Sunday 1st July 2012 Holmes Chapel to Namur
08.43 train from Crewe to London. 12.57 Eurostar train to Brussels, arriving at 16.08 then local train to Namur. Arrived in Namur in the afternoon and met on the station by Dan and Natalie who had parked on the road at the back of the station then met me above the platforms at 18.00. I had mentioned in a text that I would be in a red jacket and that the bike was in a large red and black zipper bag. They took me along to his mother’s house at 47 Avenue Arthur Proces to the north west of the city centre. I would sleep here for two nights in the empty house. His mother had died earlier in the year and he was in the process of renovating the house in order to sell it. The house still had all the furniture and there was a single bed in a small room that I could use and he gave me a key. I could have a shower but there was only cold water. Dan explained my location in the city on a map and indicated shops and eating places then left me to my own devices so that I could explore. Later I cycled left out of the house and found a small restaurant on Chaussée Louvain and had burger and chips, parking the bike inside the restaurant. From there I biked down the hill then back up the quiet road and a steep hill to the house again. From there I walked down into the city centre and along Rue de Fer / Rue de l’Ange to La Sambre river and up through the woods to discover La Citadelle from the north after a pleasant walk along the northern river bank at Rue des Brasseurs. I explored the outer walls and the point where the battle took place, the high wall of the fortress and description of the former gun emplacements. From there over the top and down to the south bank of the small river to its confluence with La Meuse then south along the west bank to the youth hostel where I had stayed back in 1980 – just to relive memories. I had a drink there and watched a World Cup match – forgotten which teams writing this seven months later! From there, after a few Duvels, made my way back through the city and up the hill back to the house at 11.00 and slept soundly.
Monday 2nd July 2012 Namur and the Tour de France
The Tour de France will be cycling through Namur this afternoon. I walked down to the city at 08.30 and had Macdonalds breakfast €2.75 and read the local paper. That morning I did the obligatory sightseeing tour around the city centre looking at the Place d’Armes, the river embankment walks and the Citadel. I walked up from La Sambre at Ponte de L’Evéché and through the woods to the top. The leading promotion cars went through first at 1.00pm. People on board shower the eager crowds with free gifts galore. Following this are the cars that give announcements of how far the tour is away, who the leading riders are and any news of the day that would be of interest. Next came a group of low flying helicopters from the direction of the Muese and to the east. That’s where the riders were coming from as they raced along the north bank. The leading cyclists raced through at 2.30pm at an incredible speed on the uphill climb followed a few minutes later by the peleton mass. I watched Le Tour pass through at the bends at the top of Le Citadelle at the junction of Chemin Romagnesi and Route Marveilleuse ( The marvellous route?). At 3.00 followed the crowds down the marvellous route and to the Meuse River and wandered along the west bank into the city. Too many videos taken of the Tour de France passing through at The Citadel so bought another memory card for my camera from Photo Hall in Namur at €9.99. later I walked back to the house and went for the bike and cycled 4 circuits of Le Citadelle, following the route of the tour and also further across to Avenue Jean Ler and Avenue Marie d’Artois to explore Château de Namur, many photos. From there back to the city streets and took in the nightlife around Rue St Jean and back to the house for 10.00pm to have an early night as Dan would collect me at 05.00 in the morning for our long drive to Prague.
