Plumbing Repairs and Maintenance
This manual provides detailed steps, symptoms, and frequencies for regular maintenance and common plumbing repairs. Follow the guidelines to ensure efficient and timely handling of plumbing issues.
Note: When handling maintenance issues, it's best to take a video of the problem. This helps clearly identify the issue, making it easier and faster to resolve.
Leaky Faucets
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Annually inspect and replace worn washers and O-rings.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Dripping sound from the faucet
Visible water droplets even when the faucet is turned off
Increased water bills
Water stains around the sink area
Steps to Fix:
Turn off the Water Supply: Turn off the valves under the sink to stop water flow.
Disassemble the Faucet: Remove the handle and use a wrench to loosen the packing nut.
Inspect and Replace O-Rings and Washers: Check for wear and tear on the O-rings and washers. Replace them if necessary.
Reassemble the Faucet: Put all parts back together and tighten the packing nut.
Turn on the Water Supply: Test the faucet to ensure the leak is fixed.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Replacement O-rings and washers
Plumber's grease
Pliers
Common Costing:
Inspection and minor repairs: $75-$150
Washer and O-ring replacement: $10-$50
Full faucet repair: $100-$200
Professional plumber service: $150-$300
Leaky Pipes
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Annually inspect pipes for signs of wear or damage.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Water stains on ceilings or walls
Mold or mildew growth
Reduced water pressure
Damp spots on floors or carpets
Steps to Fix:
Turn off the Main Water Supply: Locate the main valve and shut off the water.
Locate the Leak: Identify the exact location of the leak.
Patch the Leak: Use a pipe repair clamp or epoxy putty for temporary fixes. For permanent repairs, replace the damaged section of the pipe.
Test the Repair: Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Pipe wrench
Pipe repair clamp
Epoxy putty
Pipe cutter
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Pliers
Flashlight
Common Costing:
Inspection and minor repairs: $100-$200
Temporary leak patch: $20-$50
Pipe section replacement: $150-$500
Professional plumber service: $200-$400
Clogged Toilets or Toilet Leaks
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Use enzyme-based drain cleaners monthly to prevent clogs.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Slow draining or standing water in the toilet bowl
Water leaking from the base of the toilet
Gurgling sounds when flushing
Steps to Fix:
Use a Plunger: Plunge the toilet to try to clear the clog.
Use a Toilet Auger: If plunging doesn't work, use an auger to break up the clog.
Check for Leaks: Inspect the base and tank for any visible leaks.
Replace Wax Ring: If the toilet leaks from the base, replace the wax ring seal.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Plunger
Toilet auger
Wrench
Replacement wax ring
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Cleaning supplies (gloves, disinfectant)
Bucket
Common Costing:
Clog removal (plunging or auger): $75-$150
Wax ring replacement: $50-$150
Leak inspection and repair: $100-$200
Professional plumber service: $150-$300
Clogged Shower Drains
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Monthly cleaning to prevent buildup.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Slow draining water
Water pooling around feet during a shower
Unpleasant odors from the drain
Steps to Fix:
Remove Drain Cover: Unscrew and remove the drain cover.
Clear Debris: Use a drain snake or a hair clog remover tool to remove debris.
Flush with Hot Water: Pour hot water down the drain to clear any remaining blockage.
Replace Drain Cover: Reinstall the drain cover.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Drain snake or hair clog remover tool
Bucket
Gloves
Hot water
Cleaning brush
Common Costing:
Drain inspection and cleaning: $75-$150
Clog removal: $100-$200
Professional plumber service: $150-$300
Clogged Kitchen or Bathroom Sink Drains
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Monthly cleaning to prevent buildup.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Slow draining water
Gurgling noises from the drain
Unpleasant odors
Steps to Fix:
Use a Plunger: Attempt to dislodge the clog using a plunger.
Use a Drain Snake: If plunging fails, use a drain snake to clear the blockage.
Clean the P-Trap: Remove and clean the P-Trap under the sink.
Flush with Hot Water: Pour hot water down the drain to ensure it's clear.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Plunger
Drain snake
Bucket
Wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Gloves
Hot water
Common Costing:
Drain inspection and cleaning: $75-$150
Clog removal (plunger or snake): $100-$200
P-trap cleaning: $75-$150
Professional plumber service: $150-$300
Malfunctioning Water Heater
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Annually inspect and flush the water heater.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
No hot water
Strange noises from the heater
Water leaking from the heater
Steps to Fix:
Check the Thermostat: Ensure the thermostat is set to the desired temperature.
Inspect for Leaks: Check the water heater for any visible leaks.
Flush the Heater: Drain the tank to remove sediment buildup.
