CENTRAL MASSIF, FRANCE.
LYON TO MONTPELLIER, AUGUST 2018
Friday 3rd August 2018
Puy de Dome is forbidden to cyclists during the normal daylight hours, however with a bit of effort it can be done providing the cyclist returns before the guard with dogs stations himself at the barrier in the car park. I had the perfect plan and would go up from Clermont Ferrand just before dawn, arrive at the top at sunrise then return down and take the path to the right for Col de Ceysatt where I would leave my hire car. The original plan was to take a train down to Gatwick and fly to Lyon by EasyJet flight EZY8419 19.45 departure, arrival 22.30, 2nd August, arriving 02.00. 3rd August. From here a drive through the night, midnight to Clermont Ferrand 2 hours on the motorway (191.2 km) via A89.
Park at Col de Ceysatt or la Font de l’Arbe , west of Clermont Ferrand. Sleep in car to 04.30 then climb Puy de Dome. To arrive back at road entrance before 07.00.
Take road D941A for Pontgibaud for 7km then turn left, after 2km take a right for la Font de l’Arbre Road then a left turn on to D68 after 1km steeply up. After 3km park on the right at Col de Ceysatt. At 4.30am cycle back to the junction 3km and turn left for Puy de Dome 6km however at the end of this road at la Font de l’Arbre Puy de Dome begins so best start from there – turn right and come back up the hill. Start of climb is on road D68 by karate school and roundabout. Just south of this is Ecole d’Arts Martiaux as a location. Continue west after roundabout on to Avenue Puy de Dome – however – all the planning came to nothing! My flight was late leaving Gatwick, consequently- late arriving in Lyon and too late to collect my hire car as the rental office was closed at midnight when I arrived. Of course I could collect it the following morning – Friday but was now impossible to drive across to Clermont Ferrand during the early hours of Friday morning.
NOTE TO ALL PEOPLE WANTING TO CLIMB THE PUY-DE-DÔME!
As you probably know, due to works on the panoramic posts on the Puy-de-Dôme volcano, the road was closed for cars and cyclists between 2010 and 2012. BIG 244 1415 metres 14km
Climbbybike has been informed that the last part of the climb, the part starting at the "péage" (871 m), making the typical curvy road around the volcano is NO LONGER ACCESSIBLE for cyclists. From mid 2012, it will only serve for medical and service vehicles. That means that the real Puy de Dôme climb no longer exists for cyclists as the last 5 kilometer, the hardest and real part of the climb, is no longer accessible. You can see on this page which routes around the volcano are still open for cyclists.
If you still want to cycle in the neighbourhood of the Puy de Dôme, you can for instance take the road to the Col de Ceyssat (follow RD 68 3 km direction Ceyssat). From there, you can WALK up via the chemin des Muletiers.
The Puy de Dome is in fact a volcano, one of the youngest volcanic features in the province. The most recent eruption at Puy de Dome was about 5,760 B.C. The Puy de Dôme is one of the mythical cols of the Tour de France. However, due to difficulties to reach the top with a Tour de France circus and risks because of huge crowds, the Puy de Dôme is no longer part of the French tour. In fact, given the new destination of the curly road around the icon, it may never return there.
The Puy de Dôme is situated in Auvergne. This climb belongs to the Massif Central. Starting from Clermont Ferrand, the Puy de Dôme ascent is 14 km long. Over this distance, you climb 1047 heightmeters. The average percentage thus is 7.5 %.
Welcome in the Chaîne des Puys! The discovery possibilities of the Chain of Puys are numerous.
Whether you're on foot, horseback or bike, be sure to take the path marked that corresponds to this activity.
The other paths are on private properties for which access is forbidden. The respect of these recommendations will allow other users (breeders, foresters, hunters, shepherds ...) to cohabit serenely with these activities of discovery and provide areas of tranquillity for fauna and flora. Information Additional School groups: parking and / or drop-off authorized for buses are shown on the map
opposite, thank you to respect these indications; in hunting season (from the 2nd weekend of September to last weekend of February) the days of battues are Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, hold account during your field visits.
Puy de Dome would be attempted on Sunday so this morning I collected my hire car – Fiat Punto – at 06.00, assembled my bike before the sunshine really got going, and was hitting the road at 07.30 taking the signs for Bourg en Bresse then off to the right heading west across the north of Lyon and down to St Etienne. I don’t know why I did that! It would have been simpler to take the motorway direct through Lyon. Once through St Etienne on the motorway i continued on to Yssingeaux, Retournac, Vorey and the minor road across to Bellevue la Montagne for the drive through the woods to la Chaise-Dieu BIG 251. From here down to Laval sur Doulon and parked up and bundled out the bike for the north side climb to the top, 17km from Laval sur Doulon. On leaving the village the way up is through a covering of trees and is much quieter than the main road route of the west side. Chaise Dieu monastery can be seen from about ¾ of the way to the top. Took a right at an adjoining road then continued on to the top. It took me 2.5 hours to reach the monastery town and back to the car was a ¾ hour descent. From here the drive was through Brioude and Massiac to Murat for my first new claim and climb from the east at Murat. The car left at a wide gravel area off the road before the river bridge on the right before entering Murat. Cycled up through the town heading for Pas de Peyrol BIG 255 1589 metres. Reached the first top at Entremont followed by a left turn heading downhill into a valley (what a wasted effort!) to Dienne village then slightly up to reach Hotel Puy Mary on the right at Lavigerie. From here the road rises steeply for 8km to the top. I couldn’t appreciate the top today as I had to return quickly to reach my accommodation booked at la Bourboule and didn’t want to drive unknown roads in the dark. As it was there was plenty of time and had an hour of daylight remaining when I arrived. I parked in front of the post office but later moved the car to a space in front of the hotel -de la Poste et Europe, 161 Boulevard Georges Clemenceau. The proprietor was confused as I had arrived a day earlier than my pre-booking due to my forced change of programme. It was no problem though and was fixed up with a room for the night and following night’s booking was now cancelled. I had pasta at a pizzeria just up the road then settled down for the night.