Tuesday 3rd July 2012 Namur to Vrchlabi
Dan called at 05.00, we loaded up my bike and the one pannier and drove me back to his house in Belgrade on the western side of Namur where Natalie gave us breakfast of ham and eggs. I paid my dues for the hire of the peoples carrier we needed for four bikes and he drove out heading for the German border at 06.00. Dan had hired a VW van that could seat nine persons but we were only five fortunately. There was space for four bikes at the rear of the van in the hatchback. The van hire was €400, the fuel estimate for 3000km of travel and back to Namur was €300, a total of €700. As we were picking the others up in Prague I agreed to share the cost with Dan and paid €250. The others would pay €70 each. It was a long trip and a good idea for Dan and I to share the driving. Surely it was much to far for him to drive alone, his original intention. There was too great a risk of lack of concentration at the wheel over such a long distance. Our route was along the motorway A15 to Leige then A3 to Aachen, Cologne, Limburg, Frankfurt, Wurtzburg, Bamberg, north of Bayreuth, over the Czech border to Cheb, Karlovy Vary and to Prague. We collected Pavel Panis in the outskirts of Prague near the airport, followed by Jerry Nilsen and Fredrik Granlund at the place they were staying elsewhere in Prague. It was interesting to see some of the villages just to the west of Prague as we carefully picked our way along minor roads. Dan had arranged to meet at a road/rail /river point just north of the city so this meant having to take the lanes close to the airport. As we neared Prague we had to negotiate the movement of trams and also be careful of roadworks so were glad to be off the main street and into the quiet suburbs but still had to wait for them as they were walking back from the city. Time was going fast and we really wanted to get away as soon as possible as we still had another 110 kilometres to reach Vrchlibi where we were staying for the next two nights. Our route was the motorway to Mlada Boleslav then east to Jicin, Nova Paka to Vrchlabi. The distance from Namur to Prague is 850km (530 miles) and we had planned to arrive in Prague between 4.00 and 5.00pm. Because of delays in Prague it was 7.00pm when we arrived at Hotel Albis. Most of the others were there already. We all unpacked, changed, washed and were ready for our meal followed by Saris beer to relax to later. It was so good to catch up on old friends such as Wim, Francois , Bernard and Jurgen.
Wednesday 4th July 2012 Krknose Tour
Vrchlabi to Vrbatova Bouda, Przel’ecz Okraj and Spindlerova Bouda
Vrbatova Bouda, BIG number 836, 1395 metres
The first pass of the tour starts at Jilemnice (or Starkenbach in German) 6km to the west of Vrchlabi. We all bundled our bikes into our vehicles – some rode the 6km. We parked at a dusty car park just before the roundabout for the road to the pass striking north from here. The road is a gradual ascent to within 5km from the road summit and it was foggy at the top. I took the usual photos up there of the buildings almost hidden in the fog. There was certainly no scenery to take photos of. The ascent was on a good road though woods. The weather was dry on the whole, just a smattering of rain part way down to Vrchlabi. Jerry accompanied me for some distance up but as he was on a stronger gear he couldn’t keep up with my slowness so after a few kilometres he rode ahead to join the others. At the top Fredrick, Jerry and I took photos in the mist at a signpost that looks something like a man-made cactus tree! The top was along a track just off to the left from the road which ends abruptly, an old wooden building on the left marks the spot. We rode on for approx 500 metres to the top in even thicker fog then descended back to the cars. We were out of the mist at the first ski resort below the pass so took more photos here. I cycled with Jerry part way down but naturally he soon wanted to speed on ahead. I was the last one back but Dan, Pavel, etc weren’t waiting too long – besides I was taking in the scenery!
Pomezni Boudy, Przelecz Okraj, BIG number 827, 1046 metres
Bikes back in the peoples carrier at Jilemnice Dan drives through Vrchlabi to Svoboda Nad Upou to the east however we took a wrong turning at Rudnik as we were confused by roadworks and lack of direction indicators – not only that but the satellite navigation being very clever and sophisticated took into account the roadworks and directed us south through Hostinne (Arnau) instead of the direct road. It was interesting to see the white buildings at Trutnov on the way though. From Svoboda just north of here we park up at a green area by a river bridge then all ride together following the stream on the right through wooded country then take a right turn where I started to lag behind on the steeper section here and ride alone part way. Dan was good enough to wait for me later and we rode on together for some distance. The road climb to the pass starts at this point on the road to the right then 3km and another right heading north. I arrived at the top of the pass sooner than expected as I thought I had to take a right for the last 7km. Most of the group were waiting for me at the top and assured me they hadn’t been waiting long. Just kind words and an understatement surely! On the way up near the top there’s an open clearing and this was only the start of the bends, first one to the right. The road ends just before the Polish border where we stopped to take photos at the frontier sign. From there all back down the mountain to rejoin the cars except for Jerry who decided to carry on over the pass into Poland and come back over the final pass of the day, the Spindlerova Bouda, from the north side and cycle over to Vrchlabi. He arrived back at midnight or later and had no lights or extra clothing. It had also started raining later in the day so his night ride must have been an ordeal – but we know that Jerry is always positive and would see enjoyment in the agony!
