Lombardy. Friday 12th June 1998
Flaming June is a wash out!
Escape to Milan but how? How long will this take?
Holmes Chapel departure at 23.35 arrive in Piccadilly 00.20, leaving Piccadilly at 00.25, to Manchester Airport at 00.50. Quick dash with the bike up and down the lifts at Piccadilly, to platform 14. At the Airport slept until 3.30 a.m. on the top floor of the departure lounge. Boarded the Sabena flight O.K. but it was delayed by 50 minutes due to high winds in Brussels. Breakfast on the plane, croissants and coffee, cheese, jam and a roll. Arrived at Brussels at 10.00 (should have been 9.05) Left Manchester at 7.50 (should have been 6.50) Waited in the plane all that time and it was getting stuffy. Mad dash at Brussels but the plane for Milan had already gone on time even though earlier on board announcements assured passengers that ongoing Sabena connections would wait. Perhaps the bike and panniers were also on it? Hoped that the Milan plane was being held but now left on a Sabena flight at 15.40, hanging around in Brussels Airport for four hours. Snack on board the Milan plane, even this plane was late -waiting air traffic controllers to allocate runway clearance in Brussels. Should take 1.¼ hours - so that could be 15.35. Actually arrived at 16.00. Quickly received and re-assembled the bike and out of the airport at 16.40. Told by Italian taxi drivers around the airport entrance that the Giro d’ ltalia was over! So was most of my day. Rode quickly into Milan to look for Stazione Centrale in a very big city. Got lost a few times, asked a police lady who had a street map on her to show me. Caught the 18.00 after queuing for my bike ticket (window number 14 for future use, in the middle of the station at the bottom of the escalators) Arrived in Morbegno at 20.00. Train was crowded but I got a seat. Guard on the train told me of his yearning to cycle around Scotland - he lives near Tirano and has done all the roads along the Sondrio and Maloja (Swiss) valleys, completed the whole circuit a few times. Why would he want to go to Scotland?!
I set off at 20.15 through the cobbled streets of Morbegno and away from the Sondrio valley which was soon far below me but it took more than an hour before the pass road was reached that climbed away from the side of the valley and into the mountainside. When I reached Valle the daytime was ending. I gave up looking for accommodation after knocking on a few doors. An old couple could offer me a meal but no room - declined. After Mad. d. Grazie there was no hope as there were no more villages - besides it was now 11.00 p.m. A place called Valbaredo had no pensions (or willing pensioners). At the 1157 metre height on the map I bedded down on 2 large logs next to each other that formed a comfortable warm hollow. It was cold in the night, I knew there were animals sniffing about but except for the cold in the middle of the night I slept all right. Used one pannier as a pillow, the other one I formed into a hollow in the middle of the clothing, put my feet in and drew the draw string - as I only had cycle shoes I couldn’t wear more than two pairs of socks. I slept until 5.00, wakened by the light and the birds. Though I was shivering it soon subsided. Had some chocolate and I was on my way again.
Saturday 13th June 1998 Morbegno to Presalona
Woke up cold and shivering at 5.00 a.m. It had been light for some time now. It was the light and the sound of the birds that woke me. After a rummage through my bags for something to eat, fished out a Zentis marzipan bar, sat on the logs for a while, the shivering subsided. The best thing to do was to get on the bike and get warmed up by cycling for a while. Gathered my stuff together, re-sorted the panniers then backtracked a few yards to what I thought was the top of the pass. How wrong I was, it was a way to go yet! It would take me about another 1.½ hour to reach the white Italian imperial eagle (the old Mussolini fascist years eagle) on the stone platform that marks the pinnacle of the road pass. I was very nearly at the tree line though. This is 12.5km away. Only two cars passed me on the road, one was a workman in an old land rover, he parked at the top, watching me curiously while I was taking my photos. He was probably wondering how I could have arrived at the top of the pass so quickly when the nearest accommodation was in Morbegno where I started from at 8.00pm yesterday. Well, it’s as easy as falling off a log.
Just below the pass I spied my first mirage of the tour - a restaurant. This was at 7.00am. I had two cappuccinos, a pane and some inquisitive looks from the waiter. Boun Giorno. Bella Oggi. Down steeply to Mezzoldo (end of the new road - some years ago there was no road over the top of the pass) Fast all the way down to San Giovanni (through a series of tunnels from Lenna) Into a shop for yogurt, milk and juice then up the Taleggio Gorge. This is an area of white rock, craggy vertical stone that resembled Cheddar Gorge on a grander scale. It is gradual up towards Olda, well wooded around the cliffs that get narrower towards Olda. The last part is an easy ride. From Olda to Peghera the scenery changes, down at first after Olda then a wide valley with a long but easy ascent to Peghera. The Bura Pass is reached soon after the village. There were no signs to indicate that it was the top but the scene of a few cyclists stopping to put on another layer apiece gave the game away. I took a photo from the top then a long sweep down to Zogno then up a well wooded road through Algua and a long steep road through woods to Serina, which took up far too much time - it was warm! Reached La Forcella pass but no downhill, it was level for a while then up again for the ascent of the Zambia Pass. This is steep near the end as I reached the well spread out town just below the pass. There were other cyclists at the top. Photos taken then down to Ponte Nossathen through Clusone in very heavy traffic that got a lot worse as I reached the town. It was obvious there was a problem. A motorcyclist had slid on the road, his petrol tank burst and spillage over the road - as well as blood. The biker was flat out, unconscious on his back in the middle of the road. His bike was firmly wedged under a land rover. Somebody tried to take his helmet off and just then the paramedics arrived from the opposite direction, as well as a fire engine. The traffic was at a standstill in both directions for a long way back. I walked past, carrying the bike over smashed glass and away again, leaving the town and its mayhem behind. Past the cowboy cafe at Onore, onto the main road again, I was nearing Presalona and began to look for somewhere to stay. It was 7.30 and I was running out of energy - I’d done 100 miles today, much of it uphill. Plodding on up the Presolona Pass the weather turned to rain, and I was finding it hard to get cheap accommodation. One place was charging 100,000 lire just for the room and breakfast but I wasn’t keen on staying there anyhow.
