Georgia, August 2017
Sunday 30th July 2017
Perhaps a very different adventure was waiting for me on the eastern extremity of Europe as I took the train down to London then struggled on to the bus with my bike in its black bike-bag the short hop to St Pancras with the usual wisecrack by the bus conductor when I swiped my over 60’s free bus pass – “Oi come orf it Peter Pan, going through second childhood are we?” I thought I could settle back on the train to Gatwick but the train gave up at Blackfriars because of a faulty door so had to wait for the next one, arriving in Gatwick I still had three hours before the flight. I joined the short queue for the Georgian Airways flight to Tbilisi, Georgia, not having to pay any extra for bike or rucksack and that’s a bonus after Ryanair add on charges or the hefty £50 each way addition to take a bicycle on an EasyJet flight – as good as EasyJet is. I’ve had some bargain flights using them. Now I was on the verge of the greatest adventure and the furthest I would ever take my bike, to the extreme eastern section of Europe- not quite Asia or Middle East but within spitting distance of both. It’s a five hour flight from Gatwick to this remote country just below Russia. My flight left at 23.00 on Saturday and was scheduled to arrive at 06.35 on Sunday = losing three hours as Georgia time is three hours in advance of UK time. I queued for a bus number 37 outside the flight arrivals and confronted by a taxi driver who offered to take me to my hotel for 25 lari (Georgian Lari or GEL for short). This worked out at £8 for the 18km journey so thought it a better option especially as I had the awkward weight of a bicycle in a large flight bag to contend with. Accepting his offer he was helpful in pointing out some sights along the way and dropped me off at Metheke Side Hotel at 08.00. I booked in but was told the room wouldn’t be ready until 13.00 so left my bike and rucksack with them while I went to explore Tbilisi and hopefully find somewhere to have breakfast. First off along Metheke Rise then down the steep cobbled street to Europe Square. My first impression of Tbilisi was of old cobbled streets, run down properties and small hotels but soon found out this wasn’t the character epitome of the city. Along to Metheke Church of the Assumption and the statue of the waving horse rider overlooking the river down below. It was a great view from here and I saw for the first time the castle, huge white aluminium statue of ‘Mother of Tbilisi’ overlooking the town on the hill opposite and the TV Mast on a larger hill beyond. I walked down to the river and followed the road bridge to Jerusalem Square then took a right and wandered up the cobbled street Kote Afkhazi and had a coffee latte for one lari – 30p. From there to Freedom or Liberty Square to see a totally different side of the city – busy streets and an open square surrounded by impressive buildings and in the centre of the square a column the height of Nelson’s Monument but this one is topped with gold leaf figures of amounted George slaying the dragon, shining in the sun. I continued on down to the river and crossed the metal and glass structure of Peace Bridge spanning the river and into Rike Park. From there back to Europe Square with its many flagpoles of Georgia and EU flags fluttering in the gentle warm breeze. Walking back up the cobbled Metheke Rise I returned to the hotel at 12.00 and assembled my bike ready for its first venture out of the city tomorrow and my nearest climb. I didn’t use the bike today but kept it locked up in the hotel reception area. I unpacked in the room; took a shower then went out to explore the city again. This time I walked the steep cobbled rise up to Narikala Castle and to the Mother of Tbilisi statue and on along the ridge to the edge of the city then back to the centre. For an evening meal I had pasta in the town by Sioni Cathedral where there’s a pedestrian area nearby lined with restaurants.
Monday 31st July 2017 Tbilisi to Tskhvarichamia
I set off for my first climb this morning and at 08.00 the temperature was already hot. Cycling the right bank of the river northward for a few kilometres I came to a rise away from the river where the road crosses the railway then took a right turn at the top by a filling station to the right then to a left bend that led to a busy dual carriageway so thought the correct was straight on before the turn along a quieter road. This only led to the same busy road so turned back. Stopped to buy coffee from a truck stop in an industrial area and asked the way at another filling station. His instructions led me back to the city – could see the familiar TV mast ahead. I turned back again and this time took a right before reaching the earlier mistake. This led on to a road to the right that led to Gldni. This is the northern area of Tbilisi. There was some confusion here so asked the way again. I was told to take a left at the top of the road, left again then take the first right. I thought it peculiar that the busy dual carriageway before my first left turn just ended at a ‘T’ junction on a minor road. Once on the correct road it wasn’t long before I reached the end of the city and into the country. I came to a road embankment over the valley then a sharp right turn and steep rise and immediately on to a quiet road and into the national park and to Mamkoda. There was confusion because there are very few road signs – none for Mamkoda. Once I reached this road it was a steady rise through the woods along a twisting road to reach Tskhvarichamia BIG 1769. I bought a bottle of Borjomi carbonated water from a shop to the right just over the rise and took the usual photos of the road height then turned back for Tbilisi. On the way down in Gldani I was overcome with the heat. I bought a small bottle of iced coke to cool down and had to rest a while at the shop. Back in Tbilisi I was sick in the town, sitting in a small square behind a cafe. I walked with the bike over Metheki Bridge and met by a man walking towards me with outstretched arms – Axel! It was chance meeting; he recognised my BIG cycle shirt. His wife was with him. We discussed the planned cycling and the hot weather and my suggestion of a hire car, to which he agreed. That evening I ate late (9.00pm) at a restaurant on Metheki Rise, pork kebab and salad.