Spindlerova Bouda, BIG number 837, 1238 metres
The bikes were bundled back into the cars at Svoboda and we drove back to Vrchlabi by the more direct route and parked back at the hotel. We took a left out of the hotel to the lowest point a kilometre away at the river bridge. Near this point is the source of the River Elbe. At the river bridge we took a ‘U’ turn and started cycling the pass, going past the hotel. After a few kilometres the whole group left me behind as I was far too slow! Even so I always arrive even if my timing would be something to be desired, as they waited for me at the top. The way up is gradual as far as a lake on the right then a little steeper through Spindlerova ski resort. At the top end of the resort the road narrows for the remaining six kilometres to the road summit. The road here is light coloured fine pebble and tarmac and very green short grass on either side. I saw the pile of bikes outside the Czech pub in the mist and called in to tell Dan and the rest of the group that I was continuing on to the top. They would order me a drink. I went as far as a Polish pub in the mist up a wide track for about 500 metres in thick fog to the Polish border where there is a large dated café that needs renovating from its 1950’s style. I took some photos in front of the summit nameplate at 1260 metres height as indicated on the side of the café wall then backtracked down the pass for approx one kilometre to where Dan and company were waiting for me in the Czech café for a celebration drink called Saris, at the top of the Czech pass, only a light alcohol but for some reason it took ten minutes to make by the bartender. I rode back down on my own. Because of the fog I was a bit cold but once the lake and ski resort was reached I was under blue sky and warmer weather and enjoyed the descent back to the hotel. I arrived back at 19.40. We all enjoyed a great meal that evening and it was a pleasure to hand Francois back his curtain that I used last year in Corsica – but then I had also used it later in France, Germany and Luxembourg! It had been well travelled so wrapped it carefully and tied it in a blue ribbon and presented him with the ‘Grand Order of the Curtain’. I had my own small room and single bed for the two nights at Hotel Albis which was great.
Thursday 5th July 2012 Jeseniky Tour
Sὺchy Vrch, Cevernohorske Sedlo and Pradid
We move on from the Krknose to the Jeseniky area. It was good that we sorted out baggage and bikes last night so that we were ready to go as soon as possible after breakfast. Our route was Trutnov, Nachod, Nove Mesto, Rychnov and Zamberk to Cervena Voda for the road climb to Sὺchy Vrch.
Sὺchy Vrch, BIG number 838, 977 metres
We approached Cervana Voda after most of the others and we passed the road junction for the continuation of the route up to Sὺchy Vrch and we had to continue to the small town as this is the lowest point of the climb. It was amusing to see so many of the party cycling the other way as we headed for Cervana Voda. We parked the vehicle at a car park to the right of the road just before the town, unloaded and headed off to join the other riders in bright warm sunshine for a change. We were south of the Krknose and in lower ground. From the town to the road junction is a fairly easy gradual rise through an area of short grass and views across the countryside. Taking the right turn where there were many cars parked next to some bright coloured huts, a café there perhaps, and into a more wooded area. The road is narrower with some sections of gravel, fallen twigs and the occasional pothole – a good road for cycling but not for driving. This is the reason why there are so many cars parked at the junction so our only obstacle were the many walkers making their way up or down from the end of the road. At the top are some sizable buildings, a restaurant and TV/radio mast. This was a perfect cycling road and no great distance so most of the group waited at the top so that we could take some great group photos. On the way up we waved at Wim, Francois and some others on the way down but most of us stayed a while. There were many people up. Later it was an easy sweeping descent back to Cervana Voda for the drive on to the next climb through Kraliky and followed the rail track through Hanusovice into Jesenik near the Polish border. We all parked up in the town and most of the group pressed on for the next climb but a few of us, Pavel, Fredrik, Jerry and I followed Pavel’s suggestion of trying out local beer and sausage from a favourite brewery he knew about. He wasn’t too sure of the location so had to ask some locals. It didn’t take long for him to find it near the railway line and we enjoyed an hour’s relaxation but didn’t drink too much! Thoroughly refreshed we cycled on for the next pass.
Cevernohorske Sedlo, BIG number 839, 1013 metres
I left them there to drink some more but I needed a head start because I knew they would pass me at some stage. I surprised myself how far ahead I got. I stopped to make sure of a turning and just then Wim appeared coming down from the pass and told me to take the right fork but on returning stay to the right and follow the way he was going. My three companions were soon off ahead of me of course! Up through the woods then first Pavel then the other two passed me but by then I was only a few kilometres from the top so Jerry and Fredrik waited for me and we took photos at the top. The top of the pass is in a clearing, an ideal place for posing! We freewheeled down and they went on ahead. I rode alone heading for the next pass however for this one it was a ride between the two, the only occasion on the tour that we had to do this – unless of course we were really adventurous like Jerry!
