Pyrenees - Barcelona to Jaca, June 2006

June / July 2006 Pyrenees Tour, Barcelona to Jaca

Day 1 Thursday 15th June       Holmes Chapel to Barcelona

Glorious warm sunshine at home and I was heading out to Spain. What was I letting myself in for? I reasoned if it’s a hot summer here it would be oppressive heat in Spain. I biked out with the padded bike bag strapped on top of my new set of panniers, both half empty as I wanted to travel as light as possible to conquer more mountain passes than any previous trip. I did away with carrying too much clothing and also whittled my tools down to the bare essentials and carried no guide books except for miniaturised double sided photocopied pages and altigraphs of the climbs copied from web pages, and phrase book essentials in French and Spanish. Once at Liverpool  John Lennon airport I dismantled the bike and stuffed the deflated wheels into the pockets in the padded bag then bike frame between and zipped it up. I didn’t have to turn the bars or take the pedals off but thought it a good idea to protect forks and chainstays with slotted plastic inserts and tie the chain to the chain wheel and also to the gear arm so I wouldn’t have a twisted chain when I came to re-assemble it later. Once checked in I wheeled bike and panniers to the oversize luggage X-Ray machine then wandered up to the departure lounge -up and had a fry-up. The time soon went as I read and sprayed on the duty free eau de cologne! The plane left on time and I was up and away to Barcelona. Two hours later I collected the bike enjoying its ride on the carousel and deposited the bike bag at the left luggage office in terminal B. I re-assembled the bike and rode out to El Prat De Llobregat then Avinguda De La Gran Via to Place L’Espanya, left along Carrer De Tarragona, left to Carrer De Cai Celi on to Carrer Del Rector Triadó and my prebooked hotel at 23.00, the Transit Hotel just south of Sants station. I had a beer and sandwich at the end of the road near the station and got my bags organised for my first day out on the bike tomorrow, to bed at midnight.                                                                                                        

                 Holmes Chapel            Hartford                                  17        11

443      Barcelona Prat             Barcelona Sants                      16        10                                            33        20

 Day 2  Friday 16th June          Barcelona to Camprodon       07.30 – 19.00

The hotel didn’t provide breakfast so there was no time wasted getting ready for my first day out on the bike. Along Avinguda Del Paral-lel, N340 to La Magina, then N11A but could find no cycle-friendly road to link with the C55 to Monistrol north of Martorell so had to join a scary main road for a few miles to Abrera. I hope it wasn’t a motorway! As it was I got away with it but hated the constant roar of traffic. Once on the C55, although a busy road, it’s an acceptable cycling route to reach Monistrol then on to Manresa later. From Monistrol the barren road to Montserrat winds around the hillside, a wide sweep to the right under the Montserrat mountain rail track bridge then a swing to the left past the lower monastery that from below was mistaken for Montserrat. On rounding this bend I could see a club rock similar to the one near Chengde, China. This was above the monastery and was glad I wasn’t going that high. At this point are disused buildings on the road, once past these the road continues up then bends to the right.  From that point the road continuation can be seen through the trees above as it heads to the left for the barren rocks that makes Montserrat what it is – the serrated mountain. Just before the wide entrance to the car / coach park before the monastery the road continues on over the mountainside for Barcelona via El Bruc. An hour and half climb from Monistrol, I was very impressed with the location of Montserrat monastery neatly packed on to a wide shelf in front of the towering cliff columns. After a few photos and a late breakfast at the café I was freewheeling back down the mountain for twenty minutes back to the main road. I was glad to be away from the city outskirts now as I was heading north from here to Manresa then the country road through Moia and Seva to the next climb at Coll Formic. Along a busy section to Manresa then took the Berga road for a few miles before taking a right for Moia through green countryside with similarities to home – especially the promise of rain ahead. I had to take shelter at Tona in a café as the rain suddenly became torrential but only lasted for about ½ hour then the air was much fresher. This was all the better for the second climb of the day. Coll Formic is not a difficult pass from the north. I took about an hour to reach the top; this can be seen from most of the way up, crowned with a café on the south side of the road. The usual photos at the top then down the other side to Montseny and left for Fontmartina. Left again off the Viladrau road at a clearing then a grassy area on both sides on an open road signposted as Turo de l’Home. This was easier than going down to Sant Celoni at the southern foot of Coll Formic only to have to climb back up again on a parallel road through Campins. Again it’s not a difficult climb up here with little weight and at about the ½ way point I could see the mast to the right that marks the top. The last part of the climb heads straight for the mast but the area around it is fenced off but the road ends a turn around point just before the gateway in the fence. On the small hill in front of the gate is a large shack perched on the top. Back down the same way but this time a turn to the left and through woods to Viladrau and down the Riera valley to the road that skirts the north of Vic and I was heading for the turn off for Torelló along dusty roads for the foot of the climb to Bracons in a grassy area over a stream. Steadily upwards through Sant Pere then the road became more challenging as grass gives way to rocks and some interesting views across to Montseny. The road summit isn’t up to much but it’s another conquest under my belt. After a brief stop to take a photo with one noisy motorist on his mobile for company I turned tail and took a short while to go back down the same way. In Torelló I branched off to the north. It was about 6.00pm now and I was getting hungry but had my sights on Camprodon as a convenient stopping point for tomorrow’s climbs. I passed through Ripoli then had the first real sight of the Pyrenees before me. I was really pleased to have gotten from coast to the mountains in a day and hoped that the warm weather would hold out tomorrow as I’m in my element if the rain keeps off. I enjoyed the last 15 mile section to where I would look for a hotel. It was cooler now late in the day but great views to the north. I stayed at Hostal la Placeta and had steak, chips and veg with a sangria, together with the accommodation for 56.74€. (£39). I paid my bill tonight so I could leave as early as possible in the morning.

 443      Barcelona Sants  Montserrat BIG 435          56        35        4-734                Olesa, Martorell

 Montserrat                   Turo de l’Home    BIG 433    96        40        734-322-1145-1680                   Manresa/Moia/Seva/Coll Formic BIG 434   

Turo del’Home            Bracons BIG 432       64        40        1680-498-1148                                    Viladrau/Sant Julia/Torello

            Bracons                       Camprodon                        48        30        1148-954                     297      165            (Today’s climb 2738 metres)

                                                                                                  264      145

 Day 3 Saturday 17th June        Camprodon to Collioure         08.00 – 19.00

Pre-arrangements were made at the meal table last night so that I could take a picnic breakfast with me as I really couldn’t eat after the large meal yesterday. I left my bags at the hotel and set out on the road north, Ferrer Barbara and Avenida Maristany for an easy ride to Setcases along a tree lined avenue then the lower climbs of the Vallter 2000 begins passing the back of the houses in Setcases now the road by-passes the village. It’s not a difficult ascent to the ski station at the top of the pass, mainly small trees and bushes lining the road with a few hairpins towards the top, the last few kilometres are a bit steeper but the road is in good condition all the way. At the top there is a path that seems to go over the mountain in the direction of Col de Mantet but it would take a strenuous effort to push the bike over there and it’s certainly not rideable – and my bags were back in Camprodon. I enjoyed the glide back down the mountain, following a small digger to the car park at Hospitalets then a downhill most of the way back to collect my bags and start the 18km scenic climb to Collado d’Ares and the French border. On reaching there I felt that I had ‘come home’ again. The road summit can be seen from a long way down so it gave me a point to head for. At the top on the right is a café so stopped for a coffee and croissant, took some photos and enjoyed the descent in the sunshine to Prats-de-Mollo then took a left to la Preste. I had a coffee at the foot of the pass Collade des Roques Blanches, served by a Scottish lady now living here. She pointed out that the road to the pass is back out of the village a little way then to the left by the La Preste sign. I was trying to find it through the village having passed through on the terrace road above the river. Once there I took the left fork as the right fork only leads to a hotel (Hotel Ribes) even though the road surface seems to indicate that way is the more natural way. From there the road continues for about 8km on tarmac but just after a plaque with a description of the area and rounding the rocks ahead the road becomes a gravel track with a bend to the left by white rocks, however with the right sort of tyres this wasn’t a problem. My tyres are 35mm width with decent tread for an average rough stuff but I wouldn’t like to risk them on long distance routes with this surface. I knew there would be a few stretches on this tour though where I would have no choice because compared to the Alps the roads in the Pyrenees are a poorer surface. It took a while to reach the top with the white rocks crowning the summit. From there I threaded my way carefully down to the road sign again but there are still some pot holes lower down so carefully does it down to la Preste then to the left and back down to Prats-de-Mollo and rode fast along the main road through Amélia to Céret then a lane across to Collioure and the smell of the coast.

443      Camprodon                 Vallter 2000    BIG 431          22        14        954-2150

            Vallter 2000                Camprodon                                 22        14        2150-954

            Camprodon                 Collade des Roques Blanches 56        35        954-1513-735-2252    Collado d’Ares 1513m/Prats de Molo/La Preste

86        Collade des Roques    Collioure         ^BIG 363        88        55        2252-54                       485      283            (Today’s climb 3272 metres)

                                                                                                                188      118

 (also IGN map 72 Camprodon to Quillan)

 Day 4 Sunday 18th June          Collioure to Vernet les Bains  09.00 – 17.00

 I took the Tour Madeloc road following the brown direction signs off the busy main road, finally to a roundabout then the immediate climb on a quiet narrow road up the pass. There’s great views from the ascent and at the top of Tour Madeloc and the coast as far as Canet-Plage but it was difficult to see further because of heat haze. I suppose the top is where the footpath indicates Tour Madeloc as I went down then up again a short distance then down the second hill to Banyuls-sur-Mur and followed the busy main road back to Collioure. I left Collioure along the quieter coast road to Argeles-sur Mur, through Elne then a more pleasant route through Thuir to Bouleternère then the busy road to Prades, passing the string of lakes at Vinca. I wasn’t too impressed with the one road town of close knit shops and was glad to take the road to Vernet-les–Bains a few kilometres further on. I enjoyed the gradual uphill road along here and found a place to stay, the Les Deux Colibris for 38€ and ate cheese crêpes in the evening at the Autrement restaurant, sorted out my bags and went to bed at 11.00pm                                                                   (Photos 5736 – 5738)

 86        Collioure                     Tourmadeloc   BIG 365                      10        6          54-656

            Tourmadeloc               Banyuls                                                     10        6          656-54            

            Banyuls                       Vernet les Bains                                       89        56        54-690                         584      351

                                                                                                                           99        68                                                        (Today’s climb 636 metres)

 Day 5  Monday 19th June        Vernet les Bains to Tarascon              07.00 – 21.30

