The inside of a Nguyễn Ngọ’s Bánh mì, November 26, 2023, By Leopold Hoang
by Leopold Hoang
The baguette bridges the western and eastern hemispheres. For me, the baguette is what my childhood was made of. From bò kho (a Vietnamese beef stew) to the famous bánh mì (a type of Vietnamese sandwich), the baguette is a popular carbohydrate that is used in Vietnamese cuisine. This versatile bread is essential to my identity as a Vietnamese-American.
My favorite bánh mì growing up was made by my grandma. I loved hearing the crispiness of the bread as she sliced the loaf followed by the slathering of a thin layer of tomato sauce, topped with canned anchovies in the doughy fissure. She would unwrap the steamed chả lụa (pork sausage) from the banana leaves to serve as the finishing topping.
Baguettes, however, have not always been a part of Vietnamese cuisine. They originated in quaint 19th-century French boulangeries (bread shops) and emerged when food insecurity was a glaring issue. Bread was becoming an important symbol for worker’s rights and relief from hunger especially during the Russian Revolution of 1917: “Bread, Peace, and Land” (Henaut). The idea was also used by French factory workers to advocate for better working conditions after World War I. Consequently, during the French colonization of Vietnam in the late 19th-century, the baguette became an integral component of Vietnamese cuisine (Peters).
The loaf was used in Vietnamese sandwiches, bánh mì, but also as bread to be dipped in bò kho. Although the stew’s selling point is the braised beef, the light and airy baguette cuts the intense fatty flavor and aroma of the herbs. It is the perfect mild pairing to a flavorful dish. My dad would simmer the stew overnight until the beef would fall off the bone and the carrots would be tender but still have a bite to them. My family would gather around the table as we passed the baguette around, tearing pieces off to dip the bread into our steaming bowls of bò kho. At the end, there would always be a little extra baguette than stew– the perfect finish to a delicious dinner.
Along with many other Vietnamese immigrants, my family found themselves in Houston– one of the largest Vietnamese enclaves due to its proximity to the ocean and warmer climate (source). Along with them, the immigrants brought their recipes and baguettes. The Saigon Square, adjacent to Chinatown, is most recognizable by the southern Vietnamese flags that line the sidewalk and a statue commemorating the Vietnam War. Here you can find imported durian and rambutan in supermarkets, the popular Vietnamese dessert, chè, that sells out before 2p.m. every day, the cajun hotspots with the spiciest crawfish, and of course, the bánh mì shops at almost every corner you turn.
Bánh mì during a beach picnic with a friend, March 16, 2023. Photo by Leopold Hoang.
Baguettes and bò kho with the family during my trip to Vietnam, July 19, 2023. Photo by Tuphuong Tang.
However, the most famous baguette and bánh mì shop is Lee’s Sandwiches. The restaurant has expanded from Houston to Orange County to serve one of the largest Vietnamese populations in the U.S.. Lee’s baguettes have become such a commodity for the community that their stores feature a drive through (Krishna). Although Lee’s baguettes are hard to beat, my family prefers the bánh mì sold by the quaint shop directly diagonal to Lee’s, Nguyễn Ngọ French Cafe. I sometimes think my family is the only one keeping this small shop in business; however, the bánh mì are created with a nostalgic taste forever linked to my childhood. We always enjoyed their bánh mì before we went on a family vacation or on a long road trip as its convenience and economical price made it the perfect meal on the go. The baguette’s shell would flake onto the tongue while the chopped carrots and cucumbers would soften the intense flavors of chả lụa and the jalapeño. The sandwich is pure satisfaction. The simple sandwich is rich with flavor and cross-cultural history. It is a symbol of how the Vietnamese people endured French colonialism, the Vietnam War, and immigration. The baguette is not only my favorite bread but a telltale symbol of my heritage.
Works Cited
Henaut, Stéphane and Jeni Mitchell. “Bread, Peace, and Liberty”: The Socialist Baguette. United States: The New Press.
Krishna, Priya. “Bánh Mì in a Drive-through? Vietnamese Restaurants Reach for Fast-Food Success.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 26 Apr. 2022, www.nytimes.com/2022/04/26/dining/vietnamese-fast-food.html?searchResultPosition=7.
Peters, Erica J. “Review: Rice and Baguette: A History of Food in Vietnam by Vu Hong Lien.” Journal of Vietnamese Studies (Berkeley, Calif.), vol. 13, no. 1, pp. 140–43, doi:10.1525/jvs.2018.13.1.140.
Tang, Tuphuong. Bánh mì with bò kho. 19 July 2023. Author’s personal collection.
Hoang, Leopold. Bánh mì picnic. 16 March 2023. Author’s personal collection.
Hoang, Leopold. Close up of Bánh mì. 26 Nov. 2023. Author’s personal collection.