Indigo Wool Suit

The amount of detail on the Caroline Charles indigo Cossack wool suit probably goes unnoticed for the most part, due to the matchy-match perfection of the stylized oak leaf appliqués down the front and back of the bodice. There are leg o’ mutton sleeves, a tiny little flounce of peplum at the waist accented by vents topped by self-fabric buttons, a notched jacket neckline peeping out below a typical pie crust blouse collar…all over a relatively plain, but full, A-line, riding skirt at calf length. The outfit is finished top and bottom with a modified Cossack shaped velvet hat and boots.

The hat features a molded appliqué spray at the front, and a smooth dome topped crown, and sits snugly on Diana’s hair. She went through a phase with this type of hat and had them in other colours in slightly different styles. The best accessory is the wooly black astrakhan muff, which hung from a lanyard around her neck. The earrings are large amethyst drops hanging off posts from a gold chain.

It was worn in March 1986 on a visit with Charles to Hull, in the northeast of England. I think I’ve only found the one replica, which is a surprise, since the suit featured on the cover of a Tim Graham Diana photo book. To make a good replica, wool wouldn’t be a good fabric, as the bulk would detract from the shape of the sleeves and the tiny peplum flounce.