RADON MITIGATION SYSTEMS
RADON MITIGATION SYSTEMS
RADON MITIGATION SYSTEMS
Radon mitigation is any process or system used to reduce radon concentrations in buildings. The goal of the radon mitigation system is to reduce the indoor radon level as low as reasonably achievable. All systems should reduce radon below the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L (picocuries of radon per liter of air). A quality radon mitigation system may reduce year-round levels to below 2 pCi/L.
A home's foundation type helps determine the radon mitigation system that will work best. A licensed radon mitigation professional should determine the type of mitigation system to install and may conduct some diagnostic testing to help guide where to place the mitigation system.
Radon mitigation systems use a fan to continuously pull air from the soil and vent it outdoors through a pipe that ends above the edge of the roof. The pipe can either run inside or outside the home and vents outside, away from windows and openings. In addition, cracks and openings in the foundation are sealed. Sealing limits the flow of radon and makes the radon mitigation system more efficient.
The PBS series "Ask this Old House" visited a home in Minneapolis to install a radon mitigation system. The episode covers how radon systems are properly designed and installed. This video gives the viewer a good sense of what to expect from a radon mitigation professional and radon mitigation system.
THREE OF THE MOST COMMON TYPES OF RADON MITIGATION SYSTEMS
Sub-slab suction - Pulls radon directly beneath the home's foundation and vents it outside.
Drain tile suction - Pipe penetrates into the drain tile and vents the soil gases outside. Covers are placed on the sump baskets.
Sub-membrane - Used in crawl spaces, a plastic sheet covers exposed dirt on the floor, extends up onto the wall and is sealed. A radon pipe penetrates the plastic sheeting, pulls the soil gas from the crawl space, and vents it outside.
RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS
Radon fan is located in an unconditioned space, like an attic, garage, or outside to prevent radon leaking back into the home. The fan cannot be in or below a livable space. The fan is plugged into an electrical junction box or hard wired.
U-tube manometer is a device that visually indicates if the fan is working.
Radon system tag is placed on the system by a licensed radon professional once the system is complete and includes the installer name, phone number, install date and license number.
Active notification monitor alarms if the fan is not working properly.
Suction pit is dug below the basement floor where the radon pipe pulls radon directly beneath the home’s foundation and vents it outside.
Radon pipe is a PVC pipe that vents radon outside. It must be at least 10 feet above ground, 10 feet away from windows, openings, doors, openings to adjacent buildings (if the exhaust pipe(s) does not vent at least 2 feet above these openings), and above the edge of the roof.
COST OF A RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM
The cost can depend on many factors including the type of radon system to be installed and how your home was built. In general, costs can range from $1,500 to $3000. Financial assistance may be available to help pay for a radon mitigation system and depends on household income, geographic location, and funding availability.
FINDING A PROFESSIONAL TO INSTALL A RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM
Minnesota requires radon mitigation professionals to be licensed.
10 STEP GUIDE TO THE RADON MITIGATION PROCESS
Before mitigation
1. Radon test reveals the home has a radon problem.
2. Contact licensed radon mitigation professionals to request bids.
3. Professional does a walk-through of the home to layout how to build the mitigation system.
4. Review key questions with professional and request a proposal.
5. Review bids and select a professional.
During mitigation
6. Professional may perform diagnostic testing to ensure the proper fan size and correct installation.
7. Professional seals cracks and openings in the basement.
8. Professional installs the radon mitigation system.
Post mitigation
9. Professional provides a full explanation of how the system operates to the homeowner.
10. Retest the home to ensure the system has reduced radon levels.
OTHER KEY FEATURES OF A RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM
Radon reduction systems must be clearly labeled. This will avoid accidental changes to the system which could disrupt its function.
A post-mitigation radon test should be done. Wait at least 24 hours after your new system has been operating to do this.
Written operating and maintenance instructions and copies of any warranties should be provided.
Most radon mitigation system installations require electrical work to power the radon fan which requires an electrical permit. If a contractor is doing the work, the person must be licensed. For questions regarding electrical permits, licensing, or inspection, contact the Department of Labor and Industry at dli.electricity@state.mn.us or 651-284-5026.
INSPECTION OF YOUR RADON MITIGATION SYSTEM
Contact MDH to request a free inspection of your radon mitigation system, if installed after June 2020.
Email: health.indoorair@state.mn.us or by phone at 651-201-4601
TYPES OF RADON MITIGATION SYSTEMS
The basic concept of radon mitigation is to reduce the levels of radon gas within a structure. There are a few approaches to radon mitigation, but one approach far surpasses the others in terms of overall cost, effectiveness, and addressing the radon issue before it enters the structure in the first place. This concept is known as active soil depressurization. Active soil depressurization is the idea that by sealing the slab and creating a vacuum underneath the basement floor, one can use a special radon mitigation fan to create negative pressure throughout the sub-soil and ultimately draw the soil gas from beneath the home or building to safely vent it above the roofline. This method is preferred because it stops the radon before it enters the home and decays into what is known as radon prodigy. The radon decay products are especially harmful because they stick to particles in the air and are ultimately ingested into the lungs. Therefore, by utilizing active soil depressurization, one can redirect the vast majority of the radon before it enters the home in higher concentrations and ultimately decays into cancer causing alpha particles.
TYPES OF ACTIVE SOIL DEPRESSURIZATION
Sub-slab Depressurization Systems
Sub-slab depressurization is an extremely common way of installing a radon mitigation system. A sub-slab depressurization system is a type of active soil depressurization system that requires the radon technician to dig what is known as a suction point or collection pit under the slab. Many newer homes have sump pump systems and drain-tile systems that allow for increased field extension under the slab of the home. However, when homes are older, or if they do not have a drain-tile system, the radon mitigation technician will have to dig a pit under the slab to help create a means for good airflow under the sealed floor. The specialized radon fans then pull air through the soil surrounding the collection point and ultimately soil gases and moisture are reduced. Interestingly enough, because the fan is constantly running and radon fans remove a lot of moisture from beneath the slab, the radon mitigation system will dry out the sub-soil and create cracks and crevices in the sub-slab material that will drastically help in drawing the radon from areas further away from the collection point. Furthermore, radon mitigation systems in general, but particularly sub-slab depressurization systems, are many times used as moisture reduction systems because they help reduce moisture before it enters into the home as well.
Drain-tile Depressurization Systems
As eluded to earlier, drain-tile depressurization is an extremely successful way of creating active soil depressurization. Because the drain-tile piping is open to the soil and travels near the footing, all the way around the interior walls of the basement, one can utilize this system to pull air through the soil nearly everywhere under the basement slab. In addition, because radon gas always finds the path of least resistance, many times radon will fill the open voids of the drainage system because the soil around it is so tightly compact. Therefore, by utilizing this sub-slab drainage system as a means to collect and remediate radon, one can effectively reduce radon levels substantially.
Another way you can utilize drain-tile depressurization as a means of radon mitigation is through sump-pit depressurization. As you might see, the common theme in the radon mitigation process is to depressurize the slab. Radon technicians will sometimes use the sump pump pit as a collection point because it is directly connected to the drain-tile system, which will of course create phenomenal field extension throughout the sub-slab material.
The examples above are just a few of the common types of radon mitigation systems used today. To hear more about the dangers of radon gas exposure, to test your home, or to ask more questions about what type of radon mitigation system is right for your home, contact our courteous and certified staff today. We have been in business for more than 20 years, we mitigate thousands of homes annually, and we have never run into a situation where we weren't able to mitigate the property under the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L. When it comes to your health, your home and your family, why risk it?