Post date: Feb 24, 2013 7:24:14 PM
24 February 2013
Trip on express bus was pleasant, but not express. Not more than 3-4 standees at any time, but plenty of stops. Charge to Masaya is C$20 (a bit over half way) and all the way from Managua to Granada is C$24 (US$1.). Bus goes right to the center (zocalo and cathedral).
I wandered around to find the hostel and get my bearings. Walked right past it the first time but did not see the big sign. Then I tried a different version of "south 1.5 blocks from the cathedral". Decided to look for gifts for a while, as it was well before noon. Finally looked up the Emails confirming my reservation, one of which said "50 meters from La Gran Francia" where we stayed in the past. It is in the same block as Gran Francia, on the far corner, opposite side of the street. Simple room. Not much air without the fan. Reasonably quiet.
Took brief rest, then went looking for lunch. Passed a lot of bars but they had only drinking customers. Came across a Chinese restaurant in El Martirio with many customers so gave a try. Kung Pao chicken was tasty but a bit more piquante (spicy) than I recalled. Interesting, because Nica food is not generally spicy.
Nearly all the restaurants and bars have a garden - often only ten feet square - in the middle or in back. Makes them pleasant if the music is soft.
During the international poetry festival there are extra chairs set up in the large square in front of the cathedral. This is nice - even if I don't understand the Nicaraguan poets who read all day - because it provides a place of rest. Not that the square lacks for seats, but they are all usually part of one or another beverage vendor, and I otherwise feel obliged to buy a cold drink - not that a cold drink would not be welcome in this heat. It is hot enough today that my sleeves are obviously wet with sweat, which is quite unusual for me. I might even have to have a soda this afternoon! There are plenty of cold drink vendors in the square.
Got a bath and washed out my shirt. Hope it dries by tomorrow so I can wear it to church.
Dined at the chocolate bar at Hotel Darío. Having chef's salad and chocolate milkshake, which is milk plus ice plus cocoa powder mixed in blender. Delicious! Lots of activity in the street, which is blocked from autos. Food and trinket vendors as well as entertainers - not all particularly entertaining but adding to the street life. Many folks walking. All tourists.
After dinner about 500 gathered on front of the city hall adjacent to the cathedral for poetic ceremonies, including recognizing Ernesto Cardenal and half-dozen other poets from Spain and Latin America and Bangladesh. Bengali English is almost as hard for me as is Spanish. He read his poem in English, then a Nica read it in Spanish, then the poet read it in his native language.
A reading by a white-haired bilingual American woman in both English and Spanish. A reading by a prominent Nica woman.
Seats filled by seven pm to about a thousand people.
Had breakfast at Kathy's Waffle House then went to the cathedral for 8 am mass. But the sound system was so bad that I could not understand one word, even though the priest spoke slowly and the church was filled with expensive Bose column loudspeakers. Another example of a failed sound system where technology was supposed to triumph over basic acoustics. Actually the sound was much better outside than inside! The front pews had the worst sound.
I spent over an hour listening to stories from a poor but very upbeat migrant who was born in the States, raised in Miami, and has traveled all over, basically poor the whole time. He currently helps tourists for tips, which barely pays for rice and beans, and sleeps in a Red Cross shelter. I gave him C$100 (US$4) because he was entertaining me - and he seemed genuinely surprised for the gift. I figure it wouldn't hurt and was cheaper than a movie. We discussed poverty, politics, and much more. He asked if I knew of a place in Ciudad Sandino where he could get help, and I genuinely don't know of any. Interesting bit of the morning, however.
Got tired of hanging around in the heat so checked out of the hostel about ten. I asked if I could lubricate their squeaky gate, but the receptionist said it provided a sound when someone entered, and I understand that need, so it still squeaks.
The Lopez Island group is going to the Misa Nicaraguese at Batahola Culture Center this evening at 6pm. I will take the 115 bus in and try to meet them there.