Tuesday 1st August 2017 Tbilisi to Gamborskiy
Feeling much better today. I really needed the salt and potassium from avocados. I cycled along to the Budget car hire company on Rustaveli Street at 09.00 to see if it was possible to extend the car hire from today until the end of the holiday rather than collect on 7th August. There were others waiting here frustrated that the office wasn’t open. Eventually the staff arrived at 10.10. I made arrangements to collect a car today and deposit back at the airport. A quick lesson was given to me on how to operate the automatic. One of the staff came with me through the busy streets for a half hour then dropped him off and I joined the traffic queues away from Rustaveli Street and down to the river to return to the hotel. The traffic was chaotic – police cordoned off Rustaveli Street to the city centre because U.S. Vice President Pence was visiting Parliament in Rustaveli Street today – really inconsiderate of him, disrupting the city. Back at the hotel and changed for the cycle trip and drove the same route that I cycled yesterday. I passed through Mamkoda and up and over Tskhvarichamia to a long straight road in the valley heading north and took a right turn by a police station for Sakdrioni and signposted for Sioni. The road is along an interesting valley between mountain scenery to reach Sasadilo. I parked up there at a cafe and shop to the right of the road at the foot of the climb to Gamborskiy Pereval BIG 1771 and unloaded the bike. With this vehicle it wasn’t necessary to remove the front wheel. From here it was a two hour climb through great scenery but with no real steep sections. There’s a 10% rise at one point and a steep section of approx 12% close to the top after a gravel section. Most of the road is asphalt but with some pot holes. The final sections of the road are steeper with bends, mainly after Gambori village. Back down to the car and returned through Ujarma to return to Tbilisi from the east. Later I met with Axel and his wife as arranged at 7.30pm. We went to Abano Restaurant near Jerusalem Square and sulphur baths and had typical Georgian food and watched Georgian dancing and listened to far too noisy songs.
Wednesday 2nd August 2017 Tbilisi to Tsalka
The tour begins! We would meet Daniel Briollot later today. We set off at 07.00 from our respective hotels close to one another off Metheki Street and rode the cobbles down to the river at 560 metres then to the stadium to the west of the city that’s the starting point for our first climb to Betania at 1260 metres. Leaving Tbilisi by Maro Makashvila Rise we passed the road off to the right that leads to the TV mast, taking the fork to the left to eventually reach Tskneti. This continues up a few kilometres past the small town on the edge of Tbilisi and enters countryside where the road is well potholed. We asked a passing motorist if this was the road to Betania. The driver confirmed, however one kilometre on we came to a fenced off area spanning the road with a security guard standing before it. We asked him how far the road was blocked and why. There had been a rockfall and the road was being cleared but judging by the state of the road this was a slow process. Before we left we asked him to take some photos of us. We turned tail and went back down to Tbilisi to take the southerly Okrokana road to reach Betania. We reached the right turn where we could go back down heading for Tskneti but of course we couldn’t reach it but did come to the other side of the rockfall and again there was a security guard, two kilometres down from the road junction. Back to the top then we rejoined the car after photos at the top and continued heading west via Orbeti to Manglisi. We drove around looking for a cafe to have some lunch in the village, We found a cafe up the road to the right off the main road then to the left at the top. There were very few tables in there in a large almost bare room. The few tables were covered with plastic tablecloths. Axel remarked that it looked dated and typical of old communist establishments. I had a good sized salad but don’t know how Axel managed to eat the plate of dry dumplings. We had a few bottles of tarragon lemonade to wash it down. Later we drove down the valley the short distance to Algeti and parked the car for our second climb. The road goes up through the woods in hairpins to emerge out of the trees at a straight section where we could cycle in middle gears to a point roughly north of Laila Mountain and south of Bareti Lake. We took photos here at the top at this point marked only by a road sign. It was a parting of the ways here. Axel cycled on, down the pass and continued on to Tsalka. When I returned back down the car I saw a cyclist with the familiar BIG cycle vest on. Surely this must be Daniel or we’re joined by another member cycling alone. He turned the bike round at the bottom and started on his way up again. I had already reached the car and was on my way back up so turned round at the first hairpin to go back to him and turned again at the bottom to reach him a little further along his climb then parked in front of him and got out of the car to stop him. He was as surprised as I was as Daniel wasn’t expecting me to have a car. Originally the plan for Axel and I was to cycle the whole tour. I gave Daniel the address of the hotel where to meet; Hotel Anri to the left from a water fountain on entry into Tsalka. Daniel’s hire car was parked at the road sign at the top of the climb. We had only missed him being there by about half an hour. I drove on to Tsalka where Axel was waiting at the fountain by the road junction. I shared the news of meeting Daniel on the road. We booked into the simple small hotel. It was very basic but then so was the price. It was only 20 lari each with no breakfast. The owner made up our beds and gave us the keys. We walked along to the bar down the road and sat outside. Seats were occupied but locals offered us their seats – probably taking some interest in their foreign visitors. Daniel arrived an hour later – the owner of our hotel brought him along down the street. We had a meal together at the small restaurant then chatted for a while before taking an early night. I was happy to read for a while and went to sleep early.