There was a very raucous wedding party going on that would be certain to last until the wee small hours and I needed the sleep badly! Two men struggled in from outside carrying a 6 foot by 6-inch log wrapped up in a white bed sheet. Strange Customs!
Found a hotel a short way from the top of the pass at 65,000 lire that included breakfast.
(Hotel Spamati) I had an evening meal of macaroni starter then steak and salad and red wine for 35,000 lire. Slept so well that I didn’t get up the next morning until 9.00. When I did wake up I thought it was the middle of the night because not only did I close the window but the shutters too. Watched TV in my room and re-arranged my bags a bit, jettisoning what I didn’t need for the next day’s adventure.
Overall distance to date: 156.7 miles. Maximum speed: 8 mph. Distance today: 104 miles.
Sunday 14th June 1998 Passo Presolana to Lago D’Idro
Woke up in the dark thinking it was the middle of the night. Soon found out that it was 9.00am. That’s the problem with closing the window and the outside shutters. No noise, no light - I was so zonked out after sleeping in the open air on felled trees the previous night. I was out on the road at 9.20! Only 200 metres to the top of the pass, photos, then the long sweep down the pass, a beautiful descent, down, down, down, with plenty of views. In the valley at Dezzo at the foot of the pass saw a large blue notice that read ‘Passo Vivione chuiso’. About turn, headed south along the valley floor instead of north to the Vivione (did it last year anyway - I only wanted to go again to take the photos as my camera failed at the crucial moment last year) Turned left and east up through woods and a few twists and turns, but nothing too strenuous, at the start of the Croce di Salven. Easy ascent from this side but a lot more open and steeper if coming up from Brenno in the Oglio valley. From Dosso to the cantonal boundary it was a terrace road for a few miles, which was a gentle relief, plenty of views of the Scalve valley below. The climb to the top of the Croce di Salven wasn’t difficult except for the first part from Dezzo to Dosso. Palline near the top is a pretty village with a bar and that’s all. Salven summit is marked by a white stone cross on the left side of the road (facing east). It’s wooded at the top, after this gentle descent at first then the road opens out after the woods and becomes wider on the descent to Breno, and a long straight sweep with good views of the Oglio valley and the mountains containing my next climb behind that. Down to Borno, reaching 40 mph - be careful ! Some hairpin twists below Ossimo then the valley floor is reached. Breno has one narrow street; the village lies in a permanent shadow dominated by white tall white cliffs on both sides. After a cappuccino at a bar in the village at the foot of my next pass it was then the serious climb of the tour, a 3.½ hour climb of the Croce Domini - Christ’s Cross, starting at 12.00. The summit is marked by a stone block on top of which is a metal cross. On the stone is marked distances to the villages around. There was a great cafe at Cam Palaro about a third of the way up. Had spaghetti and a light beer here. The pass never really seemed to begin at first; it seemed a long way just to get to Astrio. I watched Japan getting slaughtered by Argentina in the world cup on the cafe’s TV. It was a long hard climb after the cafe (writing this while enjoying my quattro staggione pizza, tiramisu, ¼ litre of red wine, large beer and gratis Trentino grappa at Antico Foclare ristorante in Madonna di Campiglio 42% - phew. non disperdere nell ambiente dopo l’uso - this will send me to bed and out like a light. There was a biker’s cafe at the top of the Croce Domini so I felt a bit out of place. It was no great surprise by the number of bikers roaring up and down the pass all afternoon. The counter staff are equally bike conscious. Coffee and pane 6000 lire then started off up the Bala pass - but this was a no go as you need a mountain bike to ride on the loose stones that make up this road - it’s only a wide track, passable but not on a road bike. Back down through the snow and mud. Back to the road for the descent to Bagiolino. The Giro d’Italia has been up this way, judging by the paint on the road with all the favourite riders names - plastered everywhere! At the top I picked a few wild flowers for identification when I get home.
Narrowly missed a motorist while I was picking the wild flowers and again narrowly missed by a motorist going well over the speed limit up to the top. The road was plastered with white paint everywhere for the first couple of miles descent. Names were scrawled such as ‘Allez Pantani’ to encourage the Giro d’Italia stars up the final stage of the mountain. The race only finished a couple of weeks ago.