 It was a really warm and sunny day, perfect weather for a climb to the Canigou Massif at Chalet des Cortalets. I didn’t bother with buying breakfast as I’d eaten enough last night. From the hotel out to the left then an immediate left turn and up past the older part of the town with its quaint narrow streets and uphill along a leafy lane and down again to Fillols. There’s a road back to Prades from here but I continued on to Col de Millères that marks the junction to the right for the road up to Canigou. The road is a bit rough but further on, just past a campsite to the right, the road veers right and becomes a track but it’s perfectly rideable with wide tyres as the surface is mainly clay rather than stone. From the open clearing at the top, after leaving the trees behind, there are great views of the eastern Pyrenees as this is the highest point. The large chalet at the top seems a bit out of place in the wild surroundings. An iron cross among rocks marks the summit. Down again very carefully and back to Vernet, having conquered the biggie I would take in the climb to Col de Mantet. Although a long climb it’s not as difficult as the Canigou peak as the road is a tarmac surface all the way. Over a short rise and down again to Sahorre, a good view at the top through the tree lined route. Through the back streets of Sahorre village and followed the Rotja river as it tumbles down the pass. Easy going as far as Py along a gorge where the road is cut into the cliffs. From Py it’s a steep ascent at first, a bit easier halfway then hairpins to complete the climb to the col, 11 km from Py. There’s some great views looking back towards Sahorre in the valley. At the top of the col are an information board and a radio mast. There’s also a white monument in a fenced off area but who to? Mantet village itself is a further 2 kilometres down the other side of the pass but didn’t want to go there. I retraced my route to Vernet and got a friendly wave from a motorist who recognised me from Vernet last night. I collected my panniers from the hotel and plummeted down the valley to Villafranche and the busy main road to Prades. At the roundabout just before the town I took a left for Moltig spa village. The road is in good condition to this point but deteriates from there to Col de Jau.. I was quite pleased with myself as it was only 3.00 pm and had a really good morning up two major cols, coupled with that it was a beautiful clear day but not hot, perfect for cycling – however it wasn’t to last as it rained later from Montségur to Tarascon. The approach to Moltig-les Bains is impressive with the arched footbridge, thermal baths building and terrace road in front. I stopped to explore a while then continued on up the pass. I had slight confusion at Mosset as the road threads through the village. The majority of the pass from this side is wooded but the final few kilometres rise in a clearing in hairpins to the top. Once there it was an anti-climax as there’s not even a café there! Only a car park and the summit marker so took the obligatory photo and dropped down the other side of the pass and forked right through Ste Colombe village to the Aude gorge at Nantilla to rejoin mad motorists at another busy road in to Axat. I called in at a roadside information office to ask about Montségur and took the main road to Quillan (pronounced Kee-Ann) where we were a few weeks ago arriving by train from Carcassonne for a look around the small town with its ruined chateaux. The main road from Quillan, left after the railway station, wasn’t at all interesting. I was head down as fast as I could until I reached Bélesta then took a right on a quiet lane for a change. On the left after a few kilometres there is a white cliff in to which runs a stream with a stepping stones into the cave. This is called Fontaine de Fontestorbes and was worth a few minutes to explore in to the cave. Plenty of other people were doing the same. On up to Montségur and first the picturesque village on the lower slope of the col. It was worth a short stop for the museum and bookshop as this is a village steeped in Cathar traditions and stories of their final stand in the Fourth Crusade. The château by the side of the pass is a formidable ‘last ditch’ defence. Down the mountain to the main road west of Lavelanet and it was raining now. A short steep section to Nalzen then down again and an easy stretch to Foix but the last few kilometres on the Tarascon to Foix road were like being on a motorway. I looked for somewhere to stay in Foix at 6.30 pm but didn’t particularly like the place – it might have been the rain.

I thought the place far too busy and couldn’t spend a relaxing evening here so would tackle one more climb and head for Tarascon. From the long car park in the centre I found the road indication for Cadirac then the steep narrow road up to le Prat d’Albis and felt like a prat doing this as the weather had turned nasty. It took me three hours to get over the top and down to Tarascon.

Not only was the weather bad but I had come too far today and was losing energy. I just wanted to get over and reach my destination. I kept thinking of what I would like to eat! I took a few photos near the top of the road and valley below looking across to Foix. On reaching the top of the open and barren pass I was disillusioned to find that the road ended at a track but carried on now in mist as well as rain along the track as my Michelin map indicated this was a through route. A few kilometres down and I was relived to find the track became a road again, though rough, the rain had stopped and I emerged from the mist. The last few kilometres were a pleasure even though I was weary. I was relieved to reach the valley road at Saurat and down to Tarascon and found a hotel Place Ste Quitterie by the river where I ate two pasta meals of ravioli and spaghetti carbonera, a beer and ½ litre of red wine and went to bed straight after. Paid 44.50€ for the hotel and breakfast and 18.60€ for my meal (total £44)

     86        Vernet les Bains          Chalet des Cortalets BIG364 20        13        690-1739

            Chalet des Cortalets    Vernet les Bains                              20        13        1739-690

            Vernet les Bains          Col de Mantet BIG 362                   21        14        690-1760        

            Col de Mantet             Vernet les Bains                                  21        14        1760-690

            Vernet les Bains          Col de Jau       BIG 361                     36        22        690-1506

            Col de Jau                   Quillan                                                      50        31        1506-380

            Quillan                                    Montsegur       BIG 356            40        25        380-1059

            Montsegur                   Foix                                                          32        20        1059-350

            Foix                             Prat d’Albis     BIG 355                         10        6          350-1211

            Prat d’Albis                 Tarascon                                                 20        13        1211-480        

                                                                                                                      270      171                                          854      533             (Today’s climb 4475 metres)

 (Also IGN map 71 Quillan to Col de Mente)

 Day 6 Tuesday 20th June         Tarascon to Aules les Bains                08.00 – 19.00

 After a good breakfast shared with Dutch motor bikers I was ‘on the road again’ for an early start but insisted to myself I wasn’t going to do the crippling distance achieved yesterday. Even so I planned to reach two major passes for the first part of the day but first had to tackle the highway down to Ax-les –Thermes, 16 miles of constant drone but I would be rewarded with interesting countryside after that. It took me 1 ½ hours to reach Ax then climbed the short but steep stretch to Ascou and left my bags at the stone gîte at the road junction of the Pradel and Paihères passes at la Forge. From there to Col du Pradel, stopping to fill the water bottles at a fountain opposite a house in Lavail then through the woods along the narrow lane to a clearing then into a clearing, a bend to the left then a wide arc to the right, the road negotiating the best route up the mountainside then a few more twists to the summit. I took the usual photo of the summit marker then turned tail back down the mountain to la Forge and off to the left for the climb up to Port de Pailheres. There’s a restaurant / pub called Station d’Ascou on the wide section of road where cars are parked in the winter months for the chair lifts from here for skiing but it was closed now. Pity really, I would have stopped for a drink. From here the hairpins start for the upper valley. Once in the valley the top can be seen a few kilometres further on as its obvious now where the ridge of the col is. There’s a group of scattered houses a kilometre before the col, a disused restaurant there and Tour de France star names etched in the road. The road to the col veers to the left from here. I stopped at the shelter on the right at the top just in time for a German tourist to take a couple of photos of me. “Macht mein foto, bitte?” “Ya, gute aus sicht!” She had stopped the car a couple of times on the way up and we arrived at the same time. I had a scramble through the rocks to take in the view down the other side then turned tail and enjoyed the downhill glide back to my bags at the gîte and back down to the valley at Ax and rejoined the traffic madness back to Tarascon. I stopped for sausage and chips from a wayside café at a large lay-by halfway then passed through Tarascon to Col de Port, an easy climb except for the end section, again no café at the top, only the car park. Down the tree lined route as far as Iscoy then took the very steep short 3 km to Col de Peguere. The real steepness is on the lower section but it’s still steep enough all the way up. I took a photo of the peculiar stone shelter at the top and had a look at the views from the orientation point on the left. From there it was back down the way I came up and headed for Aules-les-Bains through Massat and Oust. The valley road from Oust towards Aules was a very pleasant ride. In Aules I soon found a place to stay, Les Oussailes for 55€ that included breakfast and a set evening meal that I enjoyed in the garden together with swatting hungry flies with a spare knife. The place is built like a French colonial house that would be more fitting in Africa. It has open verandas and wooden outside stairs but within the building, joining the verandas. Later I had a walk around the village before dark and plenty of time to relax afterwards, unlike last night. I took a couple of photos of the Col de Latrape and Col d’Agnes sign boards at the head of their roads that indicate height and distance of the passes from this position. 

 86        Tarascon                      Col du Pradel  BIG 357          40        25        480-1680

            Col du Pradel              Port de Pailheres BIG 358      18        11        1680-1090-2001                                              La Forge                                  Port de Pailheres         Tarascon                                  44        27        2001-480

            Tarascon                      Col de Peguere BIG 354           33        20        480-1249-947-1389                                        Col de Port 1249m

            Col de Peguere            Oust                                                 28        18        1389-480

            Oust                            Aules les Bains                                 16        10        480-750

                                                                                                                 179      111                                          1033    644             (Today’s climb 3592 metres)

 Day 7 Wednesday 21st June    Aules les Bains to Bagnères-de-Luchon 08.00 – 20.00

 After an early breakfast inside I was out on the road heading for Col d’Agnes, leaving my bags behind to be collected later. The weather was a bit misty and became even worse later. The road is an easy climb to begin with but a series of hairpins brings the road out of the woods into a rocky landscape. The pass was hidden by a final hairpin near the top. Finally in sight were the white outcrops at the top in open country and other than the summit marker, nothing else – but the view down is really good. I went back down the same way and collected my bags from the hotel and rode up the steep section, then a bit easier to Col de Latrape after 6 hairpins then on to Guzet Neige but not too difficult along the tree lined route. I carried on a little way further but reached the end of the tarmac so turned back. Carrying bags on the rough road was risking it a bit and inviting the possibility of punctures. Back to the Latrape road but left this time to Ustou then followed the Alet stream along a minor road to Seix then into Oust for a short stop and to eat. The road over Col de la Core to Castillon was next and it isn’t really steep but it’s a scenic road and quiet. I stocked up in a shop at Oust to ensure I had enough with me to eat then along the wooded road to the barren top and down to Castillon and carried on for Col de Portet d’Aspet where there’s a café and a watering place. There is a memorial to Fabio Casartelli who died in the Tour de France on the other side of the road from the café. There were plenty of cyclists up there, some Italians amongst them who I also met again later at Col de Mentè. I passed over the top in thick mist and quite cold then over Col de Buret and Col des Ares, both lower thickly wooded passes and to St Beat resembling the area south of Snowdonia. From here I biked up to Col de Mentè with its series of hairpins near the top. Again I entered into mist at the top and met the Italian cyclists again. They had me take a group photo with a camcorder strapped on to one of their handlebars – must get one of them, I could imagine the scene on video coming down one of the passes through one of those. I got them to take my photo with my very ordinary 35mm camera, although aged it still produces good photos. It was cold up there and I didn’t look photogenic in bike shorts and rain jacket. Down again the same way and out of the mist into the sunshine again. I collected my bags from behind a bush near the foot of the pass then took the minor road around the next hilly bit on to the road to Bagnères-de-Luchon. The weather was better now. I found a place to stay, the La Rencluse at St Mamet on Avenida Barrau (49€) then left the bags and clambered up the mountain to Col du Portillon and back down again to my digs at St Mamet just outside Bagnères-de-Luchon. At first the road to Col du Portillon is easy going along the Vallée de la Pique opposite the Superbagneres road but soon begins to climb through the woods to the col after a few twists but not really difficult, perhaps even easier because of the rain earlier. I had a pasta and beer at Les Caprices d’Etigny on Luchon main street later then an early night.

