IF A BUILDING PERMIT HAS BEEN PULLED ON THE HOUSE DO NOT HANG DRYWALL UNTIL YOU GET ROUGH-IN INSPECTION STICKERS FOR: HVAC, ELECTRIC, PLUMBING, FRAMING, & INSULATION. If you do not get these stickers in CoConstruct, the drywall will have to be removed so that inspections can take place.
We now order Drywall from Home Depot or Valley interior products because they deliver, bring in the materials, and set them up on the job site. If you are ordering from Home Depot, here is the link: Drywall
You can also tag the "Online Orders - Burr Oak Capital" in CoConstruct to request assistance in ordering it.
We do our drywall pricing by the sheet for both finish and hanging.
WE ALWAYS HAVE A MATTERPORT DONE BEFORE THE DRYWALL GOES UP.
Below is an example of a matterport in the "before" phase for Drywall. We have this matterport done before the drywall goes up to know what's behind the walls. Using these matterports, the electricians can easily find the electrical boxes even if they have been covered over by finished the drywall.
we suggest that you share these matterports with the electricians and plumbers so that they will not have to cut into your drywall to find their items.
You should use these Mark N Guard to help you figure out where they are when you're hanging drywall.
These tools help the drywallers from covering up the electrical boxes.
TO ORDER:
Tag Online Orders - Burr Oak Capital in Coconstruct
Watch the video below on how to use the Mark N Guard
Mark N Guard.MOVIf you are hanging drywall alone, and need to do a board on the ceiling, try using a "board mate". you can get these through ordering on amazon.
They act as a ledge to give you somethign to hold the board up with, while you screw it into the studs in the ceiling above your head
Here's a Guide to the Drywall Size https://www.thespruce.com/standard-drywall-sizes-and-thicknesses-1822827
GUIDE TO DRYWALL SIZES
4-Foot by 8-Foot Drywall
The most common size of drywall is 4 feet wide and 8 feet long.
The 4-foot by 8-foot size allows for either vertical or horizontal installation.
4-Foot by 12- or 16-Foot Drywall
For tall or long walls, drywall is available in lengths of 12 or 16 feet.
One advantage of these longer sheets is that you can create a smooth vertical surface to meet higher ceilings, creating a smooth surface that is completely unbroken from floor to ceiling.
2-Foot by 2-Foot Drywall
The 2-foot by 2-foot square of drywall is not a stock sheet size. However, cut-down pieces of drywall are often available at most home centers and especially at smaller local hardware stores. These small sheets can be useful for patching jobs or wall-boarding small nooks and alcoves.
1/4-Inch-Thick Drywall
Not a common thickness, 1/4-inch-thick drywall is used as a skimming (or double-wall) material for placing over an existing surface.
1/2-Inch-Thick Drywall
Half-inch drywall panels are the standard thickness for interior walls, as well as ceilings. These panels are easy to carry and hang.
Even easier to carry are ultra-light 1/2-inch panels, which are 13 pounds lighter than conventional 1/2-inch drywall.
5/8-Inch-Thick Drywall
These panels are commonly used for ceilings or for walls that require a prescribed fire-resistant rating.
When installed on ceilings, 5/8-inch-thick panels are less susceptible to sagging between the joists than 1/2-inch panels. Adding popcorn texture or another type of heavy surfacing material can add to the weight problem, making 5/8-inch drywall a better choice for ceilings.
Greenboard Drywall
Greenboard drywall is a type of drywall with a paper facing that has been treated with a waxy coating and chemicals that resist moisture and mildew. It is well suited for finishing walls in humid locations, but should be avoided for very wet locations, such as showers and tub surrounds.
Fire-Rated Type X or C Drywall
Fire-rated drywall is drywall that is thicker than standard sheets and which sometimes comes with extra additives to the gypsum core such as fiberglass. The purpose of fire-rated drywall is to slow the progress of fire to give inhabitants enough time to escape.
Fire-Rated Type X Drywall
Fireproof drywall is the common term; its industry name is Type X drywall. The thickness of this drywall is 5/8-inch, including all layers.
Glass fibers are added to the board to help it slow down the fire. Also, because it is denser than normal gypsum and paper drywall, it takes longer for the fire to degrade it.
Most Type X drywall has a one-hour fire rating. The fire rating for the 1/2-inch drywall used throughout the rest of the home is 30 minutes.
As an added benefit, Type X drywall absorbs sound slightly better and is slightly stronger than conventional 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch drywall.
