by Fiona Hemstreet

As the holidays rapidly approach, being away from the homemade meals of my childhood grows increasingly more agonizing. When the air turns brisk I specifically begin to crave tamales, as I am reminded of Chrismasses spent making the dish in my abuela’s kitchen. Hunting for this distinct Mexican food in Michigan proved difficult, but hours spent scrolling through Yelp reviews eventually led me to Tmaz Taqueria, a hole in the wall restaurant in Ann Arbor. 

Intrigued by promises of genuine Mexican cuisine, I set out to try Tmaz for myself. Upon entering, customers are greeted with the strong scents of roasting chilis, meat on the grill, and freshly cooked tortillas. The bell chimed as I opened the door and the squeak of my shoes on the linoleum tile floors transported me to the taqueria near my home in California, making me increasingly optimistic that I would find authentic Mexican food. As I stepped up to the register, I was forced to choose from the vast assortment of flavors including pork, barbacoa, or peppers and cheese. Sticking to tradition, I went with my family's classic, a pork tamale and a bean and cheese pupusa. 

Waiting for my food, I listened to the restaurant’s Norteño love songs, reminiscent of the songs my own abuela would sing as we cooked. The wait was short, within minutes my name was called and my food was ready. I felt the heat radiating from the dish, steam rising from the corn husk encapsulating my meal. Peeling back the husk revealed a perfectly boiled tamale. I quickly bit into the soft masa, exposing the tender meat within. The subtle sweetness of the exterior, posed the perfect contrast to the savory pork, tasting of spices and chilis. The tamale was made even more flavorful by the homemade, heat-packed salsas served with my meal. Though Tmaz’s take on the pork tamale differed from my family's own (which features a thin, spice-filled masa traditional in Chihuahua, Mexico), I will be sure to return for a taste of the familiar flavors of a home cooked meal. 

Bringing the flavors of Mexico to Ann Arbor, Mexico City native Cesar Hevert founded Tmaz Taqueria in 2011. According to an article in MLive, after 13 years of living in Michigan, Hervert grew tired of the supposed “Tex-Mex” options of the Midwest; no restaurants serving “the real food” of Mexico. Thus, he opened Tmaz Taqueria providing Ann Arbor authentic Mexican street food: tacos, pupusas, tamales, tortas, and soups (“Menu”). 

Within Mexico, flavor profiles and styles of Mexican food vary by region. For example, Chihuahua, where my family is from, is specifically known for its regional grilled meats and hand-made cheeses. Though Tmaz does not highlight Chihuahua specific flavors, their inclusions like seafood from the coasts or lettuce toppings from Baja, California, incorporate flavor profiles spanning the entirety of Mexico.

Although each family, individual, and restaurant may prepare tamales differently, the warm masa and savory meat filling always remind me of home. Buying a tamale from a store or restaurant may not be the same as cooking one with friends and family, but the taste of old tradition can ease anyone’s feelings of homesickness when far from family. However, one does not need a long-standing connection to the tamale to enjoy its delicious flavors. Whether the tamale is an unfamiliar and foreign meal or a cherished family tradition, any Ann Arbor local needs to try Tmaz Taqueria for a taste of an authentic tamale.