Driving 10km south west to Pont de Eaux for start of my first climb of the day but first I needed a coffee and some breakfast at a small cafe at the edge of the town. On the way here I filled up with petrol after the long drive yesterday. I parked just to the north of the town on a quiet street near a fountain on a roundabout. The weather was warm already at 09.30.The turn for the first climb was easy to find as Mont Dore isn’t a large place and it’s wedged between hills to the east and west making it a sort of dismal place together with the dark stone of the buildings in the main street.
BIG 247 Col Croix Saint Robert 1426 metres. The climb starts at the beginning of the D36 road Route de Besse and climbs steeply away from the town for 5km continuing from the west at Mont-Dore. The way up is through woods to begin with but the final 3km in open country and heading for the two hills on either side of the road where the top of the climb is situated. Each kilometre is marked for cyclists with gradient and height markers. From this vantage point I could see Col Croix Morand and a scattering of white buildings near the top in the dip of the ridge to the north. There’s no blue plate to mark the top of the climb, nor any buildings, just a barren top. From the top of Saint Robert it’s 13km to Nectaire but I turned off, after getting water from a pub on the left then off to the left for Murol just after a short climb back up to Sommet de l’Aigle and through St Victor le Riviere I called at the tourist information office in Murol for local information then at 13.00 cycled along Lac Chambon to begin the next climb from the west edge of the lake, BIG 246 Col Croix Morand 1401 metres From the east at Murol at west end of village south of the river on road D996 13km. The climb starts from a road bend to the right that passes over the river then a sharp rise. The way up is mainly through a tree covering until near the top. There’s a welcome restaurant at the top where I sat for awhile enjoying the sun and a beer. From here it’s an easy downhill on an open road back to Mont Dore. (The reverse of this circuit is from the west at Le Mont-Dore from in front of Hotel de Russie on road D996 5km. From le Mont-Dore east over BIG 247 and west over BIG 246 circuit return to Mont-Dore).Col de la Croix-Morand (also known as Col de Dyane) (el. 1401 m.) is a high mountain pass of the Massif Centralin France, in the department of Puy de Dôme, near Clermont-Ferrand. It inspired a song by Jean-Louis Murat.
Starting from the junction of D 983 and D 996 (west) (near Mont-Dore), the Col de la Croix Morand is 4.5 km long. Over this distance, the climb is 207 m. (an average of 4.6%). The steepest section is 6.6%.
Starting from Lac Chambon (east), the climb is 10.5 km long. Over this distance, the climb is 511 m. (an average of 4.9%). The steepest section is 8.2%. Overnight at le Mont-Dore
BIG 245 Col de Guéry 1264 metres 15km Road D216 south from D89/D942 junction at Les Quatre Routes north of Orcival. Returning to the car I drove north from Mont Dore over Col de Guery. There’s no real steepness from the south side and can see why the BIG doesn’t include this side as a challenge. I drove on over and took a left a kilometre further heading for Orcival and St Bonnet where I parked up for the climb back at 17.00. in Orcival I bought a sandwich made up for me and returned back to the shop at 19.30 for a beer. The way up the climb is in open country, a little steep just south of Orcival and again near to the road junction as I entered into woods. I could see the main road coming in from Clermont Ferrand that was higher. Once at the top there’s a great view looking down a valley framed by two long curved drops from hills on either side of the valley. This is called la Banne d’Ordanche. There’s a cafe up here but closed when I arrived. After taking in the view it was back down to Orcival, a beer then back to the car. On the way down I saw scrawled on the road the words ‘Allez Dominique’ so took a photo of the unknown racer’s name that i would later send to the Dominique that I know. Tonight I would sleep in the car at Col de Ceysatt and climb the elusive Puy de Dome in the morning. I didn’t find anywhere to eat this evening so was glad of the sandwich and some food I brought with me from home. Now I drove directly into Clermont Ferrand and found the foot of the climb for Puy de Dome that I would come back to in the early hours of the following morning
Puy de Dome BIG 244 1415 metres Now at last for that elusive climb! sleeping in the car park at Col de Ceysatt – or sortf sleeping as my imagination was running wild at Alsatian dogs barking and snapping at my heels as I slowly made my way up the mountain on the road by the side of the rail track and also being followed by a low flying helicopter with a person on a megaphone warning me to go back – not into the mouths of Alsatians – no way. I don’t remember eventually nodding off but at 04.30 I was raring to go and bundled the bike out of the car boot in total darkness. No Alsatians around in my half stupor. I assembled the front wheel and cyclo, put my lights on and donned a jacket and gloves and made my way down the road from Col de Ceysatt heading for Clermont Ferrand. Any breakfast would come later. Right now I was totally alone on a very quiet and very dark road back down to la Font de l’Arbe then a series a roundabouts for a further 8km (5 miles) of silent road down into Clermont Ferrand to the first roundabout on the western edge of the city. From there back up again at the break of dawn. Some bends along the road and past a viewpoint to the left of the road at 05.15 and reached the turn off for Puy de Dome after the final roundabout. Through the car park i reached the narrow road by the services and took a right and followed the train track to the pole barrier and red light. Here was my nightmare of the night but soon became a dream. There were no dogs, no man- just a red light and the barrier was down. There’s a CCTV camera there and avoided it by going behind it to the left of the barrier. I walked a short way off the road so that I wouldn’t be picked up then mounted the bike. From the barrier the road rises fairly steeply immediately. The road surface is good and I ensured I was in my lowest gear. I would take it easy and make my way up slowly. It was cool because although it was now light there was no real strength to the sunlight at this time of the day. In a low gear it was steady progress following the train track. I found out earlier that the first electric rack rail kjtrain up the mountain is at 09.00. As it was only 06.00 I saw no problem in reaching the top and back to the side path for