We put the fire-rated drywall BENEATH the sheathing when we can.
There are several reasons why drywall is placed beneath the sheathing:
-Insulation: Drywall helps to insulate the interior of a building, reducing heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer.
-Soundproofing: Drywall helps to absorb and reduce noise from outside or from other rooms, making the interior of a building more peaceful and quiet.
-Aesthetics: Drywall provides a smooth, flat surface for painting or wallpapering, giving the interior of a building a finished look.
-Fire Resistance: Drywall is a fire-resistant material that helps to prevent the spread of fire and smoke within a building.
-Durability: Drywall is durable and resistant to damage from moisture and impacts, making it a practical choice for wall and ceiling surfaces in a building.
-Ease of Installation: Drywall is relatively easy to install, making it a cost-effective option for finishing the interior of a building.
This illustration shows why fire walls and smoke alarms are so important.
SWEEPING COMPOUND
Using a "sweeping compound” is really good for keeping the dust down. I could see spreading it on the floor BEFORE sanding on drywall starts, and then it will help you sweep up stuff with a broom, making things quicker and less dusty.
NAILER PLATE
The nail plate protects the water line from any screws or nails getting in it. It also protects electrical lines and HVAC. So you won't puncture your power, heating, or water line.
Here's the link to the article on Nail Protection Plate Mike Holt's Forum.
HELPFUL VIDEOS
Here's a video on Nail Plate Construction Tip
Here's a video on Protection Plates for Electrical and Plumbing
Helpful tools for Drywall
tools-dry wall.MOVProcess of Mudding
mudding.MOVDrywall on Steps
DRYWALL for stairs.mp4When we do metal corners
Anytime we do metal corners, we should always add fiber mesh to reinforce them
Drywall - metal corners.MOVtechnique for hanging drywall with one person.MOVDrywall finishing- How to install corner bead
This video shows how to install corner beads using rigid mud-set beads alomg with corner rollers.
how to install corner bead.MOVDRYWALL HANG: Hanging Drywall by yourself
This video shows a technique on how to hang drywall by yourself.
drywall hang.MOVDRYWALL OVER PLASTER
The Best Methods for Fantastic-Looking Walls
Over the years, plaster walls can become unattractive due to either discoloring or your basic wear and tear. Repairing your plastered walls can be quite expensive. Instead, save some money by covering them with drywall. They’ll look better, they’ll be stronger, and you’ll keep more cash in your pocket.
Make sure your plaster is properly secured
Because a sturdy substrate is required to attach drywall properly, it’s essential that you fasten any loose plaster to the wood lath strips. Make sure you use plaster screws to secure the plaster properly.
These screws have special fittings that eliminate the chance of the plaster cracking. If you see any crumbling plaster hanging from the lath, be sure to scrape it off. You’ll then want to use a piece of drywall to fill the empty space.
Gather the necessary tools
Once you know that the plaster attached to the wood lath is stabilized as much as it can be, you can then start adding a new drywall over the top of the plaster. To do this, you’ll need the following tools:
2-inch drywall screws
½ inch thick drywall boards (either 4-by-8 or 4-by-12 sheets)
5-gallon bucket of Joint compound
Pry bar
Liquid nails
Tape measure
Stud finder
Electric saw
Flat-head screwdriver
Pencil
Power drill accompanied with a Philip’s-head screwdriver bit
Remove the trim
Once you have gathered all the necessary tools, you can begin. You’ll want to start by removing all the window and door trim, the baseboards, and the crown molding. Use the flat end of the pry bar to get this done.
In addition to this, use the flat-head screwdriver to remove all the electrical outlets and light switch faceplates. Make sure you take your time when doing this, so you don’t break or crack any of the pieces.
Locate the studs behind the plaster wall
With the stud finder, locate the studs in the wall behind the plaster. Once you find a stud, use your pencil to mark it’s location. However, when you mark it, do it as close to the floor as you can get.
Do this for every stud in the wall you’re working on. Now, if the studs became exposed near the floor when you removed the baseboards, you won’t need to mark their location with a pencil. You can already see where they are.
You may also check this article to find the methods for locating studs without a stud finder.
Cut your panels
Measure and cut all your drywall sheets to size. You’ll need your tape measure and an electric saw to do this. It’s essential to measure and cut your drywall sheets right. This will prevent you from wasting unnecessary time, effort, and money.