Way down below at Bagiolino I reached the largest place on the descent to Lago d’Idro with its narrow streets to emerge at an open area above a gorge. There was a bar on one side of the bridge and a catholic church dominating over a row of houses on the very edge of the gorge. There was a service going on at the time and the priest was chanting from the balcony to anybody below who cared to listen. People were lounging about around the bar area. Took a photo of this and the cobbled streets, I fancy staying here sometime in the future. Plunged down the remaining part of the pass then a tantalizing short way up before the glorious descent and views to Lago d’ldro at S Antonio. Photos of the lake, then along main road above the lake and into Caffaro where I found an albergo for L35,000. Had a pizza in the village and half a carafe of wine and a beer while watching the world cup. Slept well that night! (11.00)
Day’s totals: Max speed 37.5 O/D 217.4 Today’s distance 60.71 in 7 hrs. AVS 8.7 mph
Monday 15th June 1998 Lago D’Idro to Madonna di Campiglio
Woke up at 5.30am because of the Velux window and the sun shining in and also the screeching
of birds. It was a nice room, varnished tongue and groove ceiling and wood panelled walls at the
top of the house - but I was here for the sleep not the views ! I didn’t have any breakfast as it
wasn’t included in the price and thought I would try a bar somewhere. Paid my bill then out on
the road at 8.30am. Found a bar a few miles down the road at Storo, just off the road along the
valley that eventually goes to the Brenta Dolomites - but that’s tomorrow’s playground. I turned
right for Storo at the foot of a nature reserve and Riva del Garda beyond that. Had 2 croissants
and cappuccinos in the bar. On emerging it started to rain, fine at first but it gradually got more
persistent as I climbed up Val d’Ampola. Rainwear on then onward and up. Along the well
wooded pass to Ampola where there was a turning for the Tremalzo Pass I planned to cycle to
the south but looking at the map it would seem that it would be a track like the Bala pass so
decided to carry on. In the rain nothing could be seen high up anyway. I’ll leave these types of
passes for another year and come back with the mountain bike. It was an easy pass, just as well
as I cycled in my full rainwear.
Through the nature reserve I reached Lago di Ledro. Stayed at the end of the lake for a while to
wait for the rain to ease a bit. Had chips and a litre of milk then the rain eased. Down the hairpins
and into the valley below, followed by an English coach - they get everywhere. Into a tunnel that
was 5 miles long, well lit and air-conditioned with huge blowing air conductors at stretches along
the tunnel. It was all downhill inside so got through it as quickly as possible to emerge in dry
weather about a mile north of Riva, above the town. Down to the town to reminisce. There was a
lot of building work going on around the harbour which would have been a disappointment for
Ruth, and also in the main streets there was resurfacing going on causing traffic congestion.
Police were directing traffic, I wish I never came down from the tunnel now - it was chaos!
I took a while to get out of the town then took the valley route for Tenno and the road for Tione
to the north.
Heading out of Riva past Varese waterfall, it was hidden in the trees but judging by the size of the hills around it is nowhere near as impressive as the Krimml waterfall on the Gerlos Pass in Austria - Europe’s highest. I suppose seeing that will make any other an anti-climax. If I ever go to Niagra, well the Krimml will become insignificant! Slowly up the pass, twists and turns to reach Villa del Monte, photos taken of the valley, Riva and Lake Garda below - superb view of the lake. Lago di Tenno further up is a deep green lake as all the trees around it are reflected in the lake, very picturesque and worth a photo. A little further up to reach the top of the road at Ballino then a sweep down to Fiave. On through interesting farming country then up again to reach Passo Duron 1000 metres. It started raining again halfway down the other side but the trees are so densely packed that there was no need to put rainwear on. Emerging in the village of Zuclo at the bottom of the pass it really started lashing down. I sheltered in a bar and had the best
coffees I’ve ever tasted in Italy! (4200L & a cake) This is an interesting village, resembling villages found in the Grisons part of Switzerland. Passed through a bit of an industrial area to Tione. a mile down the muddy road. Seriously thought of retreating to Trento for a train a long way south (Rome?) to escape this driving rain. However I found out later on T.V. that evening that it was just as bad down south, there’s no escape! There were no buses. It was just as well because when I left the town a few minutes later the rain went off and the sun came out for the rest of the day, and for the rest of the week!
Had a dry ride all the way to Madonna di Campiglio, and a lot of sunshine too. VaI Rendena is a beautiful valley, a typical alpine valley that ended at Pinzola with a lot of sunny villages on the way. Pinzola is the star attraction of the valley, a walker’s paradise. Now the climbing starts as Pinzola marks the southern start of the Passo Carlo Magno. Counting the kilometre posts along the way I found out that on my granny gear I average 8 minutes for each kilometre, which is useful to know when planning further tours in the Alps! It was so much less effort, and quicker when I left my pannier bags at the hotel in Madonna and cycled the last 2 kilometres up to the road summit of the Carlo Magno in 8 minutes - twice the speed. Great views on the way up from Pinzola but the Brenta Dolomites to my right (east) were hidden in swirling low cloud. Knocked on a few doors and eventually found a hotel called the Antico Forcola at 35,000L B&B. It was a good hotel. The restaurant was on the other side of the road to the hotel.
Today’s totals: Max. speed 38 mph, O/D 291.8 Distance today 74.4 miles in 10 hours, average speed 8.8 mph.
2750L= £1, 5500L = £2, I I000L = £4, 33000L = £12, 35,000L = £12.70,
65,000L = £23.65, I0,000L = £3.65, 28,000L = £10.20, 30,000L = £10.80.
