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Saddle Face - Table Mountain Scrambling Guide

Location: The route links the Saddle between Table Mountain's North-East corner and Devil's Peak to the top of Table Mountain near to Maclear's Beacon. OSM Map - Route not marked

Overview: First climbed in 1894 by Jim Searle, Arthur Roger & T.W. Chignell, it serves as a hugely enjoyable alternative to Ledges at a lower technical grade (but far more exposed!). Iconic for its hugely enjoyable 30m B+ top pitch on clean, high quality rock. The route can be kept to 4th class / B+ grade by bypassing the lower pitch along the Ledges path and then circling back via the Ledges-Silverstream Traverse which is the recommended way for most hikers/scramblers. The scrambling on the top pitch is quite straightforward but very exposed (any fall would be fatal), a rope is a advisable - especially when wet - unless all are experienced climbers.

The original route makes use of the "polished rock" pitch, officially rated C grade but in reality E1 but which is further complicated by slippery moss & lichen covered rock. This variant should only be attempted by experienced trad climbers.

Approach:

Original Route:

The original approach can be found on the page for Springs up until slide 17 where the Springs route starts. Once at the start of Springs, turn right and follow the Ledges-Silverstream Traverse path approximately 70m to the base of the Saddle Face top pitch.

Via Ledges-Silversteam:

Follow the Ledges route up until slide 17 where you encounter the overhang with the crawl through, at this point turn 180° to reveal a wide grassy ledge - this is the Ledges-Silverstream Traverse ledge. Follow this ledge for quite some distance (About 250m), you will encounter the occassional boulder hop but there is no technical difficulty.

Route Description:

From the base of the Saddle Face, approach the bottom right shoulder via some easy scrambles and awkward moves to avoid the climber's friends. From the corner, take a diagonal line up & across the face left towards a large crack of darker rock housing a large chockstone - many variations are possible so choose the one with the most ideal holds or options to place protection. Climbing up the crack directly is a popular alternative but is very tricky in the wet. the standard way is to step around the corner just right of the crack onto the wide grassy ledge - this is the trickiest move of the entire pitch. This tricky step around can be avoided if you are happy to climb up the face through a layer of climber's friends.

Once on the grassy ledge the verticality of the route diminishes and it becomes a series of short scrambles to wide ledges. All such rock bands provide ample spots to anchor a rope. Walk off left from the top most grassy ledge and a few more short & easy scrambles will land you at the top of the mountain in view of Maclear's Beacon.

Descent:

Left Face B and Platteklip gorge are safe options to descend to Tafelberg road, and Skeleton Gorge or Nursery Ravine to return to Newlands side but both are extensive detours. Experienced climbers can also descend down ledges which offers a far more direct descent.