A backpacking tour over 3 Passes in Himachal Pradesh  ... using Local Buses & Share-Maxx'es. A non-touristy route from South of GNHP (Great Himalayan National Park) over Jalori-Pass, then crossing Rohtang-La to Keylong in Lahaul and then West into Pangi Valley, almost to J&K border ... and then south crossing over the rarely used Sach-Pass to Chamba and Dalhousie. 

In this page: 
Day-5 Part-2: Udaipur > Killar (Pangi valley)
Day-6 Rest Day at Killar 

30th July 2011: 10:30AM - We continue the bus journey from Udaipur to Killar (pronounced Killaad in Hindi locally) the road was becoming bad and most of the time just a single lane dirt track. 

Swirling dust cloud was raised by traffic and our bus. A few people started putting on nose-mouth masks in the bus and most people closed the glass windows. I made the mistake of keeping my window open (to take pictures) and by the time we reached Killar, I had caught a bad racking cough.

The scenery however continued to be awesome all the way to Killar. At 10:50 we passed a village called Salpat that had a nice looking bridge crossing the Chandrabhaga river.

A bridge to Salpat Village ... but we go straight

Madgrha Nalla water runs across the road - our bus wades through easily! 

After a short tea stop (noon) at Tindi our bus conductor gets back in with his money-bag

After Tindi the valley again widened out and the scenery  near the river banks became lush green with fields of crops being grown perhaps with ample water from the river. Soon the dirt road started climbing up again and a village called Purthi was coming up.

Purthi Village is coming up ahead at 1:30PM

Some passengers were getting ready to alight here, including a little girl wearing the typical Pangi Valley dress with an embroidered 'M' cut on the skirt hem. With her Dad's permission i got a picture of both of them after they got down at Purthi. The bus stopped here for a 15 minutes for lunch or tea as the pax fancied. I just had a cold drink.

Parts of Purthi Vill across the river (2:15PM)

Little later as we were nearing another village whose name sounded like Cherri to me some Pax told me there was a nice Guest-House there for tourists to stay. But, while I was still considering if I should get down there and stay  for a day; Cherri came and went fleeting past! I just got a glimpse of the GH there which seemd decent looking to me as in this snap below:

Fleeting glimpse of Cherri-GH as we pass by!

Finally reached Killad town bazar around 3:45PM. Walked up the road to a sort of basic hotel "Chamunda View" which was supposed to be the best hotel in town at Rs 400/- per night. I was dead tired after that long bus ride; and the coughing from the road dirt had become worse for me now. I knew that I had to get some medical attention fast. 

Walked up hill to the Govt Public Health clinic (only one in town) and met a Doctor there. They gave me some antibiotics and other pills and asked me to take rest for a day. It was free consultation and the medicines too were free; as it was in a Tribal belt where all services are free. Even for all tourists as they don't have any system to collect cash etc. The Nurses, and the Doctor there, were nice people. They welcomed me and called the Doctor down even though it was well past the normal OPD hours for them.

Back at the Hotel, I told the room service boy, that I will stay on for another day and rest here and not to disturb me for anything and went to sleep. The medicine may have had some sleep inducements too. 

31st July: Though I had slept well over night the sough was still there and pretty bad at that. Was in the room whole day and resting and did venture out much except to take some pictures from the Hotel terrace.

The Chamunda View Hotel was getting some new signposts painted ... and left to dry on the hotel terrace!

Later in the evening felt a bit better, so went to the taxi stand and booked my seat for Chamba ... actually both front seats in the Share Maxx so as to have comfortable ride. 2@Rs 500 each for 6:00AM departure.  

Beautiful views of Pangi Valley and the Chandra-bhaga river just out of Udaipur (click to enlarge)

Local stone houses - with Dish TV antenna

Nearing Tindi the valley narrows and the river passes through a gorge noisily

Looking back towards Tindi - the valley and the river has again widened out

The Girl & her dad with the Pangi dress

Cherry Village coming up ahead

Around 3:40PM after turning a bend around a big ridge Killar appeared ahead - on the opposite ridge there - above and past the huge waterfall
Killar skyline looking East; from where I came

Looking West from Killar - snow peaks and the Valley where I will be turning South to Sach-Pass


See all pics as Flickriver: Killar & Pangi-Valley

See all pics as Flickriver: Sach-Pass