Col de Ceysatt before it would appear. Because of the low gear I was able to cycle to the top without getting off the bike because once off it would be difficult to remount on the steep gradient which is consistent until the road crosses the track near the top. At that point it’s less steep and I could see the mast perched on the top off to my right. Also at this point the sunlight was becoming stronger. I had planned the timing perfectly. Reaching the top at 07.10 at the gate to the mast I took the photos and explored the excavation area around the Temple of Mercury and saw some walkers up there. I asked a girl to take my photo with the mast in the background then took a look around the restaurant area but everything was still closed. A few more photos taken then I started the decent following the track down to the crossing footpath. There’s really no problem walking the bike down this steep wide dusty path back to where my car was in the car park as it’s only about 200 metres and soon I could see the pub restaurant on the top of the col by the side of the road. I passed a few walkers going up then lumbered my bike back into the car at 08.00. The train would be starting to wind its way up the mountain at this time. Soon after I left the car park and drove down into Clermont Ferrand, 10km away from the foot of my next challenge. I stopped at the viewpoint that I noticed on my way up earlier and could see m next objective off to the left, the hill approached from Rue de Blanzet. I had to ask for directions in the area but an old gentleman was very helpful and told me exactly where Rue de Blanzat was and the junction with the dual carriageway D68 at Layrat Lionel. I parked up at the bottom of the road at 09.15 and began cycling Rue de Blanzat. Over traffic lights then up further to a road bend to the right still on Rue de Blanzet to reach BIG 243 Col de Chevalard 549 metres. 2.6km. At the top the blue plate next to the farmstead indicates the col as Col de Bancillon but as it’s the same height this must be the top as Rue de Cheval off to the right is the descent. I took the obligatory photos then retraced my route back down to the car. From here I drove south west passing Puy de Dome over Col de la Morene and past la Bourboule retracing yesterday’s route but this time through Mauriac to Salers where I parked up for my next climb. In Mauriac I found a Spar store open, even though it was Sunday. I bought some yogurts and fruit that would serve as a late breakfast –it was now midday. Drive 131km (82 miles) Clermont Ferrand to Salers for the western approach to BIG 255 Pas de Peyrol 1589 metres 28km. I allowed enough time for my second attempt to enjoy the climb and have some time at the top. Salers seems to be a favourite location for camper vans and caravans. From here it’s a gradual climb up to Col de Neronne with a long sweep ofa valley to the right on the way up from this side. On the ascent there is a resemblance to the northern approach to Bwlch Y Groes in Wales. I stopped at the pub at the top then continued on the gradual wooded descent to the road junction off to the left for le Falgoux valley. From this point the road crosses two bridges then it’s a sharp ascent up for 5km to the top of the pass. It’s steep all the way.with a bend first to the left then a right. The road is plastered with Tour de France names of spectators heroes. Once at the top I had a look around the tourist information and prices at the restaurant – didn’t bother. At those prices I’ll just admire the prices. Puy Mary is an interesting sight at the top and noticed there’s a well worn path to the top from the road. I took a photo of the height marker and got somebody to take my photo then I retreated back down the mountain, taking some photos along the way. I didn’t have any accommodation booked for tonight but decided I would try to find somewhere. From Salers I headed back west to the main road then south through Aurillac and found the road D17 that would lead back to Pas de Peyrol but I didn’t want to go that far. My next objective was Col de Legal tomorrow so searched for accommodation near the start of the road up. I came across a place to the left where there were hotel indications from a couple of kilometres back. The place called Hotel du Lac Des Graves in Lascelles was easily found, 55km (35 miles). It’s a horse riding and fishing centre. It was a bit expensive but that evening I enjoyed a really good evening meal, washed and dried some clothes and enjoyed a relaxing evening by the lake watching the sunset and listening to the crickets. A really good night’s sleep.
Cycling from Lascelles to BIG 256 Col de Legal 1231 metres. 12.5km from Lascelle was an interesting experience. The climb at 09.30 begins with a steep rise away from the valley to Croix de Cheules and blue height marker then along open farm country through Houde with light brown cows mooing to the accompaniment of their cowbells jangling. For the next part I had the company of a pretty French girl to cycle with but I was too slow so she carried on ahead after a few kilometres. There’s another blue height marker and more fields of cows at Col de Bruel then the tree lined road finally to Col de Legal at 10.15. I asked another cyclist to take my photo at the blue plate who arrived shortly after me. I called at the pub at the top of the col, to the right on the approach to the top. I had a beer then returned at 10.45 back down the mountain to the car at 11.45 that I left parked at the hotel ground. From here I drove towards Pas de Peyrol but took a right turn at St Julien. Looking at the Michelin Map this road looked interesting enough to explore on the bike due to its proximity to the high ground to the north. There are great views along here. I parked halfway up the height as I really needed to reach the Le Puy area to the east and climb a further BIG before the end of the day. I cycled 4km of Col du Perthus then returned back down to the car. On to St Jacques then the fast road through Murat again – passing the bridge where I parked on Friday. It’s a long but fast drive from Murat, to St Flour but then made the mistake of taking the old road to Langeac as my old Michelin map doesn’t show the new road to the south of the old road. At Langeac I was able to rejoin the faster road to Le Puy. The first sight of this place showed the amazing structure of a huge rock in the centre with a white statue of the Madonna aloft, overlooking the whole town. I passed through without stopping and soon found the road for le Monastier that was clearly indicated in the town. The drive from Lascelles to le Monastier Gazeille via Murat, St Flour, Langeac, Le Puy en Velay is 143km (89 miles).
