Springs - Table Mountain Climbing Guide

Approach Description:

As an alternative top pitch, this shares the approach of Saddle Face - much of it being in common with ledges. It can also be approached from either side of the Ledges-Silverstream traverse, bypassing the difficult Saddle Face “Polished Rock” pitch.

The route description & slideshow begins from the sign at the top of Newlands ravine. Any route reaching the saddle can be used to approach, but as a short route, it pairs well with a scramble approach such as Els Buttress or Els Ravine. The description for ledges can be followed until slide 10.

From the top of Newlands ravine, follow the path left of the sign that heads up to the Knife Edge above the saddle. The path is clear initially and occasionally cairned - you will encounter several rock steps but no scrambling. The path terminates at the top of the Knife Edge above Els Ravine, follow it toward the headwalls along a still obvious path until it veers right below the first rock band. Soon you will encounter a large overhang (“Sloping Block”) above you that is blocked by a very small & slanted rock band - take one of many easy scrambles to gain this rock band, turn left and follow the narrowing ledge, the route is well cairned. Once you shortly reach what seems to be a dead end corner, turn to face right and choose one of a number easy scrambles to reach the next ledge. Follow this narrow ledge for a short period until it gradually veers up left onto the wide bushy ledge. 

Follow this left for 20 metres where you will encounter the next short rock band containing the “Giant’s Step” scramble - it is currently covered with burnt Protea bushes but a short B/C grade alternative lies just a few metres right. Continue along the well marked ledges path for another ~60 metres and then take a very sharp turn right along a vague path just before the large overhang on the ledges path. Follow this path for a short distance to the 1st pitch (“Polished Rock”) right below the Springs top pitch.

The Polished Rock first pitch is officially rated at C grade but is severely underrated. The first chimney on the left must be climbed (C+) and then the ledge traversed to the bushy recess which requires a short but committing sequence of moves to gain (E1) - a small green (0.75) cam deep in front protects this move well. The top has excellent spots to anchor. Afterwards, a few easy scrambles lead to the base of the main Springs pitch.

Springs Route Description:

The main pitch consists of 3 short sections separated by 2 wide ledges. It is advisable to split the pitch in two, with one short pitch to the first ledge to bring up followers from the traverse & V groove. Gear placements are plentiful throughout the route.

The first ledge can be climbed directly (F3) or via the V-groove and a 2 metre traverse (~ E2 Aided / G free). Tall individuals can step up into the V-Groove via the rock pile beneath, else sling the spike above for a good hand hold. Upon the ledge, traverse left and climb a few metres to the first ledge (C+). 

Start from the left side of the ledge and then move to the the right to climb directly up to the next ledge (C+) which is even wider than the first. Climb the crack in the right corner, make an awkward and difficult move up & left across the slab to the large vine with an old sling, this requires committing to a handjam (E1). Then move to the chimney with the large peripheral chockstone, this can be awkwardly climbed inside (C) or outside (D+) to reach a grassy ledge. Follow this ledge left a few metres and climb through the gap in the climbers friends adjacent to a small pine tree. The three boulders immediately in front are all excellent natural anchors. Navigate a handful of easy scrambles to the Vlakte beneath Maclear’s Beacon.

Descent:

Left Face B and Platteklip gorge are safe options to descend to Tafelberg road, and Skeleton Gorge or Nursery Ravine to return to Newlands side. Experienced climbers (which should be the case for this route) can also descend down ledges which offers a far more direct descent.