Friday 16th March 2012
Holmes Chapel 07.46, Crewe 08.01. Crewe 08.29 Euston 10.04. St Pancras 12.57 Brussels 16.08. A meal in first class and a seat on my own and bike tucked away in its bag and safely in sight, couldn’t ask for more. Arrived in Brussels on time and lugged the bike down to the platforms and along to track 12 for the 16.33 for Luxembourg to arrive at 19.40. I got on the wrong train and waited in Namur 17.42 to 18.42 for the Luxembourg train. Finally arrived at 20.40 then couldn’t find the hostel. It was quite easy really but I wandered all round the city but finally found it at 22.50 just before the hostel closed. Bike to the lock up down below and I made up the bed and went straight to sleep. 45.80€ for two nights bed and breakfast
Saturday 17th March
Day 1 Train, Thomas Cook timetable T439 Luxembourg 09.15 to Clervaux 10.08, 99km Cycled out from Clervaux heading east towards Marnach and took a road to the right at Reuler for Cote de Munshausen BIG 138, passing through woods on the climb then an open clearing to the village. A right turn then a short distance to the top at the end of the village on the Marnach road. The usual photos then open country to Marnach then main road south through Hosingen where I finally got my front brake sorted out at a garage. I needed an allan key to tighten it from rubbing on the wheel. On then to Diekirch 27km and took a right then a left up the very steep Rue Montee Herrenberg to join the main road near the top then right for Herrenberg BIG 144, there’s a military base at the top, took the usual photos then down the main road leading to the north of Diekirch at a police station then right, back into the town then took the road for Echternach. I took a right for Berdorf 9km before reaching Echternach and climbed the next BIG; BIG 145 Berdorf-Gorges du Loup, 36km, passing the rocks halfway up that resemble a mini Saxon Switzerland with steps up and crevasses through the gaps between the rocks. I had a short stop here then on to the top of the BIG at Berdorf and took photos at the road junction in the village that marks the top. From there steeply down to Echternach, passing more gorges on the way down. It started raining but went off when I reached Echternach. Straight on at the crossroads on the Wasserbillig road then took a right for Osweiller but straight on at the crossroads after a long climb. To the right is Osweiller and left for Dickweiller. Straight on then shortly a fork to the right led to the wind turbines marking the top of BIG 148 Epliennes de Pafebierg, a few photos in the barren landscape and could see how effective those wind machines are at this point. Along and down to Herborn then a right turn for Bech, a short stop here then a gradual climb up to the main road then a left turn and along to Altrier BIG 146, a mast on the right of the road marks the top but there’s nothing of interest here on the busy main road. From here downhill all the way then took a right at Gonderange for lanes through Hostert, Niederanvan, Oetrange, Hesperange, Bettambourg and Dudelange 35km, and lost far too much time negotiating the lanes and arrived at Kayl for BIG 150 Mont Saint Jean when it was already dark so no photos. I wanted to get back quickly now, so directly back through Bettembourg to Luxembourg, 32km. Total 130km or 81 miles 10.30 to 20.30
Sunday 18th March
Day 2, An early start and first one down for breakfast at 06.30 and out at 07.30 and this time I had the route to the station sussed - under the bridge to the right and along Rue Sosthene Weis and Rue St Ulric in the valley then steeply up Montee de la Petrusse to Avenue de la Gare. This time it took me only half an hour. I boarded the I.C. 133 train from Luxembourg at 08.20, arrived in Koblenz at 10.35, T915, then from Koblenz T914 at 10.54 on the same platform for the regional train via St Goarhausen and Wiesbaden to Frankfurt Hochst at 12.54 – well it was ½ an hour late so made up for that by jumping on the local service SE12 to Konigstein, arriving ½ an hour later at 14.00. from there I started my afternoon cycling and rode the steep main road north then off to the right for Grosser Feldberg BIG 182 25km, 2hours 14.00 – 16.00. It took me 1 ½ hours to reach the top. Another right turn in the woods led up the final 3km to the towers at the top, shrouded in mist but the day was overcast. There was no view at the top and the towers stood like ominous sentinels. From here quickly down and back to Konigstein. I had a quick look around the small town streets – definitely a tourist area- then 28km to Weissbaden at 18.00 and enough time before dark to cycle the Hohe Wurzel BIG 181. I originally planned this for the following day but good to cram the climb in now and hopefully realise a better day tomorrow. I was a bit confused in Wiesbaden so asked a few people for directions in my best German of course. I last asked a petrol station and knew I was on the right road when I was told ‘geradeaus’ The climb took me an hour, arriving at 19.30. I don’t think it’s particularly steep except for one sharp section 