Tuesday 16th June 1998 Madonna di Campiglio to Tonale
I think perhaps my body needs to adjust by gradual warm ups to trips like this. It’s so easy to think that the strength is there to attempt marathon rides without a lot of preparation. I did prepare with rides beforehand but perhaps not enough. As the week progressed though I regained my strength and only the hot weather became a deterrent. I crawled up to the top of the Carlo Magno pass, rested on the grass for a while. Avoided getting sprayed by weed killer from a person with a spray nozzle walking the private driveway. On the way down the pass I let the gravity do the pulling while I leaned on the bars. I rested a couple of times on the way down at picnic tables along the well wooded pass, feeling very light headed. At Dimaro, the end of the road and the junction with the main road from Tonale to Cles, I saw a supermarket. I bought 2 cartons of milk and yoghurt and devoured the lot. Half an hour later I felt so much better as I began along the road for the Tonale Pass. Another stop at Mezzana then I was at full strength again. The pass started at Fucine. Reading various guide books this pass is always underrated because it’s a main road but I found that from this point onward, and down the other side, there was not a great deal of traffic. The pass is very scenic from Fucine onwards, and down to Ponte di Legno. Vermiglio village perched on the edge of the mountainside, looks like a village that should be in the Himalayas, not the Alps. It’s that sort of place, old and new, many houses that need a lick of paint, others are gaudy. There was a lot of building work going on - mainly restoration work. There is a bar here that houses a First World War museum. Along the way I saw a 26% steep hill sign. I was so glad that it was not part of my route. From Vermiglio it was still a long way up the pass but through some glorious scenery. The well-wooded pass eventually gave way to an open clearing after a First World War defence outpost. From near the top the snow and ice on La Presanella was an impressive sight. Looking back there was a great view of the Brenta Dolomites and the Dolomites proper around Bolzano far away. When I reached the road summit I was surprised to see what looked like a mini city up here, at least 5 high-rise buildings there. It was by far the biggest place since Madonna di Campiglio. Took a photo looking east of the more natural countryside then from the same spot towards the blot on the landscape to the west. I took the inevitable photo of the road summit marker on the east side that stood among pipe laying stuff then tried the bars to get some pasta intake. Nowhere open until 7.00pm, and I wasn’t going to hang around for three hours waiting. Fitness fanatics were running the road at the top, back and too through the ‘village’. I found a cafe just below the summit on the west side where I tucked into two large salami crusty rolls with mayonnaise and a selection of English teabags, as many as I could drink - and I did! - for 10,000L -£3.60. Careering down the pass now, only a few kilometres down to Ponte di Legno to meet up with the Gavia Pass. I climbed the 7km to the Stelvio national park boundary. On the way I passed by the last village on the pass to reach the few houses at S. Antonian, spotted an albergo - very simple, part of a large farm building. I read the notice on the door that said they were closed until the 1st of July but thought I would ask anyway. The farmer came out just then - it was only 6.00pm but thought it best to make it a short day. He couldn’t offer me accommodation so I asked how far to the next place. I was told at the top of the pass but looking up at the dark clouds that loomed up there I wasn’t too sure it was a good idea. There was a road notice just here to say that the road was being resurfaced and would be completed in September. Does that mean to say the road will be surfaced to the top of the pass? It was 11 km from this point to the top so I thought I’d go and see how far I could go in the hope of finding a place to stay. The Gavia road summit was 2621 metres, and the albergo where I just came from was l500m so l had a fair climb to do in 11 km. I continued up, round a hairpin on the newly surfaced road to reach the Stelvio park boundary - and a sudden end to the surfaced road. The way forward was now a stony and uneven track about 5 foot wide. Looking at the map there were some steep parts in the remaining 10 km. It was obvious too that it was raining up there and I hadn’t the energy to tackle a situation like this so late in the day. I turned back from the 3rd highest through road pass in the Alps and decided this is best attempted by mountain bike in the future. I would find it difficult to ride a packed road bike up there on the stones, plenty of potholes too. The idea now is to attempt it from the north side where there is a well-surfaced road all the way up from Bormio. This can be linked with the Vivione pass from Edole and a train up from Verona / Brescia and link with other passes to the east.
So much for the Gavia - back down the pass having reached halfway and back to Ponte di Legno and returned up the Tonale pass. It was about 7.00pm now so I plumbed for an albergo somewhere up the west side of the pass as it would be too expensive to stay in the ‘mini city’ at the top - after that there was nothing until Forcola at the beginning of the valley to the east of the pass. Found a place for 65,000L = breakfast and evening meal, about 4km from the top. The spaghetti bolognaise starter was filling but the fatty stewed meat and two huge melon like slices of instant spud was a real turn off.
Tuesday 16/6. Totals for the day: MXS 34mph, ODO 338.8 miles, today’s distance 48 miles in 6 hours (‘Auto’ doesn’t include stopping time) AVS 7.9 mph.
