Separation Buttress South West Diagonal

Route Description

Approach

The scrambling begins at the base of Victoria Ravine. The most natural and scenic approach is via the Pimple Traverse which is accessed by taking the vague path left at the base of the staples on the Llandudno Ravine (left-hand) watercourse at approximately 520m ASL and taking the upper / right hand path on the saddle where it splits in two. 

Scrambling

At the base of Victoria Ravine, approach the right shoulder of the rock band beneath the cliffs. Take one of many short scrambles (varying B to B+ / 3rd class) up onto the ledge and traverse out left to the clearing, alternatively climb directly up the front face to bypass the awkward ledge traverse (D+) - this should be roped.

Once off the ledge proceed several metres up the grassy slope hugging the cliffs to the right until you encounter the black rock. Avoid the awkward-looking step over and traverse left about 10 metres and ascend the pitch with initially generous holds but a rather awkward mantle top out on loose ground with poor holds (B+). Thereafter scramble up a 3m ledge just to the right of the top out (C), follow the narrow ledge left to an exposed corner, ascend several steep rock steps on your right until you encounter a small L-shaped chimney-like scramble (B) which you ascend. 

Several steps forward will land you on a narrow and somewhat loose ledge at the base of a rock face with numerous cracks. Do not traverse left - the exposure is extreme and the alternate scrambling no easier. The small bushy recess immediately right is the crux pitch. The horizontal cracks on the rock face are sufficient for the belayer to anchor in with cams (0.5 or smaller) however, there are inadequate spots to place passive protection. The overall simplest way to ascend the recess is to climb the cleaner rock just right and then step left into the loose gully - this verges on D grade for ±3 moves. Thereafter ascend another ~5m on loose but rather easy terrain to the next rock band to build an anchor.

Keep right against the side of the cliffs and ascend the sandy slope, climb a short but very awkward 2.5m ledge (C) being careful to avoid the blister bushes. Make the awkward step over in the corner to the right and follow the ledge for a couple of metres. Scramble up the steep & exposed break on the left for about 15m (B) to reveal a wide grassy slope. Take the easiest line across to the far corner of the buttress where you will shortly arrive on a terrace section with outstanding views. 

Scramble up the slippery lichen-covered chockstones wedged between the two boulders (B+) or alternatively walk around to the left and ascend the recess that tops out into a climber's friend (B). Walk into the corner where you will find a large crack in the roof directly above. Immediately step forward onto the sharp rock protrusion on the corner’s edge and step up the narrow but sturdy slab. A large crack obscured by a climber's friend growing out makes for a good foot placement to make the first move. Continue up this pitch and move out slightly right to top out above the roof crack that is now below you (C). 

Follow the obvious ledge towards a small cave, take great care on the final approach as it narrows significantly and is very exposed with some loose rock - a rope is recommended. Once in the cave it is advisable to remove bags for the awkward down-climb (B+). Follow this ledge as far as possible parallel to Victoria Gully, once at the end, down-climb a short scramble on a diagonal line (B). Once down you can cross the Vlakte about 400m to link up with the Apostle’s Path or alternatively take the relatively easy scrambles up to the top of the buttress.

Descent

Follow the Apostles Path South (right) which leads down Llandudno Ravine. Alternatively you can take a detour down Myburgh’s Waterfall Ravine which is closer to Separation Buttress but a longer overall return (But not in winter / after rain).