 86        Aules les Bains            Col d’Agnès    BIG 353          16        10        820-1580

            Col d’Agnès                Aules les Bains                             16        10        1580-820

            Aules les Bains            Guzet-Neige    BIG 352            10        6          750-1520

            Guzet-Neige                Col de Portet d’AspetBIG        60        37        1520-390-1395-675-1669         Pont de la Taoule, Castillon, Col de la Core

Col de Portet d’Aspet St Beat                                     37        23        1069-520-797-520                           Col de Buret 599m / Col des Ares 797m

            St Beat                                    Col de Mentè  BIG 350      9          5          520-1349

            Col de Mentè              Bagnères-de-Luchon                29        18        1349-625

            Bagnères-de-Luchon   Col du Portillon BIG 425   10        6          625-1293

            Col du Portillon          Bagnères-de-Luchon              10        6          1293-625

                                                                                                            197      121                              1230                764             (Today’s climb 5303 metres)

Day 8  Thursday 22nd June     Bagnères-de-Luchon to St Lary Soulan 09.00 – 17.15

 Time to relax a little this morning but didn’t take breakfast. I had enough stock of fruit, nuts and biscuits to climb Superbagnes and have something to eat there. It was a pleasant ride along the same valley as yesterday evening on the other side of the river as far as Pont de Ravi then a steady climb to Plan du Lis with one steep section then began the real climb, 14 curves to the top, the final two kilometres along a straight section that fooled me a bit as I thought I’d arrived at the last curve where there’s a large car park for the ski lifts. The top was shrouded in mist and the large hotel only became visible as I reached the road sign for Superbagneres near the top before the car park. From the back of the hotel I could look almost vertically down to Luchon a long way below. From here I could see across to the mountains around the Portillon but only the top as the lower parts were enveloped in mist. I didn’t want to eat at the top, besides there was only the gift shop on the left open so I bought a coke for energy then asked a girl passing to take a photo of me at the summit marker (with my own camera of course!). I took another photo of the mountain - Pic de-Céciré – to the west. From that point I did a U-turn and back to Luchon. I collected my bags from the hotel and started off for the Col du Peyresourde. First off though, at the road junction in Luchon with the mountain pass road I spied a cycle shop. I asked inside if he could adjust my back V brake as the left brake was rubbing on the wheel and since Chalet des Cortalets it had been rubbing on the wheel and had to release the brake going up passes, a bit dangerous if there were any downhill bits en-route. At the shop the mechanic pulled out the spring tension so that the brake arm would compress evenly with the opposite brake arm. I was all fixed now – except that my rear brake pads were wearing thin from much downhill braking. I enjoyed the climb up to Col du Peyresourde, immediately up from Luchon. There were road works at Castillon, necessitating one-way traffic controlled by traffic lights which were a bit of a bind on the steep hill up through the village. At the junction with the road to Péyragudes is Chapelle St Pierre situated in a green upper valley perfect for motorists to stop and picnic on the green open spaces. From here the road is an avenue lined with beech trees all to the foot of the final curves up to the pass. It’s a pretty impressive climb with the first curve swinging to the right then three more curves to the top of the pass. From the bottom of the curves it’s easy to see where the top of the pass is reached. Once there it’s a spectacular view either side across Luchon into Spain and east over to St Lary Soulan or the mountains beyond – my exploration ground tomorrow. There’s a café at the top on the right hand side and for once I could ask for something to eat in English as the girl in there was multilingual. It was impressive sitting there eating my omelette listening to her talking to customers in French, German, English and Spanish. While I was there two English cyclists were eying up my bike. I sat with them as they told me they had arrived for a week flying from London to Pau then from Lourdes they had cycled over the Tourmalet and Col d’Aspin now heading for Luchon and east. I wish I could have joined them but I was heading west and told them I hoped to reach Biarritz. As the tour progressed it became obvious that it would be far too optimistic to reach the Atlantic coast and would have to turn back for Barcelona heading east through Spain well before that point or I wouldn’t be able to catch my plane home! Over the col and a long way down to Arreau. I tried to find accommodation there but it was impossible. I continued on to Ilhet and took the narrow potholed mountain road up to Col d’Estivere. I missed this to begin with and took a right where the tarmac gives way to gravel and ended up by a red/white radio mast overlooking the Valée d’Aure. Backtracked down the gravel gully through the woods and noticed the sign for Col d’Estivere that I’d missed on the way up. I took this and rode past grey cliffs on the right, tree lined on the right and eventually a final turn to the right into a clearing and reached the top of the pass. Most of the way along here is potholed tarmac but the final section on gravel. The top was worth the effort but only to say “I did it”. It’s a clearing with partial views west from a makeshift barbecue site, the top marked by an old table and chairs.

 Great for camping but I turned tail and returned the same way after photos, back down a very steep hill to the junction with the gully and on to the narrow lane again back to Ilhet and through Arreau, then Cadéac, a narrow passageway through a brick arch which slows down the traffic on to St Lary-Soulan, eying up tomorrow’s climbs on either side of the town. I found a pleasant place to stay, the La Pergola that set me back 137€ for two nights but I really enjoyed the comfort of that place! I ate pasta at the Izard Café in rue Vincent just south of the centre. One thing I remember was the shower in the hotel, it has a series of jets down the length as well as the shower above so I was well pampered with luxury! An early night and no reason to rush out in the morning. I enjoyed it here and needed the two nights so that I could explore the mountain passes on either side tomorrow and the lake area in Massif du Néouvielle         

85        Bagnères-de-Luchon   Superbagneres BIG 349         19        12        625-1804

            Superbagneres             Bagnères-de-Luchon                  19        12        1804-625

            Bagnères-de-Luchon   Col de Peyresourde BIG 348 18        11        625-1569

            Col de Peyresourde     Col d’Estivere BIG 346             35        22        1569-705-1790            Arreau

            Col d’Estivere (Plateau de Beille)  St Lary Soulan      27        17        1790-795

                                                                                                                    118      74                                1348                838               (Today’s climb 3208 metres)

 (also map IGN 70  Bagnères-de-Luchon to Col de Marie Blanque)

 Day 9 Friday 23rd June           St Lary Soulan / Pla d’Adet / Col Azet / Lac d’Aumar / St Lary Soulan 09.15 – 17.45

 After a very large buffet breakfast with made up meat and cheese rolls, bananas and oranges stuffed into the rear pockets of my cycling vest I must have looked like Quasimodo with a slipped disc as I walked out of the restaurant. My bags were sorted last night so after another shower, etc I was out on the road. Heading north out of the town to a roundabout it was right past a church at Vignec then a gradual rise past some caverns where a coach disgorged a school party on the right for the caves then up to the first curve to the left and a tough climb up to Soulan with great views back down the valley. Soulan is an interesting place, many of the buildings are brown wooden structures. Past here I entered into mist and so had no view down the valley or ahead after 20 metres or so. The road continues to a large road junction with the road to Espiaube and Col de Portet off to the right, just after the curve to the left. I continued on to Pla d’Adet in thickening mist. Towards the top I could hardly see in front. There’s a large car park up there for the winter sports and plenty of cafes on the right. Just before the top the road forks to the right, does a circuit around the buildings then rejoins at the same point, a one way system that’s probably essential when the winter sports kick in. There was really nothing to take a photo of in the mist and made my way back down to the road junction and took the left for Espiaube and hopefully Col de Portet. Through Espiaube and past a public house on the right with a road turning steeply up behind it. This was the road to Col de Portet but wasn’t aware of that at this point. I continued up to a large car park and ski lifts and looked for it imagining it went off to the left along a track and could see that only mountain bikes could tackle that surface. I’m glad I didn’t go that way. A motorist came across with a map asking the way to the same place and from his detailed map I could see that the road for the col started at the lower point passed before so made my way back there along another one way system, took a left then came to the road. I cycled some way up there but not only is the road very steep and the weather so bad at the time it also has too many loose stones. With this combination I wanted to be cautious so didn’t continue on up the pass, however the French motorist I met at the top had gone this way. I turned back and went back down the mountain and out of the mist at Soulan and took a photo down the pass. There’s great views back down the valley over St Lary and across to Col d’Azet, my next climb. I cycled through the back streets and found the road up the next col at the south end of St Lary at a white stone memorial and the bridge over the d’Aure. Up through woods and into the clearing past Estensan, it was very warm now so stopped for a while just beyond Azet village where the road narrows as it does a few twists between the houses. Here I sat by the roadside taking in the view and eating my breakfast doggy bag. With renewed energy I was soon at the top of Col d’Azet / Col du Peyrefite but the mist appeared again at the 1km sign so was cheated again of a good view except briefly over the other side with its series of sharp hairpins down to Vielle Louron. The kilometre markers on all the passes west of Louchon are informative for cyclists as they give the current road gradient and altitude and also the height of the road summit. After a photo and brief stop it was back down the pass to St Lary and left at the memorial for the gradual up along the main road south to Fabian and a stop for an ice cream at a café on the road junction for the lakes to the north. It’s along climb up here and it took a few hours to reach Lac d’Aumar, first through a forest as the road threads its way through Sapinière de Couplan over a small un-named pass then down to the white brick Chalet Restaurant du Lac d’Orédon then leaving the lake up the steep, narrow wooded road to Pic d’Anglade to reach the road end and turning point at Lac d’Aubert on the final rise up after Lac d’Aumar. I stopped a while there, taking in the views now there was no mist, ate the rest of my food from breakfast then tuned tail and back along the same way returning to Fabian. I had a look at the wayside old chapel on the right called  Meyabat then back under the avalanche shelter just before St Lary. I was back in St Lary and found a bike shop where I had my brake pads changed and called back for the bike just before the shop closed. I ate at a café just round the corner from the hotel on the main road and settled down at the hotel after a walk around the town.

