Wednesday 14th June 2017
Collected the car at 11.30, Ford Fiesta manual petrol. Start at 25448km. Left the airport at 13.15 after assembling the bike, placed in the car and drove through Catania and Acireale then Sant Antonio to Zafferana at 14.00. I called at the place I was staying at tonight and although I had access the building there was no one about at the entrance to the B&B on the third floor so back to the car and unloaded the bike. It was very warm – approx 30 degrees but decided to give Etna a bash now. It was past 15.00 when I started off up the road but decided to see how far I could go before dark. It’s a fairly easy but steady rise up on road SP92 in open country. I reached Livelli Cave not too far from the road junction (bivio) with the road coming up from Catania. Deciding I wouldn’t reach the top of the road at Sapienza take in the scenery then enjoy the slow descent, I decided to return back down to Zafferana and do Etna justice in the morning when I could enjoy it more. Cycled Etna 15.15 to 18.15. I booked in at the B&B then had a wander through the small town. For tea I finished the schnitzel that Ruth made and had a beer on the terrace overlooking the sea. Stayed at B&B Zaufanah Overnight, Via Monte San Michele 6 Terzo Piano Senza Ascensore Zafferana, Etna. Earlier in the day the drive to Acireale 18km 11 miles 1 hour. 9.00 – 10.00 drive 20km 13 miles 1 hour to Zafferanta and park at hotel. £35
Thursday 15th June 2017
Returned back to Etna road again and parked up higher as yesterday I didn’t have daylight hours to complete the remaining part of the climb. I could feel the heat. From where I parked it was only an hour to the top so yesterday had cycled 2/3 of the climb. It’s a bumpy road until meeting the road coming up from Catania where it was smooth as the Giro d’Italia were racing this two weeks before. There were many chalk markings on the road of the favoured riders. Cycle 18km 11 miles to Etna BIG 819 and return to Zafferanta 11.00 – 15.00. I stayed at the top for a while. I could see the walkway that ascends to Etna itself and nearby is the cablecar that goes up part way. At the top where coaches turn there is a pale red coloured restaurant where coach parties are dropped off or collected. Inside is a souvenir shop with food and drink samplings. Of course I didn’t miss the opportunity. There was chocolate, fudge, biscuits and liquors. From there it was back down the mountain slowly. I’d left the car part way up above Zaffarana. Driving 20km 13 miles Zafferanta to Acireale in an hour then 28km 17 miles to Taormina 1 hour, arriving 13.30 and parked the car at the start of the road to Castelmola close to Taormina Giardini elaborate railway station. I cycled on along the coast and found the road Via Luigi Pirandello for the correct way up to Castelmola. From 13.45 to 16.45 I cycled from Taormina to Castelmola and could really feel the heat. I stopped twice for long periods on the way up, the second time I felt dehydrated despite swallowing two litres of water on the way up. I thought the top was the castle above the straggle of houses but how wrong – it goes higher to reach Castelmola perched on the rock. I needed a gelato badly and enjoyed this from the view at the top at the end of the road by a hotel. There is great view from the terrace at the top and a few interesting cobbled streets. Cycle 8km to Castelmola BIG 818 (Spring Castle) and return 2 hours It was a little difficult to find my B&B. I parked the car at the first side road off Via Luigi Pirandello to the left then offloaded the bike to go and find the accommodation. I asked at a tourist office and was given a street map. Asking a policeman directing traffic he pointed to where I should go. Finding a hotel I asked in there and was directed straight to it with a request next time I was stay at their much better accommodation. He wasn’t kidding. My B&B wasn’t up to much. It was a small room behind a shop front on a busy road. I went back to the car having found my place then drove to the only place I could park – another hotel car park. The reception man there took my car key while I promised to return in 10 minutes after booking in for my overnight in Taormina at B&B Casarupilio, Via Dionisio n.S. £33. Back to the car then a huge problem finding a parking space but eventually did – in front of the very plush Hotel Villa Paradiso with a peaked cap car parking attendant from the hotel to watch over the cars! There was no indication in the other cars of permits so I risked it. There was no problem when I returned for it in the morning. I found somewhere good to eat a spaghetti carbonara at Trattoria Siciliana on Via Ospedale overlooking the coast and Corso Umberto main street.
