Picanha
Picanha
Grill in my backyard at home in Miami flipping the picanha. Photo by Sebastião Sandkamp, November 8, 2025.
Fire, Family, and Picanha
by Sebastiao Sandkamp
The first spark on my dad’s grill always starts the same way. He lights the fire starters, the wood starts to crackle, and the smoke starts to rise slowly carrying the smell of picanha, my favorite steak. Even now, writing this while my father lives overseas, that smell alone can take me back to my summers in São Paulo. Every weekend we gathered around the grill for churrasco, Brazilian barbecue. My dad stood behind the flames, cutting and flipping the steak with a sense of patience that I could only dream of having. For us as a family, it wasn’t just about eating. It was about spending a “forced” kind of quality time during the long process of the picanha from the grill, to the table.
My father grew up in Brazil, where picanha isn’t just food–it’s pride (Yes, we Brazilians are very proud of our steak). It’s the top sirloin cap, famous for its thick layer of fat that melts slowly into the meat as it cooks over wood creating a distinct charred flavor. The tradition of churrasco began centuries ago with southern Brazilian cowboys who cooked beef over open fires while herding cattle (Minas Café). Over time, it became a cultural symbol of togetherness.
As Aventura do Brasil explains, “Picanha is a must-have at any churrasco,” a dish that “is usually cut into small, bite-sized pieces, passed around on a plate and everyone can help themselves to every celebration” (Aventura do Brasil). That ideal filled our backyard every weekend in Miami. I still remember the first time I tried picanha.
My dad sliced me a small medium-rare piece right off the skewer. He put a pinch of salt on the piping hot filet and handed it to me with his bare hands. It was salty, smoky, and soft enough to melt in my mouth. Around me, my relatives and friends laughed and passed plates of picanha around while Portuguese music played in the background.
In Brazil, beef has always been tied to culture. Anthropologist Jeffrey Hoelle writes that “beef is both a signifier of development and the symbolic and material fuel for a development process” in Brazil (Hoelle 744). People see beef as a marker of success and living a high-quality life aimed at avoiding temptations. That belief has shaped how my dad cooks. He never rushes. Waiting beside him was always the hardest part because the smell made me impatient, but it also forced me to slow down with him. He cooks over wood, not gas. “Gas is for convenience, not tradition,” he always says. As Food & Wine explains, Brazilians prefer charcoal because “that fat can really feed a fire” (Kessler), and you can taste that extra flavor when the smoke hits the meat.
The finished picanha was taken as a single shot on a wooden platter in my home which I had just finished cooking up with my little brother. Photo by Sebastião Sandkamp, November 8, 2025.
Sebastiao (me, on the right) and my little brother Henry (on the left) holding our finished picanha that we had just cooked. Photo by Denise Sandkamp, November 8, 2025.
By the time the picanha is finally ready, each churrasco is filled with simple sides that never change. My mom brings farofa (toasted cassava flour), rice, and beans to the table. When my dad finally slices the picanha, he gives me the first piece and says, “The best part goes to my first-born son.” something he kept saying even as I got older and spent less time living with him. Those words mean more now than ever. They remind me that sharing food is how Brazilians show love.
The story of picanha stretches across continents. Cattle first arrived in Brazil with Portuguese settlers in the 1500s, and by the 19th century, grilling meat had become a social tradition across southern Brazil. Today, picanha is served in restaurants around the world, from São Paulo to Miami. I sometimes go to a restaurant in Miami called “Texas De Brasil” but even then, no steakhouse matches the taste that comes from my dad’s woodfired grilling.
Cooking picanha has taught me about patience, family, and where I come from. It showed me that culture isn’t just something you’re born into. It’s something my dad kept alive each time he lit a fire. The flavor reminds me that even far from Brazil, we can hold on to our roots through the simple act of cooking. Someday, I’ll light my own grill and teach my kids how to do it the same way–slowly, with patience and with meaning. When the smoke rises, they’ll know it's more than a meal. It’s the taste of where we come from, carried forward through fire, family, and picanha.
Works Cited
Kessler, John. "How to Grill Picanha." Food & Wine, 2 May 2023, https://www.foodandwine.com/how-to-grill-picanha-8656349. Accessed 6 Nov. 2025.
"Picanha – A Must-Have at Any Churrasco." Aventura do Brasil, 22 Mar. 2021, https://www.aventuradobrasil.com/blog/picanha--a-must-have-at-any-churrasco/. Accessed 6 Nov. 2025.
Hoelle, Jeffrey. "Jungle beef: consumption, production and destruction, and the development process in the Brazilian Amazon" Journal of Political Ecology, vol. 24, 2017, https://journals.librarypublishing.arizona.edu/jpe/article/2024/galley/2283/view/. Accessed 6 Nov. 2025.
“History of Brazilian Barbecue (Churrasco).” Minas Café Restaurant, 9 Dec. 2016, https://www.minascaferestaurant.com/history-of-brazilian-barbecue-churrasco/. Accessed 6 Nov. 2025.
Sandkamp, Sebastiao. Grilling picanha in my backyard at home in Miami. 8 Nov. 2025. Author's personal collection.
Sandkamp, Denise. My brother and I with picanha. 8 Nov. 2025. Author's personal collection.
Sandkamp, Sebastiao. Cooked picanha resting on a wooden platter. 8 Nov. 2025. Author's personal collection.
AI disclosure: UMChatGPT was used to make suggestions on how to improve the first draft. The following prompt was used: “Attached are links to online articles, cite these links into MLA formatted citations. https://www.minascaferestaurant.com/history-of-brazilian-barbecue-churrasco/, https://journals.librarypublishing.arizona.edu/jpe/article/2024/galley/2283/view/, https://www.aventuradobrasil.com/blog/picanha--a-must-have-at-any-churrasco/, https://www.foodandwine.com/how-to-grill-picanha-8656349.”