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This 1980’s Zandra Rhodes white silk chiffon ballet length dinner dress is beaded with faux pearls, pink glass beads and a combination of silver and pearlised sequins, then cinched with a white satin sash. It achieved more than $41,400 in the Christie’s auction of Diana’s dresses, then later came to auction again more than fifteen years later for £48,000.
It's one of those odd formal/less-formal outfits, in that it's couture, not a ballgown shape, sumptuously contructed and embellished but not full-length. It's a bit too dressy for day, but not quite enough up to the full on evening gown level of elegance or formality.
It's very beautiful however you look at it, however it was a real pig to find someone to make a replica that didn't cost an arm and a leg. It's not my favourite gown, but I'm very happy with the copy Alana did for me (below middle). She got all the important elements of the design and style as well as the embellishment correct and present, and my most important criteria, can we tell what gown it should be is definitely there.
Here are three examples by (top) Sweet Creations, Alana Bennett, and an unknown eBay seller (Georgia?)
Initially, it wasn’t a gown copied very often as the combination of the hard to find accurate fabric, difficult pattern and tricky beading discouraged most replica makers until many collectors were nearing the end of their quest to have all the auction gowns. (Pssst...cotton lawn is probably your best bet; try looking at cannibalising older clothing items or drapery linings.) The fabric needs to be sheer, yet supple with enough weight to support beading and possibly embroidery if there's no luck finding something that has some floral accents.
As an outfit for the FM vinyl doll, I would love to see it include:
1. Dress
2. White shoes
3. White clutch bag
4. Pearl necklace
5. Pearl drop earrings