Friday 16th June 2017
This morning I was out at 08.30 after a small breakfast on the roof of the B&B then walked the quiet street of Corso Umberto to the Greek Ampitheatre. The gate was open and I wandered past the ticket barrier as it wasn’t manned. There was no one else here as the place had not opened to the public yet this morning. I took plenty of photos with not a soul in sight. The place was well worth a visit. The front of the amphitheatre at the stage area below the seating was is the original Greek columns. Returning to the entrance after nearly an hour of sightseeing I had a shock – I was locked in! The tall metal gate was firmly padlocked. Fortunately there was still a way out. To the left was a low wall but not so low on the other side. I clambered on to the wall and carefully shinnied down the side into a hotel garden then casually walked to the entrance where another peaked cap man acknowledged me and wished me buon giorno. Breathing a sigh of relief I wandered back up Corso Umberto to the parked car guarded by the other peaked cap attendant of the Hotel Villa Paradiso who also wished me buon giorno. I decided to leave now before I got myself into trouble! I drove down to the coast from Taormina to Naxos then 24km 15 miles to Francavilla 1 hour at 10.00. I parked by the main church in the town, unloaded the bike and rode the cobbled streets. These are the type of cobbles where it calls for some care as they are approx 300cm square with sloping edges and laid diagonally along the road. It’s so easy to catch the wheel in a groove and come a cropper. I bought some fruit from a small shop then found the main road leading out; the road tarmac from this point at the bivio. From 10.30 to 13.00 I cycled 16km 10 miles to Sella Mandrazzi BIG 817 and return 13.15 to 14.00 on road SS185. From Francavilla the first 4km are easy, just a slight rise to reach a road junction. I took the right turn that sweeps down to the river bridge and following that the road begins to climb, gradual at first. I ate fruit at the bridge and gulped some water for the warm ride ahead. The climb itself is approx 10km as after the bridge it’s gradual. There are no places along the way to eat or drink. At one time there may have been something at Borgo Pietrapizzuta but these are now just empty shells of buildings. On the approach to them it looked like an army barracks.
There’s nothing at the top of the climb except a deserted building where cows were wandering in and out. There are views of Etna on the way up. From the top one hour back to the car then drove back up later and over to Capo d’Orlando. Drove Taormina to Capo d’Orlando via Novara 106 km 67 miles. I stopped at Novara for a while on the way to my next overnight on the north coast. The town is built around a white-grey rock and nearby is an impressive higher rocky stand alone outcrop. The valley down to Terme Vigliatore is interesting, marsh land as the coast is approached. I enjoyed the mountain descent but would have been more interesting on a bike. From Terme I stuck to the old road, SS113, rather than the autostrada. Patti was difficult to negotiate and Cap d’Orlando has a few roads from the SS113 leading down to the sprawling town. At the water’s edge is a large rock jutting out to sea. I think this is the equivalent of Land’s End – Cape of the land. I passed along the highway as I wanted to reach my accommodation in good time. Along the narrow street passing through Torrenova to reach Sant’Agata I now had to find my accommodation. It couldn’t be easier, I saw the red and white sign for Red Hotel by the road junction/bivio and followed the signs inland heading for the village of Iria; however Red Hotel is before that. A final turn to the left led up a steep narrow tarmac driveway to a large red house perched on the side of the hill; this is definitely a place to come back to. The accommodation is great – individual chalets scattered on the hillside above the red house. I booked in and led up the hill by the reception man on a motor scooter to mine called Salina. I even found it on Google Earth. I was in time for a short swim at 18.00 before mealtime at 20.00. The meal was served on the terrace overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. It was fantastic watching the sun go down from this vantage point. Two Overnights at Red Hotel Sant’Elia, C/da Orecchiazzi Snc, Sant Agata di Militello £59
Saturday 17th June 2017
After a fantastic breakfast I drove out to Capo d’Orlando and filled up with petrol for the first time, put in 20€. I needed some help to do it from the automatic pay machine that allocates the amount of petro to what is paid. 1. Put in a note or card and elect the amount. 2. Select the pump number. 3. Fill I drove away for 2km to just past a point where the road to Naso and on to my climb passes over the autostrada. There weren’t many places to park. I found a place and turned the car round for later. I stopped a while at Castell Umberto and had a coffee and on return I sopped again here for a Tennants beer at an outside bar. It took me 4.1/2 hours from 09.30 to 14.00 to cycle Capo d’Orlando to Portella dello Zoppo BIG 816 (Lame Hatch) then 1.1/2 hours down, 14.00 to 15.30. From Orlando to Castell Umberto is the steepest part of the climb, took me 1.1/2 hours. There’s no marker that indicates the top. Distance cycling is 50km 32 miles on road SS116. At the top I cycled past the wind turbines for 3km as it’s only a short rise following Floresta mountain village, and it wasn’t obvious where the top was so cycled over to the trattoria on the right, just past a road junction on the left. From Ucria to Floresta 12km. Drive back to Sant Agata 18km.12 miles following that back to the hotel and a swim and sunbathe – it was hot! Glad I stayed here two nights. The hotel is a bit far away from the main road though – half way up a mountain. Stay in Sant’ Agata overnight, 2nd night.