Wednesday 17th June 1998 Tonale Pass to Meran
After a Spartan breakfast - they didn’t go overboard in being generous with their food though the room was good - paid my bill 84,500L, which include the phone call and water - I continued up the pass in brilliant sunshine at 8.45 for the final 4 km to the top. I was up there in half an hour. Took one last photo of the top; the pass marker on the west side, then the sweeping descent to Forcola. Took plenty of photos on the way, as it was a clearer day than yesterday. At Ossana - interesting castle here that used to guard the foot of the pass - I took off my layers for the more sedate ride all the way to Mostizzolo bridge, 25 km away. It was a glorious sunny, gradual descent reminiscent (but more scenic) than the Spondigna to Meran descent to the north. On the way down I had a look at the church at Pellinzzano as the guidebooks say that the external frescoes around the wooden porch area are worth a diversion. They were too. The door area was painted on every available space, mainly with Mariolatry designs. I speeded up past Dimaro as I didn’t want to relive yesterday’s memories. I was pleasantly surprised to find that road continued to descend and through pleasant scenery too. I cycled non stop to Ponte Mostizzolo where the private railway - Ferrovia Trento to Male, crosses a deep gorge together with the road bridge at a lower level beside it - very scenic. The cafe by the side of the bridge was closed. A turning to the left from where I came, at the bridge, indicated Passo Mendola but it was also a steep road up to come down again later. There was no point in cycling up just for the sake of it so I continued on, over the bridge and into the Val di Non, a large wine growing area. This covers a huge area from here to Molveno under the Brenta Dolomites and across from Cis to the road passes of Mendola and Palade. Up to Cles, past a motorist who had stopped on the road having come off worst in an argument with a lorry. Just before Cles a road plummets down into the valley by the Lago di Guistina, which marks the western edge of the south facing vineyards. After the descent comes the inevitable ascent and I slogged it up in the heat to Cagno village where I took a breather by the white stone fountain in the cobbled village centre. All was peaceful until a screech of brakes where a car narrowly missed colliding with another at the end of a narrow street. An easy ride from here along the VaI di Non, through the vineyards and picturesque string of villages all the way to the Novella river below Fondo. This area can compete with the Rhone valley in Valais any day. Bright green fruit trees and deep blue sky and birds everywhere - it was so peaceful and colourful. Another deep gorge at the river but it was a long way down and dry. This marked the foot of the Mendelpass/Passo Mendola. A climb up to Fondo that always seemed to be always that bit further away but once reached it was an easy ascent of the Mendelpass. I missed the turning for Malosco in the town that would have shortened the way up the pass by 4 km, through Belvedere. The Mendelpass signposts direct traffic along to Sarnonico then up through Ronzone in a ‘V’ shape route. It’s worth the effort of the steeper route through Belvedere as I discovered when I came down the pass back to Fondo later for the way on to Passo Palade/Gampenjoch. It’s a fallacy to take the lower road through Ruffre to go up the pass, as there’s one hell of a climb from Ruffre to get back to the pass to compensate for the height difference. It was an easy ride up the pass - I did it in middle gear, front and back (42/21). The lower part of the pass from Val di Non is steeper than the part from Belvedere to the top. There are a lot of souvineer shops and cafes at the top. I ordered a lasagne and a pot of coffee in my best German and was understood - it was wonderful - so was the lasagne! (17,000L - £6.15) From the viewpoint there is a funicular that goes down to Caldaro/Kaltern in the Adige valley between Bolzano and Merano. The inevitable photos of the pass marker and from the viewpoint (a must) then back down the pass to Fondo, this time via Malosco. In Fondo the ascent of the Passo Palade began right away. It was an easy 10 km ascent. It’s similar to the Mendola but much longer and higher. There were places to eat along the way - I was hungry again! - must be all this hyper activity my body isn’t used too. However I thought I would wait until I reached the road summit. I was thinking it would be like the Mendola and have plenty to choose from but I was disappointed there was just a lonely pub there so I had a small light Forst beer to celebrate my latest conquest. The descent from here to Lana was a long one; it would be a tough ride in a low gear coming up from this side. There are wonderful views of Bolzano with the Sciliar National Park as a backdrop and it was a wonderful day for photographs. I got a bit carried away with my camera clicking. Further down the pass, below Tissens there were great views forward along the road to Meran and on to the mountains where the Timmelsjoch and Jaufenpasses wind up the mountains The descent ended at Lana and I made the mistake of taking the road to Burgstall/Postal then had to strike north along the busy main road. I found a place to stay called Hotel Laura just south of the city centre (in Romstrasse). (50,000L - £18.25) I showered, changed and locked my bike up and got out to a nearby pizzeria after first stretching my legs for half an hour towards the city centre I strolled down to the pizzeria and had the house pizza and 2 large glasses of light beer. (11,000L + 4000L = 19,000L = £6.80).
It’s no mistaking what team won the world cup match with Italy playing this evening. There was a huge screen up in the town centre and all the restaurants had it on, of course. The crazy Italians were driving around the city streets at top speed in their cars, flag waving, beeping their horns loudly and shouting!
Thursday 18th June 1998 Meran to Sarentino
Today is a personal landmark as I achieved my ambition of completing all the +2000 metre passes east of Geneva by bagging the final two, this also means I’ve traversed the whole of the main Alpine ridge but excluding the French passes.
I set off from Meran at 9.00, then had a look around the old town and out of the old town gate at the back of the cathedral. I thought this would take me to the road north along the valley but instead it meandered up along the right of the river and I was soon on the road for Tirol Dorf. I didn’t want to go that way so took a right and came down to the main road at the fountain and ‘Tirol Dorf’ stone that was worth a picture. St Leonhard was two hours away from here. Great valley scenery, more down than up but the first stage was a climb away from Meran. In St Leonhard I shopped in the supermarket, stocked up for the next pass and had a bit of a rest. Watched the fun by crazy motorists determined to park outside the supermarket door up a narrow steep incline and a top area in front of the supermarket that was no wider than a car. Bought a 2 x ½ litre of milk and a large tub of strawberry yoghurt. I drank half the milk later near the top of the pass. It took 3.½ hours to get up the Jaufenpass but I enjoyed it! St Leonhard to Jaufenpass is 20 km - 14 miles. I stopped a lot on the way up. The first part of the ascent was over 5 hairpins, which are easy enough followed by a long stretch through two villages and then through a short tunnel. From there the real climb starts and it’s a killer! I could see the summit from the start of the second set of hairpins and it was a long way up! The last three hairpins are above the treeline, very scenic but wild. An Austrian gentleman doffed his cap to me but wasn’t sure how to take his serious face. I could see for miles above the tree line. There were cows on every field in abundance. It was a lonely road near the top except for the continuous drone of motorbikes! There are only a couple of buildings at the top, facing both ways down each side of the pass. I had a coffee and wurst in one of them and bought some pass franked cards and a cowbell - not full size! All told 9000L (£3.15) I took the usual pictures at the top and got people to take photos of me. Just before my descent down the north side about ten Austrians driving souped up track mobiles arrived at the top, they took their photos then drove slowly down the south side. I’m glad they were going that way because my speed of descent would be similar to theirs’. A long but quick descent to Sterzing but didn’t stop as I wanted to climb the Penserjoch before the day wears on in the hope of getting to Bolzano (as it turned out I could have done - only 20 km away from it at my night’s stay at Sarentino in the valley of the same name - it was down all the way to the town. It was a slow ride on a steeper road than the Jaufenpass but I made it in better timing, probably because it was past the heat of the day. I started the climb at 4.00pm and reached the top 17 km further up from the 37 km marker in the valley (11 miles) at 6.30pm. I took photos at the top, put extra clothes and helmet on and reached Sarentino, 12 miles north of Bolzano where I stayed the night. The Penserjoch at 2211 metres is higher than I thought and there was plenty of snow at the top. I wanted to get as close to Bolzano as possible and continue to follow the railway line now as my lifeline back to Milan. The drag up to the top of the pass, though tiring and steep, was really inspiring. There are great views for many miles in all directions from the top, only the nearby mountain peaks breaking a complete panorama. The pass really does end in the clouds; it wasn’t the hop, skip jump over a mountain pass that I expected. At 2211 metres the summit deserves better and it certainly offers that! It was the pinnacle of my tour to reach this, the highest of this year’s tour. Coming up it is worth noting that the 37 km marker at the foot of the pass is exactly 13 km from the summit as the 50km post is next to the hospice. The village of Egg is half way but don’t be fooled as that only marks the toughest part to come!