Thursday 3rd August 2017 Tsalka to Akhalkalaki
We drive from Tsalka to Aiazmi and leave the cars just off the road to the right on a spur road, unload then cycle through Nardevani then north on a newly constructed smooth road then off to the left to Berta and along a rough track to Burnasheti. From this point the track is mainly gravel and in many places we were riding along grassy tracks, crossing a ford by stepping stones at one point. When we passed a collapsed stone hut the way forward was mainly on grass as we traversed the slope of a hill before reaching a wider gravel track coming in from the right. There was some traffic here so we presumed this would join up further to the north on the smooth road we had left near Berta. Along here the wide gravel track becomes ash as we approached the two extinct volcanoes ahead either side of the track but both some distance from it. The track eventually reaches Tabatskuri Lake. We didn’t catch sight of this but we had now reached the highest point of the track between the two high points of Javkvetili and Shavnabada. In the absence of any road boards and also no indication on our maps we decided to name the climb Burnasheti, being the nearest village. This would be BIG 872 Burnasheti. Daniel and I perched the bikes against each other and took photos. Axel meanwhile had been troubled by dogs attacking but their bark was much worse than their bite. I did wonder though if it was advisable to wield the long camera support stick at them that he was carrying. Perhaps it made the dogs more aggressive but that’s only my opinion. It was unfortunate for Axel as previous to this he received a puncture, slow at first so had to stop every few kilometres to inflate. Eventually he had to bite the bullet and replace the tube. Coupled with this he was also having problems tightening the saddle as the ratchet to the seat tube was faulty. It’s a risk sometimes when hiring a bike not to have a totally serviceable machine. The track over the top of the pass is marked on the map as road 169 coming from the north east. We returned back to the cars on the same route. Later we called in at a garage shop at Aiazmi and bought cake, fruit juice etc – anything we could find. Shortly afterwards we all drove to the top of Tukmatashi to the south. We parked at the top just past a railway tunnel on a turn in to the right of the road. Axel would cycle on through Ninotsminda to Akhalkalaki to our overnight stop there. I unloaded the bike from the car and freewheeled back down Tukmatashi 17.15 to 17.40 to cycle back up, 17.40 to 19.10. Unknown to me Daniel followed me down to Aiazmi soon after and together we cycled back to the top. With gradients of 10% maximum, 2 at 9% and 2 at 7% it wasn’t a difficult climb and also we had the wind in our favour. The entire ascent is in open country. It seemed a little strange seeing the railway line snaking up as we approached the top of the climb. The road becomes less steep nearer the top. At the top the railway enters a tunnel and our cars were parked opposite. About 100 metres further the road reaches its highest point. The railway track comes to an end in Akhalkalaki and noticed a hoarding on the approach to the town detailing the construction of a modernised rail terminal. Driving down the pass towards Ninotsminda (St Nino) there were plenty of delays at 17.00 to 18.00 where shepherds were herding their sheep, goats and cattle out from their fields and out along the roads. Coupled with the delays there were a few strong hailstorms. Unfortunately Axel was caught up in negotiating the animals and contending with the storms without any weather protection. He arrived at the hotel shortly after Daniel and me and was drenched. He had told me earlier how to find the hotel. I was drive into the town and look for a bend to the right then immediately a bend to the left then take the second road off this to the left. It wasn’t too difficult to find. Before reaching the bends the road passes through industry then changes to the housing area, cafes and shops. Daniel phoned me slightly concerned as we had no advance booking at Hotel Art-Seg however we found out later that Axel’s wife had made an email booking that wasn’t included in the advance bookings. Soon afterwards Axel appeared much dishevelled from his ride in the bad weather. He promptly sorted out the problem. We found out we had plush single rooms each – and very nice too! We even had external balconies. The rooms were first class but at rock bottom prices. After freshening up we all wandered outside to search for a restaurant. It appears we were too late at 21.00 and everywhere was closed, however we found a pub that serves meals very close to our hotel. We had wandered around and back to our starting point! We had excellent meals of goulash soup, salad, chips in a private room off the main part of the pub. We celebrated with beers and Pernods to celebrate our journey so far. We slept well that night.