Check Heating Elements: Inspect and replace faulty heating elements if necessary.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
HVAC Technician
Tools Required:
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Wrench
Bucket
Hose (for draining the tank)
Multimeter
Replacement heating elements
Common Costing:
Inspection and maintenance: $100-$200
Flushing the heater: $75-$150
Heating element replacement: $100-$300
Professional plumber service: $150-$400
How to Check Voltage and Electrical Supply to a Water Heater
Safety First:
Turn off the main breaker before removing any panel covers.
Use insulated tools and wear gloves if necessary.
Only proceed if you're familiar with handling electrical panels or have assistance from a qualified person.
Tools You’ll Need:
Digital multimeter or voltage tester
Flashlight
Screwdriver
Access to the breaker panel and water heater disconnect
Step-by-Step Instructions:
Check Breaker Panel
a. Open the main breaker panel.
b. Locate the breaker labeled for the water heater.
c. Make sure the breaker is ON. If it’s tripped (in the middle position), switch it OFF then ON again to reset it.
d. Using a multimeter, check for voltage on the wires feeding the water heater breaker:
Set the multimeter to AC voltage.
Test between both hot wires (should read ~240V).
Test between each hot wire and neutral (should read ~120V each).
If there is no voltage, the issue may be at the breaker, wiring, or upstream.
Check the Water Heater Disconnect Box
a. Locate the disconnect box next to the water heater (often mounted on the wall).
b. Open it and check if there's a pull-out fuse or breaker-style disconnect.
c. Ensure it is in the ON position.
d. Using your multimeter, test for voltage at the output terminals:
Between the two hot wires: ~240V
Between each hot and ground: ~120V
e. If there’s no voltage, the disconnect or wires from the panel could be bad.
3. Check Voltage at the Water Heater Terminals
a. Remove the water heater’s electrical access panel (usually near the top).
b. Carefully test the wires going into the water heater:
Between both hot wires: ~240V
Between each hot and ground: ~120V
c. If there is no voltage, power is not reaching the heater.
4. Check for Missing or Disconnected Wires
a. If no power is reaching the heater, there may be:
Missing copper (the wire may be cut or stolen in some areas).
Loose wire connections.
b. A break or disconnection in the run between panel and heater.
5. Check for Partial Power Issues (Optional but Important)
a. Plug a small device (like a phone charger) into outlets around the house.
b. If some outlets work and others don't, or some seem dim or weak:
There may be an issue where the house is only getting 120V instead of 240V.
This could be a problem from the power company. Call the utility provider to report it.
Lack of Hot Water
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Annually inspect and maintain the water heater.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Water not reaching the desired temperature
Inconsistent hot water supply
Steps to Fix:
Check the Thermostat: Ensure it is set correctly.
Inspect the Heating Elements: Check for functionality and replace if needed.
Check for Sediment Build-Up: Flush the water heater to remove any sediment.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
HVAC Technician
Tools Required:
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Wrench
Bucket
Hose (for draining the tank)
Multimeter
Replacement heating elements
Common Costing:
Inspection and maintenance: $100-$200
Flushing the heater: $75-$150
Heating element replacement: $100-$300
Professional plumber service: $150-$400
Other Water Leaks
Frequency:
Regular Maintenance: Regularly inspect for any signs of leaks.
Common Repair: As needed when symptoms are observed.
Symptoms:
Unexplained water puddles
Water stains on ceilings, walls, or floors
Mold or mildew growth
Steps to Fix:
Identify the Source: Trace the leak to its origin.
Turn off the Water Supply: Shut off the nearest valve or main water supply.
Repair or Replace: Patch small leaks with appropriate materials; replace damaged sections if necessary.
Test for Leaks: Turn the water back on and check if the leak persists.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Pipe wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Pipe repair clamp or epoxy putty
Replacement pipes or fittings
Bucket
Flashlight
Common Costing:
Inspection and minor repairs: $100-$200
Leak patching: $50-$150
Pipe replacement: $150-$500
Professional plumber service: $150-$400
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance and Repair Manual
a. Descale the System
Frequency: Annually.
Procedure:
Turn Off the Power and Water Supply:
Switch off the power to the tankless water heater.
Close the water supply valves to the unit.
Prepare the Descaling Solution:
Follow the manufacturer's instructions to prepare the descaling solution.
Use a bucket to mix the solution if needed.
Connect the Pump and Hoses:
Connect one end of a hose to the water heater's cold water isolation valve and the other end to a submersible pump placed in the bucket.
Connect another hose from the hot water isolation valve to the bucket.
Run the Pump:
Turn on the pump to circulate the descaling solution through the water heater.
Allow the solution to run through the system for the time specified by the manufacturer, typically 45 minutes to an hour.
Rinse the System:
After descaling, turn off the pump and dispose of the used solution.