Praded, BIG number 840, 1492 metres
To reach Praded and our hotel for the night that’s a few kilometres below the top of the road at the giant mast, we had to cycle 45 kilometres through Domasov, Bela and Vrbno. This took me four hours with a steep rise from Bela as far as the Karlova Studenka turn off. At first the road follows a stream through wooded countryside and I passed many wooden houses on the way but soon the road rises through more dense woods to eventually reach a clearing at the top of a pass that I thought just as tough as the previous pass. I thought it would be a doddle but I was glad to reach the top of this unexpected climb then descend to Vrbno. I was conscious of time and wanted to reach the hotel as soon as possible so got a spurt on and passed quickly through Vrbno for the long climb – or so it seems at the end of the day – heading for Praded. The road follows a stream at first but soon begins to rise but on reaching the crossroads for Karlova Studenka slightly to the north the road becomes steeper. There’s a large car park to the left here and in front, barring the remaining section of the road to Praded there’s a metal barrier. I asked the way and the attendant smiled and raised the barrier but there was no need really as I could have easily ducked underneath. I was getting really tired as I pressed on along the remaining 19 kilometres to the hotel. It’s a great road, pebbly in places and tree lined all the way with conifers. All I could think about was reaching the hotel and leave the final kilometre section to Praded tower itself until the morning. One of our part in a van stopped to offer me a lift, very kind but no way would I accept a lift having come this far! I politely refused but really wished I could. I reached a hotel on the right where there was a bar outside and would liked to have stopped but it was already 8.00pm. Fortunately it wasn’t far - down a short bit to a high valley, to the right then left and a left turn to the Sporthotel Kurzovni where I could see some familiar vehicles parked. I was home for the night! I waited patiently in the reception area while Pavel was busy negotiating the rooms. What I didn’t know at the time was that the meal would be delayed as the rooms weren’t yet allocated because some of the party had to bike back to Jesenik to recover the vehicles and drive back. I was getting really hungry and needed to shower and change but those of us there would have to wait for the others. I placed my bike with many others in a room at the back of the reception, all securely locked later. It was a great relief when the others arrived back and we could be allocated rooms. We enjoyed a fantastic dinner but I could have ate more, not that it was nouvelle cuisine but that I was ravenous! My room was shared with four others but I didn’t need earplugs that night, they probably did though!
Friday 6th July 2012 West Tatras Tour
Praded, Przel’ecz Salmopolska and Martinske Hole
Praded, BIG number 840, 1492 metres
I had a good night’s sleep but left early on my own at 07.00 and rode the short distance up to Praded tower. The road is so different from lower down where it passes through woods of conifer. The area from the hotel upwards is short weather-beaten bushes and along a narrow gravel road leading up to the tower that’s in view most of the way up. It was a brisk morning and bright sunshine and blue sky so the white tower ahead on my approach stood kike a bold sentinel on the mountainside. It took me only twenty minutes or so to reach it but I could never have appreciated this yesterday after a long ride. I asked the others and they accepted it was OK to split the climb up, after all it’s just the same as resting a while part way up a pass. I took plenty of photos at the top and descended back to the hotel for 08.00 just in time for breakfast. We all set off in the cars an hour later to leave the Czech Republic and cross over first the first of the Slovakia climbs, first of all though it was a short crossing into Poland for the climb of the unpronounceable Przel’ecz Salmopolska. For this we drove through Bruntal, Opava, Ostrava, Cieszyn and Ustron to Wisla and parked up off the road opposite a café /bar in Wisla. We stopped off in Ostrava for me to buy some sun tan cream but I wish I never mentioned it as it set us back more than an hour. Pavel was having a field day around the supermarket and at one point we lost Dan – he was in there somewhere! Eventually after ice creams and bottles of Coke – it was such a warm day – we were on our way again and heading for the Polish border. The only visible sign at the frontier was the welcoming sign into Poland then we continued on through and eventually to Wisla.