Friday 4th August 2017 Akhalkalaki to Vardzia
We had a good breakfast at the hotel but they were a bit stingy with the coffee. We had to ask for more powder to make it with the hot water flask they left us. We were away from the hotel at 09.00 and drove directly north to Ghado, stopping at a large supermarket (Tesco!) for more breakfast and some food for later. Just north of the town we took a right fork where the road begins to rise away from the town to reach Aragva where the road becomes a stony surface so we had to drive slowly. We parked the car in the village soon followed by Daniel. We assembled the bikes and headed north for Tskhratsko BIG 872. The way is stony but manageable, most of it is a gravel surface so the road bike was no problem but had to be careful. The upper section is easier as there are some hairpins. The end was in sight from 4km away where I could see a building ruin on the ridge. Next to this were the familiar blue and orange plastic tents of the shepherds who live out here. For an indicated yellow road on the map the way was pretty rough. We stopped many times on the way up and even though it wasn’t steep it was still a challenge on the stony track surface. We stopped at the top to admire the view and took in the massive drop of the road on the north side that plunges into the deep valley with hairpins. The climb took us3 hours from 11.00 to 14.00. We sat for a while and enjoyed the sun. We attempted to converse with the police at the metal hut checkpoint up here at the junction of tracks. They were friendly enough however when we all attempted to continue on for Tabatskuri Lake they instead on seeing our passports before we could go further. Unfortunately Daniel had left his in the car and was made to return back down the mountain the way we came. Axel and I had ours and were allowed to continue. The view from the top before the disastrous incident was shared with great enthusiasm and sunbathing as we relaxed in the grass looking up at the deep blue sky and then across to the valley and the road snaking down several hundred metres. From our distance it seemed to be a better surface road on the north side as there was traffic, unlike the south side. This was coming from and to Bakuriani. The parting of the ways; Axel and I continued on, heading down into the valley and eventually to Tabatskuri Lake. Daniel retraced his route back to his car never to forget to bring his passport on future occasions. We had to contend with pesky dogs on the way down. Maybe they’ve not seen cyclists before but they were really mad and chased the wheels. Axel lashed out with his extending camera support stand which made the situation worse in my opinion. He placed his bike between himself and the mutts. I tried a different tactic; dismounted and stared them out. After some barking they walked away. There’s a long sweep around the long valley then eventually reached a point above the lake and Tabatskuri. A local farmer on horse and cart encouraged us to go down to the village when the rain started. Steeply down on a grass track then a steep narrow track to the right leading directly into the village. It was like going back in time – so many horses and carts along the gravel roads in the village. We took shelter at the village shop and chatted with the locals. We bought chocolate and ice cold tarragon lemonade, sat on a bench outside the shop and waited for the rain to go off. We took the short uphill away from the lake. After the lake there’s a steep section then the gravel gives way to a stony track. Some of this is larger stones making it difficult for me to negotiate with a road bike. I was a lot slower than Axel on this surface but I survived! We had some difficulty after Chikharula trying to find a road off the right (east) to return back to the car. We were directed to the next right turn after Alatumani but these aren’t roads – just tracks. An added problem is that there is no signage. We risked the next right turn we saw and we were now on a fairly good surface fine gravel track. This led directly to Ghado and the car, 4km away. We ran out of dry weather along here, the black sky warned of an imminent storm. The heavens opened and we were drenched; Axel more so as he had no rainwear, he arrived at the car first and crouched at the side of it to avoid the worst of the downpour. As soon as I got there I opened the car and we bundled our bikes in quickly. Daniel had already arrived earlier and had missed the rain. If we had been ten minutes quicker we would have done also. The descent from the top took us 3 hours, from 15.00 to 18.00. We made our way back to Akhalkalaki, dry weather now and dried off in the castle restaurant. After a meal there we drove on to Vardzia through glorious gorge scenery reminiscent of Cheddar Gorge but much longer and higher. We took an acute left turn at Khertvisi, overshadowed by its huge fortress and continue on for Vardzia along a deep valley road. We pass the cave dwellings that are off to the right. Axel pointed out the road off to the left that snakes abruptly up the side of a mountain. This would be our climb the following morning. Following the caves the road to Vardzia is pot-holed so had to be careful driving. This made it easy to find our accommodation, Valodias Cottage self- accommodation, off to the left between the road and the river. We had a flash storm as soon as we arrived. Daniel arrived a little later. We were only a short distance from the Turkish border however the road peters out before the border. The accommodation is in terraced chalets on two floors and a separate eating area the other side of an ornamental garden. We had a set meal of trout and salad. Accommodation cost was 40 lari including evening meal and breakfast. Again there was no booking reservation but an email had been sent by Axel’s wife. Axel and I shared a room and I was accused of snoring!