Sunday 18th June 2017
I drove a short distance to the coast road and passed through Sant’Agate on SS113 then SS289 and parked up just past a fly-over over the autostrada and turned the car round for the onward journey later. The steepest section was the climb to San Fratello. I was a bit disappointed in the heat to find that I’d only reached this point after 1.½ hours. Actually took from 09.30 to 13.30 then one hour down at 15.00 with ½ hour at the top I stopped at San Fratello on the way up for a gelato to cool down. Portella Femminina Morta BIG 815 (The Hatch of the Dead Women!) and return. 36km 23 miles 6 hours 09.00 – 15.00. Steeply up to San Fratello then from there not so steep. There are three short tunnels (145, 130 and 45 metre lengths). From there down a bit then up along hairpins through woods from a signposted restaurant on the right. Rain seemed to be on the way but it never happened, just overcast. At the top it rained for a few minutes. Brown height markers at the top, large car park but no buildings. It was cold coming down through the woods and here was the only time I needed my jacket. Returning to the car I drove 91km 59 miles to Campofelice, 2 hours 15.30 – 17.30. Cefalu on the way seems an interesting place to explore on a future visit. The town juts out to the sea and at the end of the land point is a large rock. I stayed overnight at Perla Del Mare, Via Lungomare del Mediterraneo 68, Campofelice £61 (dearest of the trip). I had some trouble here trying to find my way to the beach area for the accommodation on the other side of the railway line from the main road SS113. I was guided in by a friendly Italian couple who escorted me under the railway to the beach. From there I soon found the address. I booked in, the man not speaking a word of English but that was fun. We communicated by Google Translate. The way in was by electronic gate and the car was safely parked inside. Once booked in I changed to beachwear and went for a swim in the sea and a sunbathe on the crowded beach and relaxed with a Tennants beer from the loud noise beach bar. Here I stayed until the sun went down then went in search of the recommended restaurants from the owner of Perla del Mare. I ate a good pasta and half litre carafe of red wine for 12€ then wandered the beach front in the dark for a while and went to bed contented.
Monday 19th June 2017
Today was the most difficult climb of the tour, mainly because of the heat but the distance was also a factor. I’ve climbed higher at Etna but this one really took the stuffing out of me. I left the car parked at the guest house at the beach and I found my way (eventually) to the tunnel back under the railway to the main road. I didn’t realise there were two tunnels and I’d opted for the furthest one away! Because of this I had to backtrack along the main road then begin the climb up through Campofelice for the 36km 23 miles road SP9 then SP34 to Piano Battaglia Carbonara BIG 814 (Slow Battle with Spaghetti?) and return. 6 hours 10.00 – 16.00. Found out that a bivio is a road junction. It’s a meander through one way streets up through Campofelice then the climb starts in earnest on the quiet road leading to Callesano. This is a long straggly place. The houses are close together making it dark and gloomy. Above Callesano blacks (immigrants?) were ambling along and seemed to be centred on the two hotels up there – Park Hotel is one of them. Too hot to cycle the whole way up so at 17km turned back for the car and parked it just before Callesano. From this point I cycled up through the woods, mainly in the shade of trees which was helpful. I reached the point where the road to the top veers off to the left. From there it’s approx 3km to the brown signs but then the road goes up further for a kilometre, off to the right the top was reached at Rifugio Piero Merlino. After the usual pictures plus one of a cowbell suitably displayed and jangled by its owner I was on my way back down, passing the hotels before Callesano and the immigrants ambling along the road. Back to the car and I drive back to the coast road and continued west to Palermo 67km 42 miles 2 hours 17.00 – 19.00. On the way I stopped at Capo Grosso viewpoint and took photos of the coast both ways. I parked the car up 3km from Palermo centre and brought out the bike to find the booked accommodation. The traffic was hectic in the city so it was too