Ramble No. 3

Anticipating the pleasure of another ramble, we decided upon 1st October (1870), and fortunately were favoured by a bright sunny day, and though the wind was somewhat easterly, not sufficiently chill to cool our interest in picking up scraps about the old spots in this historic township of the parish of Birstal.

We went down towards Walkman Yard Mill, commonly known as Puddledock, one of the oldest in the district and in former times turned by a waterwheel, we entered the borders of Liversedge. When steam engines came into vogue, one of a very primitive kind was erected here for the purpose of pumping the water to supply the wheel, to turn the stocks and other machinery. In process of time the wheel was removed and other engines of a more improved construction did the work, the engine balk, as was common, being outside the mill. These had also to give way to modern improvements and the machinery is now turned by one possessing all the appliances which constitute a well appointed steam-horse.

It is difficult to ascertain the origin of the names of places, houses, mills and fields and it requires much leisure time to get at the true one. Of this mill I will give one I heard of the other day. When the engine pumped the water to supply the wheel, it stirred it up to that degree that one of the fullers or millers said it made the water like a puddle dyke or puddle dock, hence the name of the mill, though I am inclined to suppose that the real name is Walkman Yard, significant of the name of the yard in which it is built, or of the proprietor of the land. A fulling mill was formerly called a walk mill.

Taking the route leading to Liversedge Hall, the autumnal tints were visible on the oaks, the elms, the ashes and sycamores adjoining, and the swallows and martins no longer twittered around the hall, having departed on the 29th September to sunnier climes with their young broods.

We may say:

“The leaf which autumn tempests wither,
The birds which then take wing,
When winter’s winds are past come hither,
To welcome back the spring.”

In the garden of the hall upon a rockery are some remains of its antiquity in the shape of a gothic head of a window and portions of a shaft or column, carved with zigzag lines, evidently belonging to the chapel. A small fanciful plaster head of a monkish appearance was also shown us. It is much to be regretted that more was not preserved of this ancient mansion. The garden is extensive and surrounded by high stone walls, similar to those you see about old houses, and in which flourishes a number of large fruit trees. Dr. Whitaker in his “Loidis and Elmete” gives us a very brief description of Liversedge and states that the chapel was in the west wing of the hall. There is a plate in it of singular window opening eastward and beneath it two doorways, but he seems to have paid a sort of flying visit to this district and his description of Liversedge and other places is exceedingly meagre. This is to be regretted, as he might then have treasured up much that is to be feared is lost to the antiquarian.

Taking the lane leading towards Roberttown, what is generally termed the Yew tree met our view. Its proper name is Headland, so called no doubt from its position on the knoll of the hill. It is a house of some pretensions and of a quadrangular shape, having a south view overlooking the valley near Heckmondwike and the slopes above it; over the doorway in front is the date 1690 IEF and also on the gateway leading into the garden, IEF referring to the Farrer family, Josias and Elizabeth, in the lifetime of whom it was erected, or altered. The house is gabled, surmounted by stone terminals, but from its being modernised lately, there is not much left of ancient work, the only bit, a head and scroll over one of the windows.

The interior, however, though this has been greatly altered from the original, possess much to interest the antiquarian. The dining room is panelled with dark oak and in excellent preservation. The fireplace is surmounted by three pillars of a spiral form, grooved from the bottom to the tops, something like a staircase leading to the belfry of a church without the steps. The top of the room is ornamented with diamond shaped plaster work, consisting of vine leaves and fruit, flowers etc. The moulding round the room is of plaster and upon which is represented an heraldic device upon a wreath composed of the head of a lion, the wings of a bird and the tail of a fish; possibly having some reference to the arms of the Farrers, or it may be what is termed a nondescript.

In the hall, or passage, and in an adjoining room, the flags are of diamond shape. The staircase leading to the rooms above is protected on each side by fine carved oak banisters, very unique in appearance and in excellent preservation. The bedrooms call for no special remark. In the kitchen is a small unique inlaid carved cupboard let into the wall, quite a gem in its way. The out-offices are similar to what you see about houses of that class and the garden somewhat extensive. It is the residence of Captain Dymond, one of the proprietors of the adjoining colliery; but was well known, formerly by an inn and large carrying establishment. The fields are known by the names of Horse Field, Long Close, Lathe Croft, Law Field, Ellen Tree Flat, Makin Bottom, Miller Ing, etc.

