Wood-Smoked Prime Rib

You’ll need kitchen twine.

You’ll need 2½ cups of hardwood chips, preferably an equal mix of applewood and cherrywood, soaked in water for 1 hour.

The herb mixture can be made a few hours in advance. Keep it covered.

One 6-pound boneless rib roast

2 tablespoons minced rosemary

2 tablespoons minced thyme

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons minced ¬tarragon

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

¾ tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons olive oil, preferably extra virgin

Trim excess fat from the meat and let it come to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Combine the rosemary, thyme, parsley, tarragon, garlic, salt, black pepper, crushed red pepper and oil in a bowl, mixing well. Smear the herb mixture all over the meat.

Prepare the grill for indirect heat: If using a charcoal kettle grill, light the coals in a charcoal chimney. Once they turn ashen, pour half of the coals on one side of the grill and half on the other side. Place a drip pan between the two piles. Drain the wood chips and scatter them evenly over both piles of coals. Return the grate to the grill and place the meat over the drip pan. Close the lid. An hour into cooking, to keep the fire temperature steady, add about a dozen fresh coals, six on each pile.

If using a gas grill, preheat for about 15 minutes. Start the fire on one side, setting the temperature to 325 F. Drain the wood chips and place them in a smoker box or in a foil pouch with holes punctured with a fork on top to allow smoke to escape. Place the pouch or box on the flavorizer bars. Set the meat on the side away from the fire. Close the lid.

Cook for 12 to 14 minutes per pound; a roast of this size should take 1 to 1½ hours. That said, fire is unpredictable, so use an instant-read thermometer to make sure the meat is at a safe temperature. For medium-rare, the meat should register 130 F. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and allow it to rest for 15 to 20 minutes. Cut into slices 1 to 1½ inches thick.