Saddle Face - Table Mountain Scrambling Guide
Saddle Face - Table Mountain Scrambling Guide
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Location: The route links the Saddle between Table Mountain's North-East corner and Devil's Peak to the top of Table Mountain near to Maclear's Beacon. OSM Map - Route not marked
Overview: First climbed in 1894 by Jim Searle, Arthur Roger & T.W. Chignell, a hugely enjoyable alternative to Ledges. Iconic for its hugely enjoyable 30m B+ top pitch on clean, high quality rock. The route can be kept 4th class / B+ grade by bypassing the lower pitch along the Ledges path and then circling back via the Ledges-Silverstream Traverse which is the recommended way for most hikers/scramblers. The scrambling on the top face pitch is quite straightforward but very exposed (any fall would be fatal), a rope is a advisable - especially when wet - unless all are experienced climbers.
The full route makes use of the "polished rock" pitch, officially rated C grade but in reality, E1 and a poor choice when wet. This variant should only be attempted by experienced mountaineers competent in rope use.
Route Description: Follow the images under the relevant sub-headings. The description for Ledges or Springs can be used to get from the saddle path to the rockbands in photo 3 where the route description for the polished rock route begins.
Via Polished Rock: Unless you are a purist, it is best to use the Ledges path to approach the pitch as the independent line is very bushy and very maze like (as shown in the photos).
1. Image from the 1921 MCSA Journal showing the approximate lines for some of the saddle routes.
2. Save yourself the hassle and approach via the Ledges path.
3. From the ledges path just before the large roof, move right along the gold marking to Polished Rock Pitch. The pitch marked by the white arrow formed the original route but is now claimed by Chockstone Gully.
4. Do not be fooled by the "official" grading of C, this would be in contention for the hardest C grade on Table Mountain, the first recess is ~C+ and the second E1 / 11 by modern standards.
5. Byron leading, at the first recess
6. The stance, just below Springs.
Via Ledges-Silverstream Traverse: Follow the description for Ledges up until the two dassie crawl images in the slideshow (slides 17/18).
7. At the dassie crawl, turn around to face the overhang in this image. This is the level of the Ledges-Silverstream Traverse, follow until you reach the start of Springs, which is a large recess before a big overhang.
8. Beneath the Springs overhang. The two routes converge here.
Face Pitch:
9. Continue along the traverse ledge, beyond the roof to the clearing.
10. Scramble up the blocks on the bottom right corner of the face.
11. Continuing too far will land you at the Jaws-Traverse shortcut to Traverse Face.
12. Looking up at the face. Generally take the easiest line but much variation is possible, moving diagonally across to the top left takes the cleanest line.
13. Another perspective of the face (From between images 9/10). Despite the low grade, the exposure can be quite terrifying and so roping it is advised for most.
14. The ledges become increasingly broad at the top, choose the easiest scrambles to top out.
Descent: The quickest way back to both starting locations is down Ledges and then Newlands Ravine / Saddle path, but the ledges downclimb should only be done by the experienced. Platteklip Gorge is recommended for Tafelberg Road, or Skeleton Gorge / Nursery Ravine back to Newlands but these are quite lengthy return routes.
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