Przel’ecz Salmopolska, BIG number 828, 934 metres
From Wisla where we left the car next to a Polski sklep we rode the pass through woods to the top where we stopped for a while at an outside café at the top on the left and drank coke for energy and a few photos of a small group of us. I honestly can’t remember detail of the pass writing this in January 2013, should have done this before now! I remember riding up through woods and an artificial ski-lift on the left on the way down, emerging from a short tunnel and catching up with the others waiting at the vehicle for the onward trip to the next pass over the border in Slovakia. A few of us gathered at the café / bar later at the foot of the pass later and had a drink then we piled back into the cars for the next pass – Slovakia here we come!
Martinske Hole, BIG number 846, 1460 metres
We drove from Wisla through Istebna, Jablunkov and over the border at Purasovci, down through Cadca, Zilina to Vrutky just north of Martin. We parked up at a small car park just opposite a bar (which we frequented later!) and rode easy road through Vrutky until we reached a first hairpin leading off to the right then up through pleasant wooded countryside to reach the height of Velka Luka at the top of the road at Martinske Hole. At the top are TV radio masts and a red metal gate barring the way. Dan and I arrived together but shortly after I believe it was Luigi – I know he was Italian – we took photos of our conquest at the barren road summit that wasn’t much to speak of except for the view from the top. Down to the foot of the pass and I thought Dan needed a beer and he looked as exhausted as I was. Jerry stood there in an epitome of fitness while Dan drooped over a much needed beer thoroughly exhausted. I remember thinking I’d better take the wheel of the car when we set out again as I didn’t want him dropping off to sleep heading for the hotel for the night in Habovka. The route was now east and slightly north to our hotel just before the Polish border. Our route now was south to Martin then Dolny Kubin to a turning off to the right from the main road at Podbiel along the valley Studena Dolina to Habovka. This was at an excellent Hotel, the Julianin Dvor on the north bank of the river with pleasant gardens overlooking this and the valley opposite. A fantastic meal wolfed down by hungry cyclists and a time of relaxation and talk together with Saris beer that’s reasonably cheap at €1.50 a bottle followed by an early night in preparation for tomorrow’s further adventures. I was glad just to share with Pavel tonight, no snoring heard!
Saturday 7th July 2012 Polish Tatras Tour
Przel’ecz Krowiarki, Przehyba and Tatliakovo Jazaro
After breakfast we were all in the cars heading north again for the Polish border; back down the valley to Podbiel then taking a right on the main road for Trstena and into Poland again through Jablonka to Zubrzka Gorna where we parked up on the left at a rough ground car park by the side of a Polski sklep.
Przel’ecz Krowiarki, BIG number 829, 1018 metres
From here we assembled the bikes and rode the gradual incline up along the road snaking up through wooded sides and a good surface to the top where there wasn’t much to see except for a a clearing, some small hotels around and a group of waiting cyclists for the obligatory photos at a stone that commemorates Pope John Paul II and the board that has details of the Przyroda Babiogorski Park Narodowy just behind the wooden fence, not much to speak of really but the road climb to this point was enjoyable. I remember there was a person selling local honey at the top and thinking my mother in law would like some of that but what state would it be in when I finally got it home! It was only a gradual rise most of the way, the steeper section being nearer to the top. Bazck down to the cars band bundled back into the vehicles for the next pass.
Przehyba, BIG number 826, 1191 metres
South to Jablonka, east to Czarny Dunajec and through Nowy Targ where I remember seeing many old communist style apartment blocks in dark grey concrete. It looked a dismal place but I’m sure there were many improvements in recent years. On further east to Kroscienko then north to Gmina then Golkowice Dolne where we left the vehicles parked opposite a café / bar and rode the well wooded bordered road up to the top of the pass and the radio mast. The top was gravelly, in fact the last kilometre was hard going on most of us (except for the die-hard BIGers) walked the bikes through rough stones to the top. Dan collapsed and we enjoyed taking photos! Wheeling them back again, mounting and freewheeling down the better surface back to the car and being real gluttons for punishment we were heading back for Habovka and the final climb of the day. From here the planned route was to go back to Habovka in the cars by the same route through Nowy Targ and Trasena but Pavel suggested another route that would take us in Slovakia and a parallel road south and back to Habovka, we took his advice. Besides it was good to see some different scenery. Our route was now Gmina Stary Sacz to the east then to the Slovakian border at Mnisek nad Popradom, the town Stara Lubovna, Spisska Bela, Poprad, Liptovsky Mikulas and the road north along the lake back to Habovka. We saw some of our group cycling along here back to the hotel and were amazed that they had cycled this distance from Przehyba.