Refill the bucket with clean water and run the pump again to flush out any remaining descaling solution from the water heater.
Restore Power and Water Supply:
Disconnect the hoses and remove the pump.
Open the water supply valves and turn the power back on to the unit.
Check for proper operation and leaks.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
HVAC Technician
Tools Required:
Submersible pump
Hoses
Bucket
Descaling solution
Wrench
Common Costing:
Descaling solution and materials: $30-$50
Professional descaling service: $150-$300
b. Check the Air Filter
Frequency: Annually.
Procedure:
Turn Off the Power:
Ensure the water heater is powered off to prevent accidental electric shock.
Locate the Air Filter:
Refer to the manufacturer's manual to locate the air filter on your specific model.
Remove the Air Filter:
Carefully remove the air filter from the unit.
Clean or Replace the Air Filter:
If the filter is washable, clean it with water and mild soap. Allow it to dry completely before reinstalling.
If the filter is not washable or is damaged, replace it with a new one as specified by the manufacturer.
Reinstall the Air Filter:
Place the cleaned or new filter back into the unit.
Ensure it is securely in place.
Restore Power:
Turn the power back on to the water heater and check for proper operation.
Person Responsible:
Homeowner
Handyman
Tools Required:
Screwdrivers (if needed to remove the air filter cover)
Replacement air filter (if needed)
Mild soap and water
Common Costing:
Replacement air filter: $10-$30
Professional service: $50-$100
c. Resetting the System
Symptom: No hot water.
Solution:
Check the Reset Button:
Locate the reset button on the water heater, typically near the control panel.
Press the Reset Button:
Press and hold the reset button for a few seconds.
Release the button, wait to see if the unit resets, and start heating water again.
Power Cycle the Unit:
If the reset button does not resolve the issue, turn off the unit's power at the circuit breaker.
Wait for a few minutes, then turn the power back on.
Check if the water heater is functioning properly.
Person Responsible:
Homeowner
Handyman
Tools Required:
None
Common Costing:
Homeowner: No cost (DIY)
Handyman service: $50-$100
d. Fixing a Water Leak
Symptom: Water leaking from the unit.
Solution:
Turn Off the Power and Water Supply:
Switch off the power to the water heater to prevent electric shock.
Close the water supply valves to stop the water flow.
Identify the Source of the Leak:
Inspect the unit carefully to determine where the leak is coming from.
Tighten Fittings:
If the leak is coming from a loose fitting or connection, use a wrench to tighten the fittings securely.
Replace Faulty Components:
If the leak is due to a faulty component such as a valve or gasket, refer to the manufacturer's manual for the correct replacement part.
Follow the instructions to replace the damaged component.
Test for Leaks:
Open the water supply valves and turn the power back on.
Check for any remaining leaks and ensure the unit is operating correctly.
Plumber
HVAC Technician
Wrench
Replacement parts (valve or gasket)
Screwdrivers (if needed)
Replacement parts: $10-$50
Professional leak repair service: $100-$250
Tanked Water Heater Maintenance and Repair Manual
a. Flush the Tank
Frequency: Annually.
Procedure:
Turn Off the Power and Water Supply:
For electric water heaters, turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
For gas water heaters, turn the thermostat to the "pilot" setting.
Turn off the cold water supply to the water heater.
Attach a Hose to the Drain Valve:
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve located near the bottom of the tank.
Run the other end of the hose to a floor drain or outside area where the hot water can safely drain.
Open the Drain Valve:
Open the drain valve and allow the water to flow out of the tank.
Be cautious, as the water will be hot. You can open a hot water faucet in the house to help the water drain more quickly and to prevent a vacuum.
Flush the Tank:
Once the tank is empty, briefly turn on the cold water supply to flush out any remaining sediment.
Let the water run until it runs clear.
Close the Drain Valve:
Close the drain valve and remove the hose.
Turn the cold water supply back on to refill the tank.
Restore Power and Check for Leaks:
For electric heaters, turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
For gas heaters, set the thermostat back to the desired temperature setting.
Check for any leaks around the drain valve.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Garden hose
Wrench
Bucket (optional for catching initial water)
Common Costing:
Flushing materials: $10-$20
Professional service: $100-$200
b. Inspect the Anode Rod
Frequency: Annually.
Procedure:
Turn Off the Power and Water Supply:
Turn off the water heater's power at the circuit breaker or set the gas control to the "pilot" setting.
Turn off the cold water supply to the heater.
Locate the Anode Rod:
The anode rod is typically located on the top of the water heater and may be accessed by removing a hex head bolt.
Remove the Anode Rod:
Use a socket wrench to unscrew and remove the anode rod from the tank.