Once I arrived in Monastiers and driving through I found the junction of roads just south of the town at la Rouselle and parked up at 16.30. Cycling on I soon passed to the left of the Gazeille river bridge and began the gradual ascent through the halfway point at la Vacheresse village to les Estables, I called at the tourist information office for local information and directions to Croix de Boutieres BIG 260 1501 metres and nearby Croix de Pecceta. The way to it is past the tourist office then take a right and right again at the top of the road at the edge of the village. The way up is quite exposed however the col itself is in a tree covered area but no trees to obscure the view from the top looking south towards Gerbier de Jonc.Total cycling distance to Croix de Boutieres is15km, arriving at 18.00. The usual photos were taken at the top, and of the blue height marker. There was a buffet van at the top selling crepes, honey and coffee (1€) which went down well after the ride to the top. I made my way down again but took the next turning to the right that led along the length of Mt Mezenz (‘Mozon’) and after 1km a sharp right turn through the woods and up to Croix de Pecceta at 1564 metres – higher than Croix de Boutieres. From here back to les Estables and to the car at 19.45. it didn’t take long to find my accommodation – File Dans la Chambre, 25 Rue Saint-Pierre. The inside is very rustic – bare wood walls, doors and floorboards – but it was pleasant and clean. The girl owner came down the street with me back to the car as I couldn’t drive the wrong way up the one-way street to the accommodation. It involved a circuit of the town and also her help in finding a nearby parking space. This was made more difficult because there were plenty of visitors in the town for a music festival that was happening over the next few days. I found a place to eat later and this was at a cafe at the point where i parked earlier for this afternoon’s cycle climb. As it was now 21.00 there was no chance of a hot meal but I enjoyed local cheese and meat with good bread and a couple of local beers
Breakfast across the road at a patisserie – coffee and croissant and part of my overnight stay charge. Today I decided to cycle a circuit from Monastier Gazeille 31km to BIG 261 Gerbier de Jonc 1551 metres return over BIG 260 Croix de Boutieres 14km and Monastier Gazeille 15km to car. I left the car in the town. From Monastier I passed over the Gazeille river bridge and met up with a local cyclist to Freycenet. I followed the D122 road through le Beage where I stopped for a while to buy bananas and ice-cold water – really needed as it was a very warm day. Just before reaching la Beage the road takes a dive down into a deep valley then steeply up again to the village. From here across open moorland to Saint Eulalie, crossing the first bridge from the source of the Loire then a steep 4km to Gerbier de Jonc. I took a short walk off the road to go and see the source of the Loire in a wooded area. There’s a restaurant here but I didn’t succumb – nor to the line of artisan stalls lining the road. I took the road for les Estables, all downhill then decided on a 7km detour off to the right then two left turns to reach Croix de Boutieres from the south. It was easily manageable, not steep. From here down to les Estables and a fast ride back to Monastier after a five and half hour ride, 09.30 to 15.00. Back to the car and a quick exit as I would like to reach the next climb further to the east and climb it in the evening. I drove the top road from Monastier to Fay sur Lignon then took a minor road directly east to emerge at St Martin de Valamas then drove to St Laurent du Pape in 100km (62 miles) to climb BIG 262 Col de Serre Mure 765 metres from the south. First I parked at Duniere but as there were not many daylight hours remaining I thought that to approach the climb from this side would take too long. I found a parking place in St Laurent just to the right of the road 200 metres on to the climb. There was nowhere to leave it on the main road. I unloaded the bike and back down the hill and started from the main road up. It took me 1.1/2 hours to reach the top from 17.30 to 19.00 then half an hour back down to the car. There are some steep sections of 7 to 9% on a very good road surface. There’s no building at the top, only the blue height marker to take a photo of. Back to the car I drove west again along the main road and found a large car park to the right at St Fortunat sur Eyrieux where I could sleep quietly tonight in the car away from the road. Also nearby I hit jackpot as there was a pizzeria. I ordered a pizza and a beer (12€) however it was a long time coming. Eventually with stomach satisfied I could go to sleep. I slept 22.30 to 07.00 but many dreams, perhaps I was a bit uncomfortable in the car even though I had reclined the passenger seat.
Wednesday 8th August 2018
Today should be like a rest day as I’m only climbing one col. Driving 95km (60 miles) St Fortunat to Valgorge via Privas, Aubenas and Largentiere to:
BIG 259 Col de Meyrand 1371 metres, Cycle 16km and over side to Les Chambons 5km and return over to Valgorge and the car. 42km total
The approach to Privas was interesting, seeing the town buildings laid out below from the descent. I stopped for a while at Aubanas on the Montelimar road and had breakfast at MacDonalds at 10.30. From here on to Uzer and I was in a rainstorm but It didn’t last for long though. The air was much fresher now for my next climb. I took the road for Largentiere, parked up at a car park and had a look around the cobbled streets of the small walled town, approaching it by a bridge over the moat to the town gate, there’s a shop near the car park and bought some food and drink. A few kilometres Further I parked the car to the left of the road just before the road and river bridge to the left for Beaume Gorge. Here is the foot of the climb at 342 metres, not near the approach to Valgorge – besides there are kilometre markers for cyclists heading foe Col de Meyrand and these begin to appear shortly after the road to the gorge. The start of the climb is also very scenic with the white rocks alongside the river. Passing through Valgorge itself there’s a noticeable change as the road becomes steeper. I started the climb at 13.15 and reached the top at 16.20. with ten minutes at the top it then took 30 minutes to reach the foot. It’s an uneven road surface on the upper section so coming back down at speed was a bit tricky. There’s no cafe at the top - I could have done with one. There wasn’t even a buffet van; a very lonely top. The only object to photo is the blue height marker. It was a very warm day. In the evening I stayed in Uzer at La Chataigneraie on the main road. First of all I made the mistake of going uphill off the main road into the higher part of Uzer. I had a pasta in the evening sitting outside at the front of the hotel in blazing hot sunshine accompanied by petrol fumes as too many cars sped by.