There’s the hospice on the top which is big but looks basic and anyway I wanted to get to Bolzano/Bozen today so, rescuing the bike that was propped up near the ice on the side of the road, I set off with as much clothing on as possible and negotiated the dark depth in front of me. It was a long, steep drop for a few kilometres to the tree line far below. I wondered if my brakes would go ‘ping’ at the wrong moment to take me down a lot faster than the 34.5 mph being achieved with the brakes ON! Though they are now worn they held out - but I must adjust them. It was a very cold descent but I passed a cyclist sweating it out coming up the other side in shorts and vest. I think on reflection that I found it more comfortable coming up the other side. From the top of the pass there is not a single rise up heading south to Bolzano, which is an incredible 50 kilometres -36 miles away. Mark would love it but he’d come a cropper the first 100 yards at 80 mph! My safest speed was at 34.5. The Sarentino valley is a beautiful area well worth a return visit as it’s well away from all the main Alpine routes yet contains one of the highest passes in the Alps. I wouldn’t like to cycle UP from Bolzano though, as this would be a real drag. I reached Sarentino/Sarenthein, the largest village in the area at 7.30 and looked around for a hotel. I found one by the river for 33,000L, which included breakfast so that’s the best bargain of this year’s tour!
Went along the cobbled road of the village and found a good pizzeria. Had Meerfruchte pizza for 11,000 lire and a litre of red wine which I couldn’t finish off so they gave me the rest in a Forst beer 1/2 litre glass as Ich spricht gut Hoch Deutsch That and a mixed fruit salad came to 30,000 L (£10.50)
Today’s totals: Out at 9.00, end of day finished at 7.45. Max speed 34.5 mph
Overall distance 488.10 miles. Today’s distance 68.01 miles. Average speed 7.9 mph.
Friday 19th June 1998 Sarentino to Verona
A good night’s sleep after all that red wine, put the rest of it in one of my bike bottles and enjoyed it later on my last pass. Had a smashing breakfast of loads of rolls, croissants, eats, jams and cheeses. What I couldn’t eat went in a doggie bag of a huge paper napkin for devouring later in the day - will save visiting a supermarket! Paid the lady 43,000L then emerged from the hotel into brilliant sunshine at 9.00. Took a photo of the hotel from a modern light, wooden bridge bedecked with geraniums that spanned the river going down the valley.
I then rejoined the main valley road going down to Bolzano. At first the route was through a valley that became narrower as cliffs appeared further down. Eventually the way was through a narrow gorge that was reminiscent of Cheddar Gorge but on a much grander scale. Where the valley became too narrow the road plummeted steeply through a series of thirteen closely packed tunnels that are downright dangerous for cyclists. The higher ones are well lit but when you come to number eight on the way down then beware - it’s long and dark and you need lights. Tunnels seven, nine and ten are just rough galleries with natural rock walls - and no internal lighting. Many of the tunnels have wet cobbled road surfaces due to the water running down the rocks so go slow, wear a helmet and keep fingering the brake levers for the scariest ride of your life! When Castle Runkelstein is reached breathe a sigh of relief and offer a prayer of thanks that you’ve survived an ordeal worse than Blackpool’s big dipper because you’ve emerged at the other side and are now on the northern outskirts of Bolzano.