85        St Lary Soulan            Pla d’Adet / Espiaube BIG345           13        8          795-1680

Pla d’Adet                  Col d’Azet      BIG 347                            12        8          1680-725-1580

Col d’Azet                  Lac d’Aumar   BIG 342                        34        22        1580-725-2197

Lac d’Aumar               St Lary Soulan                                      23        15        2197-725

                                                                                                                             82        53                     1430                891           

(Today’s climb 3212 metres)

 Day 10            Saturday 24th June     St Lary Soulan to Luz St Sauveur 08.30 – 19.45

 After a very filling breakfast plus a doggy bag for lunch in my cycle top back pockets I was on the road heading north from St Lary, sorry to go as after two days I’d become rather attached to the place! Along a quiet dual carriageway that narrowed down at Cadéac as the road passes through a narrow archway, a few turns downhill then into Arreau, passing the town and its two bridges on the right. Immediately after leaving Arreau the main road continues north but I took the quieter road through the woods that’s parallel with the main road but begins to climb towards Col d’Aspin. At first the way up isn’t difficult as the road crosses the upper reaches of the Aspin Aure, a sharp hairpin to the right then into a clearing and great views down to the Aure valley. Another hairpin, this time to the left and the road becomes steeper. There was a tractor cutting the grass and hedge along here and twigs along the road so had to ride on the left to avoid it, but the road was quiet so no danger. The last thing I wanted was a puncture going up here – or anywhere for that matter. On reflection later it was a miracle that for 1900 miles of cycling on this trip I didn’t have one puncture. I ensured the tyres were pumped to a high 60 PSI from the airport at Barcelona until I returned. At le Fer Cheval (the way of the goats?) I passed a Frenchman who was cycling without ant bags, except those under his eyes. To get over this pass I was fully laden but experience from previous years has taught me the hard way to keep the weight down. I was carrying less clothing, tools and food. I had 3 days change of cloths and washing every two days. I had two spare tubes, allen keys, tyre levers, pump and pedal spanner and food only for each day – such as the doggy bag that I’ll eat later on the Tourmalet. The French cyclist took my photo at the top but I wasn’t too photogenic as one of the cows at the top butted me and a horn caught my chest so the forced smile in the photo was more of a grimace. There’s a great view from the top of the Pic du Midi de Bigorre pointed peak that overshadows the Tourmalet. It was really clear today and looked a light grey colour in the sunlight. I didn’t stay too long at the top of Col d’Aspin as I wanted to go on to Col de Beyrède. The Frenchman told me to go down the pass for about 3km for the first turning to the right. I almost missed it as it was just past a bend swinging round to the left and was descending at a good speed. I braked and checked with another cyclist coming up to ensure this was the right way. I asked in French but he quickly shook is head and pressed on quickly with a disgusted look. What had I done? I then realised, laughing at myself, that I had asked him if he would like to go to Col de Beyrède and not if this was the way to the col. I would have pressed on quickly too, looking at the state of me. I expected a steep uphill to the col but instead it was a leisurely cruise along through the pine trees to reach a clearing and a small hump 2km further on and was surprised to see the sign for the col at a junction of roads. The road to the left comes up from Espiadet further down the pass from Col d’Aspin heading for Ste Marie de Campan after some hairpins so I knew that would be a climb to reach the col from there. I had two choices from the col to the right and east. One road seems to go up a short way, the other goes down through the woods, sometimes very steeply, to Beyrède-Jumet. I decided to go for that one. It seemed to take forever getting back down to the valley, braking on the way because of crossing gullies. The final part of the road is a sharp left turn then a right and straight down the hill emerging opposite Alcan Steel Works and a quarry. I needed to get over to the Col du Tourmalet so in a fit of madness and masochism I rode south to Arreau again, mainly down, then cycled the Col d’Aspin again. There’s something of a familiarity setting in to do the pass twice in a day. This time there was no Frenchman but enjoyed cycling along with a Spaniard from Bielsa for about 2km but language was difficult so he passed on. One good thing, the hedge-cutting tractor had gone and the farmer had swept the road. At the top I drank in the view for a while but was crowded in by white cows that probably caught a whiff of my doggy bag. I picked my way through them and descended to Ste Marie-de-Campan. This is a small village of white buildings, a tall slender church tower and at the foot of the Tourmalet road a toilet, needed to remove cow smell before I eat later. I had a coffee and asked to leave my bags in the café. No problem, they were put behind the counter so I set off with jacket, camera, helmet, money and the personal stuff such as passport and tickets then set off for my next conquest.

From Ste Marie de Campan it’s a steady rise up the Vallée de Gripp, passing through a couple of quiet villages. After Artigues and entering a woody area the road veers to the left and the real climb begins. A turn to the right then a steep section through avalanche shelters to reach La Mongie, a ski-lift village full of cafes and shops on the steep slope. I stopped for an ice tea and met up with a French cyclist who said he came up this road often and had seen it in all weathers. I was glad just to be here once but I enjoyed this climb and hopefully I’ll come again and maybe tackle it from Luz heading east next time. After La Mongie there’s a barren steep section with Pic du Midi de Bigorre prominent ahead. A few hairpins in quick succession so I knew I was nearing the top but this couldn’t be seen until the final metres as the road finally swings to the left revealing the more than life-size silver cyclist mounted on the sloping wall to the left of the road. On the left just past that is a gift shop and on the other side of the road a café that has cycling photos plastering the walls. On entering there’s a pile of old newspapers in a box for cyclists to help themselves to. If it’s a cold decent the idea is to do what the Tour de France riders do; stuff them between chest and cycle jersey to keep from freezing. There was a group of English cyclists at the top who had come up from Luz. One was a very well proportioned fellow and I wondered how he managed to propel himself up there balanced on a bike. He was saying to the others as they set off down to Campan “Going down, brake with one hand then the other, pump action” I tried this myself on the way back down later but my usual way is to use both brakes together, it feels safer. I can see the logic of only half the brake wear but brake blocks are cheap enough. I bought a cowbell (cloche) from the gift shop and some post cards, took photos from the summit – great views looking west then freewheeled down the mountain back to St Marie de Campan and collected my bags. Looking back at this afterwards I don’t know why I didn’t take them up to Col du Tourmalet and cycle down to Luz as what I did next was to head for Luz St Sauveur but the long way round through Bagnères-de-Bigorre, Loucrup and Lourdes. I took a photo of Pic du Midi de Bigorre far away, from Arcizac then pedalled on. It was very easy going this way except for a slight rise from before Loucrup but then a gradual descent to Lourdes. I suppose I did it because I wanted to see Lourdes again but it was so busy that I only passed through. I didn’t like the road through Bagnères either. The last time I was in Lourdes was about 30 years ago when I was into backpacking by train around Europe. I stopped off here for a couple of nights travelling between Hendaye and La Tour de Carol on my way to Perpignan. I saw all the sights then so would leave it at that, passed through and headed south on a long road through Argèles-Gazost and Pierrefitte then followed the long gorge, which I think is spectacular and finished in Luz totally exhausted. It didn’t take long to find a good hotel on the edge of the town, changed, bathed (a long one!), washed a few clothes and sorted out my bags and tomorrow’s wear then went down for the fixed menu. It was very good; four courses of starter salmon salad, soup – a huge container that I could ladle out from – just for me, steak (bein cut) and chips and fruit salad to finish. Naturally I needed a couple of beers to help down that lot so had two dark Pelforth beers. I was so full! This would see me through tomorrow morning so glad I wasn’t taking breakfast. This, and accommodation, set me back €62.00 (£43) but was worth it. I snored well that night.

85        St Lary Soulan                        Col d’Aspin    BIG 344          25        16        725-1489

            Col d’Aspin                Col de la Beyrede BIG 343                   4          2          1489-1417

            Col de la Beyrede       Beyrede-Jumet / Col d’Aspin       30        19        1417-630-1489

            Col d’Aspin                St Marie de Campan                               13        8          1489-660

            St Marie de Campan   Col du Tourmalet BIG 341             17        11        660-2115

            Col du Tourmalet        St Marie de Campan                         17        11        2115-660

            St Marie de Campan   Lourdes                                                40        25        660-700                                   Bagnères-de-Bigorre/Montgaillard

            Lourdes                       Luz St Sauveur                                       31        20        700-710                      

                                                                                                                       177      112                              1607       1003            (Today’s climb 3128 metres)