It rained hard through the night and continued all morning – in fact it became worse. The rain was torrential accompanied by thunder and lightning. It was fortunate that I had a long drive ahead of me and wouldn’t be cycling until later. The drive was 126km (79 miles) along the main road heading south from Uzer and Joyeuse to Lablachere then off to the right for the quiet roads through Les Vans to Villefort where the rain eased then St Andre and le Chambon on forest roads to Genolhac where the weather was much better but overcast, I parked up at the Super U supermarket and changed into my cycling gear then started off heading for the afternoon’s climb. I took rainwear with me, no sense in risking it and also the weather was much cooler today. I took a photo at the foot then began the climb. It’s very steep to begin with but easier after a kilometre as I headed for BIG 258 Pre de la Dame 1450 metres, 15km away. I had an idea to cycle a circuit and continue over the top 16km down to Villefort then return 18km to Genolhac and the car but looking at my map the road surface from the top at the higher part going down may not be a good surface for a road bike so would satisfy my conquest urge with the climb up then back the same way. There are plenty of hairpins in this road.but this makes for a less steep gradient. The way is up through trees much of the way. It’s a well gritted road from halfway up to the top there are no road markings. The road summit is barren except for the usual height marker. The climb took me two hours from 13.00 to 15.00 then one hour down; returning to the car at 16.00. Although I had no rain on the way up or down I could hear thunder in the distance most of the way up as I was cycling. It was quite cold on the way down so was glad of my rainwear. I bundled thebike back into the Punto and drive 30km (19 miles) to le Pont de Montvert to the west following valley and river scenery. In the village I parked near to Aux Sources du Tarn Hotel to climb the Col de Finiels, BIG 257 1541 metres cycling 11km from the south. I started at 17.00. the weather was dry but very overcast; much like the usual weather back home. It wouldn’t be just now though as the weather in the UK From late June until I now is approaching 30 degrees in a heatwave. Oh to be in England ! The way up is fairly steep at first on a series of bends leaving the village. A few kilometres along it’s easier and more gradual as far as Finiels village then steeper as the road winds up to the right and past scenery that resembles the tors of Dartmoor. Somewhere here is the source of the Tarn river.The road then winds to the left and enters woods to reach the top. There’s a structure on the left and the usual blue height marker on the right. It was mainly dry on the way up however the weather turned nasty as I turned the bike for the descent. It rained all the way down and i needed jacket, trousers and gloves. Pumping the brakes on the way down made my hands numb. My fingers were white because of restricted blood flow and couldn’t feel my fingers. It took a while back in the car later with the heater on to get myself warm again and a sensation back in my hands. I was planning on sleeping in the car tonight but that was impossible with the rain banging on the car roof. I biked in at the Aux Sources de Tarn (55€) and ate out in the evening when the rain stopped. Along the street from the hotel and overlooking the infant Tarn I enjoyed a pasta at an outside table with a group playing folk music from the restaurant with the music sounding off down the street.
Driving 21km (13 miles) to Florac is along very pleasant gorge scenery of the upper Tarn in glorious weather. After yesterday’s rain today was very different and was very warm again. After taking my time and enjoying the drive down to Florac I found a place just off the main road to park the car. This was a car parking row by the river where I could change and eat. I had breakfast at the hotel but needed more so had a couple of yoghurts and fruit then assembled the bike. I found the tourist information for leaflets on the area then began the ride along the river to start BIG 314 Col des Faisses 1026 metres. I wondered if I was on the correct road to begin with as the road only followed the river, however reaching a quarry to the right the road began to rise. Part way the climb I was joined by a French cyclist who spoke excellent English and who stayed with me to St Laurent de Treves where he turned back. I took a look at the place as, according to a leaflet picked up at the tourist office, there’s an impression of a prehistoric creatures’ footprint in a rock. There’s some public toilets here but beware of the dog ! Continuing on I rode past the turn for Barre and soon after reached the top of the road where there’s a lay-by to the left with information of the area and the Corniche des Cevennes down the other side of the mountain I cycled 12km in 1.5 hours up from Florac then over the top and down the south east side 40km (25 miles) to St Jean du Gard and return 40km (25 miles) to Florac. Over here is fantastic gorge scenery. I didn’t explore the town but would later when returning with the Punto. Back to the car, bought some sandwiches in the town then drove to St Jean du Gard. A brief look around. I then drove 80km (50 miles) to Brouzet-les-Ales via Anduze and Ales.