Saturday 5th August 2017 Vardzia to Akhaltsikhe
Breakfast was outside in the covered area. I was out and about at 06.00 and had 3cups of coffee from the self-catering area. They didn’t mind. Later we had breakfast together. As we were eating the wasps were eating us. They were after the honey. Later we took the cars 3km back to the road junction and river bridge at the foot of our next climb and the cave town. We set off for our climb to Apnia BIG 871 at 09.30. For the first 3 kilometres there is a fine tarmac surface road but following that it’s a stone and gravel road for 8km to the top of the climb. The way up isn’t excessively steep and much of it is gravel and small stones so it was possible to cycle with road bike. We were joined by a horse rider who kept pace with us part of the way. In the final few kilometres before the top was reached we could see Apnia perched on the mountain ridge. Once at the top we took a right turn to the chapel that marks the top. We made our group photos here. We were also joined by locals who took an interest in our bikes as well as us. They enjoyed cycling Axel’s hired bike. I’m so glad it wasn’t mine. We took in the views from the top and could see the cave town along the mountain on the other side of the valley, lower down than our position. I had to descend the mountain slowly by which time Axel and Daniel had already enjoyed beers. When I arrived we put the bikes back into the car then went to a nearby restaurant to eat and enjoy some local pump beer served from outside. Later we drive to Khertvisi at the head of the valley and take photos of the fortress. From there we drive on to Aspindza and stop at the side of the road nearby the monument in the centre. There was an event about to happen. Police were directing traffic, stopping further traffic from passing through. We were fortunate as we quickly found a parking space, however Daniel decided to drive on. Soon a crowd gathered around the monument then dignitaries arrived followed by a singing group. Rousing songs were sung and national flags were waved. We took photos and enjoyed the event but deciding this may go on for some time we decided to drive on as were past the cordoned off area and could continue. Soon after we arrived in Akhaltsikhe, took a left off the main road then first right and booked into our pre-arranged rooms booked by Axel on his visit here a week before. The cost was 60 lari per night or 80 lari for a larger room. I opted for the cheaper room as only here one night. Daniel would stay two nights. Axel and Daniel wanted to rest an hour until 16.30 however Daniel sensed a storm was brewing and wondered whether it would be better to cycle to Sapada Monastery now rather than wait until later. We agreed and set off from the hotel, back to the main road where we came in then took a right turn (south) and an immediate steep 9% rise away from the town. The first 4km is tough going and relentless. A turn off to the left then the road veers to the right to reach a high point then steeply down to a wooded valley, veering left then the final 3km downhill to Sapada Monastery BIG 870. I walked the bike inside the grounds to the monastery and took a look inside. The priest in there allowed me inside, even with shorts as I was a cyclist (perhaps he’s one too!). Decently dressed anyway- me that is, not the priest! I was told to make it a quick visit, don’t want to upset the locals. Equally Axel and Daniel were told the same when they arrived. The painting of Christ on the underside of the high dome was awe inspiring. A girl who spoke very good English told us of a well at a wall on the rear side of the monastery where we could fill our cycle bottles. We had a group photo taken by the girl then we returned back to the town the same way, many photos on the return. We ate at the castle restaurant later.
