Gussets Into Boots

Yes sure we can add gussets to your boots ... discuss price before drawing on boots

put them both on and we'll make a few measurements ...


  1. Do the left one first; pull the zip up till it starts to get tight. (a longer gusset is better than too short)
  2. Then measure down from the top of the boot to where the zip slider stops. Write this measurement down.
  3. Then measure the gap at the top of the zip with the boot pulled firmly around the leg. Write this measurement down.
  4. Then do the same for the right boot.

So you end up with 4 numbers, 2 heights and 2 widths

3/4 Zips

Yes we can do these. Need to cut where gusset will go so can measure.

Main Steps

Measuring as above

Once the customer has gone, check all your numbers and make sure they are clear, as you may not be doing them till tomorrow and you don’t want to rely on memory.

So type into the notes section, Height and Width for left and right.

use the longest height for both - but use the individual width measurements.

How wide for the Elastic?

.7 of the width of the gap you measured.


When a vee doesnt give enough width lower down

Stitch 2-3mm from edge, 3-4mm on suede

Doing the Gusset

Generally you want the Gusset on the inside of the leg behind the zip. For a boot with a zip do the gusset about ½ way between zip and back of boot.

For a boot with no zip, do the gusset ½ way along or 1/3 from the back.

For this example on a boot with a zip,

  1. At the top of the Boot measure ½ way between the zip and the back of the boot, and draw a line down the Boot the 10cm that we measured.

2. Now you have a line parrel to the zip, cut down this line.

3. Cut out a V of elastic, because the gap at top was 3cm (for the example) we need to allow for stretch so about 2.2cm of elastic showing will be good plus enough to go into seams, about 7mm either side (1.5cm) so the total will be 2.5 + 1.5 = 4cm.

4. Glue the elastic onto the upper of the boot, then glue the lining in, and stitch.

When there is already a gusset in the boot.

1. If it is the type that is just one split in the leather with elastic semi hidden behind. Remove old elastic and then cut down past the original cut till you get the depth you require.

2. If it is the type that is multi cuts with leather stitched onto the elastic. Cut down thru the elastic in the centremost cut till you get the depth you require (leave existing elastic in) add your new elastic and you are done.

3. Want to keep the existing gusset on the side? Consider putting the new gusset into the back seam.

Gussets - Riding Boots - Next to the Zip, at the back

Measure as per normal gussets

1. Cut a piece of elastic that is 25mm wider than the width of exposed gusset you want to end up with

2. Trace the zip edge shape onto the elastic and cut to this shape

3. Fold and glue 10mm on this shaped edge and then stitch 7mm in from edge

4. Unpick zip 3cm past bottom of gusset-towards back of boot

5. Glue onto zip and stitch Gusset in

6. Cover exposed zip top if needed. Make sure it lines up with other side on the boot

7. Glue onto boot and glue lining down. Stitch in.

8. If needed to, extend dome tabs with elastic