than 200 varieties of kimchi, baechu-kimchi is the most famous (Hongu et al). It’s made by fermenting napa cabbage with garlic, ginger, scallions, fermented seafood (jeotgal), and red chili powder (gochugaru). The presence of the latter gives kimchi a uniqueness that distinguishes it from other ethnic fermented vegetables (Surya and Nugroho).

Kimchi fried rice served at Rich J.C. restaurant. (Photo by Wenshan Wang)

As I took my first bite, I was transported back to my Wednesday lunch routine as a teenager back in Dalian, China. Feeling comforted and nostalgic, I sliced the egg down the center, letting the yolk flow and envelop the rice. The first bite was a delightful blend of creamy egg yolk with spicy, sour kimchi juice, creating a rich taste that ended with the sweetness of the grainy rice.

I dug into the cold kimchi next for a crispy texture with a lightly spicy, sour kick that beautifully cuts through the fried rice's richness. Kimchi is not only delicious, it’s healthy. Not only is it low in calories, it is also rich in fiber, vitamins, minerals, yeast, and lactic acid, which “has been linked to the elevated health status and life expectancy” of Koreans (Surya and Lee).

Beyond the tangible, kimchi embodies the intangible, intertwining with the Korean philosophy of yin and yang. Cabbage embodies yin; chili powder is the yang, creating a balanced combination. This aligns with the health philosophy that food is medicine, or as Koreans say, "yak sik dong won" (Surya and Lee).

I appreciate that kimchi carries memories of the ancient Korean lifestyle. According to an article in the Journal of Ethnic Foods, kimchi-making skills are still important in Korean family cultural traditions, transmitted from older to younger generations, fostering a sense of cultural continuity (Surya and Lee). The cultural significance extends to Kimjang, a collective kimchi-making event, recognized on the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013 by UNESCO.

Bringing these memories of cultural traditions and life philosophies to the world, kimchi has successfully built a national identity and gained international recognition. I’ve become hooked on the delicious kimchi and other Korean delights at Rich J.C.. I've tried almost all of the dishes on the menu now. My favorites always are anything with their handmade kimchi. Though kimchi isn’t a food from my culture, revisiting my memories of kimchi through eating at Rich J.C. reveals the indelible mark kimchi has left on my heart. By savoring different foods, I’ve had the privilege of getting a glimpse of the diverse lifestyles and cultures worldwide. I appreciate Rich J.C.'s owner for connecting Korean culture with the A2 community. And I value cultural differences and wish for an inclusive coexistence.

A few of my favorite dishes served at Rich J.C. restaurant. (Photo by Wenshan Wang)

Works Cited

Chandran, Nyshka. “China-Korea Feud over THAAD Is Hurting K-Pop in Mainland Market.” CNBC, 24 Nov. 2016, www.cnbc.com/2016/11/23/china-korea-feud-over-thaad-is-hurting-k-pop-in-mainland-market.html.

Hongu, Nobuko, et al. “Korean kimchi: Promoting healthy meals through cultural tradition.” Journal of Ethnic Foods, vol. 4, no. 3, Sept. 2017, pp. 172–180, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.08.005.

Kim, Kyunghee. “Hungry for More -- A Tribute to Rich J.C.” Ann Arbor Observer, 24 May 2023, annarborobserver.com/hungry-for-more/.

Lee, Dan. “Steve’s Lunch.” LocalWiki, 21 Oct. 2011, localwiki.org/ann-arbor/Steve%27s_Lunch.

Sang-hun, Choe. “Starship Kimchi: A Bold Taste Goes Where It Has Never Gone Before.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 24 Feb. 2008, www.nytimes.com/2008/02/24/world/asia/24kimchi.html.

Surya, Reggie, and Anne Ga-Yeon Lee. “Exploring the philosophical values of Kimchi and Kimjang culture.” Journal of Ethnic Foods, vol. 9, no. 20, 2022, https://doi.org/10.1186/s42779-022-00136-5.

Surya, Reggie, and David Nugroho. “Kimchi throughout millennia: A narrative review on the early and modern history of Kimchi.” Journal of Ethnic Foods, vol. 10, 2023, pp. 1–16, doi:10.1186/s42779-023-00171-w

“UNESCO - Kimjang, Making and Sharing Kimchi in the Republic of Korea.” Intangible Cultural Heritage, ich.unesco.org/en/RL/kimjang-making-and-sharing-kimchi-in-the-republic-of-korea-00881. Accessed 31 Oct. 2023.

Wang, Wenshan. Photographs of food at Rich J.C.. Sep-Nov. 2023. Author’s personal collection.

Wang, Wenshan. Photography of Kimchi Fried Rice at Rich J.C.. 8 Nov. 2023. Author’s personal collection.

Wang, Wenshan. Photography of the front of Rich J.C.. 27 Oct. 2023. Author’s personal collection.

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