Sunday 6th August 2017 Akhaltsikhe to Tbilisi
This morning after breakfast from a supermarket (I had yoghurt drink, fruit juice but also a dry bun that I chucked) we drive 24km to the end of the road at Abastamani for the continuation by track to Zekari Pass BIG 867, another stony track. The first kilometre follows the stream on the left so is easy going on fine gravel. After a kilometre the track leaves the river at a building on the left and climbs behind it, left and upwards. The way becomes a little rougher in places. There are many twists in the track as it negotiates the upward way through the forest. Axel was already ahead and later Daniel caught up with me shortly before we emerged from the forest into the barren higher ground. Eventually we cleared the trees and we could see Axel ahead and caught up with him. We traversed a muddy section at a bend where even a SUV was having a problem steering over. There are great views from this area over the surrounding countryside. Above us we could see a village on the ridge with the Georgia flag flying. We continued on approx 3km further to the 28km marker at the village and immediately greeted by farmers in the village who were sitting on an old bench at the top. We asked if there was a cafe to which they laughed. No problem! We sat down to be served by a farmer’s wife who brought out a pan of steaming hot strong coffee followed by cha-cha then coke to dull the effect of the extremely potent vodka. After many photos and our chats to a Ukranian couple- the girl with a large photo lens camera clicking away at us – we left after many handshakes, hugs and back slapping and continued down the way we came with a short rise up to the actual pass where the road continues over and heads north for Baghdati. It’s a spur road – if you can call it a road – that leads to the actual col but this is lower than the wooden mountain village we visited. From here we return the same back down to the cars. We returned to Akhaltsikhe and to the castle restaurant again for a meal at 14.00. It’s really good food here. I had a Caesar salad and a beer. We said goodbye to Daniel back at the cars and I arranged to meet him again next Tuesday to climb two roads (tracks?) North West of Khashuri. Axel and I drove back to Tbilisi via Borjomi, Khashuri and Gori. First stop in Tbilisi was the cycle shop for the return of the hire bike. It took some finding but asking around we arrived eventually. Later we returned to his hotel to book in – same problem – they had no reservation. Check you emails! He got his room. We said our goodbyes then I drove to my next hotel, Hotel Laerton, for the next phase of my Georgia trip. I booked in at the hotel and relaxed at swimming and sauna before taking an evening meal before 22.00 in the hotel restaurant.
Monday 7th August 2017 Tbilisi to Shakhvetila and return to Tbilisi
On my own now and after an excellent breakfast at Hotel Laerton I drive east to Sartichala then head north to Sesadilo and east over the Gamborskiy Ughjelt to Telavi. I filled up with petrol as not much left then headed north-west to Akhmeta. Approaching the town the road bends to the right so ignored the minor road that continues on straight at this point. The beginning of my next climb was the following left turn where I parked up and assembled the bike for the next adventure. I filled my bike bottles with Borjomi water from a local shop here then began the climb along the asphalt but pot-holed road following the river valley. The river off to the right until I reached Friendship Fountain where the road rises for approx 200 metres (length not height) on stony surface. I passed a B&B then downhill to Sabue village and veer to the left and back on an asphalt road again for approx one kilometre where the road crosses the valley by a long bridge over a dried up river bed and climbs again on stony gravel surface. I was hopeful for an asphalt surface again but it wasn’t to be. The whole climb now from the bridge to the top of the climb was stone and gravel making it difficult. Although the climb is indicated as Sabue this village is at the foot of the climb. The actual top is at the municipality boundaries of Akmeta and Tianeti where there are blue plates indicating both municipalities. On the map the top is called Shakhvetila, now BIG 874. I passed Kvetara Castle where the track becomes steeper. I passed through the forest the whole distance to the top. The top itself is also in forest so no views. I was passed in both directions by many Russian cars. I took photos of the blue plates at the top then returned back down to the car the same way. I retraced my drive back to Tbilisi and stopped at Gamborskiy Ughjelt summit cafe for a coffee. Returning to the hotel I went for a swim and sauna then ate in the hotel restaurant.
