Approach:
As an alternative top pitch, this shares the approach of Saddle Face - much of it being in common with ledges. It can also be approached from either side of the Ledges-Silverstream traverse, bypassing the difficult Saddle Face “Polished Rock” approach pitch (“C” officially, D+/E1 in reality)
The route description & slideshow begins from the sign at the top of Newlands ravine. Any route reaching the saddle can be used to approach, but as a short & unspectacular route, it pairs well with a scramble approach such as Els Buttress or Els Ravine. The description for ledges can be followed until slide 10.
Route Description:
From the top of Newlands ravine, follow the path left of the sign that heads up to the Knife Edge above the saddle. The path is clear initially and occasionally cairned - you will encounter several rock steps but no scrambling. The path terminates at the top of the Knife Edge above Els Ravine, follow it toward the headwalls along a still obvious path until it veers right below the first rock band. Soon you will encounter a large overhang (“Sloping Block”) above you that is blocked by a very small & slanted rock band - take one of many easy scrambles to gain this rock band, turn left and follow the narrowing ledge, the route is well cairned. Once you shortly reach what seems to be a dead end corner, turn to face right and choose one of a number easy scrambles to reach the next ledge. Follow this narrow ledge for a short period until it gradually veers up left onto the wide bushy ledge.
Follow this left for 20 metres where you will encounter the next short rock band containing the “Giant’s Step” scramble - it is currently covered with burnt protea bushes but a short C grade alternative lies just a few metres right. Continue along the well marked ledges path for another ~60 metres and then take a very sharp turn right along a vague path. Follow this path for a short distance to the 1st pitch (“Polished Rock”) right below the Springs top pitch.
The first pitch - known as “Polished Rock” - is officially rated at C grade but is severely sandbagged. The first chimney on the left must be climbed (D) and then the ledge traversed to the bushy recess which requires a committing move to begin (D+/E1), both climbing sections are covered in slippery moss & lichen. The top has excellent spots to anchor but the belayer must stance in a dense patch of climbers friends. Afterwards, a few easy scrambles lead to the base of the main Springs pitch. The main pitch consists of 3 short sections separated by 2 wide ledges. It is advisable to split the pitch in two, with one short pitch from the first ledge to bring up followers from the traverse & V groove. Gear & anchor placements are sufficient throughout the full top pitch.
In the absence of the step-up beacon, the first ledge must be climbed directly from the overhang (F3) or accessed the V-Shape groove and a 2 metre traverse (E2) - the V-groove can be accessed via aid climbing as a spike exists on the corner which can hold a sling or daisy chain. Upon the ledge, follow it out several metres and climb the break up about 6 metres to the first ledge (C+). Here the potential short 1st belay can be set up.
Start from the middle of the ledge and climb directly up to the next ledge (C+/D) which is even wider than the first. The third section of climbing is the most difficult vertical section; starting in the right corner where you must hand jam to gain a very steep face (D+/E1), the difficult section ends at a dead tree with an old sling wrapped around the base which can be used as a rudimentary hand hold. Follow relatively easy scrambling until a chimney with a large peripheral chockstone. The inside can be climbed inside (C) or the outside (D+) to reach a grassy ledge. Follow this ledge left 5 metres and climb up the spot lacking dense climbers friends. The boulder immediately in front has large undercut grooves and makes for an excellent anchor point. Once up top, navigate a handful of easy scrambles until the Vlakte beneath Maclear’s Beacon.
Descent:
Left Face B and Platteklip gorge are safe options to descend to Tafelberg road, and Skeleton Gorge or Nursery Ravine to return to Newlands side. Experienced climbers can also descend down ledges which offers a far more direct descent.