I parked the car in Brouzet les Ales at the village green and toilets just south of the start of the westerly climb to BIG 320 Guidon du Bouquet 629 metres. I started the climb at 18.00 and returned back to the car at 19.50. It took me ¾ of an hour to climb with 40 minutes down taking photos on the way. Cycling distance is only 5km (3 miles) but extremely steep. I wasn’t alone on the climb. Many other local cyclists were making their way up the struggle towards the red mast and even they were showing the ferocity of the climb. This may be a short distance but there’s no respite as the road winds up 10 to 12% gradients. On the way the kilometre marker stones show the gradients for each successive kilometre. At the top the cyclists who passed me cheered and clapped me! I asked them to take my photo. I was told that Mont Ventoux could be seen inthe distance and one photo of me was taken with the mighty giant in the background. We chatted a while before the group returned down. There was also a group parasailing from the artificial grass slope. One chap asked me, “Where you from, mate?” I was surprised. He told me he came over from Poynton, Cheshire for the parasailing. Tonight I stayed in Ales 17km (11 miles) away at a pre-booked hotel; L’Escale d’Ales, 5 Andre Matrau. £42 but i had some difficulty finding the hotel. The best plan was to find the railway station and hope there was a taxi rank. I located the railway track and found the station. There was a taxi parked so asked, showing him the address. He gave me a town map and indicated on it the route. Booking in at the hotel I asked if there was a restaurant nearby because at 21.00 the hotel restaurant had closed. There was one across the road, at the other side of the huge roundabout. After a good fill time to sleep.
Saturday 11th August 2018
. This morning I had a break from cycling and drove 64km (40 miles) north east to Vallon-Pont-d’Arc (petrol fill) to drive through the Ardeche Gorges. There wasn’t too much traffic and plenty of places to stop along the way to admire the views of the enormous length and depth of the impressive gorge, over 40km (25 miles) in length. I think the best viewpoint is at Serre de Tourre. I was nearly three hours exploring, an impressive place. Continuing on through Pont St Esprit at 14.00 and Bagnols to Uzes then in order to by-pass Ales I took to the lanes through Dezery and Brignon having to take a detour away from Moussac because of a traffic accident blocking the road. On through Domessargues and Savignargues following the D8 road to Sauve then emerged on the main road and continued on through Ganges to le Vigan having driven 128km (81 miles) from Pont St Esprit. I was ready for some cycling! I booked in a the Logis Hotel in le Vigan on the main road just south of the town and left the car there to cycle Mont Aigoual however because of the remaining daylight hours I could only reach Col du Minier 27 km (17 miles). It was a hot ride 16.00 to 19.00 and drank all water so had to flag down a motorist to beg for water, shaking my bottles in the middle of the road so they had to stop! One did – thank you to an old gentleman who let me fill two bottles from his litre of water. Just before Col de Minier is an interesting rock formation and also most of the way up there’s great views looking back down the valley. I returned back to the hotel. No meal tonight but would have a good breakfast here tomorrow.
BIG 313 Mont Aigoual 1567 metres From le Vigan at 07.30 after breakfast and reached Col du Minier at 1246 metres again at 10.30. It was not so difficult climbing the remainder and only took 90 minutes. From Col du Minier the road goes down 80 metres in one kilometrethen a less steep ascent to l’Esperou. Here are wide car / coach parking areas either side of the road and hotels for winter sports. Another two kilometres rise to Col de la Sereyrede and a right turn by the pub for the rise through the woods to a road junction where Mont Aigoual is indicated as both ways ads there is a road circuit from here to the top. In this section there is also wide parking areas for winter activities. A final turn to the right at a road junction then one kilometre further the end was reached topped with a huge grey looking building – the observatory. I continued around the back of this to the end of the road where there’s a restaurant at the rear of the building. I finished off food from my bag with a large beer bought and sat on the veranda admiring the view. There were plenty of people up here and a few cyclists among them. I didn’t see any Asians up here with clicking cameras. Maybe it’s not on their priority list of ‘must see’ places to visit. It took me 4.5 hours to climb the mountain and only 1.5 hours back down to the car. Once there I loaded the bike back into the boot and drove back up to the mountain to the road junction one kilometre from the summit but this time took the left turn indicated for Florac but continued on the D18 road signposted for Meyruis. At the end of this road I took a left to follow the Jonte valley then branched off to the right leaving the valley at the head of the Jonte Gorge for the road over the barren Sausse Mejean heading for la Malene, total driving from la Vegan to la Malene 72km (45 miles), arriving at 15.30. I wasn’t aware until part way down the steep descent into the Tarn Gorge that I was already on my next climb and would need to cycle back up here. First impressions were that this climb would be scary! It’s a steep descent with fantastic view down into the gorge and stopped a couple of times to take photos of the towering white rocks and the river below. I parked the car at the car park close to the river bridge, pulled out the bike and began to return back up the gorge. BIG 312 Col de Rieisse 942km Down other side to les Vignes 14km (9 miles) and return 12km (8 miles) to la Malene. My idea was to climb the gorge, take the right turn at the top to complete the Col de Reisse then return back to the gorge over the top of the col, down the other side into les Vignes and cycle the gorge back to la Malene. The ascent to the top of the gorge is fantastic! Wonderful scenery all the way up and it wasn’t too difficult with ten hairpins to lessen what could have been a daunting gradient. Once at the top of the gorge and heading across open country I felt that this was a complete contrast to the gorge scenery. The remaining section is only a slight rise into the woods and no view or height marker plate at the top. The only object close to the summit to photograph as an indication of the top is a round stone enclosure with an entry gap on the side – unless a pile of cow dung at the actual top would suffice!. On the outer wall is a painting of a sheep so I guess that this enclosure with its round shape and stone coned roof is used as a sheep enclosure. I noticed a few more of these on the gradual ascent down to les Vignes. The return down though also has a few kilometres of uphill but when the edge of the gorge was reached it’s then a dramatic plunge back down to the Tarn Gorge. On the way are dramatic high and sheer rocks where I had to stop to take it all in, especially looking down the wide sweep of the valley heading south towards le Rozier. I would return this way tomorrow to drive the remaining part of the gorge. Right now i was descending the gorge on a narrow road that led into les Vignes, a sharp left turn on to and over the river bridge into the village. There’s some good food sampling to be had from a roadside stall on the right as I was passing through les Vignes! I bought a beer for 4€ which was a bit steep but it was a local produce. I could also helpo myself to whiskey, strong cheese, meat, biscuits and peach liquir all flowing freely and well supplemented my four euros spent! I wasn’t driving again today. Cycling the circuit in the clockwise direction means a mainly uphill return back to la Malene along the river valley as the river flows the other way. Once back in the village I booked into my pre-arranged accommodation at Azura la Malene (£45) situated directly opposite the river bridge. In the evening I had a wonderful large pasta followed by an ice cream sundae at a restaurant just up the road away from the river then back to the hotel at 22.30
This morning after a good breakfast I drove 26km (16 miles) to Saint Enimie and return to see the other village and the other section of the gorge then returned to . La Malene and drove to les Vignes and parked. I cycled the gorge from les Vignes back to Col de Reisse and returned back down to the car. Scenery always looks different from another direction.From here driving 100km (62 miles) les Vignes to Soubes via Gorges de Tarn and Le Rozier and on to Millau to see the huge span of the cable supported viaduct seen from the best vantage point at Aire du Viaduc near Soulobres to the west of the town. Its really impessive and designed by an English architect, Norman Foster. The largest supporting pillar of the bridge is 27 metres higher than the Eiffel Tower. From the aire I backracked into Millau and took the old N9 road, now the D809 that joins the new road at la Cavalerie. At this point on the open moorland the rocky outcrops to the west of the road resemble Dartmoor tors. Continuing along the road I turned off at la Pezade to visit the old walled town of la Couvertoirade.