You’ll now want to cut holes in drywall for electrical boxes and lights. There are several different tools you can use to accomplish this, including handsaws, jigsaws, and specialized saws. The main idea is to cut the sheets, so they properly fit around the edges of the doors, windows, and around the corners. Using a chalk line when making long cuts is very useful.
Once they are cut, you can use a drywall rasp to clean up the edges. When you put the panels up to attach them, a sharp knife works well to trim any edges that are too tight.
Keep in mind that you shouldn’t screw the drywall before trimming these parts. You need to check the fit before you press the drywall to the wall.
Attach your drywall over the plaster
Using a caulk gun, apply a generous amount of Liquid Nails to the surface onto the wall. When attaching sheets of drywall, always make sure you start at the top of the wall, and always install your drywall sheets horizontally. This is the most effective way to attach drywall over plaster.
Starting at the top of the wall, position the first sheet of drywall until it’s flush in the top upper corner. You may need a helping hand to do this, so if you have a friend or family member who can help you, it’ll be a much easier job.
Once you have positioned the sheet of drywall in the right location, fasten it into the studs with the 2-inch drywall screws. Make sure your screws are spaced out by 18-inch apart from one another and make sure you countersink every screw.
Next, attach your cut-to-size sheet of drywall at the bottom of the wall. After you have inserted your 2-inch drywall screws, see if there is a gap between the upper and lower drywall sheets. Typically there will be a gap between these two sheets.
Measure the space needed to be filled with the tape measure and cut a piece of drywall to fit in that gap. Make sure the edges of this piece in addition to the upper and lower sheets are all flush with each other.
Tape and mud all the holes, edges, and other blemishes
Now that you have all the drywall up, taping and mudding is the next task. With a quality compound, fill in all the holes and edges, tape all the edges and seams, and fix any other blemishes you happen to see. When taping flat seams between the wall panels, most professionals suggest using a fiberglass mesh tape.
Once you have applied the tape, fill in the joints with the compound you chose. It’s important to only apply a thin layer and softly sand between each layer you apply. Let your compound dry and then decorate your walls any way you choose. It’s your space, so get creative with it.
Examples of how we can expose ceiling joists
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT DRYWALL SANDER
WEN DW6394 Variable Speed 6.3-Amp Drywall Sander with Mid-Mounted Motor
This tool is available in Amazon-Tools list
Mid-mounted 6.3-amp motor minimizes the weight of the sanding head, making the sander easier to maneuver
Improved hole configuration maximizes dust collection for minimum cleanup (NOTE: only compatible with replacement sandpaper models DW80SP, DW120SP, and DW240SP)
Variable speed adjustment goes anywhere from 1000 to 2450 RPM
Hook-and-loop 8.5-inch base pad makes changing sandpaper easier than ever
Includes a 15-foot dust hose, six 9-inch sanding discs of assorted grits, and a two-year warranty
Note that these drywall sanders should be used with a dust extractor.
Please note that the dust extraction is different than a shop vac,on that it has a system in it to CLEAN the filter while the vacuum setting is turned on, which allows you to suck up a lot of dust without slowing down! It does this by vibrating the filter to keep dust from building up.
Vacmaster VDK611PF 0201 6-Gallon Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum with Filter Cleaning System
This tool is available in Amazon- Tool List.
[6 GALLON WET DRY SHOP VACUUM] This vacuum is equipped with 4.5 Peak HP and a 6-gallon* polypropylene tank. The compact design and powerful motor makes this vacuum great for jobsite or household clean up. Easily convert this vac into a blower to clean up your workspace or yard.
[USER ACTUATED FILTER CLEANING SYSTEM] The filter cleaning system improves airflow and maintains high level of suction during operation by preventing clogged filters. When the user notices a drop in suction, they follow a few simple steps to clean the filter without having to stop their job or remove the power head and filter.
Quality of Joints.MOVPaint marking.MOVPAINT MARKINGS
Lay down some marking paint at the studs before the wallboard installation.
Mark out water and outlets as well so they don't get buried in drywall
Process for patching drywall with a hot patch.MOVThis is a way to install electric boxes quickly, with a perfect cut.
how to fill large gaps in drywall.MOVDrywall repair for SMALL SECTION ONLY
Drywall repair for small section.MOVAdding dish soap to drywall compound can help to make the mud smoother and easier to spread, and it can also help to prevent bubbles from forming. However, it is important to use the right amount of dish soap, as too much can make the mud too runny.
All you need is 2 plastic soda cups of it for each 4.5 gallon bucket .