Day 11  Sunday 25th June       Luz St Sauveur to Argeles-Gazost 08.15 – 20.00

 Sarl Hotel de Londres on rue du Pont de Luz was a good place to stay. I collected my bike from the lock up down the steep ramp, pushed it up to the road then cycled off south past Pont Napoleon heading south for Gavarnie. After the Tourmalet this was the highlight of my tour. The road down to Gavarnie was a pleasure to experience. Slightly up all the way the road follows the Cave de Gavarnie or the Gavarnie Gorge. The upper part from Gèdre southwards is particularly spectacular but this was nothing compared to the road up to Port de Gavarnie itself. The road closely follows the river upstream the last few kilometres then over cobbles to Gavarnie tourist trap where there’s plenty of car parking space on the right for walkers. I had a coffee and warm breakfast roll in a café as I hadn’t eaten today as yet then had some fruit. A look in at the tourist information office to ask about the road and weather conditions for Port de Gavarnie and Cirque de Troumouse then started off up the tough climb to Port de Gavarnie to the right (west) of the village. The road forks after the first turn, left for Port de Gavarnie and the Spanish border, right for Ossoue cascades that must be worth a visit some future year. I took the left and panted up a series of steep twists and turns through barren countryside to eventually reach a car park where I was glad to leave the pesky cars behind as motorists couldn’t continue past this point though I could by bike. The road from the car park is scattered with boulders that I had to pick my way through. At one point it was better to get off rather than risk falling down the mountain slope to the left. The way continues for about 2 kilometres until the road peters out at a stony track at the top ridge. Here are some vertical stones that are probably right on the border. I took some time here taking in the view, especially back down the pass and the upper valley to the right, at the end of which is Breche de Roland (Roland’s Breach), a gap in the cliffs. Looking down towards Spain isn’t so interesting as it’s steep, greener and an electric pylon mars the scene. There is a track down there and the IGN map #70 shows it but it certainly isn’t rideable, not even by mountain bike because it’s too steep and rough – for walkers only. At the top I saw snow by the road, don’t think I saw anymore on my travels in the Pyrenees. I turned the bike round, threaded in and out of the boulders carefully then freewheeled back down to Gavarnie, stopping a few tomes to take photos. From Gavarnie an easy ride following the river back as far as Gedre then took a right fork heading up immediately among trees and eventually to the clearing at Pont de Saurrouy following the Cave de Héas (Héas Gorge) past the turn off to the right that goes over a wooden bridge up to Barrage des Gloriettes, a large lake that might be worth a visit on a future trip. There’s a series of fairly easy gradient hairpins from Chapelle de Héas to the café to the left of the road, the Auberge du Maillet. I stopped for about ¾ of an hour and had sugar and lemon crêpes and lemonade then continued up the mountain passing a series of spectacular waterfalls for a tougher series of hairpins and too many cars and reached the large car park overshadowed by Cirque de Troumouse mountain range. I got a Frenchman to take my photo, nothing to stop long for as there was no real view except down from the way I came so back down the mountain but careful on the brakes down to Auberge du Maillet but OK afterwards as I passed the family I said ‘hello’ to on the way up, picnicking that were quickly clearing up because it just started to rain. I was fortunate in making it back down to Gedre in time as I left the rain behind. It was dry in the valley as raced back down to Luz St Sauveur. I stopped to have a look at Pont Napoleon, a bridge with a single arch that spans the river gorge. From here I started climbing again for Luz-Ardiden again through trees to begin with as far as Sazos then into the clearing up many twisting sections, eventually to a road junction. I made the mistake of taking the right turn and reaching the end of the road at a car park and looked across to the left (south) and saw the ski station where I should be so back down as far as the junction and followed a few more road bends to the Aulian chair lift, deserted in the summer. There was nobody here and no wonder as I finished taking a photo the heavens opened and I quickly made my way back down the mountain to Luz. It was about 4.00pm now and still wanted to climb to the Pont d’Espagne before calling it a day at some point north of that. The road from Luz to Pierrefitte was dry in the valley and sheltered much of the way by the wall of the gorge.

At Pierrefitte a turn to the left and followed the Cave de Cauterets (Cauterets Gorge) in dismal conditions as the sky was really overcast. Nearing Cauterets the valley opens out as far as la Raillère where the road does a peculiar twist at a one way system round a disused building then shortly afterwards the shops and cafes for the Pont d’Espagne are reached. I had an ice cream, Magnum, then pressed on the final 6 kilometres to the Bridge of Spain. This time the weather kept dry as I reached the ticket entrance but it was unmanned so I cycled to the right of it and round rather then get off and walk the steps. From here it’s about 0.5 kilometre along a rhododendron path to the bridge itself. I took a couple of photos at the end of the path from an adjacent wooden bridge to Pont d’Espagne that spans the river gorge, walkers only from this point, then back the same way and a photo of Cascade du Cerisey about halfway back down to Raillère, Cauterets again and the gorge, through Pierrefitte and an easy road up to Argeles-Gazost. I found a place to stay almost right away on the Lourdes road close to a petrol station and supermarket. This was the Hotel Printania, a pink building that stands out from all the others. I could clearly see it from halfway up the Hautecam the following day. The accommodation, breakfast and set evening meal set me back €87 (£59) but who cares, I’m on holiday!   Like last night the meal was very filling as the French take a pride in food, I slept well that night.

  85        Luz St Sauveur           Port de Gavarnie BIG 339        33        21        710-2208

            Port de Gavarnie         Cirque de TroumouseBIG340 37       23        2208-1071-2100          Gèdre

            Cirque de Troumouse  Luz-Ardiden   BIG 338            38        24        2100-710-1720

            Luz-Ardiden               Pierrefitte                                          19        12        1720-975

            Pierrefitte                    Pont d’Espagne BIG 336              18        11        975-1496

            Pont d’Espagne           Argeles-Gazost                               25        15        1496-420

                                                                                                                  170      106                          1777                1109            (Today’s climb 3858 metres)

 Day 12 Monday 26th June       Argeles-Gazost to Larrau 07.15 – 20.30

 Today was supposed to be another highlight crossing the remaining passes in the French Western Pyrenees but it was the worst day weather-wise as it was low cloud resulting in limited visibility and rain, especially near the top of the Hautacam. After a good breakfast and raring to go, fully charged and feeling fit I made my way west on the Hautacam road as it threads through the town suburbs. I was in Ayros in half an hour at the foot of the Hautacam, then through the interesting village of Arbouix, really rural with close knit red cottages and hens scuttling about. From here it is a fairly easy gradient between the trees reminiscent of home as the area is so green. Every kilometre is indicated by a bike sign on a pole with the gradient, current altitude and summit altitude on the plate, as is usual on most of the climbs in the French Pyrenees. I took a photo by one after a few kilometres near Artalens-Souin as it had started raining and couldn’t be sure if I would get another opportunity. It was a good thing I did as the top was shrouded in mist and very wet and the only photo I have is of a damp car park! A few kilometres from the top in heavy rain and very limited visibility I was overtaken by a cycle race. About 20 bikers whizzed past me putting me in my place. I took a while longer reaching the top where there was one lone car, a cyclists support car as they had reached the top, booked in their times at the top and just past me as I reached the top. Needless to say the French in the support car totally ignored me! I had left my bags back at the hotel but it was obvious I wasn’t one of the bunch. I turned around and came out of the clouds and the rain when I reached Artalens and suddenly I had sunshine and warmth again but it wasn’t to last. Back to the lower green slopes then through the streets passing another cycle race starting off at the bottom of the pass heading for the top. One woman was kneeling in the centre of the road framing a photo of her son or husband coming up. She was facing the other way so didn’t see me flying down the road towards her. I could see her but it made her jump as I passed her! Back to the hotel, collected my bags then took the road west out of Argeles heading for Arrens-Marsous, a gradual uphill. I stopped here a while to buy some bread and cheese from a delicatessen in front of the church. This is a quaint village of interesting buildings around a small centre. On from here and the road suddenly becomes narrower and steep as it winds its way up to Col de Souler. It’s a tough ascent for 8 kilometres, many hairpins climbing away from Arrens. I came into low cloud again nearing the top of the pass, but not as bad as on the Hautacam. I stopped for a coffee at the summit café on the left. The bartender was talking about me to others in French saying he didn’t think that England would do well against Portugal in their World Cup match today. I could understand him but found it hard to give my invited opinion in French so he spoke in English putting me to shame. It would be the equivalent of the landlord at the Cat & Fiddle in our Peak District reverting to speaking French to a French customer, it couldn’t happen! On the bike a short way then came to the boundary marker between Hautes Pyrènèes and Pyrènèes Atlantiques by a cascade. There wasn’t much else to take a photo of because the low cloud had now become a thick mist but at least it wasn’t raining, however it did at   Col d’Aubisque later. The road narrows after Col de Souler and even though I couldn’t see it there’s a drop to the north of the road but I was cycling blind other than a few metres in front, there was no view and I was really disappointed. I’ll have to cycle this pass again some future year in better conditions. At the top at 1.00pm I took a photo of the summit marker stone indicating 30km to Argeles and 12km to Eaux Bonnes and had a look around the two gift shops on the north side of the road, dodging wild horses wandering around the parked cars for tit-bits. I bought a souvineer of the Aubisque peak with a cyclist motif on it that has pride of place now at home! In the other shop / café a Dutch group were singing and strumming a guitar. I bought a few postcards then freewheeled down the pass to Eaux Bonnes where there’s a large thermal spa building just over the crossroads. I was out of the mist at this point and the rain stopped until the next climb. There’s good views north on the lower descent towards Laruns. Stopped at the main road to look at the map in a lay-by then took the main road north along the valley to Bielle and the ascent of the Col de Marie Blanque. The valley road follows the course of the Cave d’Ossau passing open fields. It’s very rural here and up the pass as far as Bilhères after a few road twists.

Later the road becomes steeper as it passes through woods and there’s nothing wonderful about the summit, not in thick mist anyway. There are no buildings or wide parking places at the summit, just space for a few cars but I was alone up there. The brown rusty road summit marker is leaning on the end of a pile of pine logs. From the top emerging from the mist and the rain and entered Escot, there’s a very steep section on the way down. I took a photo of the white houses lining the narrow street as I passed through to Lurbe on the lane parallel to the main road. Passing through the village I joined the main road for the Somport but soon off to the west for Arette. There was a youth cycle race around the village going on as I passed through with some road diversions that made it confusing. I stopped a short while to watch the race then took the road south through along green lanes that eventually became quite steep the nearer I got to Col Pierre St Martin. I had a coffee at la Mouline at the foot of the climb then began the long 20km climb to the summit. Most of the way it’s green and there are some steep sections. My impression was that it’s a long arduous climb. The green gave way to barren limestone for the last few kilometres after the turning for Col de Boeuzou as I hit the mist again, fortunately the clouds parted at the summit and the Spanish side was clear. Another cyclist was on his way up from that side, walking but it is a steep part just below the summit. I took a photo of the border stone with ‘F’ for France and ‘E’ foe Spain (Espana) and saw that the landscape is different on the Spanish side, mainly clumps of bushes and limestone as opposed to the greener (and wetter) French side. It’s a long way down the south side of the pass to a very different warm climate along the upper valley to Portillo de Eraice and a long way down to the warmth of Isaba, the first Spanish town. Just past a petrol station I took a right before the town and cycled up the scrubland through Uztárroz  to Alto Laza with great views all around of barren hills different from the greenness of the French side of the Pyrenees. I took a photo in each direction then descended into Valle del Roncal and a right turn at the foot of the pass for the French border again at Port de Larrau alongside Pic d’Orhy, the most westerly Pyrenean peak over 2000 metres. I took a few photos towards the top from the Spanish side, reminiscent of the approach to Molls Gap from Kenmare in Kerry, Eire – except that it’s a lot higher! The road summit is rocky limestone on both sides. I took a photo of the summit marker at the open car park space – nothing else up there – then over Col d’Erroymendi and a quick descent into Larrau just as it was getting dark. There are two hotels here but only the more expensive one could offer evening meals so I plumbed for that, the Hotel Restaurant Etchémaïté at 79€ (£55). Sitting on my own and others drifted in from the hotel and around the village at the final sitting at 21.00. It was a set menu complete with a bottle of red wine and served professionally by the waiter dressed in white with white dicky bow. I thought this was going to cost me something in the morning!  Really it didn’t, it was a set dinner with the accommodation price and I wasn’t charged extra for the wine. I should have had two bottles like on Eurostar. I could always have put one in my bike flask. That evening I ate and slept very well and soon left the land of hills for the land of nod. 