On the roadside leading to Roberttown is an old gabled mansion named Duxbury, without date, though one was on the house originally. There is nothing striking about the place, the most noticeable thing being its mullioned windows on the exterior, surmounted by a stone hoodmould. In the interior, nothing to particularise. Attached to the house are fields known by the name of Rein Field, Harrison Ing, Tenter Close, Dovecote Ing and Pond Close, etc. It has long been the property of the Brooke family; its present possessor is Mr. Samuel Brooke. There are two incidents in connection with Duxbury which will be familiar to the inhabitants of Liversedge; one the attack by robbers upon Mr. Brooke and his housekeeper, Miss Exley, about two years ago, and their gallant defence, putting to flight several inveterate scoundrels, who were subsequently convicted and transported; and the other the elopement and marriage at Birstal of a niece of Mr. Brooke with Mr. Benjamin Hall of Roberttown, the circumstances of which were so romantic that they would form the groundwork of a good novel. This elopement occurred about thirty years ago and created quite a sensation in the district, from the fact that the happy pair never lived together afterwards.

A little above Duxbury is the workhouse, used previous to the introduction of the new Poor Law and the formation of the Dewsbury Union, and adjoining it one of the pounds for waifs and strays for this portion of Liversedge. The building has been converted into dwelling-houses, is private property, rejoicing in the name of Providence Buildings. We now reached the termination of our ramble, a short distance from Roberttown and examined another old mansion.

We could not ascertain whether it had any particular name. It is sometimes called the old Hall and Low Fold. It is a large quadrangular house, gabled in front and two sides, topped with stone terminals, with chimneys outside, and projecting gargoyles with curious faces for conveying the water from the roof. The stone work is much decayed and on some portions of the building fast wearing away. The front doorway has some architectural pretensions and the upper portion much worn, the initials RGM, the date below almost obliterated. We fancied we could make out the figures of 16 and comparing the style of the house with others in this township, should say it was erected about 1666. The windows are mullioned ones, the number of lights varying in different portions of the house and over them strong, stringed, dished stone cornices. The kitchen door is a remarkably strong oak one, studded with large nails, giving it the appearance of solidity and great lasting power. Over the doorway there is the remains of some carving and an indenture in which has originally been fixed a plate, probably containing a date. It is to be regretted that this has been removed.

The outbuildings are extensive and the gardens of considerable size, the walls covered with large stone copings and upon one of which we perceived a sundial had been fixed, but no use at present. Leading to the front is an ancient gateway, the pillars of which were once ornamented by two large round balls, eighteen inches in diameter. They are now laid on the ground near the gateway. It is a great pity that the owners of these old spots do not pay more attention to their preservation – too often their only interest in them is the rent. The house is occupied as cottages and in a much different state than when it was the property of the Greens, once a family of distinction and note in Liversedge.

The rooms in the lower part of the house still possess interest, the oak panelling in what would be the best room being very fine and not daubed over with paint, as you occasionally see. Over the fireplace, the panelling is ornamented with two raised wood spindles, emblematical of the spindle wheel of the olden time, when our ancestors, even in high life, did not consider it a disgrace to be employed on that useful article of domestic life. The chambers were also panelled and had dished stone hearths, a protective of fire, for the great quantity of wood needed in the erection of houses formerly would need such precautions. The ceiling of the front bedroom contains some exquisite plaster work, showing much taste on the part of the owner, as well as the artist who executed it. It is  divided into four diamond shaped compartments, enriched with foliage, shields and devices. The divisions of the compartments are emblematical of hunting and hawking, as well as agriculture and contain in them, stag, hounds and hawks, vine leaves and grapes, the lily and the rose, wheatears and shields with the rampant lion, with other devices, the whole forming a splendid specimen of plasterwork worthy of the imitation of those who design at the present day, in this material for the ornamentation of our modern dwellings.

It would be too tedious to describe in detail all we examined, and I must dismiss the old house by saying it has also a fine substantial oak staircase, with a four lighted mullioned window, with carved banisters and at its foot a panelled oak door; in fact, all the doors in the interior are panelled and furnished with curious latches and handles. The names of the fields are Near, Far and Upper Common Close, Three, Four and Six Days’ Work, View Tree Lumb, Sundoor Field and Upper Back Croft, etc. To those who are fond of etymology they could employ much time in tracing the derivation of the names of fields, for there is, no doubt, attached to many of them a history. Mr. William Moffatt, one of the tenants, showed us a chair, once the property of the late Sir George Armytage of Kirklees Hall. Though it has the appearance of a sentry box, it certainly is well adapted for personal comfort. Sir Joseph Radcliffe of Rudding Park, is the present owner.

The autumnal storms and the shortness of the days will interfere with our strolls, but, as time and opportunity offer, we shall resume our “Rambles on the Slopes of Liversedge.”