Chockstone Gully - Table Mountain Climbing Guide
Chockstone Gully - Table Mountain Climbing Guide
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Location: The route links the Saddle between Table Mountain's North-East corner and Devil's Peak to the top of Table Mountain near to Maclear's Beacon. OSM Map - Route not marked
Overview: A short and popular route linking the saddle to the top of Table Mountain. Note that this route is officially graded 'D', but for the most part consists of sustained 'C' grade, with a short but demanding crux (on pitch 3) that borders on 'E' Grade. This route should only be done under an experienced leader, the climbing is steep and protection is marginal on pitches 1 & 2.
Approach Description:
The approach is identical to that of Springs and Saddle Face, with their first pitches lying ~20 metres apart. Follow the description of Springs.
1. Chockstone gully first pitch is marked by the gold arrow, the polished rock pitch of Saddle Face & Springs by the red arrow.
2. The pitch is steep, awkward and sustained C grade for ~15 metres. A rope should be used
3. Tim leading the pitch, the face is featureless thus offering no protection. The crack can be protected with #4 and #5 cams, or opportunistic #3.
4. The mantle onto this flat section is exceptionally awkward due to the absence of any good holds, DO NOT underestimate.
5. Cross the ledge to the Silverstream-Ledges traverse path. and follow it left for 60 metres to the rest of the route.
6. Move through the rock window
7. Pitch two is adjacent to a long ramp-like boulder just after the window.
8. This pitch has a long traverse, start by climbing the crack on the left (C+).
9. Squeeze past this boulder. Follow the narrow ledge with good holds toward the chimney.
10. This section has poor protection but is secure climbing. Squeeze into the chimney, and exit on the Devil's Peak side onto a boulder strung ledge.
11. Looking down the chimney
12. The obvious chasm with a huge chockstone (hence the route name) is the final pitch of climbing.
13. The rubble at the mouth is somewhat loose
14. Views out over Devil's Peak
15. The first few metres of this pitch is the route's crux and borders on E grade. This should be lead by an experienced climber, as a ground fall is possible. The deep crack can protect the later sequences well with #1 or #2 cams.
16. It may be best to split the final pitch into two very short pitches if the group is inexperienced. The difficulty of the start warrants attentive belaying and minimal rope stretch to prevent a ground fall.
17. Squeeze into the wider portion of the chimney and then climb up the opening, on clean and well protected rock (C).
18. If the final pitch is split into two, both are very short.
19. This climbing is relatively easy but a bit awkward, especially with a backpack.
20. Top out and move into the chasm.
21. Exit via a B grade chute on the right.
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