It’s market day in Bolzano on a Friday - I suppose Saturday too, and it was pleasant to take a stroll down the town’s old streets and take it all in. From Bolzano I took the main road to towards the Brenner pass, heading for Ponte Gardena then branch off up the Pinelsattel via the Alp di Susi. It was a very quick ride, maybe because I’m in my stride but then I did have two good meals since finishing riding yesterday. My idea was to go over the Pinelsattel then down to St Ulrich and head up the Grand Sella, which I’ve been up many years ago on a ride from Cortina, over the Marmolada to St Ulrich and down to Brixen. This time I wanted to go over and complete the Nigra, Costalunga and Lugano passes then the next day would see me over the lower passes between Trento and Verona. However it was not to be as I developed ankle trouble in my right leg. I stretched it while climbing up the Pinelsattel. I was so determined to get there but it was SO hot on that road. To make matters worse the road is a white surface that really reflected the sun. The shimmering heat on the road bounced back and it became oppressive. It was a struggle up a relatively easy pass but it’s very rewarding to see the huge mass of Alp di Susi so close halfway up. It’s the classical Dolomite formation of greyish white rock that rises vertically from the area around. Following this there was more climbing through St Michael to the woods along the last stage to the top, which was a welcome relief. From here steeply down to St Ulrichen but nowhere near as far as the up, as it was still a long way down from here to Ponte Gardena. It wasn’t a pleasant choice to make in having to turn back after all that effort getting here but if I was to continue over the Sellajoch, now within striking distance, then over the Castolunga, Niger and Lugano down to Trento then it would have probably have exacerbated my ankle problem and I don’t think I had the stamina to complete that circuit. So, with sad acceptance and facing reality instead of fantasy, I turned back and freewheeled back down the long valley hemmed in by tall cliffs and emerged in the open valley floor at Ponte Gardena. No trains from here in either direction for two hours so headed for Bolzano. It was an easy ride back to Bozen, mainly down. I reached the rail station mid afternoon and had a wild idea of heading south for Rome! Not for the first time this holiday but this time I wanted to go out in style and spend the weekend doing something completely different!
The weather had become a lot warmer since leaving Meran the other day. I’d accomplished 20 passes on this holiday, which was better than last year, and I must leave some for another time - already having thoughts about next year’s exploits! In Bolzano I found out that the only possibility was to take a train through the night for Rome, arriving at 7.00am Saturday but it would be risky. Could I get to Milan airport for midday Sunday? I gave up the whole idea and opted for a train to Verona instead.
Totals :- Bozen station 5.15pm 65.68 miles today, in 5 hours 48 minutes, average speed 11.2 mph, maximum speed 38 mph, overall distance 553.80 miles. Arrived in Verona at 8.30pm.
Palled up with a cyclist from Rosenheim, Germany. He had cycled over the Brenner and Pensner passes to Trento in two days. I took up his suggestion of staying at the youth hostel as he’d already booked ahead. I really didn’t want a repeat of last year where I struggled for a couple of hours before finding accommodation around the city. At least this year I was in Verona before the opera season commenced. The hostel is close to the Roman amphitheatre situated by one of the main bridges just outside the city proper. After booking in I had a shower and realised I didn’t have a towel as I had planned to stay in hotels all week, improvised by using my sweaty cycling top then layed it over the bed. It was no wonder that the two beds either side of me were not taken that night! The hostel was 20,000 lire B+B so I could afford to eat well at a nearby trattoria, just a short stroll along the cobbled road toward the river. I had two meals with my German friend, I was so hungry. I also downed ½ a litre of red wine - all told this came to 25,000 lire, which wasn’t bad. After this I arrived back at the hostel just before the gate shut at 1.30a.m. and crashed out. There were at least 200 beds side by side along the two walls but unlike Grindlewald hostel it was not mixed, which was a disappointment. Despite the snores I was well away for 2.00 a.m.
Saturday 20th June 1998 Verona to Sirmione
My friend from Rosenheim wanted to be out on the road at 7.30 and as he had no bike locks I had wrapped my two coil locks through both bikes and around metal fencing inside the hostel grounds. I got up at 7.15, washed etc. and had my breakfast. Breakfast was very basic but OK, Coffee or hot chocolate was served in soup dish size bowls and it was help yourself from the vat in front of the serving hatch. It was OK - hot, and the bread was fresh. It was now 8.00 and mein Deutsche fruend had just appeared! I was just on my way anyway, so I unlocked the bikes and wished him gute reise as I scooted off down the cobbles to the amphitheatre. It was open but I wasn’t fussed on having a look round. The free artists entrance was manned! Into Verona streets, had a quick look inside the duomo then searched out Juliet’s balcony. I wanted to get there before the coach loads arrived for the 9.00 am opening. I was there at 8.45. It was open and I was the only one there except for the staff. I took a few better pictures than last year as this time there were no people on them! At the entrance from the street I scribed our names in the cement wall.
I had just done my tourist bit when in came a crowd of American tourists. Along the road to the market area, had a small pizza and a beer then back to the Arena and the wide open space that’s the hub of Verona. From here along Via Roma to the castle and it’s bridge over the river, took a few photos here and had another look at the station to see if there were any travel possibilities, such as Venice - no go as I couldn’t take the bike on any of the trains.
So I cycled out of the city along Via Roma and out the quickest way for the main road to Pescheria on Lago di Garda, the same plan as last year but this time I made my way directly to the lake along the main Verona to Garda road.
