Spring Step-Over

Route Description: 

Follow the pipe track 150m beyond Wood Ravine to the clear stretch at the front of Spring Buttress, scramble up a 4m (B+/C) recess indented into the rock opposite two dead trees. Immediately ascend another two shorter but equally difficult scrambles that are in front & slightly to the left. Continue up the bushy slope briefly until a 4th staircase-like scramble - it is the easiest of the first 4 scrambles despite looking the most difficult - owing to some excellent hand holds that are slightly hidden on the far left side (B+).

Follow the wide grassy ledge to the rock band and then continue left ~15m until you encounter a small inside corner with a rock face reminiscent of Swiss cheese, scramble up this & the short recess to a small rocky ledge (C) that is then briefly followed forward into another corner. Climb directly up the left face (D) or the right face onto the rocky terrace (C) to the wide bushy ledge. Follow this ledge directly to the next rockband where the 1st D pitch is.

The 1st pitch appears as a blocky staircase heading up from right to left, a few metres right of a large fault running up a smooth face - there is a large cairn on the base but it is quite well camouflaged. Climb up this for 10m pitch (D) to a narrow bushy ledge where you can set up a belay. Then continue along the ledge a few metres and scramble up the 3m black rock face (D).  

Follow this subsequent bushy slope to the headwall and then a small distance left to a large recess in the orange rock leading up to the traverse ledge (C). Traverse this ledge right, there are several very exposed moves but not difficult enough for a rope to be necessary. You will reach an exposed corner obstructed by a sturdy fin shaped slab, most people will be able to squeeze through beneath, however large individuals will need to step down 1.5m to the lower ledge and do the intricate traverse around it - this is C+/D (Comparable to the crux of Wood-Spring Traverse) so roping is essential. Continue along the ledge, past through one more exposed corner until a short recess on the left which leads to the chasm with the large chockstone.

Climb up this chockstone from the inside and to the top of the needle (C), head to inside corner overlooking Slangolie Ravine. The main 20m D pitch starts here with the Step-Over - it is less difficult than it appears and can be well protected by slinging the large horizontal horn before making the committing move - thereafter climb the 20m recess to the blocks at the top of the ridge where good cam rails exist to anchor. The lead belayer below has ample selection of cracks to anchor themself.

Ascend the crest of the ridge via sustained 4th class / B-C scrambling, the way is well cairned but is obvious regardless. The final push is met by one 5m D grade scramble on a clean white face, although short and not so exposed, this is probably the most committing climb on the route - anyone that is not well experienced with rock climbing should be roped. The ridge then curves around to meet a large terrace where multiple Spring Buttress routes converge. The loose & steep gully in the middle is followed to the top of the buttress.

Descent: 

Wood Ravine & Three Firs are both very close descent routes, Kasteelspoort is the easiest option but does not start so close by.

The route is commonly paired with the Wood-Spring traverse, as the final gully ascent is rather unspectacular and quite a slog - in this case Wood Ravine is the obvious descent.