 85        Argeles-Gazost           Hautecam        BIG 337             20        13        420-1615

            Hautecam                    Col d’Aubisque BIG 334              50        32        1615-430-1450-1358-1709      Col du Soulor (1450m)

            Col d’Aubisque           Col de Marie BlanqueBIG333    37       14        1709-531-420-1035    Laruns / Bielle (420m)

            Col de Marie Blanque Col Pierre St Martin BIG 332   51       31        1035-330-250-1760    Lurbe 330m / Arette / Pas de Guilhers (1436m)

            Col de la Pierre St Martin       Port de LarrauBIG 420 48      30        1160-815-1129-900-1585 Portillo de Eraice, Isaba (815m)/Alto Laza (1129m)

            Port de Larrau             Larrau                                                  12        8          1585-304                                         Col d’Erroymendi                       

                                                                                                                    218      138                        1995                1247            (Today’s climb 5650 metres)

 Day 13            Tuesday 27th June       Larrau to Ayerbe 09.00 – 20.15       

The main reason for coming this far west was to bag the Col Bagargui nearby but the weather was against me this morning. The weather had turned even more nasty, visibility was down to about 200 yards so would be even worse higher up. Coupled with that the rain was torrential! I waited in the hotel a while and had breakfast in a stuffy small room at a rickety table. I was glad to get out of there and sat by the main entrance for a while willing the rain to ease, fortunately it did before long so I was ‘on the road again’ as the song goes, along Gave de Larrau to Montory.

I was disappointed that I couldn’t attempt the climb to Col Bagargui but there’s always another year if I look after myself (and circumstances allow). Yesterday I resigned myself to accepting that it wouldn’t be possible to reach the Atlantic coast and should have arranged for a return flight from that area rather than back in Barcelona. I had now set myself the ordeal of having to return to Barcelona airport by next Sunday unless I can get train help. As it was I didn’t use the train except from the centre of Barcelona to the airport. There are no train lines that go parallel with the Pyrenees in Spain unless I go a long way south. I knew it was possible within France as I can go from Pau to Perpignan then south to Barcelona but I wanted to take in some of the Spanish and Andorran passes.

The lane to Montory, although visibility was low, is a pleasant quiet green lane reminiscent of any country lane back in England. A slight uphill to Lanne then right for Arette yet again, having come round in a wide circle from yesterday. At Lurbe this time I joined the flow of traffic on the main road south to Col du Somport and a steady uphill along a long, straight road with the valley gradually narrowing and turned off to the right before the tunnel for the col. I reached the top after 5km of fairly easy gradient that was a refreshing change from the main road that I could no longer hear as it entered the 11 kilometre tunnel. I followed the old road over the twin cols of Col du Somport and  Collado de Somport, passing through Candanchu where I stopped for an ice cream from a shop then down the pass following  Rio Aragon and joined the main road again just after Estacion Canfranc   where it emerges from the tunnel. I was now on the wide road heading for Jaca but it wasn’t as busy as on the French side. It’s a long downhill through Canfranc into Jaca at top speed then uphill on a baking hot road with Mediterranean trees and bushland on the climb to Puerto de Oroel (1080m) and stopped for a photo and of the unusual shape of the mountain behind, Peña de Oroel. The real reason was to drink plenty of the Isostar energy juice that I badly needed in the heat, so different than on the French side of the mountains. The weather was a complete contrast also, it was a beautiful deep blue sky but paid for it with the heat. After the pass the road goes up and down through a wooded area until tiny Bernués is reached – only a few old houses then through barren country until reaching Rio Gállego, a wide river crossed at the junction of the main road from Pamplona. Just passed here are some outstanding high, sheer red cliffs facing the road across the river. This is the Los Mallos and worth a few photos. Past this the road becomes barren again after crossing the river but I was soon in Ayerbe. I asked at a small supermarket, on the right on a parallel side road opposite a petrol station, if there were any hotels in the town. I was directed to one off to the right but don’t have the name as this time I paid my bill in cash, no receipt given. It was a simple hotel but didn’t serve meals. I made do with a paella and San Miguel beer from a café nearby and settled down for an early night.

 85        Larrau                          Col du Somport BIG 421       87        55        304-1632                                             Montory / Arette / Lurbe

            Col du Somport          Jaca                                                34        21        1632-820                                                        

42        Jaca                             Ayerbe                                            60        37        820-1080-567                                      Pto de Oroel 1080m / Los Mallos

                                                                                                              181      113                              2176                1360            (Today’s climb 1588 metres)

Day 14 Wednesday 28th June  Ayerbe to Benasque 08.30 – 20.00

 It was very dry and dusty as I set off after churros and coffee at a bar near the hotel. I turned off along the road for Castillo de Loarre before the weather got too warm and took the bags as on examining the map this pass wasn’t a major climb and should take under the hour to reach the back of the castle. Past a holiday area to the left the road rises between light brown earth that hasn’t seen water for a while and the low bushes, then a few hairpins to the castle, the road approaching the castle from the rear but all the way up, looking at the castle, it’s an impressive sight glistening in the sun, long flags waving from the turrets. It would have been an impregnable fortress at the time. I took a few photos up there when a car drew alongside and a lady told me that I couldn’t enter the castle today as it was closed. I said I was here for the climb and wasn’t interested in looking around it. I didn’t have the time anyway as I wanted to cover some distance again today. I rode down another road to Esquedas and into Huesca, a hive at activity at 11.00 a.m. I’m glad I didn’t stop here last night as this place is too noisy. I passed through on wide, busy roads and followed the signs for Barbastro. I hated this road, it was too wide and too busy, almost a motorway. There wasn’t anything of interest along here so head down and sped along at a good rate to reach Barbastro then took a left with indications for Graus. Along here the road passes through some tunnels which is great for cars but not for me. I wasn’t happy with the constant roar of vehicles and was a relief to reach Embalse de Barasone lake where I lay for a while on the beach at 5.00 p.m. After some fruit, nuts and energy drink I set off again on the final part of my trip today on the quieter road to Benasque, following the Rio Esera and becomes narrower north of Murillo as it follows the gorge and between very high rock walls to the turning for Castejón. There was a lot of dumper trucks around this area and soon found out that the road was being widened in this area to take out the sharp bends. Just before reaching Benasque there’s a couple of lakes to the right then into the town with its brown brick and wooden houses and hotels. This is another ski resort town, for the Cerler overlooking the town. This is one more climb for tomorrow. I found somewhere to stay just off the main road, Hotel Arageülls, two star on Avda. Los Tilos Benasque, at 37.40€ (£26). I walked around the town after booking in, an interesting place with cobbled streets and rustic buildings – but definitely built for the tourists. I called in at the tourist information office by the small square to find out about the Cerler and Collado de Sahun climbs and had a pizza and San Miguel in a quiet restaurant that soon filled up until there were no seats left. Later at the hotel I grabbed my passport from the reception as I wasn’t happy leaving it on show in the slot by the side of the desk. I had an early night after a hot chocolate in the hotel bar as I wanted to reach some point near to Andorra tomorrow and explore a new country, even though it’s small enough to fit into Cheshire.

 42        Ayerbe                                    Castillo de Loarre BIG 422    13        8          567-1060

            Castillo de Loarre       Huesca                                                   30        19        1060-466

            Huesca                                    Benasque                                       143      90        466-1138                                             Barbastro

                                                                                                         186      117                    2362                1477            (Today’s climb 1165 metres)

 Day 15 Thursday 29th June     Benasque to Seo de Urgel 07.00 – 21.45

 I was the first one up for breakfast this morning and had bread, meat, cheese, cereal, plenty of coffee and orange juice and stuffed my cycle vest with oranges and bananas. After paying my bill I left my bags at the reception and took the road north then off to the right for a steady climb to Cerler village on a wide good surface road, plainly built for the ski-trippers. From here the road goes through the village of ski shops and apartments, down a bit to a roundabout with flags in the centre then up the continuation past a military base on the right, still a good surface wide road, up to Pico de Cerler following the stream with a few hairpins on the final stretch to reach the chair lifts. After a few photos it took me about 20 minutes to get back down to Benasque, collected my bags and headed of south back down the valley to just before the Castejón turning and took the road to the right heading steeply up to Chía. I had a coffee at the only bar in the village and asked to leave my bags there explaining that I wanted to cycle the Collado de Sahun. To reach this from the village I rode the steep narrow street to the right of the bar until the tarmac ended at an indication for Plan to the right along a cobbled road between walls. Up here a short way I reached a red/white radio mast, to the left of this and gentle up on gravel for a while parallel with Casania mountain to the left then steeply up to the pass at the head of the mountain gap with the southern arm of Bagüeñola mountain to the north but it was rideable. The road summit is barren with no indication of the pass height. I took a photo then doubled back down the track and cobbles back into Chía to collect my bags. From here back down the mountain through scrubland to reach the main road and across to Castejón de Sos over a narrow wooden river bridge and passed through the village climbing up to Coll de Fadas with some great views north and south in places as the road passes by trees either side. There’s nothing to see at the top, just the brown pass marker altitude board and some support cars for cyclists in a race who were behind me and would have easily overtaken me. I didn’t stay to be overtaken but continued on along to the lower pass at Coll de Espina, a bit barren up here, just a turning for a place called Neril to the north, the usual summit marker and car lay-by. I asked a motor cyclist parked there to take a photo of me with my camera – he refused! I’ve never had that done to me before. Maybe he hates English. I should have asked in German – no his family may be Spanish socialists. As John Cleese says “Don’t mention the war”.  Down from here among scrubland to the main road from Lleida to Viella and into sudden traffic. It’s a busy road through Bono (U2 could be here) to the Viella tunnel and reached stalemate. I wasn’t sure if I was permitted to cycle through the 5km tunnel but the volume of traffic put me off. I wanted to be cautious and live to tell my story so swallowed pride and thumbed up to get a lift with the bike through the tunnel, picking a safe place where some willing motorist would stop. I resigned myself to the thought that I would be here a while but Spanish motorists are pro-cyclist and it wasn’t long before a Spaniard with an open top van stopped, glad of the company I could understand he was on his way home from work as he chatted continually. He was praising his wife’s cooking that he was looking forward to! He dropped me off at a petrol station in Viella where he was approached by a Canadian hiker who wanted a lift through the tunnel. I told him we had just passed through there so he tried another on the forecourt. Lifting the bike out of the back of the van I was away again on two wheels through a strangely alpine looking area at Salardú, the buildings look very un-Spanish and will be more in keeping in the French Alps. There were some roadworks around the villages here but above that the road narrows and a series of hairpins begins and I was peering over the edge to a long valley below, through which runs a wide track following the de Ruda stream but must come to an end at the head of the valley. It took me about an hour to reach the top where there’s a café to the left open so had an ice cream, Magnum. Also on the door was (I repeat was) a poster of the upcoming Tour de France that would pass through here on 13th July. I had better get a move on before they catch up with me. On the other side of the road is the chair lift station but of course it was closed in summer. Workmen were constructing around the area.