You can use this dish soap: Dawn dish soap from Home depot
Drywall Finishing Tip - adding Sunlight Soap
Here's how
1. Create a Smooth Coating on the Wall:
Adding a small amount of dish soap to drywall mud creates a smooth coating on the wall that minimizes imperfections and bubbles. This helps prevent unevenness when applying the drywall mud and improves its appearance overall.
2. Reduces Bubbling and Pock Marks of Drywall Mud:
Dish soap in drywall mud reduces bubbling and pock marks in walls due to its ability to reduce surface tension between the wall surface and mudding compound, allowing for a smoother application that produces.
3. Makes Sanding Easier When Dry:
Put some dish soap in your drywall mud, and you’ll get an even softer texture for sanding. This means less time spent taking care of any bumps or lumps after it has dried, as they won’t be nearly as noticeable from the beginning.
4. Reduces Shrinkage of Drywall Mud:
When mixed with dish soap, drywall mud will shrink less when drying compared to traditional mudding alone,This is because the soapy water mix acts like an adhesive that eliminates any air pockets when applied correctly and thus prevents any unnecessary shrinking or cracking once dried up completely.
5. Amount of soap;
Used quote of a tea cup for each bucket of 4.5g mixed good until everything turns into same the same color.
Here are some of the benefits of adding dish soap to drywall compound:
Makes the mud smoother and easier to spread
Prevents bubbles from forming
Makes the mud more flexible
Helps the mud to dry more evenly
However, there are also some potential drawbacks to adding dish soap to drywall compound:
Can make the mud too runny
Can cause the mud to dry more slowly
Can leave a soapy residue on the drywall
Overall, adding dish soap to drywall compound can be a helpful way to improve the finish of your drywall project. However, it is important to use the right amount of dish soap and to test the mud before using it on your project.
Here are some additional tips for adding dish soap to drywall compound:
Use a mild dish soap, such as Dawn or Joy.
Plaster repair in drywall refers to the process of fixing or restoring damaged or deteriorated plaster surfaces on drywall. Drywall, also known as gypsum board or wallboard, is a widely used building material for interior walls and ceilings. It consists of a core of gypsum plaster pressed between two thick sheets of paper. Over time, the plaster or joint compound used to cover seams and joints in drywall can become cracked, chipped, or otherwise damaged, leading to the need for repairs.
The process of plaster repair in drywall typically involves the following steps:
Assessing the damage: The first step is to identify the extent and nature of the damage, whether it is due to cracks, holes, or other issues.
Preparation: Clear the damaged area of any loose debris or old plaster that may interfere with the repair process. This may involve using a putty knife or sandpaper to smooth the surface.
Application of joint compound: Apply a suitable joint compound to fill in the damaged areas. Joint compound, also known as drywall mud, is a plaster-like substance used to seal joints and cover cracks in drywall.
Sanding: After the joint compound has dried, sand the repaired area to achieve a smooth and even surface. This step is crucial for achieving a seamless finish.
Priming and painting: Once the surface is smooth and even, apply a primer to ensure that the paint adheres properly. Finally, paint the repaired area to match the surrounding wall or ceiling.
It's important to note that while minor plaster repairs can be done by individuals with basic DIY skills, more extensive or complex repairs may require professional assistance. Additionally, the specific techniques and materials used for plaster repair may vary depending on the nature and severity of the damage.
Below video will show how to do plaster repair
Here's the summary of the process:
Open up the cracks with the back of a knife.
Secure the plaster to the lath by screwing holes along the crack.
Use washers to secure the plaster to the lath.
Once the adhesive has dried, remove the washers and apply a compound like Durabond or plaster.
Apply mesh paper to prevent future cracks.
Finish by filling and sanding the patched area, then prime and paint the wall.
Plaster repairPATCHING PLASTER
This video shows how to patch plaster around outlets using foam insulation, plaster weld for primer and basecoat plaster.
patching plaster.movMarking your materials
This video shows a technique on how to identify if someone stole in you drywall materials.
Marking your materials.mp4How deep the screws are set for drywall
This video shows why the deep of the screws are set right because if it's not deep enough you can't over it.
screw for drywall.mp4Useful tools for drywall
This video shows a useful tool when applying drywall called Lamps wool roller.
lamps wool roller.mp4CHECKING FINISHED DRYWALL
This video will show to technique on how to check the drywall finish on ceilings using flashlight.
Ceiling checking.mp4