Tuesday 8th August 2017 Tbilisi to Khashuri and return
Up early at 6.00am to a hotel call to drive to Surami near Khashuri and meet Daniel at 10.00 to climb two BIG’s in the area. I set off at 06.45 after a little breakfast anticipating some traffic problems north of and west of Tbilisi. It was best to depart early to meet at the pre-arranged time at Chumateleti, just north of Surami. Daniel had been kind as to arrange with his daughter to ring me from Chamonix to arrange as she speaks perfect English. The main road wasn’t so busy after all and only took me until 09.00 to reach Khashuri so had time to get some breakfast – sausage and coffee at Surami (as they were the only items I could decipher on the menu) It was busy there but all the customers were Russians. A Russian family told me to move from ‘their’ table – I didn’t argue. They ate with their car door open and engine purring away – very annoying! Shortly after I reached the pre-arranged location and spotted Daniel who had just arrived, so parked up next to his. First we cycled the main road northwest for Rikotis Ughjelt BIG 1772, uphill and very busy with heavy trucks thundering up the road towards the tunnel. After a few kilometres we saw the turn off on to the old road. Very little traffic goes this way now with the convenience of the new tunnel. We were relieved to reach the old road but had to be very careful crossing the main road for the left turn that continues uphill. It was dangerous crossing that road. The old road was so quiet – a complete contrast. Approx three kilometres further along we reached the ram-shackled ruin on the left of what may have been a hotel or restaurant before the new road was built. Just after that we could see the tunnel on our right, a long way down the mountainside. We were both busy taking photos but there’s no landmark at the top. We returned back down the same way but continued on past our parked cars to the lowest point at the river bridge in Surami then back up to the cars. There was no way we could turn around in the road. It really is a game of Russian roulette here. Back to the cars and from that point we struck off to the left (west) for Suramis Ughjelt BIG 1773. This was a complete antithesis to the first climb. This was so quiet! At first the road to Kharagauli is asphalt with pot-holes but soon gives way to a gravel track. A passing motorist told us to take a left turn to avoid a two kilometre gradual rise to the right followed by a bend to the left through the woods. We wish we hadn’t as it wasn’t possible to ride this. This wasn’t because of the 25% incline but the fact that the surface is deep layer of sand. Being impossible to ride we pushed the bikes through the sand and watched the antics of drivers attempting to negotiate the steepness and depth of sand, roaring up with wheels spinning. On reflection it would have been best to take the longer route. On reaching the top there were no markers so we put the bikes together in the centre of the wide track, it was wide enough for traffic to pass. We took the usual photos. I’m sure this would have amused the motorists. We returned back down to the cars the same way but this time took the longer route midway. I had to be careful on the descent as there were plenty of stones and thick sections of sand/gravel. Later Daniel and I had a couple of beers each at the small cafe at the road junction where the cars were parked. The lady in the cafe took an interest in our maps and where we had been and amazed that we were French and English. Later I said goodbye to Daniel. We promised to keep in touch. I drove back to Tbilisi and to Laerton Hotel. Later in the day I had a walk to the hill overlooking the town and to the ‘Mother of Tbilisi’ statue overlooking the town. I had a meal at the hotel this evening; the usual pasta.
For price comparison purposes I made a note of hotel food prices:
Pasta Carbonara 11.40 lari £3.50 Pasta Bolognese 12.50 lari £4.20 Caesar Salad 10.70 lari £3.20 Greek Salad 9.70 lari £3.10 Mushroom Soup with croutons 6.90 lari £2.30 Salami Pizza 14.50 lari £4.70 Most expensive was Grilled Salmon Steak 32.90 lari £11
Wednesday 9th August 2017 Tbilisi Mountain
This morning I walked to the Budget car hire office at the end of Rustaveli Ave to ask if I could hold on to the car until the following day and deliver it to the airport. It would make it easier for me. When I arrived there they said they had been trying to contact me but I hadn’t received any calls on my mobile. I was informed that I should have returned the car on Monday! It was a mix up. The arrangement I had asked for was to take a vehicle earlier but keep my original booking. They had only given me a vehicle for the earlier time booking. I argued the point and would sort this out when I returned home. I went back to the hotel for the car and returned it to the Budget office.
Today I planned to cycle to the radio mast perched on the mountain then around the mountain that overlooks Tbilisi. I cycled to Chichinadze off Rustaveli Ave and headed directly for the radio mast. Along here up the steep cobbled road to St David’s Rise and pushed the bike to Mtatsminda Pantheon and the ‘miraculous’ well then up the steps carrying the bike heading for Mtatsminda Park. Part way up is the half way entrance/exit point for the funicular and the passing loop section. I needed a rest here after a few hundred steps carrying the bike but then there was a lot more to come. I continued on up more hundreds of steps to the top. It was helpful to have a countdown number on the steps for the last three hundred! That was a great exercise! At the top is a pleasure park where the radio mast is situated. I wanted to reach it so started cycling towards it but a security guard stopped me. I indicated that I would walk with the bike but even that wasn’t allowed.
I pointed to a girl pushing a buggy and to its wheels then to my wheels indicating I would push mine just the same. He let me go on but kept an eye on me. This was the nearest I could reach toward the radio mast. From the pleasure park entrance I went back down the approach road then to the right on the road and came to the road junction recognised as the point where Axel and I had cycled last week on our way to Tskneti last Wednesday. If we had taken the right fork we would have arrived in front of the tower however we had correctly taken the left turn to reach our first climb. I now descended on a long sweep down into the city, amazed at how far down it was. On the way I passed a tall ornamental gateway with the sign ‘Welcome to Tbilisi’. I had a walk around the city later and hit on a good idea. I booked myself on to a tour to Kasbegi for 65 lari - £21.60 and they agreed to carry my bike on the back of the vehicle so I could climb Kobi to Jvari Pass. The climb should take me 2 hours maximum so tomorrow I could cycle my final climb without using the car. Every day after cycling while staying at Hotel Laerton I was swimming at the hotel. I did 40 lengths of the 12 metre length pool followed by 40 minutes in the sauna. Each day I was surprised to find no one else was using these facilities.
