To Leon and Back

Post date: Feb 4, 2013 1:44:37 AM

3 February 2013

Saturday I traveled to Leon, one of the two old cities of Nicaragua. I returned Sunday. Photos are available here. Leon has very many beautiful political murals.

There are three ways to get between cities in Nicaragua: local bus, express bus, and inter-city minivan (called 'interlocal taxi'). I left Jubilee house at 7:15, walked to carretera (highway) about one mile (1.6 kilometers) from the house, #115 bus passed shortly after I left the house, looped thru the Bello Amancer barrio while I walked along the main road. Thus it takes as long to walk alongside Bello Amanacer as it takes the bus to pass through that barrio. I encountered several people on this walk. But people who walk don't look at each other. In city folks are more friendly.

[When I arrived a month ago there was a weak spot in road near the highway. The pavers had worked loose and formed a hole that cars could not go around. It has been repaired, thankfully. Not all damaged roads get repaired here.]

I arrived at the bus stop at 7:40 and waited for a bus or minivan to Leon. The minivans did not even pull into the right lane to stop. It was hard to read the route on the front of the buses before they were too close to hail. After waiting about 20 minutes I walked another kilometer along the highway to get to the main entrance to Ciudad Sandino, where there is a more active bus stop and even a pedestrian bridge over the highway - which no one seems to use. Same story, no bus would stop.

So I took a local 210 bus back into Managua. Got off at Mercado Israel Lewites. It took me quite a while, and many askings, to find the bus terminal, which is behind this chaotic market. I first found the parking lot, which had many Leon buses but none going soon. Asking once again I found the next street which contained about ten buses for various destinations. I asked here and was told there were cheaper buses and more expensive buses. I decided to take the less expensive route - figuring it would be more interesting. Well it was more interesting and took much longer. This was the local to Leon. Conductor collected C$35 (Cordobas, about US$1.50) for the full trip. Sat over rear wheel - bumpy and no leg room. In these old US school buses there is nominally space for three Nicas (two gringos) on left and two Nicas (one gringa) on right. Not to count between 40 and 60 standees. (It was too crowded for me to count.) Luggage racks over seats full. No freight on roof for this trip, though.

It took the driver 15 minutes to wend our way out of market on very narrow, crowded streets. No one controls traffic. But the bus was on the road by 10 am. I had wasted 2.5 hours getting the bus. And, yes, it was a local. By 15 minutes past Ciudad Sandino about half the riders had gotten off. And they kept getting off with a few riders getting on. Since the aisle was crowded, it took some doing to get to a door (either the front door or the emergency exit in the back of the school bus). Often the conductor would help with large packages.

The old highway to Leon is in bad condition (see photo above). No other vehicle passed us going toward Leon, even tho we stopped often. Trucks coming toward Managua, some pickups, very few taxis or private sedans. (Although I did get a photo of two oncoming sedans.) Road goes up and down, but not curvy. Stopped at many cross-roads or houses. By 11:30 we were still picking up riders.

By the time the road was bad I moved up to better seat because seats were becoming empty. Very little habitation since KM52 or before. After the turnoff to Puerto Sandino at KM 58 we got new paving. Now much traffic, and picking up passengers. Our driver squeezed among a small herd of cattle - like many road encounters a tight squeeze, but no hamburger. The terrain is dry grassland with close trees - not apparently planted, but same species. Old US school buses take hell of a beating on these old roads. My hand is very gritty and beginning to look black from all the dust. I wore long-sleeve shirt, as were about 1/2 men leaving Managua. Closer to Leon all wear T-shirts. Stopped on left when new highway to Managua (24 KM from Leon) turned off to right. Met another bus from same company coming from Leon while conductor got a drink. Local in-city buses don't have conductor.

The bus terminal in Leon is a dozen or so long blocks from the cathedral, which has a main altar and a number of side altars that are nicely carved. All the bus terminals are surrounded by market stalls. This route into the city is essentially an extended market. Sidewalks are frequently a challenge, as they are punctuated with unexpected ups and downs. The (former) train station is now empty, but the area around it is also a market. Many nice murals all over Leon. The office (and residence) of the Dean of UNAN (Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Nicaragua) is one of the best-kept buildings in Leon.

Whereas Managua has three-wheeled moto-taxis with a motorcycle front and two wheels in back, Leon has pedal rickshaws with a bicycle in back and two wheels up front, all with covers for sun and rain protection. Taxi in Leon cost C$20, almost as much as the trip from Managua! All over Nicaragua are horse carts used strictly for freight (and family).

I stayed at 'Casa Ivana' hostel, run by a Dutch former NGO worker who married a woman from Leon. A single room with bath and cold water costs US$15 per night. This hostel was remarkably quiet for being only two blocks from the cathedral. I had a lunch/dinner at Comedor San Benito ('comedor' means dining room). OK for $2 with beverage. I rested a bit from all my walking the took another walk to find a cold drink. The 'pulperia' was only two blocks from the Rio Pequito which runs through the city. Its borders are lush green, with many birds. Down the hill is a stream that runs through Leon. The riparian area is full of birds and lush with vegetation. The larger trees are filled with fruit and birds.

There was some sort of festival, with booths set up for three blocks, much to see and buy, and folkloric dancing. I got some good videos that I posted on YouTube for you: Street Scene; bawdy scene; Spanish style

I returned via a 'inter local taxi' which is an air-conditioned Toyota minivan (not sold in US) that leaves when full. I was the last passenger and had zero wait. Cost: C$51 - or US$2. Trip took only one hour to Ciudad Sandino, where the drive let me off. I then caught the local 210 route which has its terminal right across from JHC.

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