Chain

*sigh* It's a long topic... Basic information about maintaining chains on a bicycle equipped with chain gears. Most of these apply for a single speed/hub gear bike.

The mandatory bible is Sheldon Brown on Chain Maintenance

Personal preferences

At the moment, I use Rohloff S-L-T chains for single speed and hub gears, and KMC X10 Gold/X10SL Gold for 10-speed Shimano systems.

I use the bio-degradable Rohloff chain oil exclusively on my chains, applied very sparingly on the rollers and the edges of the chain plates of an almost dry chain.

I rinse my chains in warm water with a bio-degradable dishwashing liquid, applying nail brush until it's almost perfectly clean. The best to do chain maintenance is after the chain has been washed out completely in a rain.

Types of chains

- by dimensions: outer width determined by the number of "speeds" to use with (still in use: 6-speed to 11-speed), inner width (1/8" or 3/32"), number of links

- by material (surface treatment: nickel plated, gold plated etc)

- by shifting capabilities (vendor specific, one-direction, single speed including BMX etc)

- by joint (quick link that can be opened by hand or pliers, replaceable rivet, non-replaceable rivet)

- by brand

For example, a Shimano chain typically uses a special pin for joining the chain and it can be used only once, but KMC chains are shipped with a quick link that can be opened any time.

Grime tends to stick to a cheap Sunrace chain while a nickel plated Rohloff chain can be cleaned easily.

Compatibility

In general, a 10-speed chain will work on a 9-speed system because the difference is in the thickness of the outer plates. It is the best to use a system with the chain designed for it.

3party chains work just as well on any setup as the OEM chains. I use KMC on Shimano, for example.

Chain wear

Chain wear and a resulting chainwheel wear is increased by:

- cross-chaining

- use of a combination of smaller rings (32-16 as opposed to 42-21) (forces are distributed on a smaller surface)

- contamination: dust, mud, water, metal particles, excess lubrication etc

- rider/overall weight and forces of exertion

- using the same gear combination frequently

- improper or lack of lubrication and the lubricant used

As a result, chain wear is reduced by:

- a chainline close to straight / avoidance of cross-chaining

- using big rings more often (while avoiding cross-chaining)

- keeping the chain as clean as possible

- a lighter setup including the rider, and a lighter ride (if it makes sense...)

- avoidance of being in the same gear(s) all the time

- using the proper lubricant and cleaning method

- the use of a closed chain case (gear case) - not possible with chain derailleurs

How to check for wear:

- Measure link distance with a ruler

- See how much the removed chain bends aside when held out in the air

- Use a chain wear check tool (Rohloff Caliper, Park Tool CC-2, CC-3 etc)

- Use a manual method as described here, for example

Belt drive

A popular alternative to the chain is the belt drive. Benefits are low maintenance, increased lifecycle and low noise. The market leader is Gates with their Carbon Drive system.

First and foremost, you need a compatible frame that can be opened for the belt. The drivetrain includes a belt chainring, a chainwheel for the hub that is specific for geared hubs, and the belt which must be fastened by moving either the bottom bracket or the rear axle. In short, it requires a lot of planning and is limited to single speed or geared hub applications. There are a lot of manufacturers offering bicycle models with belt drive, for example the Cube Hyde, the Focus Planet or the Trek District.