Thursday 10th August 2017 Tbilisi to Kasbegi and return
After a good breakfast I made my way down to the organised tour company near Jerusalem Square for the grand tour of Kazbegi region just south of the Russian border. My bike was hoisted up and firmly attached to the rear of the mini bus. The tour began at 09.00 and returned at 21.30. It shouldn’t have taken this long but there was a hold up at Seturni due to an accident on the road inside an avalanche shelter. The delay lasted over an hour as the crashed vehicle had to be towed away but first a towing truck had to journey to the scene. We had stops on the way at Zhinvali Reservoir then Ananuri Castle and monastery, a spring water area flowing over smooth, brown rocks and finally at Kasbegi (or Stepantsminda – St Stephen) where we ordered our meals. I ordered soup. The meal would happen later but first some of us transferred to four wheel drive vehicles for an exhilarating drive over rough terrain up high to Tsminda Sameba Monastery. We were 15km from the Russian border. This was a great experience even though it was hair- raising. Our driver was really skilled and I wanted to tell him so. Not only was he skilled on the very rough track but also in avoiding all of the other drivers passing. The whole experience took two hours for only 15 lari - £5.00. Many of us walked up to the monastery at the top of the mountain. Later we had our meal. There was much to see on the way back but I would forego that and unloaded my bike at the northern foot of the climb at Kobi and cycled to Jvari Pass BIG 873, my final climb of the tour. From Kobi the distance is 10km. It’s a long, steady uphill but not difficult as there are no really steep sections. I was collected at the top, changed and had my photo taken at the top of the road at the blue height marker by the tour organiser. From here we had one final stop at the Friendship Monument for photos then hoped to arrive back in Tbilisi for 20.00 but it wasn’t to be. There was a long queue of lorries before the avalanche shelter at Seturni where we had to wait 1 ½ hours for the road to be cleared because of an accident involving two lorries colliding in the tunnel. Our guide was handing out flowers picked from the roadside to the ladies in our group as a peace offering and apologised for the delay. It wasn’t his fault! Fortunately the police were also on hand and they arranged to clear the road as soon as possible. We made it back to the main road at the head of the valley at Natakhtari just before dark then into Tbilisi along the fast road from Khashuri. The mini bus dropped off at 21.15 and I arrived back at Hotel Laerton at 21.30. I had a late meal of pasta after a swim.
Friday 11th August Tbilisi
I had a lazy day the around the city sightseeing with the bike, mainly in Rike Park and the main sights in the city. I sunbathed in Rike Park and had pasta there, read and caught up with the diary.
Saturday 12th August Tbilisi to Gatwick
I didn’t have to vacate my room until 12.00 noon so after breakfast sat on my balcony and finished the diary to date and read my book. Today was on overcast day, the hills weren’t in clear contrast. I was glad really as it didn’t seem so bad having to go home. I packed up my rucksack at 12.00 noon and booked out. I paid for my meals at the reception and ordered a taxi for the airport for 13.00. The taxi sped to the airport far too quickly – I was there at 13.30. I now had six hours wait for the flight. The rucksack weighed eleven kilograms however the bike weighed 23 kilograms so had to pay for three kilograms excess. At £7 per kilogram £21 excess was 63 lari. My flight was 20 minutes late leaving. From the cockpit the announcement came with the flight information that we were travelling at 850 kilometres an hour at 10,000 metres height. The flight path was over the Black Sea, Romania, Hungary, Austria, Germany, Holland and into the UK near Dover. Arriving in Gatwick at 22.30 it was impossible to travel home tonight so I dragged the bike to the shuttle bus for the £3 fare to the Travelodge at Povey Cross Road, Gatwick and phoned Ruth to let her know I had arrived. Soon after I was asleep.
Sunday 13th August 2017 Homeward bound
A good breakfast where I could help myself. I left the hotel at 08.30 and walked the back way to Gatwick rail station. I wish I’d taken the bus as this was difficult. The final stage was lugging the bike in its bag up steep metal stairs in the airport arrivals area. Once in there I had a few minutes to catch the train. There was no service via Reading and Birmingham on a Sunday however there was a train direct to Victoria then bus across London to Euston. I arrived there to discover that somebody had committed suicide by walking the track at Bletchley so all trains out of Euston were cancelled. I took the bus across to St Pancras and caught a train to Derby and changed there for Crewe. Ruth collected me from the station at 17.00. So glad to be home. Never again – not till next time!