 After a photo at the pass marker I continued on, down now to Sorpe and stopped to have a look at the stone chapel to the left of the road, opposite a public house. Past marshland after Esterri and to Espot up a steep road, taking a right by a petrol station, a wide curve to the right then left steeply and soon in Espot. There’s a small wooden tourist office to the right in the village so asked about the road along to the lake, Llac de Sant Maurici and told it was a steep road up there and narrow. There was also roadworkings going on outside the village. The lake was steady climb of 8 km through woods and a great view on approaching it. The area is left to nature and is a lonely place. From Espot and return no cars passed me and I saw no one so was alone with my thoughts. It would have been good to linger and take in the peaceful scene for a while and perhaps find somewhere to stay in Espot but I remembered there was a large bunch of girl guides staying at a hostel by the tourist office so it wouldn’t be quiet! There was also the pull of wanting and needing to reach Seo d’Urgel this evening if I’m to explore Andorra tomorrow and keep up with my schedule. I sped back down to Espot, took a photo of the quaint stone bridge over the river here then back down to the main road. I moved quickly on to Llavorsi, being slightly confused here at the road junction at the river thinking I needed to go right but that was further on at Sort, an easy ride at top speed following the river. I was conscious of time and must get over Coll de Canto to reach Seo before dark. It isn’t really a difficult pass but took 1¼ hours to reach the top, some steepness and bends lower down but otherwise steady going through open bushland to reach the red /white radio mast at the top, to the left of the road. There’s nothing really remarkable about the pass, no buildings up there but good views of the mountains, especially to the north. I enjoyed the descent to Adrall and left (north) on the busy main road for the few miles down into Seo de Urgel. Coming down into the town I followed the Andorra signs then turned off a tree lined avenue to the right and into the town. The main shopping arcade street had national flags hanging vertically by wires over the length of the street. Just off the street and on the main road I found Hotel Andrea, three star at Ma Rosa Sort Boixedera, La Seu d’Urgell, Lleida for 56€ (£39), trundled the bike up the steps and left it locked on the outside veranda. After a bath and change I ate at a pizzeria on the road under canvas cover , just outside the hotel. I had a cheese pizza, 2 San Miguel beers and  espagettis (spaghetti) carbonara for 15€ (£11), asked for ‘la quenta’, the bill and not la conta  - the child’s counting book!  - as I was corrected. Back to the hotel and nodded off at 11.00 p.m.

 42        Benasque                     Cerler  BIG 424                               6          4          1138-1911

            Cerler                          Sahun Collar   BIG 423                   18        12        1911-1138-2010                                  Chia

            Sahun Collar               Vielha                                                 61        41        2010-1000-1470-974                          Coll de Fadas (1470m)

            Vielha                          Peurto de la BonaiguaBIG 426    16     10        974-2072

443      Peurto de la Bonaigua Espot/Llac de Sant Maurici 45        29        2072-940-1905                                    Llac de Sant Maurici BIG 427

            Espot                           Coll del Canto BIG 428                   57        35        1905-694-1722                                    Sort (694m)

            Coll del Canto             Seu d’Urgell                                      32        20        1722-620

                                                                                                                    235      151                       2597                1628            (Today’s climb 5206 metres)

 Day 16            Friday 30th June          Seu d’ Urgell to Puigcerda 07.30 – 23.00

 A good breakfast and plenty of fruit and a couple of made up meat rolls stuffed in my cycle vest pockets later for lunch! Riding out along the main road I followed the Andorra signs and was soon on to a busy wide main road  heading for a small country with big roads. From Seo to the border I was following a stream that I could hardly see because of the traffic volume. I was waved through at the border and passed on to Sant Juliá, after a quick check of the map an immediate steep climb up to Bosc de la Rabassa, some very steep sections along here and followed a fairly good surface road to the mountain at the border and returned the same way through the busy small town and on to an even busier Andorra la Vella that’s just like any city until you look up to the mountains to realise this place can’t be as big as the city streets makes it out to be with high risers everywhere. From every direction roads spider out to the ski resorts that surround it. One is the road to Port d’Ordino, at first through a series of small but scary tunnels as gradient made progress slow through these with plenty of traffic thundering through, a jam packed road with mad traffic as far as La Massana then relieved to find it more peaceful on the road after Ordino and right on a black smooth newly surfaced road up to the pass. There is a walkway at the top on the right and worth the clamber over the rocks for the view (Mirador Roc del Quer) of the valet below, from the capital and along to the east as far as the rise for Port d’Envalira. It was the only view I had of it because on the way out of the country later thick pea soup had descended and I was in it as far as the climb to Puymorens on the other side. Over the top and down the serpentines to Canillo. The road along here is built up in places with supporting walls to accommodate the hairpins away from the side of the mountain. The road up from Andorra and down to Canillo is also a very good smooth surface. Back down to the capital I took the same road through the scary tunnels to la Massana but this time took a left and stopped to take a photo of the village from the lower part of the climb towards Coll de la Botella, surrounded by the mountains and nestling in the valley. Higher up towards the col the road is still a good surface as it climbs up among cropped grass on either side, low spruce trees and white rocks then more barren higher up as I passed a footpath sign for Pic Alt de la Capa 2572m, though the mountain itself is 2629m, perhaps this is the height that the path reaches. A yellow painted indication to the path is on a nearby white rock. Back down to la Massana and the day is perfect for cycling. I was going to push myself hard today  and attempt to explore all the roads leading to the ski resorts and passes and head out east for Pas de la Casa later and hopefully further. Back down to La Massana and took the road north for Port de Rat. I passed through Llorts village on the way to Port de Rat, north of the capital. This is an interesting village of grey/brown stone and brown shutters and window framing huddled together around a small chapel at the top of a flight of stone steps. This place was also worth a couple of photos, the mountains to the north as a backdrop. I followed the stream along a fairly easy climb to El Serratt then tougher after El Castellar where the series of hairpins go up the mountain in quick succession just past some stone buildings and café and the bottom of a ski run. The way to Port de Rat becomes a rideable gravel track after passing the ski station at the top of the hairpins by the lakes where I stopped for a Magnum ice cream and sat a while in the sun. I took a photo of the pass ahead from an old circular sheep pen of dry stones. A few kilometres further along an obvious white gravel track that gradually climbs the white hill range, veering left then near the top a bend to the right and to the French border at the ridge, a great view down from here to both sides. Back down the same way and checked my timing. It seemed possible to make it to Pas de la Casa with one further climb before heading east out of the country. Saying goodbye to Andorra la Vella I took the road out indicated for Encamp through busy city streets and took a right near a petrol station for a steep narrow road among the house at first then farmland complete with smells on a quiet country road leading nowhere as I soon discovered the road through  Els Cortals ends at the ski station at Coll de la Devesa. I took a photo looking back down the pass by a huge imitation rock that’s hollow with a climbing ladder and footways. There’s a small farming village to the right about halfway down the pass among the white rocks and short grass, photo taken. Back down the same way to Encamp then took a right heading east and out for France at about 6.00pm.

I passed Santuari di Méritxell near Canillo on the Andorra la Vella to Port d’Envalira road, a small church by the roadside made of the same local stone as the houses at Llorts seen earlier. This was worth a short stop but the church was locked and on a close look it’s better seen from outside than next to the building as it’s the local stone that appeals. The road follows the stream and rises gradually towards Soldeu. This place has liqueur shops at every other shop but this was nothing compared to what I saw later at the Bonanza City of Pas de la Casa. I didn’t stop but continued on up the lower slopes of Port d’Envalira. From the start of the hairpins leading up to Port d’Envalira until the other side of Pas de la Casa marked and marred by the huge duty free shopping bonanza of high rise buildings the weather reserved its very worst me on the whole tour as I couldn’t see more than a few yards in front in a real thick pea souper that I’ve never experienced before. It was made even worse by the continuous stream of heavy lorries passing that made the experience an atrocious climb. It was a real challenge just to stay on the bike in these conditions. I soon donned my rainwear but in that fog and sudden hailstone downpour I was saturated and continued the rest of my day’s ride to Puigcerda thoroughly cold and wet. I needed to finish this day before I became unwell and needed a shower and change desperately. Even so I got over the twin passes seeing nothing and entering the duty free area at the foot of Pas de la Casa just inside the French border. I took a photo of the customs area and another of the town in the middle of nowhere. I needed to eat and find somewhere to shelter for a while. I warmed up in a Wendy Hamburger take-away and had a burger – because I was desperate! It gave me instant energy few a few more miles and I had ½ an hour here and the shop next door where I bought Ruth two Andorran fridge magnets. Warmed up and feeling better I rode up the Col de Puymorens telling myself this was the last climb of the day and it’s all downhill from here even though it was late in the day. It wasn’t a difficult climb from this side as the only real climb is from the separation from the Ax-les –Thermes road to the top of the pass for 6km. There were hailstones on the ground at the top of the pass which was a real winter scene, totally different from all the warm passes I had explored in Andorra through the day. It was dry weather for my climb to Puymorens but the bad weather saved another savage blow for me as I reached the south side of the pass all the way to Puigcerda, but descending it was dry as I followed a white camper van slowly negotiating the hairpins. On the descent looking back at the inky blackness of the storm over the passes I found it incredible that I passed through unscathed except for being soaked and numb with cold. After Porta the hailstones were back and this really was a deluge. They hurt and I was glad I put all spare clothing on for the descent and waterproof gloves so important on a descent and also in the cold along the valley. I hadn’t needed them until today but so pleased to have them. I wanted to explore La Tour de Carol as it was this village I stayed in back in 1985 on a backpacking trip to Lisbon. I couldn’t even see the village through the hailstones but continued on head down into Bourg Madame. There’s a small hotel there on the main street on the left as I passed through, people in there looking out at the storm. I thought of stopping there but continued on for the last 2km to Puigcerda to set me in the right place for tomorrow’s climbs – weather permitting!  I sheltered under the old customs roof at the edge of town, hailstones bouncing off it. These hailstones were painful on a bike, glad to have some clothing protection. I checked a street map of Puigcerda and located the hotels that all seemed to be around the station area so made a mad last dash there in the hope of comfort of bath and food. I called at one hotel near the station but no vacancies but then found another past the station car park behind this one, it was better anyway. This is Hotel Puigcerda close to the railway station, Av. Catalunya at 37€ (£26). The rain eased later after a good long soak in the bath and change so walked to a nearby restaurant and enjoyed a meal at Plat Rodo bar by the hotel, espaguetis bolenesa (spaghetti Bolognese) and two beers for 14€ (£10).

