Weeds

We also have several problem trees. The Russian olive uses a lot of water, but is not particularly invasive. The Siberian Elms, however, are very invasive. While I have been germinating grass seed, I am also germinating elm seeds. (The seedling in the photo is only 20mm (3/4" across).I have learned to recognize the seedlings and pull them out when they are very small. This means crawling on hands and knees inspecting every seedling (except the grass, which is obviously grass). The elms also sprout from roots and stumps very readily.I suspect that many of my carefully watered and mulched seedlings that I am (for the moment) assuming are clover, are actually field bindweed — a very noxious, invasive vine with pretty flowers. In some areas of our common meadow the bindweed chokes out almost everything else (except the thistle, which is tall). Mowing does not help, as it is low-growing (when not climbing) and has perennial roots.

Last year I learned about tumbleweed, but forgot what the seedlings look like. The little ones make me think of miniature long-leaf pines. The leaves are needle-like and the emergent seedlings are a 2-3” ball of these leaves. They soon send four stems out close to the ground, which curl up at the ends as they grow, eventually forming a ball 2-3 feet in diameter. In Autumn this ball breaks off from the root and rolls away with the wind, scattering seeds. It is also quite spiny at this stage.We have been somewhat successful controlling the weeds by mowing every few weeks. This mowing removes the flower heads of many species and does not kill the grass. Covering the soil with black plastic for a season will cook the roots and seeds, but is not practical for three acres of meadow or ten acres of neighboring Sunset Park. The only effective way to control the perennials is chemically, but some of our neighbors strongly object to using herbicides.

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