Mocassin, needs 4 times the distance of thread.

Stitching By Hand

Main Steps

  1. Thread needle and "knot"
  2. Secure thread at start
  3. Stitch
  4. Secure thread at end

Machine Thread

  1. Thread needle and "knot" by either
    1. a) Tie a knot in 1 end - suits delicate situations, top seams, inseams etc
    2. b) Tie the 2 ends together - suits stronger situations like attaching buttons
  2. Secure thread at start, by hiding the knot out of sight and so that it won’t rub the foot.
  3. Stitch
  4. Secure thread at end, by hiding the knot out of sight and so that it won’t rub the foot.
      1. On your last stitch, don’t pull it tight-leave a loop, then go through the loop 2 times and pull tight. You can put a drop of atom onto the thread as you pull the last loop tight. JUST DONT DO IT ON SUEDE OR DELICATE MATERIALS.

Braided Thread

  1. Thread needle and "knot"
    1. Cut thread on an angle so it is easy to poke through the needle
    2. Melt the thread end to stop it coming out of what you are stitching
  1. Secure thread at start
  2. Start the stitching away from stress areas, you don’t want to start next to straps etc.
    1. Sometimes a knot is fine, but generally it is ugly, uncomfy and comes undone unless you leave long ends! So here’s a couple of other ways
    2. Melt-trim to 4mm and melt with soldering iron, while still soft press with screwdriver handle to flatten. Try to have this end on the side of the sole as opposed to on the top of a sandal where the
    3. person has to stand on it.
    4. Glue-Glue thread in place at start, hidden away from where people would naturally look in a seam
  1. Stitch
  2. Use Sail Makers Palm to make it easier to push through tough stuff.
  3. Secure thread at end

End the stitching away from stress areas, you don’t want to end next to straps etc.

Glue- as you do the last stitch put a drop of atom onto the thread so that once you pull tight the glued part will be in the layers of leather or in the sole.

Hide it- poke the end back thru the middle of the layers you just stitched together, as long as it is a tight fit it will stay there. Pull it extra tight then put atom onto the thread and let the thread slide back into the leatherwith the glue on it, trim it off and you are done!

Speedy Stitches (Awl)

  1. Poke needle right through item to be stitched then pull it back 5mm, it should leave a loop, poke a screwdriver through the loop and withdraw the needle completely, pull thread through with the screwdriver until you have just one piece of thread, now you are ready to start stitching.
  2. Push Awl right through for your next stitch and pulling back by 5mm
  3. Instead of poking a screwdriver through this time poke the end of the thread through. If there are two loops forming this time when you pull the needle back, you need the loop on the side of the needle that’s got the least groove.
  4. To tie off poke the awl thru and poke a screw driver thru the thread loop so that when you with draw the awl the thread stays on the other side. Pull 10cm of thread thru and cut off from awl and tie knot.

Stitching with Stitcher


Let tension off slightly to stop bottom thread from pulling up to the top

Select a long stitch length and a high foot action pic

To cut threads, pull both to the out side of the shoe if in a tricky place like

the toe, and trim. This way you don’t have to reach inside the shoe with

the snips.

Start and stop stitching at a point of least stress – otherwise it will come


Generally go back 3 stitches at the start and finish, unless you have gone

right around and back over your first row, or if you are doing more of a

“look good” repair, ie top stitching in a visible area.

Stitcher Layout

Bobbin Layout

Those other 2 gaps in the background of bobbin shot are little random parking

spaces for when using green, yellow and other red etc.

Thread Layout



Ligthish browney greyey

Dk brown



mid brown




110cm for mt stand up belt

Misc Stitching Repairs

Pull Loops, Pull tabs

For mens work boots

  1. Cut 14cm of webbing or leather strap
  2. Fold in half
  3. Mark 4cm from fold
  4. Glue and slide in to mark
  5. Stitch