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Location: This is the ridge starting to the left of and then above the now notoriously popular 'Wally's Cave'.
NB Currently (May 2018) the path to Wally's cave is CLOSED by SAN Parks.
Overview: A pleasant easy (Grade 'C+') rock climb of 2 pitches which intersects with the normal path that avoids the chains part of the usual way up the peak. Note this is a rock climb and a rope and protection gear should be used.
Overview: A pleasant easy (Grade 'C+') rock climb of 2 pitches which intersects with the normal path that avoids the chains part of the usual way up the peak. Note this is a rock climb and a rope and protection gear should be used.
This climb is referred to as the South East Arête in David Mercer's Guidebook to the Lion's Head climbs (Wally's Cave sector).
Route Description:
Route Description:
Wally's Cave may be approached from either the old path to the large triangular rock where the demolished Fire Watcher's hut used to be, or from the higher of the 2 Paraglider launch points where a precipitous path runs under the rock band,
Wally's Cave may be approached from either the old path to the large triangular rock where the demolished Fire Watcher's hut used to be, or from the higher of the 2 Paraglider launch points where a precipitous path runs under the rock band,
Once at the bottom of the South ridge, scramble up the left (Clifton) side to a platform. The first short grade C pitch is steep with rounded rails but good protection is possible with Cams.
Once at the bottom of the South ridge, scramble up the left (Clifton) side to a platform. The first short grade C pitch is steep with rounded rails but good protection is possible with Cams.
Then walk approx. 20m right to the corner below a wide chimney groove. Climb either 2 short or one longer B+ pitch up this chimney to a ledge. Above is a short scramble which intersects with the path that one takes to avoid the chains on the usual way up the peak.
Then walk approx. 20m right to the corner below a wide chimney groove. Climb either 2 short or one longer B+ pitch up this chimney to a ledge. Above is a short scramble which intersects with the path that one takes to avoid the chains on the usual way up the peak.
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