Tatliakovo Jazaro, BIG number 843, 1375 metres
Dan and I were the only two that hadn’t climbed this last pass today. I’m sure he was tired after that drive. I had shared some of it but he the majority, some 180 kilometres (112 miles). We rested a while then set off together up this last pass in the early evening. South of Habovka we were a little confused as to where the right turn was, Dan asked at a shop then shortly after we met Wim who was coming down from the pass. We now had the correct road for the pass although there was no clear indication from the Habovka / Liptovsky road in Zuberec. The way to it was by a small chapel on the right. It was only 16 kilometres and we had to do it, personally there was no way I was going to travel all the way back here on some future occasion to cycle one pass. It was a pleasant ride up through dense woods and a good surfaced road. It became a little steeper after a few kilometres. I said to Dan as we were both struggling up , “It’s a privilege to be suffering alongside the President!” Dan was obviously tiring and behind and I carried on along the road at eight kilometres from Zuberec but this came to an abrupt end at Zverovka. I wasn’t sure at the time so took some photos thinking this was the top. Dan was soon behind but it was evident the top was further on so we doubled back and took a left and this took us on further until we reached a pole barrier. We passed by this and continued up, past a car park to the pub at the top at Sedlo Zabrad, at the end of the valley enclosed by the hills around and just before the Rakon, the highest point that separated the Slovakian valley from Poland. Here was the Bufet pri Tatliakovom Jazere – but it was closed. I would have bought you a beer Dan but it wasn’t to be, even though we both deserved it! I had one lower down at a wooden restaurant on the right by the barrier. I remember the sunset from the lower part of the pass over the thick conifers being a fitting end to a glorious day. Dan was way ahead now but I was enjoying the remaining part of the pass then passed through Zuberec just as the darkness began to set in. We all enjoyed a fabulous meal that evening and we had the pleasure of meeting two members of the club who had come over from Poland that evening to join us at the hotel.
Sunday 8th July 2012 East Tatras Tour
Glodowka, Slieszky Dom and Sedlo Certovica
Glodowka, BIG number 830, 1145 metres
After breakfast we were all in the cars heading north again for the Polish border; back down the valley to Podbiel then taking a right on the main road to Trstena then headed east through Sucha Hora then south after the border through Witow into Zakopane to Poronin where we parked in a small parking area in front of a Polski sklep. Some of us bought food from here and we asked if it was in order to park while we cycled to Glodowka and we would buy again afterwards – no problem. The first section of the road passes through the outskirts of the Zakopane area then after a roundabout at Klin where there are touristy market stalls the road to the top enters a wooded area and after a further four kilometres reaches the top that is marked by a small wooden shrine on the left. We stopped here for a group photo-shoot taken by our expert lady photographer who had the job of handling all our cameras. I dawdled on the way down to take in the views over Zakopane as Ruth and I were here three years previously and had walked the ridge of Gubalowka north of the town. I could see that clearly in the distance across the valley. I took a look at the market stalls, mainly clothing, hats, belts and walking poles (er – sticks that is not people!) Back down to the cars where many of the group were buying in the shop using up the zlotys as we wouldn’t be coming back into Poland. From here on it was two remaining passes in Slovakia to complete the tour.
Sliezsky Dom, BIG number 845, 1670 metres
We drive from Poronin east to Jurgow then south to the Slovakian border north of Podspady, east to Zdiar and south then took a right to Vysoke Tatry. We had a short search for the correct road to Sliezsky Dom and found it slightly to the east of the town at Tatranska Polianka where we parked at a decent car park in front of Hotel Tivoli and opposite a large white building in front of which is a road junction and the brown sign indicating Sliezsky Dom. Behind this are the jagged edges of the High Tatras that looked such a welcoming challenge in the warm sunshine. It’s a narrow road and a good surface all the way to the top and the lower part of the road is bordered by short grass, wild flowers and small stalk like trees for approx five kilometres and a series of road bends to reach a wilder scene on the approach to the hotel and the lake at the top, the Velicke Pleso. Some of the group were already at the top taking in the view at the terrace bar tables. I went for a Saris beer at €0.90 and a sausage at only one euro which wasn’t bad. I sat in the covered bar for a while watching part of a football match but not for long as others were waiting down below. Dan had decided to give this one a miss so shouldn’t stay up here too long though it was tempting. I wheeled the bike over a rickety wooden footbridge opposite the Horsky Hotel to take some photos at the yellow signpost that indicated the height and name of Sliezsky Dom, the waterfall at the end of the lake and the jagged cliffs of the High Tatras and chatted to some German walkers then headed off back down the pass enjoying the descent to warmer air, sweeping round bends and great views in all directions – back to the car and waiting companions.