dangerous to be looking for road names and concentrating on the road and unpredictable Italian drivers. I soon recognised a landmark I noticed on Google Earth that pin-pointed the road where I was staying. This is a tall black edifice commemorating the struggle against the Mafia. I called from the voicebox at the door and wheeled my bike in. I booked in then went back for the car. I was handed a key for the secure lock up at the rear of the building that was accessed by a side road. Back to the car then my heart was in my mouth as I negotiated the traffic into the city centre. The most difficult section was the roundabout around the Mafia monument. I edged forward very carefully and slowly as I needed to turn right off the roundabout and I was in the left lane! I squeezed through much to the annoyance of others with horns blazing. I settled in to the room then went out for a meal. I found a good place left of Via Cavour and south of Via Roma. Stay overnight at B&B Carella, Via Camillo denso Conte di Cavour 95, Borgo Vecchio, Palermo £30. 40€ with car parking and city tax. Good accommodation, generous breakfast. They speak English. Loads of coffee! Young man and girl run it, very helpful.
Tuesday 20th June 2017
I left the car parked at the secure lock up and they suggested I hold on to my keys until I depart later. I cycled along Via Roma and found the water fountain at the start of Via Pietro Bonanno and filled up my water bottles. The climb began for 9km 6 miles to Monte Pellegrino BIG 813 and over other side, total 16km 10 miles 2.5 hours 09.00 – 11.30. Found start of climb easily. It’s by a water fountain in by the side of a busy crossroads. The way up is over cobbled hairpins, 13 of them. It took me an hour to reach the church then another ½ hour to reach the radio masts. I went down the other side and came back up again. 09.30 to 10.30 up then to masts at 11.00, ½ hour down the other side then back up again to the monastery at 12.30 then back to Palermo and the car at 13.30. I had a shower back at the hotel. I had a look around the city n the early afternoon, bought a pair of sandals 20€ then back to the hotel for the car. I carefully backed out of the gateway on to the back street then away from Palermo at 15.30 and drove the coast road to Castellemare then on to Trapani. Driving Palermo to Trapani, 105km 63 miles 3 hours 09.00 – 12.00 with a stop halfway at Castellammare del Golfo (Castle of the Sea in the Gulf?). Stayed overnight at B&B Il Sole Blu, Via Orlandini 7, Trapani. Owner was out shopping but appeared shortly. Parked the car on road outside B&B. Evening meal was a fish, mussel and shellfish pasta – didn’t know what I was ordering! It was OK though, 12€ with a litre of water. Back to the B&B at 22.00
Wednesday 21st June 2017
Cycle from Trapani. This is a ride up to Erice town. Erice town tops the climb called Erice BIG 812 24km 16 miles, 2 hours 12.00 – 14.00. A look around Erice and the coast at Trapani. Took me ½ an hour to find somewhere to park on the lower slope to Erice then to the start of the road SP21 to the top. It starts next to the cablecar lower station. The actual climb took from 09.00 to 10.30. I stayed up there until 12.15 and had a spaghetti carbonara in the main piazza, the café run by a controller who doubled as a waiter. He was good humoured though. He told me not to add parmesan to my spaghetti before tasting it then not to use a knife. I must keep the water and beer out of the sun and not text my wife at the table. It then took an hour to descend stopping to take photos, arriving back down at 13.15 then at 13.30 I drove away for Agrigento. Drive 31km 20 miles to Marsala, 1 hour 09.00 – 10.00. Drive Marsala to Agrigento 132km 82 miles 11.00 – 13.00 Roman temples. It was difficult leaving Trapani as there was much traffic and roadworks. There was confusion at Mazara finding the correct road and made a wrong turn but back on course soon enough. Good stretch of road from Castelvetrano to Agrigento so made up time, arriving there at 17.00. It was a hot drive with the car windows open with Chris Bowater blaring away. My overnight was at La Citta degli Dei, Via Gioeni 150, Agrigento. I unloaded the bike from the car to look for the accommodation but it wasn’t far away. I had a bit of a wait after using the mobile to summon the owner. I had a pasta meal with a litre of water 13€ on Via Atena, the main street.
