Overview: The most difficult section is high up in Kasteels Gully, and here some parties prefer the 'Cups and Saucers' variation face which is around to the left of the gully.
Route Description:
Ascend the Valken Ravine watercourse up to a rock cliff a the head of the ravine. Traverse to the right against the cliff face, following the ledge. The ledge (and cairns) will guide you to a step which leads into a gully, this is Kasteels Gully. Ascend Kasteels Gully, scrambling through two rock bands. There is an alternative to the second scramble around the left hand corner called "Cups and Saucers". Where Kasteels Gully starts to open out you should traverse right out of the gully and onto Kasteels Butress. Follow cairns to the right along the wide ledge.Climb a small gully and follow the path diagonally left and up until you run into a headwall. Take a step and two small chimney sections to pierce the wall. Go diagonally right and around the final corner.
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