Yes sure, we can fix that up for you, I'll just ..
Check that it's not just a loose heel block...Rapid shanks are for when the existing shank is broken, bent or weak. Look for creases of the insole board on inside of shoes near front of heel block, and listen for crunchy sounds from broken shank when you wiggle and twist shoe while holding heel block.
So basically we are adding a metal plate under the insole and on top of the insole board, 4 little screws at the back from the inside, and 2 big screws towards the front from the outside. No need to remove old shank.
Notes - Mens shoes where the sole is snapped through.
- $120 Remove blocks and full sole then reattach blocks with same heels on.
- $139 Remove blocks and full sole then reattach blocks with new heels on.
- Lift insole
- Check fit of shank, note heel angle!
- Drill one heel front hole and put screw in
- Continue drilling and screwing back holes
- Screw front holes, from outside, snip and file
- Recover with foam and insole
PZ1 4 at Back
SQ 2 at Front
Main Points Expanded
- Lift the insole in the back of the shoe, use a wide flat screwdriver if you are having issue lifting the insole. Try to lift any foam with the top layer.
- Check that at least 3 of the back four screw holes in the shank are over the heel block, but not over any nails or screws. If you can’t get the shank back far enough to get the holes over the heel block, snap a bit off the back of the shank so that it sits a bit further back.(to snap off, put the back bit into the vice and wiggle the top bit, holding as close to the vice as practical. Then put the rapid shank onto the insole board, (Ensure the shoe is sitting properly, with the heel at the correct angle, before bending shank) and check to see if it has the right shape to it, if not, put it on the vice and hit it with a hammer. Avoid excessive bending as they are made of spring steel and will snap, either straight away or when the shoe is been worn. Now that the shank fits properly and the holes are in a good place.
- Drill one hole into the front of the block, using the shank to guide it. Then before drilling any more holes put a screw in and tighten to Torque setting 4.
- Next drill the hole diagonally across from the first, (keep shank central in shoe, so front screws don’t hit old shank) then put screw in and continue with the other 2.Check as you go that no screws are swelling the heel block.
- Drill 2 of front or middle holes from the inside of the shoe and then put screws from outside. Do them up tight. Cut them off with side cutters. Now loosen by half a turn. Check that the block now feels secure.
- Put a foam layer over the screw heads or a piece of leather if they are sharp to touch. If screws are too bumpy put a piece of leather over them that has 4 holes punched in where the screw heads are. So the heads sit in the holes in the leather. And finally glue the insole back in place.
Take your time and do each step well and it won’t take long or be difficult
Things to consider
- Don’t reuse little PZ1 screws, they get weak and heads snap off.
- Screw head sticking up? Try countersinking it with a 6mm drill bit. Else cover with leather with hole punched where screw head is.
- Weight needs to be applied as you drive the screws in, to ensure all the layers pull together snuggly.
- Remove any screws that have been added by other repairers in the past-where easy do so.