Sedlo Certovica, BIG number 844, 1238 metres
We drove west to Tatranska Strba and on to Kralova Lehota where we left the car off the road in a grassy hollow then cycled the final pass of the tour. This is a mountain road bordered with conifers and some good hairpins on the way up. Great views in open countryside and very warm even late in the afternoon. It’s scenic all the way to the top of the pass. Dan and I arrived at the top together and sheer co-incidence that there at the top we met three Hungarian BIG members who were cycling. I think they came up the other side and had sat with others of our group who were having a drink at the road summit bar on the left as we came up. They were really pleased to see Dan and can’t understand it but they knew who I was – OK those at the bar had told them! We chatted for a while and took photos with them then they returned back down the mountain road to the south. We all had a last celebration drink – or two –or three for an hour then we dispersed back down the way we came north to Kralova Lehota. From there most of the group were going back to the hotel for a second night at Hsabovka but Dan, Jerry, Pavel, Fredrik and I headed west for Prague. We changed and washed at the restaurant/bar then I took the wheel most of the way and we headed away from the mountains for the last time.
Monday 9th July 2012 Prague to Holmes Chapel
We drove from Liptovsky area just west of Poprad to Prague, most of it in the dark. I was glad of Pavel’s company and interesting talk and searching questions as I drove. Poprad, Liptovsky Mikulas, Martin, Zilina, Sumperk, Hradec Kralove to Prague. We dropped off Pavel first at some lonely spot on the edge of Prague close to his home. He then cycled off and we carried on to where Jerry and Fredrik had stayed previously. They unpacked and took everything back into the accommodation and would leave from there the following day. Fredrik would travel home to Sweden and Jerry would go to Prague main station and take a train with his bike into Austria and continue his travels. Dan drove to the Czech border then I drove through the night as far as Aachen where Dan took over and drove home to Namur. We planned to arrive back in Namur between 09.00 and 10.00am. The estimated distance was 1300km (812 miles) from the last climb north of Stara Lubovna, so this would take ten hours of driving. When we got back we relaxed at Dan’s house for a while after packing my bike in its padded zip bag then we arranged that I would follow him in the hire van back to the rental drop off point, and he would dive his own car. A great idea but another car overtook me at a road junction and I lost sight of his car. I was now on an unknown road and ended up in a small town called Spy. Only my sense of direction got me back to Belgrade but I couldn’t find Dan’s house. I was on the main road only a short distance away from it. I was getting frantic because I was running out of time to get my train connection to Brussels to connect with the Eurostar to London. I asked at a garage and they looked in a phone directory and told me to follow as the woman garage attendant drove to the house. Once there I asked Natalie to come with me to the rental place however Dan then appeared, so glad to see him and he had a big grin on his face. He had waited at the road junction but didn’t see that I had taken a wrong turning. I should have gone left but instead went right and was on my way to Leige! Dan took the wheel of the hire van and Natalie followed so we could get back again. He dropped it off, signed the papers and we were back. He quickly drove me to the main station and I had only minutes to spare to catch my last possible connection at 15.21, arriving in Brussels at 16.27 for the Eurostar. I only had 30 minutes in Brussels but it was sufficient time. I found the platform right away and relieved as I was in the queue with the others waiting to board. I struggled with the bike in the bag and dumped it in the train, relaxed and slept the whole way to London. The Eurostar left Brussels Midi at 16.56, arriving in London St Pancras at 18.12 I carried the bike and pannier along Euston Road and dumped it on the 19.10, arriving in Crewe at 20.48 and Ruth collected me. The end of a perfect holiday – but those hours in Namur were a bit scary!
1 Polish zloty = 6 Czech Koruna
Czech Koruna to Slovak Koruna almost on par with 0.98 CZK = 1 SKK
£0.81 = €1.00. Recently Slovakia recently changed to the euro, 1.00 SKK = €0.033m,
€1.00 = 4.25 Polish Zloty. €1 = 4.25 Polish Zloty, £1 = 32 CSK or 5.25 Polish Zloty