Taking Boots in at back seam - Boots with Zip
Yes sure we can take your boots in. Run through the MAIN steps real briefly with customer so they know that its a bit involved, then explain price
- If there is double stitching down back seam at the moment, we may only do one row or none.
- If there is a strap around top we may have to move it or adjust it
1. Boots on with the pants that will be worn.
2 Pinch seam together firmly and mark, in close, every 50mm down.
Just "allowing for jeans" is no where as good as measuring up with jeans!
Ensure you are keeping the seam at the back most point as you mark out If the boots are suede or material, instead of marking them with silver pen, measure at the top and then measure 10cm down and again at 15cm down, more measurements if you think it is necessary.
CHECK THAT YOU UNDERSTAND AND CAN DO THIS STEP!
1. Unpick and unfold TOP seam. A-B.
2. Cut lining
Unpick top seam only from A – B, as shown in the diagram above at back of boot.
3. Remove tape
Down back in a straight line, only as far as the “taking in” will go. Cut
the stitches in the lining for the last 75mm as you don’t want to get rid
of too much lining at the bottom, as there won’t be much overlap down
there. Use 2 clothes pegs to hold the lining out of the way –
if it is in the way!
4. Transfer marks from outside of boot to inside, left of seam.
Remove tape and unpick / unfold top seam. (Leave the top seam unfolded as it gets stitched while it is unfolded.) Cut any tape that is folded into top seam, in such a way that we can glue it back in later.
so that you can see the marks when you are stitching (best to take a bit less (3mm) out of boot, to allow for the leather that was pinched together). With the boot ‘inside out’ you want to be able to stitch from the top down the right side as you hold the boot on the machine, so consider which side you are marking on!
6. Cut open the excess, top on angle, then fold back and glue.
5. Stitch 6mm to right of your line.
Start stitching 15mm from top and stitch right up over the unfolded top seam, then stitch all the way down until you are on the original stitching near the bottom of the boot, for at least 4 stitches at the bottom, and back up 4 stitches in same holes.
7. Reglue tape then top seam
Make sure when you glue the tapes in with the back seam that they are nice and flat. (light tap on last if needed) make sure you glue the tape or string back into the top seam if there was any.
9.Stitch at top of boot.
Cut the excess off leaving 15mm so that we can fold it back. Glue the excess down. Turn in the right way and tap the back seam with a hammer on the last to make it sit nice.
8. Cut lining so it overlaps and glue
Cut lining so it overlaps by at least 10mm; don’t take any off the bottom 5cm otherwise you may not have enough to overlap. Glue and stitch lining in (only stitch lining to itself!) and restitch top seam. Glue the lining to itself not to the “boot”, try not to get all the overlaps on the back seam as it will get bulky. Overlap lining in such away so that you are not looking at the raw edge when you look into the boot. Make sure the lining is not too small, ie: it sits against the upper not smaller.
Gore Tex Boots
Gore Tex Boots, Zig Zag
Unlined Goretex boots.
Take your time Zig Zagging the top and it will look great. Note also the double row of top stitching down the back seam, which holds the tape on inside