Insoles New Leather

Yes sure we can put some nice fresh new leather insoles in there for you ... probably use black as they look nice for longer and don't show up marks like the lighter colours do... we'll probably run them right to the toe so you don't have the join under your foot...

How close to the edge shall we go?

Main Points

1 Remove old left insole

2 Trace onto leather and cut out

3 Test fit and re trim if needed

4 Use new insole as pattern to make right insole

5 Glue left shoe then insole and slide in

6 Glue right shoe then insole and slide in

7 Polish, inspect and put on shelf.

Main Points Explained

1 Remove old

Be aware that if you stretch them they will not make such a good pattern

2 Trace onto new and cut out

1. Trace the left insole, onto the back of the new leather

2. Cut on the inside of your line

3. Try it for fit, if it needs adjusting, start at the heel and go clockwise around ensuring it is 100% as you go.

4. Trace and cut the right insole

If the old insoles are wrinkled, get the left one fitting 100%, and then you will be able to just tip it upside down and copy it, try it in the shoe first

3 Glue in with 999

1. Glue left and then right shoe

2. Glue left insole and slide in

3. Glue right insole and slide in

4. Check the edges! This is where you are least likely to glue, and where they are most likely to come apart!

Flip glue board between insoles so that you avoid getting glue onto the nice side of the insole

4 Polish, inspect and put on shelf

No I did not stutter,

Check the edges! This is where you are least likely to glue, and where they

are most likely to come apart!

Please make both insoles the same! Either shiny side up or suede side up.



Darker is better as it doesn’t stain from sweat as much as light colours

Type of leather

Smooth, but not high shine is best, it gives a bit of grip and looks nicer for longer than suede or patterned leather.

How far forward

¾ length is easier but won’t cover up marks under the toes. Full length is probably best for most situations but where possible keep it back from the edges by 2-4mm. Maybe check where the customers foot goes to, as you don’t want them to feel the edge.

How close to edge

2-4mm but there is plenty of exceptions. Consider where the customers foot ends, and what you are trying to cover.

Toe straps

Sometimes it is easy to undo the toe strap out of the sole or unpick it from the top. Then you can punch a hole and poke the strap thru.

Punch a hole that is a real tight fit to start with then try the insole to see how it fits in the shoe, then you can adjust the hole slightly in the direction that will make the insole fit better.

Insoles with stitching

Insoles we did on a new pair of Clarkes

The originals had a bad scratch on them.

We skived the outside 10mm all the way around the new insoles before stitching around, then gluing them in.

Insole boards

Insole boards

Designed to be installed with - the writing side down

- “cut thus” or shoe picture going lengthwise

Cut them out glue them in

If the old ones are bumpy and flakey, best to remove them

Shanks are best glues in, sometimes good to glue the shanks between 2 layers of insole board, with one

layer only going ½ way to the front

Insoles Kumfs Stitched

1. Restitch any straps that need it, or will need it in the near future

2. Trim and tidy any other threads, melts ends

3. Lay new insoles over stitching right to the edge

Benefits to customer

1. Clean and tidy to look at

2. More comfy as not standing on threads

3. Will last longer as foot won’t wear thru threads

4. Cheaper then re stitching entire shoe