A village in the middle of the Causses
As soon as you approach the village set in the heart of the Causse du Larzac you are surprised by the two towers that spring from a rocky chaos.
Come through the old fortified gateway, a meander of streets, small covered passageways and 15th century houses await you. Climb up to the chemin de ronde walkway on the ramparts and you dominate the listed village and admire the exceptionally well preserved surrounding countryside. The village is brought to life by the artisan boutiques and old shops.
I had an interesting hour exploring the village. I had parked on the main road and explored around the walled townusing the bike then later continued on through le Caylar to Soubes and parked up to commence the late afternoon’s climb of BIG 318 Mont Saint – Baudille 847 metres. The climb is gentle at first through tree lined St Etienne-de-Gorges then a tougher section through a wooded area for 7km to reach St Pierre de la Fage. There’s an old dilapidated windmill here to the left of the road. I took a right, through the sleepy village and along to la Vacquerin et St Martin with its narrow streets and deep country atmosphere. From here there’s a short rise then a dip in the road, no real rise in the road in the open country until the turn for Mont St Baudille but at first it was another dip in the road for a short distance but for the final 3km it was a real ascent on the narrow road to the mast at the summit. The distance is 20km (12.5 miles) to the top, cycling from Soubes. It took me from 13.30 to 17.30 and with half an hour there and one return back to the car at 19.00. From Soubes to Bedarieux I drive via Lodeve then west through Lunas and le Bousquet to Bedarieux, a 34km (22 miles) drive. I was almost out of fuel and was glad to find a petrol station to the south of the town. I asked a local where my accommodation was located, showing him my booking address. He said it was out of the town to the north then to take the first left over a pontoon river bridge. My pre-booked accommodation wasn’t booked until tomorrow but I called at the old chateaux on the off-chance there would be a room available this evening. There were people sitting around the table but the owner wasn’t there but one of them asked the owner using my mobile. There was no room available tonight. I drove back into the town and had a late meal of steak, chips and salad with a beer ata noisy cafe on the town’s main square then drove back to the hotel and slept in the car in the grounds of the old chateaux.
I woke up early hving had a surprisingly good sleep in the Punto then drove down into the town and parked up by the roundabout at the main road for Lamalou. At 08.00 I started cycling at first along the main road around the south of the town but it warmed me up! It was the wrong direction. I was heading in error towards Clermont l’Herault so turned back as i noticed that I had passed over a road that seemed to be heading for my first climb. This is the problem of relying on an old map! I cycled down into the town and found the correct road up from the river. This is the D909 and followed this for the few kilometres to the tunnel but then again made the mistake of cycling through the short tunnel and taking the next left on emerging. This wasn’t correct! I was heading east for Pezenes and saw the mast of Pic de Tantajo behind me! I cycled back through the tunnel and found the correct road immediately to the right at the tunnel entrance. I was now on my way up to BIG 317 Pic de Tantajo (518 metres) Cycling 4.2km (3 miles) to the top from Bedareux. The narrow road is partly gravel and was careful to take every right turn (three turns) At the second right turn I was confronted by dogs but their bark was worse than their bite. After a house on the right if calves survive the mauling the road becomes steeper 500 metres before the top is reached. From the to I could recognise the tops of Mont St Baudille, Col de l’Espinouse and in the far distance Mont Saint Clair. I could also see my car parked on its own near the main road. From here back down to the Punto then at 11.30 drove 7km (5 miles) to Le Poujol sur Orb and parked up by the side of the main road on the other side of the village.
BIG 316 Col de l’ Espinouse 1124 metres Starting off at 12.30 from the road junction to the main road, cycling the first part of the climb was difficult until Combes village and also after the village but after 6km, at a road junction the gradient eases. This point is called Col de Princes. After Rosis village the road becomes steeper and a lot more scenic as the trees are left behind. I enjoyed some good views along here across a wide area to the north. I came to some interesting towering rocks then entered a forest area and up to the brow of a hill. There’s a false top here at 1020 metres where the road goes down again 100m from the top then up again to the true top and the familiar blue height marker in the woods. There are painted indications on the road at 1000m from the end and again at 500m, 200m and 100m distance. There are no buildings at the top, just a wonderful view and the blue height marker to photograph. For once my altimeter was reading correctly at 1124 metres and 23km (15 miles) distance. I reached the top at 15.15 – a 2.3/4 hour climb then one down, returning to the car at 16.15. From here I made my way back to Bedaroux and my accommodation. This time I was accepted! I had a real bath to soak in and changed for the evening and returned to Hereplan where I had found a pizzeria earlier. They opened at 19.00 for meals. I arrived at 19.45 and had pasta carbonara and beers then returned to the accommodation.
