This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #115
Walk into the Belmont Tavern, and the intoxicating smell of this dish—roasted chicken laced with garlic, herbs, and red wine vinegar—hits you immediately. We tried to get the recipe from several staffers but gave up after chef-owner Annette Wroblewski said, "If I tell you, then we'd have to kill you on your way out the door." We think our version is pretty close.
1 3–4-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
4 cloves garlic
1⁄3 cup finely grated pecorino
4 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 cup red wine vinegar
1. Heat oven to 500˚. Season chicken with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
2. In a small food processor, finely chop together garlic along with pecorino, 3 tbsp. of the olive oil, oregano, and thyme. Set herb paste aside.
3. Heat remaining 1 tbsp. of oil in a 12" cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook until golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Turn chicken pieces over with tongs. Using spoon, smear chicken skin with herb paste. Transfer skillet to oven and cook until well browned and cooked through, 20–25 minutes.
4. Remove skillet from oven; pour out fat. Add vinegar; spoon vinegar sauce over chicken. Transfer chicken to a platter and pour vinegar sauce over it.
SERVES 2 – 4
My Notes:
Make no mistake. This is a mere approximation of the Belmont Tavern's dish. But, unlike other chicken savoy recipes, its a fair attempt to crack the code.
Remember the Chicken Station. I used a 3 lb chicken and the parts were small. 4 lb would be better. It would just fit in the cast iron skillet, which is essential. Also I remember the Belmont Tavern serving a large portion with large pieces. I might only cut the next one into 4 - 2 boneless breasts and 2 leg/thigh pieces - and cook the wings for stock with the carcass.
The main problem was - as I remember that rich, piquant vinegar-flavored sauce at the Belmont Tavern - the instructions provided here leave a sauce texture that is too thin. And with regular cheap red wine vinegar, the flavor is not developed. I tried mixing Eden red wine vinegar (tastes like grapes) with a french one (tasted like wine) but I added 1/3 cup of good balsamic to make equal amounts for the one cup called for. Next time I might depend on a good flavorful balsamic. Remove the chicken, saute a shallot in a Tbsp of butter and then deglaze the pan with a half cup or more of chicken stock and reduce in half before adding the balsamic and reducing further to a richer, thicker sauce. And if it needs more oomph, sprinkle on vinegar at serving like on fish and chips. Come to think of it, Malt Vinegar may be just the ticket. Next time I might try using just plain white vinegar...