Down to Pescharia through the town walls to the lakeside over the bridge the marks the south
east corner of huge Lake Garda. Had a look behind the ramparts around a peaceful area. There was a cafe and some old fellas playing chess at one of the tables. Some photos taken of the inner walls then back through the gateway, a ride to the end of the pier to watch a fat German and his wife in his small dinghy. How it manages to stay afloat is a mystery of science. He had trainers on but I’m sure he was below the Plimsoll line. A quick look around the souvineer shops then along the road for the few kilometres to Sirmione, along the south part of the lake, I carried on through to Desenzano to find the Rail station for my trip homeward bound tomorrow. I was confused at first, looked around for the station and it was only when I met an American armed with a street map that I discovered I hadn’t reached Desenzano yet, I was only in the village before it. On a bit further and I found the station at the end of a steep rise away from the lake and the picturesque small town snuggled around a small harbour. This was the point to get on the boat to Sirmione and anywhere else of any interest along the lake all the way up to Riva del Garda. Then made my way to Sirmione. First port of call was the tourist information just before the castle. They fixed me up with a hotel at 70,000L B&B (£24.00) Hotel Souvil back down the peninsula a bit but it has it’s own private beach, TV in all rooms and a very good shower. I sat on the verandah for a while after showering and relaxed. Later I went out to rediscover Sirmione. Biked along to the end of the peninsula and soaked up the sun near the Roman ruins. On the way back I had a sneak look in the grounds of the five star hotel and heard the sound of drums coming from the direction of Sirmione. Back into the town streets and I found out there was a group dressed in middle age period costumes marching to the drumbeats from one jetty and piazza to another. In each piazza they waved and tossed giant flags. I wish I had taken my camera instead of leaving it at the hotel, as the flag throwers were so good. A boy, about Lindsay’s age was giving a solo performance with four flags. Later, as a climax to the show, a fellow of about 30 gave a fantastic performance gradually handling up to eight flags, throwing them in the air and catching them, while wrapping others round arms, legs and through the legs, around the waist. It was really a colourful and clever display.
Found a great place past the hotel and on the same side. This and ½ litre of red wine at an outside table and took my time. Back to the hotel where sat on the verandah watching the fireworks display over Sirmione and to sleep at midnight, ready to go home now as the cycling is over.
SSunday 21st June 1998 Sirmione to Holmes Chapel
Up at 8.30 and didn’t hear the alarm, must have been whacked. No matter, no rush today so long as I make it to the airport for 3.00pm. Buffet breakfast at the tables outside in the sun. I thought I’d better make the most of this before heading back for rain soaked Britain. Had plenty to eat and what I couldn’t eat I stuffed in my panniers for my lunch. Bike locked up next to the tables. I paid my money and was out of the hotel at 9.30 for a last look around Sirmione. A warm, sunny morning - this place is the ideal place to relax. Took a few photos then biked on for the six kilometres to Desenzano. Arrived at 11.00 and had a good look round the picturesque traffic free harbour town, a few more photos taken. Bought some Amaretto for Ruth then up the last hill up to the station for the 12.16 train to Milan Lambrate. Tidied my bags up on the train, finished another quarter of that melon I bought yesterday and arrived in Lambrate at 13.50.
I asked a taxi cab driver the way to Linate and followed his directions. Then veered off when I saw the white signs for Linate. Followed these, many turnings through the quiet back streets, and ended up on a flyover. At this point I thought that it was just a bridge going over the industrial area below but after another 100 yards or so I realised I was on the autostrada! This was crazy, I had to get off here and fast so carried on until I saw the Milan turn off to the right just up the road but for some stupid reason I took the sign opposite for Linate, my logic worked against my common sense and I took that turning. I was clipped by a motorist who found it very hard to steer away from me going at speed. I destroyed his left hand wing mirror and smashed his left front light as he ran in to me. I was fortunate that my right hand pannier took most of the impact or I would have been crippled or worse. The pannier went flying off across the road; in the bag was the glass that I had kept from Sarentino, the bottle of amaretto bought in Desenzano and two boxes of wine bought at the shop by Desenzano station. These were all lost and spewn across the road. The car wing mirror had smashed into my right wrist and I received a deep laceration, it was bleeding quite badly. I really hadn’t noticed this though as I was too busy trying to rescue the contents of my pannier that was all over the road. A taxi driver had stopped on the hard shoulder on the opposite side of the autostrada and signalled me to go over, as a paramedic would be arriving shortly. The paramedic bathed and bandaged my arm but at first they were going to take me to the hospital to get my arm stitched. I really didn’t want this because I would be certain to miss my flight home. They insisted that I see my doctor as soon as I got home (which I did the next day). Shortly afterwards the traffic police arrived and remonstrated at me for being on the autostrada. I explained that I saw no green signs that indicated that I was approaching an autostrada only the white signs for Linate and by the time I was on the autostrada the most sensible course of action would been to have taken the next exit which I was about to do when I was hit.
I was very lucky to get away with a fine of 58750L (£20.10). There was a problem here though
as I had no Italian lire left! The car driver and the police took my name and address and passport details. I would have to pay for the car damage but hopefully my holiday insurance would cover that. My bike and belongings were placed in the accident truck; me in the cab and a police escort in front with siren flashing as I was taken to the airport. I’m really leaving Italy in style and what a climax! Went to the ‘Bankomat’ hole in the wall in the departure area, withdrew 100,000 L (£34.50), paid my fine and got my passport back. The police then left me and even shook hands! I felt very jittery and confused after the accident and was under a bit of stress in the departure lounge. The paramedics had indicated that the flight check-in might not let me onto the aircraft with such a deep gash. This bothered me. I made the mistake of joining the passport control with the bike when it should have gone to the baggage handlers. I then went back and left the bike at the right place but didn’t let the tyres down. In Manchester I had two blown tyres as a result! I was allowed onto the plane, keeping my arm hidden at the check-in, had some beer to calm me down then boarded the plane. I’ve never known such blissful relief as I relaxed in that seat! The return trip was uneventful and on time and I was so glad of that!
Milan 16.45. Brussels 18.15. (arrive) Brussels 18.55 (depart) Manchester 19.15. Manchester Airport station depart 19.51. Piccadilly 20.06, Piccadilly depart 20.20, Holmes Chapel 20.59
I later learnt that my holiday insurance will cover the accident costs and there was no further expense. My arm finally healed at the end of July but I will be left with a scar to remember it by!