Wednesday 15th August 2018
After a wonderful breakfast in the chateaux and a chat with the ownerI leave at 09.00 and drive through Lamalou es Bains and west to to Mazamet via Olargues, St Pons-de-Thomieres, Mazamet 92km (58 miles). I arrived at 10.30 and parked the car then cycled the few hundred metres to the hotel ville/ marie / town hall to meet Francois as arranged at 11.00. Above the windows were the words; ’liberty , equality, fraternity. I hoped we would have some of that today! Francois appeared on schedule. We chatted for a while then he needed to search for a shop to buy water. At 11.30 we started the climb of the BIG 315 Pic de Nore 1200 metres together, the route up was a cycling challenge of 17km (10.5 miles) to the top and return down to Mazamet 34km (22 miles). The first section was a 4km ride past some factories to a road junction to the left marked by the boards of the previous local French Tour de France hero, Jalaber. From here each kilometer was marked with a yellow Tour de France board that showed the current height and the gradient for the next kilometre and the distance to the summit. The race passed this way last month. I could almost smell the body sweat! Much of the way was along a tree covered route with occasional views across. It took 2.1/4 hours to reach Pic de Nore and ¾ of an hour down as I was taking photos. We chatted with elderly cyclists at the summit. One commented that some years ago the mast collapsed but was rebuilt. Our timings were 11.30 start, 13.45 at summit. 30 minutes at summit. 14.15 to 15.00 descent. We had lunch together in Mazamet centre the said goodbyes. Francois drove back towards the Atlantic coast to rejoin Yasmine at their spa accommodation. I went back to the car and drove directly south through Cabresping and Villeneuve to Carcassonne 47km (30 miles) then south of the city to east of Leuc where I booked in to my pre=arranged accommodation at Domaine de Fraisse for two nights. This evening i drove into Carcassonne for an hour or so then returned to the accommodation for an evening meal (that cost an arm and a leg!).
Thursday 16th August 2018
A tourist day in Lagrasse, south east of Carcassonne then expoored Carcassonne in the afternoon and evening with a break back at the hotel late afternoon. Returning to Carcassonne mid evening I ate at le Bistro through the Narbonne Gate and then first left and enjoyed a pasta and local beer then back to the accommodation after a wander round the old city.
Drive Carcassonne to Sete via Beziers and Agde 118km (74 miles). I left Fraisse at 10.00 after a lie in and breakfast and took away some fruit and yoghurts for later. I drove the old road to Narbonne and on to Beziers. From that point though I met with traffic problems. The road was congested much of the way from before Vias to Agde. Fortunately most of the traffic was heading for Cap d’Agde and Marseillan Plage then I had a clear run from here to Sete, 14km. Once there I soon found Monte des Pierres Blanches and parked in a space on Avenue de Tennis nearby. I took the road heading up to BIG 319 Mont Saint-Clair 175m from the south west at road Rue d’Aquitaine 2km (1.5 miles) and took photos at the top by the white cross, looking over to Montpellier in the distance and the port of Sete in the immediate foreground. I visited Chapelle de la Sallete up here and gave thanks for a wonderful holiday that worked out perfectly then down the south east side to Le Mole St Louis along Chemin de Saint Clair 1.6km (1 mile) and return 3.6km (2.5 miles). I had some confusion re=locating the parked Punto but the area isn’t too big to lose it. From there and along to Montpellier. Drive 44km (27.5 miles) to Montpellier airport. To be at Montpellier by 19.00. I had no need to drive into the city centre but did. Traffic was choc-o-block. I filled up with petrol for the airport and retreated out of there and headed for the coast at Palavas. Oh what a palava! From thee I drove a short distance along the coast to Carnon Plage and relaxed on the beach for a while after finding a car space. I had plenty of time to make my flight however I deposited the Punto at 17.00 at the airport and loaded the bike after saying goodbye to the car! In the airort departures I took the bike apart and bagged it and checked in and took the bagged bike to the oversized X Ray for check in then relaxed for a trouble free journey home. My only problem was bck in Gatwick as the flight arrived one hour late at 23.15 so there was no chance I could make it to my pre-arranged accommodation two miles from the airport in Horley. I tried but it was impossible to contact them. I called in at the Premier Hotel at Gatwick North Terminal. They tried to help me but also couldn’t raise the guest house or Booking. Com at nearly midnight. I took a room there and will try myself to obtain cancellation when I return home
Thrifty Car Hire location drop off : Montpellier Airport
Mauguio, Montpellier, France, 34137
EasyJet return flight EZY8058 Montpellier departs 22.15 to London Gatwick 17th August 2018
Bag drop opens: 20.15 Arrives Gatwick 23.00 17th August, booking reference: EVCLRSQ
Cabin baggage Max size 56 x 45 x 25cm Hold luggage 1 x 23kg case Sports equipment 1x Bicycle
Last train from Gatwick Airport at 23.35 or 00.42 arriving in Horley 23.37 or 00.45.
Overnight stay at Yew Tree Guest House , 31 Massetts Road, Horley RH16 7DQ
Saturday 18th August 2018
11.09 to Reading 13.12, Reading 13.45 Birmingham 15.18. Birmingham 15.36 Crewe 16.30. Crewe 16.48 Holmes Chapel 17.00