 443      Seu d’Urgell                Sant Julia de Loria                                    13        8          620-909

            Sant Julia de Loria      Bosc de la Rabassa BIG 441                 18        12        909-2060

            Bosc de la Rabassa     Sant Julia de Loria                                   18        12        2060-909

            Sant Julia de Loria      Port d’Ordino BIG 437                          24        15        909-1029-1981

            Port d’Ordino             Canillo                                                               8          5          1981-1542

            Canillo                         Collado de Cabris BIG 440                       32        20        1542-1029-2304                                  Encamp / Andorra la Vella

            Collado de Cabris       Port de Rat      BIG 436                        34        21 2304-1237-2225                                                          Ordino

            Port de Rat/Arcalis     Andorra la Vella                     26        16        2225-1029

            Andorra la Vella         Coll de la Devèsa BIG 438     16        10        1029-1929

            Coll de la Devèsa /Els Cortals   Encamp                    10        6          1929-1313

            Encamp                       Port d’Envalira  BIG 439       20        12        1313-2409

            Port d’Envalira            Col de Puymorens BIG 359   14        9          2409-2091-1875-1915                                    Pas de la Casa (2091m)

            Col de Puymorens       Puigcerda                                28        17        1915-1152

                                                                                                261      163                              2858                1791            (Today’s climb 6811 metres)

(Also IGN map 71 Sant Julia de Loria to Puigcerda)

 Day 17            Saturday 1st July         Puigcerda to Berga 10.00 – 17.30

 Today it was bright and sunny and had no more rain until later this afternoon. I left my bags at the hotel and took what I needed for my ride up to Cima de Coma Morera. At first it’s an easy ride along to Bourg Madame then along to Ossèja, a long straight road. I called at the tourist information office for directions to the pass. From Ossèja the route to Cima de Coma Morera through the village from the centre at Mairie Place St Paul is to continue in the same direction coming in from Bourg Madame then on to Rue de Progrès down hill a bit to the forest ahead on to Avenue Casa Pont, over the small river bridge and follow the Route Forestiere past a campsite begin the climb with a few hairpins between low bushes that leads to a dried up water fountain on the left (useful!), took a photo, then continuing into a tree lined route that soon becomes forest. Eventually at the junction of roads on climb to Cima de Coma Morera there are two ways to reach the top indicated on a wooden board: “Altitude 1660m. Jasse de la Coronas 37km, Col de Pradelles 5km, Frontire 8.5km, Borne 504” It seems the French don’t like to acknowledge Spain to the south, just frontier! Also the alternative route indicated is: “Pla de Nafry 3.3km, Orry d’Andreu Refuge 6.8km, Col de Pradelles 9.1km, Frontiere 12.6km, Altitude 2205m” with a recommendation that the preferred route is to the right, “sens recommande”. I took the left turn to arrive at Col de Pradelles, just off to the right at a road junction a few kilometres further, another photo here looking towards the range of white mountains that straddle the border. Through wooded countryside totally unspoilt to reach a clearing and a large mound where the road skirts then up to the top where it ends at a wooden fence enclosure but no indication marker of the top of the pass but here is where the road ends. From here I took photos of the Puigmal on the border to the east, north towards Valcebollère and north west back down the pass towards Ossèja.  From there back to Puicerda and picked up my bags and headed for Tunnel de Cadi. I wasn’t sure what to when I reached there as I couldn’t see a way over without going through the tunnel. I decided the safest thing to do was hitch a lift again like I did at Viella tunnel so waited at a petrol station a short way from the tunnel entrance and asked each motorist if they were willing to take me and the bike through the tunnel. Most wouldn’t but one couple who were going that way made me an offer – if I would pay their tunnel fee then they would take me and the bike through. It thought this was good deal for 6.00€ so accepted. I got dropped off at the first turn off at Baga and doubled back up to Gréixer at the foot of the Col de Pal. The bottom of the pass is noisy with the main road passing over on tall columns over the valley and the noise carried a long way up the mountainside for the first few kilometres, also the valley is surrounded by cliffs on either side that made the noise even louder. I was glad to be away from this higher up but at first the road up to the pass went under the columns twice. Further up there are coloured rocks that make the route interesting and there’s plenty of great views. There may be a track over to Super Molina on the French side but I didn’t want to pass over there again so after a brief stop at the top I turned back. Going back down I was heading into a storm again and hoped that I could make it down before I got caught in it. On the way up Col de Pal I took photos of the road near Gréixer between the white cliffs that overhang the road and again at 2km from the summit looking east back down the road among scrubland and another at the summit looking north over to France and also on the way down along the road heading into a storm that fortunately didn’t start until I reached the bottom of the pass. At the bottom I got caught but it didn’t last long and joined up with the main road again. It was still wet weather while heading for Berga but the rain cleared the air and was less humid so made good time in fresher conditions for the last 20 kilometres gradually downhill and an easy ride even if the road was busy with the constant stream of cars and lorries. I found a place to stay at the head of the main square in the centre of Berga called Hotel Queralt on Plaça de la Creu. I had a bath and changed then walked the length of the square later and found a good place to eat a paella and a couple of San Miguel beers before hitting the sack at 10.00pm.

 443      Puigcerda                    Cima de Coma Morera            22        14        1152-1140-2205                                  Bourg Madame / Osseja

            Cima de Coma Morera     Puigcerda   ^BIG 360        22        14        2205-1152

            Puigcerda                    Grèixer (lift through tunnel)   18        12        1152-790

            Grèixer                        Coll de Pal      BIG 430          13        8          790-2070

            Col de Pal                   Grèixer                                    13        8          2070-790

            Grèixer                        Berga                                       26        16        790-710

                                                                                                114      72                                2972                1863            (Today’s climb 2345 metres)

 Day 18            Sunday 2nd July          Berga to Barcelona 07.00 – 16.30

 A rubbish breakfast at the hotel, probably because I was a foreigner and made to feel it! I was given a glass of orange juice and one bread roll with butter, great service! The room was good though but glad to be out on the road on another fine sunny morning. I left my bags at the reception and took what I needed and climbed out on a very steep road at the back of the town heading for Rasos de Peguera, 1836m. I enjoyed this climb immensely as it was great scenery all the way especially to the south and west and also because I had the road to myself all the way as I passed between white and also coloured rocks that glisten in the sun, glad to be here before the heat of the day makes the climb unbearable. It took me 2 ½ hours to reach the top. I was the only person there and saw no one on the way up but coming down later there were signs of life with a few cars and cyclists. I took some photos of the cross at the turning point at the top and looking across to the Pyrenees and on the descent looking south of the road snaking down the mountain and of the coloured rocks that line the road. A few kilometres above Berga is a side road leading to de Queralt, a Catholic shrine and viewpoint. I took the road that climbs up through the woods for about 2km to the church and told myself I’m not passing this way again so may as well take a look, and I was glad I visited. The place hadn’t opened yet but soon would at 10.00am so had a wander up the steps to the shrine, great views from the viewpoint south and imagined I could make out the Mediterranean  in the distance but couldn’t really tell in the heat haze. Down from here later among dense woods to emerge in Berga again, collected my bags from the hotel and took the main road south for Barcelona. This is a busy road and full of roadworks as road widening is taking place. I passed through Manresa then took every right turn indicated and headed for Montserrat as I wanted to climb to the monastery again having enjoyed the experience first time. It was my first climb on my first day out from Barcelona and wanted to make it my last also on this tour for a second climb. I had a coffee and burger at a café in Montserrat and asked if I could leave my bags there for a couple of hours. The young chap there was very obliging so I could take the climb again with very little weight to carry. This time I knew what to expect as I rounded every corner and didn’t get up high hopes seeing the church tower at the halfway point that I had arrived already. It’s really not a difficult climb, especially knowing the road and was soon at the top in an hour. I stayed a while, took in the views and freewheeled back down, collected my bags and rode on to Barcelona. I decided the best way in would be to avoid proximity to the motorway and feeder roads and take the road on the west bank of the Llobregat Rive, passing through Martorell, Sant Vicenc and Sant Boi. This was no problem at all and the roads were fairly quiet but I had real problems after Sant Boi. I wanted to reach the airport then back-track along the same road I cycled on my first day away from the airport heading for the city centre. Even later I couldn’t find a way that wasn’t motorway yet it was only a short distance. I resorted to riding on footpaths to the airport but got there and found the way to cycle into the city. I stopped at Hotel Savosa halfway to the centre, showered and changed and spent the late afternoon sunning myself on the beach north of the city centre. In Barcelona I took photos of the Place d’Espanya and Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) cathedral and the Victory Arch on Pas de Sant Joan that was a fitting final photo at the end of my tour. 

 443      Berga                           Rasos de Peguera BIG 429     16        10        710-1836

            Rasos de Peguera        Berga                                       16        10        1836-710

            Berga                           Montserrat                               60        38        710-161-724                                     BIG 475, second time climbed

            Montserrat                   Barcelona                                58        36        724-161-4                                         Martorell/ Sant Vicenc /Des Horts

                                                                                                150      94                                3122                1940            (Today’s climb 1689 metres)

 Day 19 Monday 3rd July  Barcelona to Holmes Chapel

 My flight was at 11.00am for Liverpool and made my way to Place d’Espanya at 7.30am and caught the train from Estacion Sants to the airport.

I collected my bike bag then fitted it into the bag; tubes deflated and removed wheels. The bike fits into the zip up padded bag without having to remove clip pedals, turn the bars or take the pannier carrier off. I took it along to the check out then both bike and panniers had to go to the oversize luggage X-ray machine. Relieved of the bike, passed through customs. I had to take the shoes off for the scanner because of the metal clips. I had a pasta and beer ( 4.15€) in the departure area just before the queue started to move to board the plane and for the first time ever didn’t buy any duty free as it’s almost the same price as home these days. The flight arrived in Liverpool on time and I cycled to Liverpool South Parkway station, feeling strange to be cycling on the left again. From here to Hartford and cycled home through Davenham and Lach Dennis and stopped off at the Three Greyhounds at Byley for a Guinness – it was a hot day!  

Total distance: 3122 kilometres or 1940 miles

Total height climbed: 57876 metres or 189879 feet

Total number of passes: BIG passes 55, other 14

Grimper, c'est s'élever ; Cycloclimbing is going higher

B.I.G = Brevet International du Grimpeur

      = International Cycloclimbing Diploma

PASSACOL = Le guide européen du cyclogrimpisme

         = European Cycloclimbing guide