Be prepared for some water to escape from the opening.
Inspect the Anode Rod:
Check the anode rod for signs of significant corrosion or wear.
If more than 50% of the rod is corroded, it should be replaced.
Replace or Reinstall the Anode Rod:
If the anode rod is in good condition, reinstall it by screwing it back into place.
If it needs to be replaced, install a new anode rod and tighten it securely.
Restore Power and Water Supply:
Turn the cold water supply back on.
For electric heaters, turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
For gas heaters, set the thermostat back to the desired temperature setting.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Socket wrench
Replacement anode rod (if needed)
Common Costing:
Anode rod: $20-$50
Professional service: $100-$200
c. Replace the Heating Element
Symptom: No hot water.
Solution:
Turn Off the Power and Water Supply:
Turn off the power to the water heater at the circuit breaker.
Turn off the cold water supply to the heater.
Drain the Tank:
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run the hose to a safe drainage location.
Open the drain valve and a hot water faucet to allow the tank to drain completely.
Remove the Heating Element:
Access the heating element by removing the cover panel and insulation.
Use an element wrench to unscrew and remove the faulty heating element from the tank.
Install the New Heating Element:
Insert the new heating element into the tank and tighten it securely with the element wrench.
Reattach the wires to the new element.
Refill the Tank and Restore Power:
Close the drain valve and remove the hose.
Turn the cold water supply back on to refill the tank.
For electric heaters, turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
For gas heaters, set the thermostat back to the desired temperature setting.
Check for Proper Operation:
Allow the tank to refill completely and check for any leaks around the new heating element.
Test the water temperature to ensure the new element is functioning correctly.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Electrician
Tools Required:
Garden hose
Element wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Replacement heating element
Common Costing:
Heating element: $20-$50
Professional service: $150-$300
d. Fix a Leaking Pressure Relief Valve
Symptom: Water leaking from the valve.
Solution:
Turn Off the Power and Water Supply:
Turn off the water heater's power at the circuit breaker or set the gas control to the "pilot" setting.
Turn off the cold water supply to the heater.
Drain Some Water from the Tank:
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and open it slightly to drain a few gallons of water. This will reduce the pressure in the tank.
Inspect the Pressure Relief Valve:
The valve is located on the top or side of the tank, and a discharge pipe runs down.
Check if the valve is loose or faulty.
Tighten or Replace the Valve:
If the valve is loose, use a wrench to tighten it securely.
If the valve is faulty, replace it by unscrewing the old valve and installing a new one. Use the plumber's tape on the new valve's threads to ensure a good seal.
Restore Power and Water Supply:
Close the drain valve and remove the hose.
Turn the cold water supply back on.
For electric heaters, turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
For gas heaters, set the thermostat back to the desired temperature setting.
Check for Leaks and Proper Operation:
Check the new pressure relief valve and surrounding area for any leaks.
Ensure the valve operates correctly by manually lifting the lever to release some water and then letting it snap back into place.
Person Responsible:
Plumber
Handyman
Tools Required:
Garden hose
Wrench
Replacement pressure relief valve
Plumber's tape
Common Costing:
Pressure relief valve: $15-$30
Professional service: $100-$200
BURST PIPE REPAIR USING SHARKBITE
With SharkBitePlumbing Max couplings, you can make a secure, watertight repair quickly and easily, restoring your water flow in no time —no special tools or soldering required!
Smart Plumbing Trick: The Pipe With a Hole Technique
Setup: A short section of pipe with a small inspection hole (or sometimes a clear piece of tubing) is added between the drain line and the cleaning tool (such as a drain snake or hydro-jet hose).
Function: As the clog is being worked on, the technician can observe through this section whether the water and debris are starting to flow.
Confirmation: Once the water starts moving freely and no more debris comes through the hole, it’s clear that the blockage has been broken up and flushed out.
TURNING ON/OFF THE WATER METER
IMPORTANT !!!
After you turn off the water at the meter, MAKE SURE the meter is not still "spinning". If it is, we may have a leak! You are to call the Misty to report this immediately. If you cannot get in touch with her, call the water company first, and then notify Andrea and/or Jeff.
You also need to also check the meter when they turn the water ON, for the same reason.
PIPE WRENCH AS WATER METER KEY
Every pipe wrench if you take out the teeth and the adjuster is also a little water meter key, so you can use it to turn the water meter on and off.
Turning on/off water meter using Meter Key
This video will show how to turn on or off the water valve using water meter key.
Turning on/off the water meter using Channel Lock
This video demonstrates how she used a different tool (channel lock) instead of a meter key when the valve was turned a different way than is normal.
Turning on/off the using other tools than meter key
This video demonstrates how she used a different tool that you might have at home instead of a meter key .