Thursday 22nd June 2017
There was no one else in the building this morning. I took my rucksack back to the car and helped myself to what little was in the breakfast area and was about to go when the owner and family arrived at the front door. I followed them back up and was treated to a fantastic breakfast of warm croissants, savoury and sweet, fruit, plenty of coffee, juice and cake. At 09.30 I drive off down to the Valley of Temples and pay 10€ to explore the temple site. It was well worthwhile. I was there all morning. There was no cycling today except a little at Syracuse Port later looking for my accommodation. I explored the Temple of Concord, one of the most complete classic temples in the world, the Temple of Castor and Pollux, the Temple of Asklipios and the Grave of Theron. It was a hot walk and needed to buy water from one of the two cafés on the site. At midday I drive on to Syracuse 191km 120 miles 4 hours 09.00 – 13.00 Syracuse is also famous for Roman temples but I would see these tomorrow. On entering Syracuse from the Palazzolo road I came to the port and asked the way to Via Isole Marchesi They didn’t speak English but give me a slip of paper with the names Arenella and Zone Balneari and distance to reach it is 7km. I thought I was staying in Syracuse but it’s a beach resort I needed to be in, to the south of the city. Real fun happened when I asked a 50+ man directions to my accommodation. He was up for a challenge. He didn’t speak English but understood perfectly well what needed to be done. He escorted me around the streets of his local area not knowing where the street Via Isole Marchesi was and he was determined to find it. I followed his car all around the area, three times having to backtrack and three times he asked locals. One local he met pointed to the sign for the road that was hung on a post and promptly tore it off. He offered his own accommodation but I said I had already paid for mine, pointing to the payment slip. We laughed and my old boy scout continued in front of me and eventually found the road and proudly called the bell for me and had a long conversation with the owner. I was ushered in, booked in and again glad I was staying two nights as I had a good room in a quiet suburb and a swimming pool that wasn’t being used by anyone else. I swam 40 lengths but then the pool is only 10 metre in length! I walked down the road later and bought a pizza from a take-away – the only take-away on a very quiet road – took it back to the pool and sat under the setting sun and ate with a beer. Two overnight tops at Villa Anna B&B, Via Isole Marchesi 12, Syracusa
Friday 23rd June 2017
After breakfast – a really generous breakfast – I left the car and cycled 8km along the road to Ortigia, the central section of Syracuse and explored the narrow streets, fruit market and the Temple of Apollo. I bought a Sicily fan for Ruth from the market. Later I cycled north to Neapolis for a look around the Roman site at Syracuse then back to Arenella for another swim and sunbathe. Tonight I had pasta at a hotel restaurant near the beach
Saturday 24th June 2017
Away at 10.00 after a sunbath at Villa Anna. I drove to Catania Airport 50km 33 miles. Final car distance 26659km so drove 1211km or 757 miles. Total cycling was 300km or 188 miles. First off I booked in at my accommodation then returned the car to the airport at 16.00. I cycled 5km into Catania to explore the city. I found the main piazza with the cathedral and obelisk on top of an elephant monument. This area is the main point of interest. I had a pasta meal in the main piazza people watching then biked back to the B&B to pack but not the bike as I needed to wheel the bike bag and rucksack a kilometre down the road to the airport in the morning. Overnight at Torre Igor, Via San Giuseppe Alla Rena 82a, Catania. Flight Catania to Manchester
Sunday 25th June 2017
No breakfast as the place was deserted. Left the keys at reception and closed the door and electric gate behind me then wheeled the laden bike the one kilometre to the airport. Once there I bagged the bike in the cycle flight bag then went to check in. the flight was due to depart at 11.55, arrive Manchester at 14.30. However my flight was delayed 2.½ hours due to the normal pilot being unwell and not on duty. A flight from Barcelona was due at Manchester and the pilot from that flight would be diverted from Manchester to Catania to take the Catania flight to the UK. All on the flight were given 4.50€ compensation to spend in an airport café. The flight eventually left Catania at 14.45, arriving in Manchester at 17.15. I caught a train from the airport to Alderley Edge and Ruth collected me. Home at 19.00
Car hire 14th June to 24th June inclusive. 11 days £203.11 + £58.30 for full excess waiver = £264.41. £23.75 per day