Misc, Buttons, Heel Blocks


Reattaching old buttons

Do your best to straighten out the back of the button so that you can get it to re-grip the

“tack” or the rivet. Put some atom in the button and push together. Try using a thin piece of

leather to bulk out the rivet bit and make it tighter if the hole is too big.

Sometimes you can stitch or glue the leathers that the button is holding so that the weight

is not on the button, only works if they don’t need to undo that button!

If the rivet has pulled out thru the upper you may need to pop a patch inside.

If it’s a “self covering” button you can pop it apart and straighten it out then glue it on using

atom and dust on the inside, then pop the top back on with a few smears of atom to make

sure it all stays put.

Glue a piece of suede to the back of the button with 999 or 1222, then stitch a piece of

suede to the boot, now glue the two bits of suede together with 1222.

New Buttons

Option 1: New buttons can be made with the ‘Self Covering Button kit’. Leather needs to be

about 0.5mm thick, or less. You can thin out a larger piece then you need by holding it on a

5mm precut buffalo and grinding it. Then cut out enough for the button, cut around a dye

bottle. Put the leather over the white button maker part, then push the curved bit of the

button in on top, then fold the leather into the middle and put the back on the button using

the blue bit. If you have trouble squeeze it with an “F” clamp, and hold the clamp in the vice

to make it easy.

Option 2: Punch 2 pieces of 3mm buffalo with the large (12mm) punch and then use the

1mm revolving punch to put two little holes into each for the thread or elastic. Sometimes

you’ll even get away with replacing the buttons with Rivets or Domes.

Buttons on Jeans

1. If the old one has left a messy hole you will have to patch it.

2. Poke the tack through from the back into the button, then tap it with the

hammer with the button on the last or vice


Reattaching heel blocks

1. Remove old nails and screws

Lift insole, (use screwdriver if necessary). Hold nails with pincers on outside and wriggle them back into

the shoe, and then pull them out from the inside with pincers or long nose pliers. If a nail is snapped off

in the heel block leave its head in the insole board, otherwise you may try to put a screw in there!

2. Glue down

Make sure the heel block fits nicely and that the angle is all good. Then glue it on (999? Or atom or

1222) Let set.

3. Re screw from inside and glue insole back in

Use existing nail holes for the screws, or drill more if these are unsuitable. Push firmly as you screw the

screws in to make sure the insole board and heel block and everything in between stay close together.

Make sure the heel block fits nicely, before you glue it

If the heel block is just loose, maybe you can just add some screws without pulling it all to pieces?

Once the new screws are in you may find you need to tap the old nails down.



If they are 60mm high and you are making them out of 6mm strong, it will take 11 or more layers! ... Like doing 11 pairs of heels ... $330! 1/2 a days work or more.

So 20 eva is better or heel blocks from footcom, either way it's an alteration not a repair ... hard work!


1. Snap heel block right off.

2. Remove the old tube

3. Clean up the break on the two halves of the heel, so that it sits

nicely together.

4. Drill into the block that is still attached to the shoe.

5. Check fit

6. Glue with araldite

1. Snap heel block right off.

You may need to unglue or cut the soling that may run up the front of the block

2. Remove the old tube

Take the bottom section, place it end down on the open jaws of a vice, but not

clamped in the vice, as this will damage the surface. With a hammer and using

a new tube as a punch, knock out the old tube, and then carry on until the new

tube is right through the top section.

If the tube has broken off in the top section of the heel, you will have to remove

it before you try to drill the hole deeper. To do this, you first screw in a

suitably size self tapping screw. The screw must protrude at least ¾ inch from

the base of the heel. Then heat with gas torch till the tube is loose enough to

pull out with pliers.

3. Clean up the break on the two halves of the heel, so that it sits nicely together.

4. Drill into the block that is still attached to the shoe.

Now drill into the heel block that is still attached to the shoe with a 4.5mm drill bit. Keep the angle the

same as it was and drill until you hit the shank or some screws! Hope you don’t drill right thru!

5. Check fit

Cut the tube to length with bolt cutters, better to cut it 3-4mm longer, as you can always grind it off later

6. Glue with Araldite

Make sure there is plenty of glue down the hole – but not so much that you end up

filling the tube! Hold it all together with cello tape, wrap a bit of tape around joint so

that not too much oozes out as araldite sets really hard and you will need to sand the

excess off tomorrow! Leave it till the next day to set.

All like New

Cracked Block

New Tube in/old tube out!