3km from the city. I could see the lay of the land ahead and could see that when I reached the trees I would be near the top. The only indication that I arrived at the top was the brown road summit markers either side of the road in an open clearing. It was just getting dark when I reached the top so a quick few photos and on with my jacket and helmet and speedily down to find somewhere to stay the night before it got totally dark. I found a hotel to the north west of the city before reaching the busy streets. I was still on the road down from the Hohe Wurzel. The hotel is the Hostellerie Landhaus Diedert and set me back 117€ - 70€ for the room – a very nice en suite – should be for the price – a very filling evening meal of Barlauchschaumsuppe followed by a filet vom Havellander Apfelschwein and drinks and breakfast in the morning. I slept very well that night after previous nights' broken sleep at Luxembourg hostel and two very active days under my belt. Total 70km or 43 miles 14.00 – 20.00
Monday 19th March
Day 3, After a filling breakfast, out from the hotel at 09.30 and into Weissbaden and to the hauptbahnhof and took a regional train to Rudesheim on the Rhine at 10.33 then the 11.33 ferry across the Rhine to Bingen. I realised I had to make up time if I was to reach a point further west by the end of the day so I took another regional train at 11.55 from Bingen to Rockenhausen, arrived at 12.54 and asked the way for Donnersberg. I ended up cycling an estate on a hillside to the east of the station but soon found out this was wrong. I wasted time here but eventually found the road north of the town signposted for Marienthal. It’s a fairly steep rise on the main road leading out of Rockenhausen. Marienthal is a pretty village and the traffic seemed to disperse but was busy again on the monotonous section leading up to the right turn to Donnersberg BIG 165, 3km along this road to the top at 14.40 and a cul-de-sac and a one way system at the top. There was even a police car up there to enforce it – or was he having an afternoon nap? There’s a pub at the top but just my luck – Monday is ruhetag so couldn’t get a celebration drink. The top is marked by a radio/tv mast among the trees and I had a short walk through the woods for the view. After taking the usual photos and one with the self-timer I put on jacket and helmet and did an about turn back down to Rockenhausen, 20km and went to the station at 15.20 for a train but had a ¾ hour wait so decided to cycle on heading north along the valley to Bad Munster, 25km at 16.30. There was a train from here to Turkesmuhle at 17.03 arriving at there at 18.40. I went for this then cycled from Turkesmuhle to Tholey, 15km. It was dark half way there but it was a good cyclepath the whole way. I arrived in Tholey at 19.30 but had some difficulty finding somewhere to stay. All hotels and b&b’s on the main road were closed. I stopped for a kebab at the only eating place and asked there. I was in luck and was directed to a hotel on the Schaumberg road ½km above the village. I arrived at Das Hotel Schauenburg 20.45 and had a Bolognese with nudels and went to sleep at 22.15. Total 60km. or 40 miles 09.30 – 19.30
Tuesday 20th March
Day 4, 08.00, Tholey to Schaumberg BIG 163 3km without any bags as I left them at the hotel to be picked up later. I asked a German construction worker up there to macht mein foto to which he readily obliged. I had a good look round at the top and could see this area is a tourist attraction with signboards and coloured walkways around the mountain side. At 09.00 I collected my bags and cycled back to Turkesmuhle, in daylight for a change then struck north for the first time and hoped to complete four BIG’s today as the first one was done early in the day. It was a sunny day for a change but there was climbing involved just after Birkenfeld where the road continues up through woods then the left turn then left again for the final 3km to Erbeskopf BIG 161, I left my bags hidden in some bracken for the final 3km to the top and took the usual photos in front of the military base and walked along boards on to an overhanging viewpoint. A radio/tv mast again marks the top. 42km via Birkenfeld, 11.30, Downhill to Morbach and joined with a very busy main road from Trier to Mainz and also Frankfurt Hahn airport is nearby. The road passes Stumfer Turm BIG 160 18km from Erbeskopf, 13.00. I wasn’t impressed with this as not only a parking place but also another P place – it smells – especially behind the turm that really is a stump. I went a bit further just to make sure it was the top – it was. I didn’t stay here long, only enough to take photos then back to the road junction near here for a right hand turn for an easy road steeply down to the Moselle at Kues Bernkastel and admired the pretty houses there, many photos. The road down to this point was closed because of men working on the road just above the town so it was fantastic to have the whole road to myself and enjoy the sweep down the hairpins safely. It was a further 70km to St Aldegund following the curves of the river and it was impossible to reach BIG 159 Steigung Von Bremm today, let alone reach Cochem as planned. I also took far too long admiring the scenery along the way. I cycled the west side of the Moselle as far as Traben then the east side to Zell and back across to the west side finishing at St Aldegund for the day at 19.30. I made too many stops for sausages and photos. I found a place to stay for 30€ at a pub and had two pastas at a really good restaurant run by a Pakastani. Wonder what Pakastani food is? What ever it is he can’t sell it but his pasta was good. To bed at 23.00, full up and tired. 133km or 83 miles 08.30 – 19.30
