Post date: Mar 4, 2013 2:32:49 AM
1 March 2013
This weekend I visited four of the 'white towns' in the hills between Masaya and the Pacific ocean. Photos from this trip are located here. See marketing article. My photos are here.
As frequent, I took the 210 bus into the small mercado at UCA (University of Central America). Route 210 starts at JHC (where I live) and winds through most of Ciudad Sandino before heading to Managua (UCA). It is about half-hour before it hits the road to Managua, but easier than taking the 115 (which goes more directly into Managua) and then transferring to UCA. Or I could walk to the main highway (about 15 minutes) and get any number of buses into town. Or I could take a taxi. Lots of choices. The buses are sociologically most interesting, though. If I take the 210 I have my choice of seats, and many people get off at Piedracitas or Mercado Israel Lewites - before UCA - so I can sit all the way.
The route from Managua to Los Pueblos Blancos takes a long climb to El Crucero, which appears to be a high point on the ridge because it has very many (20-30) communications towers. The Pan American Highway runs along this ridge south towards Costa Rica. Two lane, with many semi trucks. Vehicles stop in the road, even when paved pullout is available which, of course, impedes the relatively heavy traffic. The air all over Nicaragua is very hazy due to farmers burning fields at this time of year. I was not able to see the Pacific from the highway due to the smoke.
I was headed to Diriámba, and jumped off bus when I saw the sign for Museo Ecologico in Diriámba. I followed the sign to a newly painted building and walked around it to find an entry. I vaguely recalled that it opened at 10 am and I was early, so I walked into town at 9:30am. This was only about six or eight blocks, and I could see the church tower to give me directions. When I walked back to the museum I found a young couple outside and the gate was ajar, but the young man assured me that it was not open that day. Harrumph. In most towns you often see houses set up as small businesses, with colorful fruit stands prominent here. Vendors often set up on sidewalks, that may extend into the street. Sidewalks can be a challenge from houses that are built too high, so they raise the sidewalk to match their door height.
So I walked north out of town about one kilometer to the hotel where I had a reservation. This hotel is located in an extensive and densely-planted garden with many bromeliads and some edible fruits (the red ones are ripe and tasty). I also saw a tree with red blossoms and fruits growing out of the main stem. Roberto (owner of Hotel Totuga Verde - green turtle) gave me a ride into Jinotepe and stopped at a money changer where I changed US$50. (The first US$100 that I changed has lasted two months.) He dropped me at Jinotepe town square, which seems busier than Diriámba. I took a walk thru the mercado, which was very busy. Interestingly there is a public toilet in square: C$3 (about 12 cents) to use it from the person who keeps it (more or less) clean. In the town square was a young man selling live teal (small puddle ducks) - green wing, I think. A number of nice two-story buildings in Jinotepe, but they are marred by power lines so I have no pictures.
I lunched on barbecue chicken wings with french fried potatoes at Terry's Diner (corner of square opposite BAC) for C$70. Large glass of orange juice C$30. I needed two glasses!
Took overloaded interlocal van (nominally 15 passengers but usually many more) to San Marcos. Had to squat all the way. Almost could not stand or exit the bus when we arrived. Sat in church to recover. Only cruciform church I have seen, so far, in Nicaragua. Statues were all draped in purple - for Lent.
The town park in front of the church is larger than that in Jinotepe but much less active, and with less shade. Fortunately there are some clouds today and it always is breezy up here. Very few nice buildings and all one- story except church and a few nondescript larger buildings. As a relief I bought a small Pepsi (237ml) cost C$7 or less than 25 cents. The American University here has distinct campus unlike some that use existing buildings or fit into the cities. Lots of student rooms to rent. Some older houses in San Marcos and elsewhere have masonry walls that come up half way (more or less) with the upper part of vertical board and batten. All of these that I saw look very old. There are also many examples of very nice masonry work on older houses.
Back in Diriámba I had first hot shower in exactly two months. Nice clock tower by market in bend of the road so it is visible from afar and an old water tower that is less prominent but just as nice.
So far three groups of musicians or lone guitarists have come through. Two bar girls but no bar business. But it is only 6:30 on a Saturday eve. Local baseball game on TV - León vs. San Fernando. No idea where San Fernando s. (Béisbol esta el depotivo nacional de Nicaragua.) The older guitarist was called in to lead Las Mañanitas - used for birthdays. I hope he was tipped well. Now the party guests rapidly leaving with pieces of cake in hand. Presents still not opened. I finally asked for la cuenta when a group of five came in looking for a table. Took a moto taxi (3-wheels with small motorcycle engine - like a motorized rickshaw with driver in front) back to hotel for C$10.
Diriamba has the busiest motor park I ever saw. Any space between vans is filled with moto taxis. Van to Masaya left only half full, but filled by the time we got to Jinotepe. The vans don't go into Catarina, so I dropped at big rotary outside of Catarina. Took moto taxi to overlook for C$10. Many shops along the way selling local crafts - largely ceramic - and garden plants, for which this area is famous throughout Nicaragua. Bought a lobster-etched steel bracelet and two small boxes turned of beautiful wood. The variety of crafts is amazing. Many of the ceramics are painted in bright colors, along with some weavings and furniture. The walk from the tourist area to the highway is longish, but lined with interesting shops.
On the guidebook recommendation I went to eat at Restaurant El Túnel, which requires passing through the seating area of two other restaurants that are strung out along the rim of the Volcano Apoyo crater. Waiters try to entice customers into their area as you pass. Eating filet (of beef) with onions and pomegranate fresco. At least it was called 'grenadillo' but it did not look or taste like I thought it would. Does have a few red seeds in it so maybe they purée the entire fruit, waxy membrane and all. Doesn't suck through a straw very well, however.
My bad. Pomegranate is 'Granada' in Spanish, but granadilla is passion fruit - which was not the flavor I remember from Brazil, where I loved passion fruit. Or maybe my taste buds are not Nicaraguan, yet. Beets in salads here are not cooked - same taste, but more crunch. The sauce on the steak reminded me of the sauce on the chicken wings yesterday - a bit commercial but not bad. Roof structure of the restaurant building was of steel and has nearly completely rusted away near the eves. I don't see it falling in, but the wind could pick up the edge and peel it off.
Walked out to the highway rotunda, taking fotos of shops, to get transport to UCA, Managua. But the Managua bus only goes to Huembres, which is across Managua, so I took bus to Masaya to transfer to a UCA bus. The Masaya bus terminal is very large, but mostly empty, dusty, not super busy, and very dirty. Very poor market on fringe. Took taxi to the small bus terminal (that serves UCA) about two blocks from the 'old' now tourist market. Got a newish van to UCA, which was not very full. I waited about 15 minutes until it is full. Terminal is small and not busy. On the ride back we overfilled the van, with three people standing. Can you imagine standing for a 40 minute ride in an already crowded van. Same price, too. I was lucky and got a good seat with leg room.