Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim

Ancient Goldsmithery

One of the high points in the history of goldsmithery is the Etruscan jewellery of about 600 BC, when granulation and filligree techniques reached a perfection never again achieved. Greek goldsmithery flowered between the 5th and 2nd centuries BC. Diversity of motifs and vividness of individual elements, craftsmanship and mastery of metal document the outstanding level of ancient goldsmithery. Mainly gold was used, while precious stones at first played a minor part, except for finger rings. Only in the late Hellenistic period, during the transition to Roman times, did gems and paste become more frequent.

Hellenistic snake bracelet, 3rd-2nd century BC, photo Günter Meyer

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From Rome to Byzantium

Roman jewellery develops from Etruscan goldsmithery combined with a strong Greco-Oriental influence. As already noticable in the late Hellenistic period, jewellery is now more colourful and opulent. While individual items are of less refined workmanship than their earlier models, the number of items worn together increased. With the partition of the Roman empire, in its eastern part –Byzantium – art s inspired by the Christian faith. Persian-Indian influence is evident in the sumptuous gem- and pearl-studded Byzantine jewellery, yet its greatest glory is its superb enamelling.