Wednesday 21st March
Day 5, Final day so ready for the big push. I must reach Cologne tonight no matter what. My accommodation is already booked and I’m booked on the Thalys from Koln to Brussels and Eurostar from Brussels to London tomorrow so today has to be serious riding and complete the final three BIG’s. I set off at 08.30 after a bland breakfast but at least it was filling. It was the usual bread, meat, cheese and jam and plenty of coffee to wake me up. I went for the bike in the garage but die frau insisted on 3.00€ for the garage space even for a bike. It was dry this morning but cool but that soon changed after 2km as I left the Moselle and began the climb up Steigung Von Bremm, BIG 159. The climb is mainly up through woods and there is a series of hairpins similar to the descent testerday down to the Moselle. At a clearing there is no fanfare at the top such as a café or pub, just a wooden post with a footpath direction indicator and a plate pointing to an old ruin of a Roman Temple nearby. Over the top its just open country as I passed through a series of villages; Kliding, Urschmitt, Driesch, Alflen on a main road after just passing another military base with aircraft this time. I was on a busy main road by-passing Ulmen then on reaching Kelberg I took a right then a left at the next village, Hunnerbach, then left again to Welcherath then right through a wooded area popular with walkers to Meuspath. When I reached that point I got my answer to what the Nurburgring really was – it’s a racetrack circuit of approx 20km – and the noise was deafening. I took a right along a straight section of main road parallel to it and after a few kilometres took a left fork on to the Ahrweiler road and on through the woods heading for my next climb, the Hohe Acht BIG 157, 52km from St Aldegund. This is a very interesting area. I took a left at a pub off the main road where the large yellow sign had its brown indication for the BIG. I continued for approx 4km to the brown sign in the woods indicating Hohe Acht. From there I rode through the trees, up a little, a turn to the left then to the right then very steeply up along a narrow tarmac path to the viewing area underneath the stone tower. I took a few photos and was joined by a very enthusiastic German walker who was telling me the history of the area and that he would like to have a plaque put here when he dies in memory. He told me – all in German – I kept saying ‘langsam bitte!’ – of the fact that in pre-history Hohe Acht was a volcano that when it erupted the shock was felt as far away as Paris. Around the hillside among the trees are evidence of dried lava, now huge boulders. I continued on to Kempenich, another long uphill on the way. Once there I took a left (well a right then right and under the road) and headed north again and uphill as far as Hannebach then a glorious downhill to Ahrweiler, a photo of the walled gateway there then headed east a long way on a busy road heading directly for the Rhine at Sinzig. 12km to Kempenich, 20km to Bad Neuenahr. Across Rhine at Kripp near Remagen, 15km, 17.00. I asked if there was a bridge along here rather than a ferry. A German told me that there was once until you British bombed it in 1945. I shouldn’t have asked that question! How inconsiderate, the British pilots could have waited until I got across. Now along right bank of Rhine and to Schloss Drachenburg and plenty of photos of the climb and the Schloss. I wasted too much time. I could see the large building marking the top at Petersberg BIG 177, just across at the other hill but at 19.00 it was already getting dark. Back down again, and slightly to the north in Konigswinter then up the few kilometres on the road in the dark. I was disappointed. I should never have gone to the Schloss first. It was just that it took my fancy when I saw the rack and pinion railway at the foot of the climb. Back down in Konigswinter I cycled the Rhine Radweg some distance but gave up and took a train soon after and journeyed on into Koln and on to my accommodation at Station Hostel Backpackers in Marzellenstrasse. 2 hours, 24km, down to Bonn, 16km, 20.30. 125km or 78 miles. 08.30 – 20.30
Total distance cycled 518 km or 325 miles
Thursday 22nd March 2012 Depart Cologne 12.43 Thalys to Brussels 14.32.
Brussels 15.56 St Pancras 17.03, Euston 18.57 Crewe 20.33, Crewe 20.50 Holmes Chapel 21.02
Total cost £106.85 Dbahn : 08444 99 7171